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Messages - triggermike

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31
Lighting / Re: Help with lighting setups for portraits...
« on: December 06, 2012, 03:26:05 PM »
Quote
before purchasing gear, might I recommend a little bit of reading material first to better understand what you might want to do

+1 on reading-up on the subject. Mandatory to know the basics. Also, there is so much to learn, experience and share with this venture!

32
Lighting / Re: Help with lighting for portraits...
« on: December 06, 2012, 01:14:31 PM »
My 2-cents worth:

Not sure how serious you want to get with this? I concur with most here that for now consider additional flash(s), stands and speedring/umbrell or softbox kits for use with flashes for outdoor work until you master it. Even if you moved on to lights/battery packs, you would always have times where you would want to use the ultra-portability of the flash setup. This can also be used with success indoors. The speedring/flashstand kits are inexpensive (and even dirtcheap on ebay, etc.)

As for indoors, monolights are your most economical/professional solution. If purchasing a "2-light" kit of any sort, consider getting minimum 300ws monolights if you can afford it (used equipment is an option as well.) The Alien Bees or Photoflex kits are good in this arena. Also, I highly recommend kits which include the travel bag that holds it all. Some of the shortcomings of cheaper kits are: lack of variable power, no cooling fan, plastic handles (which break/strip - especially when tightening to hold up a big cantilevered softbox!) More power is king - you can always dial it back! Be careful - this sort of thing leads to reflectors, grips, boom arms, hair lights, backgrounds for every occassion . . . . . .

33
Forget the joystick - not in a good place while your face is planted to the back of the camera. Assign it to the quickdial adjacent to the shutter. Press the select button with your thumb and spin the dial to the point you want then shoot. I use it all the time for fast paced action.

34
I too have the Manfrotto 233B bracket which neuro shows in his second set of photos. It is reasonably priced and offers many adjustments/orientations. Love the mini-ballhead addition Neuro!
One word of caution with the Manfrotto 233B bracket - it has several points of adjustment and all of them must be securely tightened else the bracket can "droop" in a myriad of directions. The thumbscrews are plastic and sometimes I get a little nervous when I have to torque one down!

35
Lumiquest also makes this thing which broadens the apparent lightsource size - its OK . . .
http://store.lumiquest.com/lumiquest-pocket-bouncer/

As neuro pointed out, it is imperative you get the flash off the camera hotshoe and onto a bracket so the small lightsource is not in line with your lens/subject angle. This eliminates red-eye (which can still occur with these small modifiers) and changes shadow appearance beyond. Several other techniques to bear in mind - (1)choose your position carefully, when you can, so there is a great expanse behind your subject where no shadows can appear in the photo, (2)bouncing is always best, when there are no walls/ceilings sometimes people with white shirts/dresses can serve as the bounce surface! (Done this many times) (3)I frequently skip the bracket and simply hold the flash in my hand tethered to the hotshoe cable and hold up the flash to the right or left without having to flip a bracket or the camera orientation (4)always shoot in manual when using a flash - set exposure for the background (and within flash's synq range - may require an ISO adjustment). Sometimes a half-stop of underexposure works well to seperate subject and background. The ETTL of the flash will automatically set exposure for subject. With camera set for background exposure, you will find you can move about and the background exposure within a given venue will vary little - and slight variations in background exposure value can usually be ignored.
Hope this helps!

36
Third Party Manufacturers / Re: Monopod & Head recommendations
« on: November 12, 2012, 05:55:34 PM »
My suggestion is to get the monopod and skip the head. Watch the photographers at your next pro sporting event (or Google it) and you will not see many with heads on their monopods. The beauty of the monopod is you can simply rock slightly forward or backward to change angle and you lose little or no support - even with large lenses.
Was just in a new Calumet store that opened in Ft. Lauderdale and saw that they sell some store branded carbon fiber monopods which seemed pretty nice (and reasonably priced.)

37
Lenses / Re: "Affordable" telephoto lens for wildlife
« on: November 01, 2012, 10:30:37 AM »
Both handheld, though the owl shot was done while laying on the ground (still plenty of light.)
As one of the previous posters noted, when photographing moving objects, a faster shutter speed is required - thus IS doesn't really play into the process (unless you happen to get a nice, even panning situation like cars or land animal?)
I have not really found times when I couldn't use this lens. For still wildlife, especially when far away (like an eagles nest or something like that) I usually use a tripod anyways with a remote release. I use this lens for watersports as well with great results . . .

38
Lenses / Re: "Affordable" telephoto lens for wildlife
« on: November 01, 2012, 08:46:46 AM »
The title of the thread is "affordable" for wildlife - this limits the choices to likely the 100-400L, 400 5.6L or 70-200 f4L.
I have the 70-200 f4L IS and it is without a doubt one fantastic lens - but it is unacceptable for servo focusing on in-flight birds or other fast moving subjects.
Of the other 2 choices, the 400 f5.6 would be my choice for the application requested because of its light weight, maneuverability and very fast AF/servo. You will rarely, if ever, find yourself having to "back-off" because you're too close to something with a 400mm fixed lens for wildlife - on the contrary, you will still be performing post cropping even on a crop-body camera. I reach for this lens more than 50% of the time for various uses such as birds-in-flight, general wildlife and action such as surfing, kite surfing, etc.
Here's a couple wildlife images taken with the 400mm f5.6L . . .

39
Lenses / Re: Canon EF 24-70 f/4L IS Coming [CR3]
« on: October 30, 2012, 03:22:14 PM »
Hmmm, what does this do to the 24-105L . . .

40
Landscape / Re: Post Your Best Landscapes
« on: October 27, 2012, 10:20:11 PM »
Hurricane Sandy brushed by South Florida and left us with one of the most incredible surfs we have ever seen!!!!! This is the pier at Deerfield Beach, Broward County, Florida . . .

41
Canon General / Re: when/how to start a photography business?
« on: October 12, 2012, 11:29:40 PM »
Time is money.

When setting "reasonable" prices, you need to get a feel for 'how many' will buy and look at the time you spent. Here in USA, when starting out, you probably want to making at least $50/hr.

42
1D X Sample Images / Re: Any Thing shot with a 1Dx
« on: October 01, 2012, 09:13:27 PM »


The Pilot.
Nice portrait - well done!

43
EOS Bodies / Re: Time from Announcement to Release
« on: August 29, 2012, 10:54:28 AM »
Rent a 5d mkiii for your trip.

44
Portrait / Re: Speedlight for perfect night portraits
« on: August 27, 2012, 05:57:25 PM »
+1 on Neil van Niekerk's website and his book - worth every cent.

45
Portrait / Re: Speedlight for perfect night portraits
« on: August 27, 2012, 04:25:23 PM »
Use Manual mode setting on the camera. Meter the ambient (non-subject portion) and set the camera using the aperature you want with the corresponding speed the meter is telling you to set. If the speed is too slow for your liking (REALLY slow - as T Bruce mentioned the flash will freeze your subject), bump up your ISO to get faster speed for the same aperature. I usually like to dial back a half-stop or so on the ambient exposure so the subject will stand out more. Now turn on your flash and use in E-TTL and all will be fine! This is even better indoors at many occasions because you can simply leave your manual settings as they are from scene to scene as the ambient stays relatively consistent. If the scene changes dramatically, just dial a new speed - but small variations in ambient, especially if you slightly underexpose, will not kill the shot.

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