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Yes, I shoot the same style of photos. It's her feet that look layered. But if it's one image and you shot it, then it is.It's not photoshop, just bad flash techniques more like on camera flash (sorry, no offense even if it sounds harsh).
once you stop paying adobe, you can't even open your files it seems!It's not that they lock your file or anything. Once you stop paying, your software will no longer work, just the software not the file. For example, if you work in PS and save your file as TIFF and cancel the subscription, you can use other program to open your TIFF file. So you can convert all your PSD files to TIFF before cancelling. That's why Adobe doesn't have to make any "READER" program. What's the point of making PSD reader when you can view it but cannot edit anything. Then may as well convert them to TIFF, save the trouble. Also TIFF can store layers too.
i suppose it is the focus, i only used the centre point and recomposed, but so many the focus is off, i was in egypt so light wasnt a problem, and i was also trekking in uganda and the landscape shots just lack punch. the colours and contrast just seem a bit wrong. out of 1000 pictures and some extensive sharpening, there arnt that many im happy with!Focus and recompose is a sure way to make your photo miss focus when shooting wide open.
id upload a few shots but frankly im embarresed. i feel a bit cheated out of money spent. im gonna have to rent an expensive l lens and compare, but at the moment, im really disheartened.
I recently got back my 5D3 from CPS after dropping it. Everything was fine until I went to take some macro shots using Live View. Exposure seems way way off. It looks fine on screen, but comes out about 100 times darker than it should. If I take it off Live View and shoot regular, exposure is exactly what I want. Doing this on another 5D3 I don't have this problem.If the setting for exposure stimulation is off, the LV doesn't show the exposure you set. It just display the screen with "correct" exposure for you to focus and compose.
It seems really weird to me this would be happening, and I'll probably just send it back to CPS for checking out, but I wanted to see if anyone else had experienced this and if they resolved it on their own.
Thanks,
-Chris
Hi All,This spot metering is only measured inside the circle you see in your viewfinder. However, the histogram is for the whole image, not just the central spot. So if you take the photo of course you'll see the histogram spike in many places not just in the middle unless your greycard fill the entire frame. The important thing is do get the correct exposure? Don't worry too much about spike in histogram.
I take lots of photos of dogs and I'm trying to get more accurate exposures of black dogs and white dogs and other dogs that tend to confuse me and my 50d's metering.
I thought I'd try to set my exposure using a 18% grey card, thus getting a correct exposure no matter what colour of dog I was photographing.
To do this I bought a grey card which, as I understand it, I hold in the same light as the dog and take a meter reading from the grey card. So far so good.
So I hold the card at arms length and take a meter reading using spot metering. From this reading I expect to see a histogram with a spike in the centre of the histogram and the rest should be blank.
My grey card fills at least 50% of my 50d's frame so a spot meter reading from just 3.8% of the frame should see nothing but my grey card
However this is never the case. My histograms have spikes all over the range, so my camera is getting metering information from much more than just the central 3.8% of the frame.
I thought I could get away with just a small pocket sized grey card but if the metering is not actually the central 3.8% of the frame I will have to get bigger pockets and a much bigger grey card that fills the entire frame and then it won't matter what metering I use.
Does anyone know if canon spot metering is supposed to just take a reading from just the central portion of the frame and nothing else?
Please try this for yourselves, hold anything with a solid colour up at arms length and take a spot meter reading and let me know what result you get.
Thank you. Simon
I'm thinking of picking some up for my 5D Mark II/III. Seems too good to be true:
http://www.amazon.com/Wasabi-Power-Battery-Canon-LP-E6/dp/B0041MY32Y/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
Anyone use these? Are they worth or should I stick to the Canon brand?
I saw the headline "new bigger savings from B&H". The lens I purchased yesterday, the 24-70 f2.8 ii is now $2099 vs $2049 I paid yesterday. How is this better??? My attempt at posting this earlier was blocked.BH Photo guarantee price 30 days after purchase. You just need to contact customer service and they'll refund the different for you.
5 alreadyIt's not "already". It is still beta. It will take a while. Just ignore this news and don't upgrade. I don't see a point of complaining when they're releasing new version. If you think new features doesn't worth the upgrade, nothing is wrong with your current version so keep using it.
Talk about extortion :-/ Surely two years between versions should be ample, this annual cycle of upgrades is already annoying with AutoCAD that I use in my day job... Don't want to be upgrading every year !
Grrrr
Thanks Delish,I didn't read the whole thing but from the photo above it's not accurate way to test or calibrate your lens. Auto focus area is actually bigger than the "square" you see in your viewfinder. So with that setup, there is high contrast area both up and down the ruler that will be inside your camera focus area. Thus, you may think that you lens is off but it may be just "perfect". That is why people use a focus chart that is parallel with the image sensor to avoid this problem.
A few posts back I included the test setup shot but it didn’t display fully on this forum. However, I checked and the original photo is visible if you click on the incomplete forum photo. I shot many samples at ISO 100 and even repeated using WiFi remote release while viewing enlarged on my computer. I tried many AFMA settings and found that I needed +ve adjustment for all three - 300, 300X1.4 and 300X2. I spent a whole day repeating and checking and repeating and ..... I typically get accused of being tooooo fussy.
I ran into some repeatability issues which seemed to imply that the lenses don’t do exactly the same AF all the time so I manually placed the lens at infinity before each test, as suggested.
The test board I made was angled at 45 degrees. I don’t understand what you mean by parallel to the shutter as that would seem to show no test board. I had used a laser level to get the height for the shot and had gone directly perpendicular to my house 47 feet while the board was square to the house wall. The fabric and tape measure on the board provide a fair amount of detail. Of course I may still be missing something (the Canon rep suggested the camera settings and outdoor higher light so I could use ISO 100).
Apologies, for my posts starting to go off topic but hopefully these things may interest and help others who may get into the same situation.
I've included a closer resized test shot that shows the board better. Focus bang on center of Mitutoyo in all my shots.
6D 24-70F4L IS @ 70 F4 1/1000 ISO 100 +2/3 exp one-shot spot metering
Jack
I am wondering if someone can walk me through how they use the Nik suite in their workflow of editing landscape images. I really like Lightroom 4 and feel comfortable using it...would I use the Nik software after all of my adjustments in Lightroom 4? Can I do things with the software that I can't in Lightroom (specifically with the color efex and silver efex programs)?
Thanks!
I've been using my 7D for a couple years, but have been dying to get a full frame for a while. I debated selling the 7D and getting a 5DIII, but decided to keep the 7D and pick up a 6D. I can use them both with my 24-105L and 70-300L lenses. I love the reach and speed of the 7D for birds/sports.Everyone has his/her own standard. So why not judge it for yourself. Shoot a series of photograph from ISO3200 and up. Load everything in your favorite software then see at which ISO you cannot tolerate the noise anymore. It's easy to do and you will not regret later "oh, I should have not listen to xxx." It's a great camera, congratulation and enjoy.
On my 7D I've used auto ISO with a maximum of 800. What would you suggest is a comparable maximum ISO for the 6D?
Thanks.
ok... that helps me making a decision.With Photoshop/Lightroom you can change your camera profile to get the "correct" skin tone. Search Colorcheck passport or Custom DNG profile. I never have any skin tone problem with Canon. Doesn't mean to offense, but from what you are saying I think you should spend more time to learn more about photography than chasing gears. I was in the same situation at you, always hold out for the best. But now, I'm more confident with my techniques and knowledge. I can proudly say throw me any camera I can make good pictures. What's the point of printing big but crappy photo right? There is always something better. If Canon release something "better" within a year, they can release something better than better in the next year, and a year after. Do you want to wait forever? Or do you want to get out and enjoy photographing the world? Just my 2 cents.
one more question about the 5D MK3 and 6D.
one thing im not very happy with is the default skin colors out of my 7D.
they are to redish.
and while im pretty good with photoshop it´s annoying that i have to adjust the skintones.
i have a 300 euro olympus M43 that delivers much better skintones out of camera.
are the skintones better with the 6D and 5D MK3?
what are your experiences?
