July 31, 2014, 07:03:21 PM

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Messages - Vossie

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IF "Are you giong for many full day hikes?"= YES, THEN "NO 300 2.8"
ELSE IF "Are you mostly driving/boating?"= YES, THEN "YES 300 2.8"
AND IF "Are you taking small planes for transfers?"= YES, THEN "check weight restrictions first"

Hey Northstar, how do you like your gopro black 3 so far? 
I wanted one (3+) until I heard about the focusing issue and have decided to wait for the new one (assuming there is one).

West...I like mine!  I don't use it a lot but when I do, I find that I get some interesting video and time lapse stuff.

Same here; I do not use it a lot, but when I do, I am generally happy with the results. Especially using it in the water gives some nice pictures that otherwise could not have been taken (within this price range). Battery life is quite poor (especially when using the LCD bacpac or wifi), so I recommend to get a few spare batteries.

Since it's so small, it's never a burden to take a long. I have also used in on a handlebar mount with my kids learning to ride a bicycle. Quite funny to see their facial expressions :)


Don't be afraid to turn your flash up either, as you may need all it's got to overpower the sun. It's good if you can overpower the sun, as the background will look darker and hence the people will pop out of the shot rather than blend into a bright background.

Thanks guys for sharing your experience.. This is a basic good concept to remember.

Do I need color gel for my flash, to balance color with sunlight.

I might need ND filter, to battle sunlight..?

If you shoot a group, you probably need to stop down to get sufficient DoF to have the whole group in focus, so I would not worry about needing ND's. If you use a speedlight, you can use high speed sync allowing you to use shutter speeds above the x-sync speed of your body.

As mentioned by the others, it is best to have the sun somewhere behind the group. You can then overcome the shadows on their bodies and faces by using a flash (prefereblay with diffusor) or reflector(s), or a combination thereof. Reflector(s) will give you more smooth light like whith a softbox, but with large groups, you may need multiple relfectors to get an even illumination on the subjects. When using reflectors an extra hand to hold them in position is helpful. Some extra tripods to position them against may also work. Using "gold" reflectors may give you nice warm photos even mid day.

If you can place your group in the shadow of the tree, you will get an even shadow that is more easy to overcome than a mixture of hard lights and hard shadows on their faces.

I have no experience with on-flah gels, but can imagine that they offer the same potential as "gold" reflectors.

If you shoot in RAW, you can do quite a bit of color correction to balance colors in post.

EOS Bodies / Re: Patent: Canon EF 180mm f/3.5 DO Macro
« on: July 29, 2014, 03:03:49 AM »
(3) DO elements create onion ring bokeh, but that's ok because bokeh is totally unimportant in macro shooting.

Neuro, I probably miss the meaning of the ::) smiley, but for me the aesthetic quality of the out-of-focus areas  make or break a good macro photo.

I have never used a DO lens myself, but have looked at many photos from DO lenses on the net and agree that OOF areas typically look a bit nervous and not very pleasing.

EOS Bodies / Re: One other hoped-for feature on the 7D2
« on: July 29, 2014, 02:48:13 AM »
I miss this feature too and its a reason why I only rarely shoot in M-auto ISO. With the current design of the Canon bodies it will be difficult to implement as you would need a 3rd control dial to quickly change the 3 parameters (Av, T and EC).

Your numerical list has them in descending order of image quality. 

I sold my 200/2.8L II after getting the 70-200/2.8L IS II, and although I have both the 135/2L and the 1.4xIII, I don't use them together.

I have 35L, 50L and 135L, but not sure to get x1.4 for my 135 or 200mm f2.8II .but u like 70-200 better?wanna get new lens for my trip to Bali and Germany

You have a nice set of primes!

I have the 70-200 f2.8 IS II and the 135 f2; The IQ of the 70-200 @ 200 is indeed better quite a bit than the 135 + 1.4x III. Nevertheless, as the 70-200 is much heavier (and a bit more obstrusive in a city environment) than the 135, I regularly take the 135 with me over the 70-200 on a city day trip as a mild tele (135 FoV works well with a 24-70). When I do, I often toss in the 1.4x III in case I need a bit more reach.

When you do not mind the size and weight, the 70-200 will be a great addition to your kit. It also takes the 1.4x much better than the 135. I do not see the 70-200 as a replacement of the 135; in fact both lenses are quite complementary.

Lenses / Re: 3 week trip to Finland & Germany, what lenses to take?
« on: July 27, 2014, 07:13:03 AM »
It really depends on what type of places you are going. If you plan to be in cities only, the 24-105 will cover most of your day shooting with the 50 for dusk shooting and you may even consider leaving the 70-200 home. If you plan to be in nature as well, you will probably enjoy your 70-200 and 100 macro as well.

I agree the 70-200 is a heavy lens when lugging it along the whole day in a city. I am also not always comfortable using it in a city, because it draws some attention. In cities, i therefore often prefer to take the 135L (and a 1.4). I would definately recommend to still bring the 70-200 (and the 100 macro) with you. You can always leave it in the house/car when walking through town, so you do not need to carry it every day the whole day. For this reason I am very happy with my LowePro S&F lens cases; your bags scale with what you like to bring along on a particular occasion.

Lenses / Re: Help me to decide: 35 vs 50mm
« on: July 27, 2014, 06:57:44 AM »
28 = 36 on APS-H
35 = 45 on APS-H

Both are versatile focal lengths; it really depends on your personal taste what fists best for you.

Looking at TDP, the ZE 35 f2 is considerably sharper and has more contrast than the ZE 28 f2; The ZE 35 f2 is also slightly sharper than the ZE 35 f1.4. The ZE 35 f2 is about as sharp as the EF 35 f 2 IS which is about half the price. Of course sharpness is only 1 parameter. You wrote you were looking for a MF lens, but (although the focus right will probably not be as smooth as for the Zeiss), the Ef 35 f/2 can ofcourse also be used in MF mode  ;)

Diglloyd has an extensive guide on Zeiss lenses tha may be of interest to you: http://zeissguide.com/ (subscription required); he also has 2 minireviews for both lenses: http://diglloyd.com/articles/ZeissZ/ZeissZ-28f2.html / http://diglloyd.com/articles/ZeissZ/ZeissZ-35f2.html

You might be able to make a deal with Sanj who is considering to sell his 35 1.4  ;) http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=21963.msg418271;topicseen#new

Photography Technique / Re: Getting photos home from overseas
« on: July 26, 2014, 03:15:34 PM »
To get a thorny issue out of the way first, where I travel and for how long is my business.

Wow that was friendly. I think the background of people asking was (in part) to estimate if there were particular safety risks. (Although, living in Europe, I do not think that this is a major concern in most of Europe.)

In June I had my 2 week vacation and have shot about 250 Gb. Over half of that was in timelapses (shot in RAW); so the amount of data of 16Gb/day is not surprising.

I used an image tank in the past, but with the current price of memory cards, I do not think it is cost effective. Investing in an additional camera to the 1DX that is light and easy to take with you when going ot for dinner may give you more joy.

Photography Technique / Re: Getting photos home from overseas
« on: July 26, 2014, 06:19:26 AM »
Seems like a very cumbersome approach. You seem to be very afraid of loosing files. Do you have a particular bad experience that you are this cautious?

If you plan to shoot 16 Gb per day, then anything that has to go though the internet is out of scope. WiFi in hotels its typically not capable of uploading that amount of data in 1 night.

EOS Bodies / Re: Eos7D mk2, How EXCITED will you be if . . .?
« on: July 20, 2014, 08:20:49 AM »
I would fancy a 7D2 that could nicely complement my 5D3. For me this means:
- more reach due to the crop factor (and thus similar MP count)
- faster framerate (>8 )
- while having comparable AF and decent low light performance (usable pictures at ISO 3200)

nice to haves would be:
- dual card (same as 5D3)
- in camera flash RT control/trigger
- same battery as 5D3

If such camera would come at an attractive price (€ 1500-1800 / for reference, a 7D1 is about €1100-1200 over here, a 5D3 about €2700, and a 6D about €1600), I would probably buy one as a 2nd body.

Hey Scott, after reading through the responses here, I have a website you may want to visit that may help you:

unappropriate link

You probably try to be funny, but I think this reply is quite inappropriate. Although I agree with most of the criticism being given here, we have to give kudos to Scott for his courage to provide a link to his Flickr after having received such strong feedback. He doesn’t walk away from his critics, which –in my view– is a brave thing. He also tries not to take it personally, but to learn from the feedback. With your reply, you are making it personal.

Furthermore, I would not see how he would be helped with addresses in the US, as he lives in the Scotland, which is in the UK (not sure if you are aware of that).

I would speak for you, if you would edit your comment.

Lenses / Re: Safari 300 2.8 Mkii or 200-400 1.4x
« on: July 17, 2014, 09:08:28 AM »
400mm on full frame is a generally bit short for safari, so I would recommend the 200-400 1.4x over the 300 + 1.4x combo.

A cheaper alternative to buying the 200-400 would be to use the 300 + 2x on 1 body and the 70-200 (with 1.4) on your 2nd body. With the 2 2.8 lenses and both extenders you have
- 70-200 2.8 / 98-280 4.0 / 140-400 5.6
- 300 2.8 / 420 4.0 / 600 5.6

Overall reach is the same.

I would not say this is more or less flexibility, but it certainly is different flexibility over the 200-400.

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