September 20, 2014, 02:04:19 AM

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - awinphoto

Pages: 1 ... 106 107 [108] 109 110 ... 133
1606
Lenses / Re: step up/step down
« on: November 09, 2011, 02:59:22 PM »
I'd recommend step-up before I'd recommend step down, but as long as it doesn't vignette then go for it... That's what they're made for. 

1607
Canon General / Re: Dynamic Range - Digital sensors
« on: November 09, 2011, 09:20:43 AM »
DPR rated the 5d 2 with a DR of 8.6ish with as-is settings but with highlight priority bought you another stop in the highlights. Others said the 5d2, such as art adams, that the same camera has 11+ ev. Fact is there is no real benchmark everyone can accept without running our own tests so arguments such as this is really futile.

1608
Canon General / Re: Dynamic Range - Digital sensors
« on: November 09, 2011, 08:43:20 AM »
For what it's worth, DXo Mark, who rates the sensors rated the 5d mark 2 with a dr rating of 11.9 ev. I know they can be questionable by many photographers but take that for what it's worth.


1609
Canon General / Re: Dynamic Range - Digital sensors
« on: November 08, 2011, 03:26:37 PM »
Question: Can someone please explain why digital sensors have a much narrower dynamic range then film ? This is apparent to anyone shooting outdoors in bright light - the shadows are black and the skies blown out.

Will digic 5 improve this? Is it possible to improve it?
The DR that an expert user can achieve using aggressive eposure or exposure bracketing together with optimal development of raw files is quite different from what the average user gets with AE and jpegs.

For the expert/nerd, the main limiting factor is the camera sensor. Digital sensors are basically linear with an obvious saturation point and a noise-floor. Film is (I believe) very different, with smooth roll-offs in high-lights and in shadows. Using one definition one might claim that film has a lot of DR. Using another definition, one might claim that film does not give an _accurate_ recording of the scene brightness over such a large DR. In the end, it usually our eyes that are the judge, and if you prefer the look of film I can only suggest to keep using that.

I do believe that many comparisions of film vs digital is unfair. I.e. digital is compared to film on films terms. For the expert user, this might not matter as she will choose based on her own knowledge. For novices, this could lead to false conclusions.

-h

While I dont consider myself a nerd, Film had sort of a soft S curve in the DR and gradual decline in the shadows/highlights, but just like digital, It was a tad more forgiving in the highlights in negative film (film was essentially transparent (negative) once processed and the exposure burned the image onto it... If you over expose or underexpose maybe 1 stop, you could always compensate by over/under developing...

People give digital too much credit... Film, you had to expose properly (same as digital), process it (raw conversion to photoshop/lightroom/aperture), and in most situations, print with contrast filter, dodge/burn, manipluate, etc (post-processing in photoshop, lightroom/aperture)... Just to take a image taken from digital and scanning a slide film and measuring ranges, I'm sure they would be quite comparable... but also then you have to take in to account processing and post processing... All that will affect visible DR and needs to be taken into account when comparing oldschool zone prints.  There's a lot of stuff to take into account

1610
EOS Bodies / Re: 5DIII will come
« on: November 08, 2011, 03:16:05 PM »
Sure it will... this time next year =)

1611
Canon General / Re: Dynamic Range - Digital sensors
« on: November 08, 2011, 02:43:39 PM »
From what I remember... BW negative film had natively around 7-8 stops of range, you were able to push/pull the film in processing to get some more range, but maybe a stop or two more... Color Slide ISO 50 film you were looking closer to 11 stops... Paper only had closer to 6-7 depending on what paper you were using, RC or standard.  Zone photography allowed you to make the most out of your film/processing/paper to get the absolute most out of your DR.  Digital, other than maybe HDR, which may or may not be perceptually loved, is the closest photographers have to Zone Photography... 

Whether or not digital has more or less DR is dependent on skills, exposure and processing as well as if this is just going to be viewed on screen or printed, if printed, what printer, inks, paper combinations you are using.  In Film we exposed for the shadows, printed for the highlights... digital, we got to do the reverse, expose for the highlights, print for the shadows (just like you would if shooting slide film, you can boost up shadows, you cannot regain lost highlights).  Most people forget this technique and become somewhat lazy.  I think cameras are starting to get to the detail quality that we expected from film, but you will need to really learn exposure to get the most DR Possible.  It is not just camera dependent, it's so much more. 

1612
I just got an email from Canon saying a new batch of instant rebates for 5d II, 7D, and 60D... (7D and 60D additional rebates with certain lens purchases)... up until thanksgiving...

1613
When I bought my kit from adorama, it was a 5d2 24-105, battery grip, spare battery, case, 8GB UMDA Sandisk CF, remote release, and software bundle for $2990.  When you take out the goodies It would put the 5d2 kit near 2750 give or take (after I bought that it jumped up $300 the next day and $100 more once the rebates ended)... Must have been a typo on the price?  But they honored the price.   

That's a great deal if it was a Canon grip. All those items add up.

The irony was at the time, the kit with JUST camera and lens was $3199 but that same kit plus all those extras was $200 cheaper... It was a no brainer...

1614
When I bought my kit from adorama, it was a 5d2 24-105, battery grip, spare battery, case, 8GB UMDA Sandisk CF, remote release, and software bundle for $2990.  When you take out the goodies It would put the 5d2 kit near 2750 give or take (after I bought that it jumped up $300 the next day and $100 more once the rebates ended)... Must have been a typo on the price?  But they honored the price.   

1615
EOS Bodies / Re: 5DM2 Purchase From Canada (Henrys) to USA
« on: November 07, 2011, 02:09:47 PM »
Brokerage Fees are the fee the shipper will charge you to process the importation of the product.  USPS may not charge you anything.  UPS definitely will charge you brokerage fees for ground shipping but usually not for air shipping.  Note that my experience is based on shipping from the US to Canada.

I haven't shopped at henry's however I've heard great things about them...  When I purchased my 5d M2 a few weeks ago they didn't have them in stock and I got a great deal from adorama on a kit which was lower than the regular asking price non-kit, probably was a mistake on their part but they honored the price... Anyways, regarding the brokerage fee's, I understand in some situations, there may be duty fee's and such to get through customs... As far as UPS charging fee's, I order most my photography stationary from Boss Logo in canada and they ship UPS...  I've never gotten any extra fee's that wasn't built into the shipping fee's...  USPS I haven't had a problem per-se with shipping from canada to USA however I suppose certain companies can elect to COD the import fees/customs fees and not pay it, especially if they offer "free" shipping...  Perhaps this is what that is?  Good luck. 

1616
EOS Bodies / Re: Final shopping list for tomorrow..
« on: November 04, 2011, 05:50:18 PM »
I keep my lowepro bag when I need to carry a lot of gear and cant bring the pelican, but travel and any professional event, my pelican is my go-to case.

How does the Pelican 1510 do for backcountry hiking or walking through an urban setting?  :P

Actually, I have a Peliacan-Storm im2500 (the Storm equivalent of the Pelican 1510, i.e. airline carry-on hard case).  The problem I had with just a hard case for travel is what you do with the case when you get there, i.e. how do you walk around with your gear?  A little inconvenient to drag the hard case around.  My solution was to remove the padded divider system from the Storm case, put the gear in the Lowepro Flipside 400 AW, and put the Lowepro backpack inside the Storm case.  Sturdy, lockable protection for travel (also handy if you're forced to check you bag for whatever reason), plus the convenience of a backpack when I get where I'm going...
he said he uses the pelican for travel and events. i assume for travel he means by flying which totally makes sense to have a pelican and you pack a smaller bag for when you get there for your daily needs.and for event photography nothing wrong with a pelican there again makes total sense to me.

To be honest I dont do much backcountry hiking and shooting, even though I should because of where I live, it's just one of those things where that's not where I make my money, commercial is... If I'm flying, if i'm meeting clients, if I'm away from home, if i'm at a shoot, my pelican is usually with me... If i'm on the go, at an event, if i'm out with the family doing whatever and I need lots of gear for god know what reason, then the lowepro it is... But usually in that event I usually have a feel of what I need and bring only what I know I'm going to need (less is more)... As i said, it's bulky and a pain in the butt in some situations, but in the end of the day I know I could endure some catastrophic event and my gear will be good to go.  When I used to shoot 4x5 large format in the studio, we would have our beefy Bogen tripods in sometimes awkward angles and you need to be behind the glass with a lupe to check focus... we'd use pelican cases as step stools so we could get behind the glass enough to check focus.  I love 'em.  =)

1617
EOS Bodies / Re: Final shopping list for tomorrow..
« on: November 04, 2011, 03:57:38 PM »
I had the Lowepro AW Backpack... it's a great bag however I have found myself using my old trusty  1510 pelican case 99%... it's bulky, it's cumbersome, it's intrusive, however, i can drop it, kick it, use it as a step stool, I can do just about anything and it will survive and keep my gear in tact... Plus if I break it, I can return it and get a replacement.  I keep my lowepro bag when I need to carry a lot of gear and cant bring the pelican, but travel and any professional event, my pelican is my go-to case. 

1618
EOS Bodies / Re: Final shopping list for tomorrow..
« on: November 04, 2011, 12:27:53 PM »
Did this CR3 just totally fall by the wayside? way back in Jan 2009?

Quote
EF 17-40 f/4L II [CR3]

    January 15, 2009
    Canon Lenses
    34 comments

Update
From a usually solid source. I´m told to expect an update to the 17-40 sometime in 2009. The current lens a cash cow for Canon and any replacement is sure to be a hot seller. The main purpose for the upgrade is to improve full frame performance. The replacement will not have IS.

Yep... When the new 17-40 comes out I'll be among the first to put my current 17-40 on craigslist to help fund the new one... until then I'll plug away with my current lens.  It's still a good workhorse of a lens. 

1619
EOS Bodies / Re: Final shopping list for tomorrow..
« on: November 04, 2011, 12:08:40 PM »
That website you posted of the 17-40 vs the 16-35 is of the 16-35 first generation... at that time the 17-40 was vastly superior... the 16-35 II narrowed the gap and in some ways over took the 17-40, but also commanded a higher price range... The 17-40 is no slouch, I use it with my 7D and 5d2, but it is what it is... I dont begrudge you from buying all the equipment, I would if i had all that disposable income... however one bit of advise, really get to know the gear intimately... I was told by another professional photographer that he usually waits 1 year in-between purchases and when he buys new lenses, he puts the new lens on a camera and doesn't take it off for a few months until he's fully familiarized himself with the lens and knows all it's quirks so he knows in the future in this situation, he wants that lens and it will behave in such a way and yada yada yada so he's fully ready in any situation. 

As neuro suggested, a good tripod/monopod would help... at least at first...  Plus they are always good to have in your back pocket and when you dont have them is when you'll need them the most.  Good luck with all your gear!

1620
United States / Re: Telephoto Zoom or Prime?
« on: November 02, 2011, 06:34:17 PM »
As others have really said, are you going from horse show to horse show (different locations) or are you at one location... How far away are you shooting?  Is this constant or varying?  What focal lengths are you finding yourself shooting at when you're at the show... Do you find yourself wanting the 200mm area or is that too close and too tight?  I have heard many praises on the 85mm and 135mm... both superb lenses... and both wider than the 100mm or 200mm.  The 200mm isn't quite as sharp as the other primes and long in the tooth but if you need that length, only you can answer that.  Zooms are very helpful but not anything you should skimp on... It would "in my opinion" be better to save money on getting the cheaper primes and save up later for the 70-200 2.8 IS II.  Just my opinion. 

Pages: 1 ... 106 107 [108] 109 110 ... 133