October 02, 2014, 09:32:27 AM

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - bdunbar79

Pages: 1 ... 98 99 [100] 101 102 ... 173
1486
EOS Bodies / Re: 7d noise question is it normal?
« on: August 25, 2012, 04:18:53 PM »
I was just trying to figure out why you had ISO 640, if your shutter was 1/1600 and aperture f/13?  I always try to find the most reasonable combinations that gives me the lowest ISO possible, to avoid noise, even if it's just digital noise.  The 7D's sensor is noisy, unfortunately and the 18mp crammed into that sensor causes problems.  Why don't you shoot the clouds at f/8, and shutter 1/800, for instance, and keep ISO at 125?  (approximate settings).

Bird in flight demands a shutter speed as fast as possible...The basic setting for a dark BIF I use on my 7D with 300 2.8 is is: s1250 AV 2.8 ISO 160. This would work great for a bird like this.

At any rate, we agree the ISO could be a lot lower, right?

1487
EOS Bodies / Re: EOS BODY FOR ARCHITECTURE
« on: August 25, 2012, 03:49:39 PM »
If you need good IQ, you cannot beat D800. But for that, you have to get Nikon, as Canon is stuck with its 10 year old sensor tech. Since Canon sales are good, they have no incentive to use better sensors. Unless you are stuck to Canon due to financial/equipment commitments, Nikon is the better bet at this time.

Troll. Do you really feel like 36MP is necessary?  Unless your're printing in feet instead of inches, it is completely unnecessary. Also, if you're referring to Nikon's perceived high ISO image quality it is a moot point to an architecture photographer who shoots at native ISO (100) about 95% of the time.

How about Nikon's mediocre (compared to Canon) and outdated PC-E lenses?  What?  Nikon doesn't even manufacture a 17mm lens with shift?  That's a shame.

I'm not tryin to be a fanboy, but Canon is clearly the better choice for architectural purposes.

+1

1488
EOS Bodies / Re: 7d noise question is it normal?
« on: August 25, 2012, 03:46:12 PM »
I was just trying to figure out why you had ISO 640, if your shutter was 1/1600 and aperture f/13?  I always try to find the most reasonable combinations that gives me the lowest ISO possible, to avoid noise, even if it's just digital noise.  The 7D's sensor is noisy, unfortunately and the 18mp crammed into that sensor causes problems.  Why don't you shoot the clouds at f/8, and shutter 1/800, for instance, and keep ISO at 125?  (approximate settings).

1489
EOS Bodies / Re: 7d noise question is it normal?
« on: August 25, 2012, 02:57:47 PM »
Yes nightbreath, since he shot in spot metering, I'm guessing the areas he's showing is NOT his subject and therefore with that type of metering, is NOT exposed correctly.  Not to say that that can't be intentional, but then you pay with noise and/or banding in the surrounding areas.

1490
EOS Bodies / Re: 7d noise question is it normal?
« on: August 25, 2012, 02:44:35 PM »
ISO's a bit high for the 7D.  Although 640 is not that high, there is going to be some noise there with the 7D's sensor.  I don't recall 640 being so much that I couldn't apply NR, THEN increase sharpness.  If you increase sharpness first, you'll sharpen the noise.  Try to shoot ISO 100-400 from now on, if you can.  If not, you'll have to deal with this in post. 

This is why the 1D Mark IV, although a 1.3x crop factor, actually has more reach than the 7D at higher ISO's.

1491
I shoot sports, so I do RAW to Card 1, and JPEG to Card 2.  This goes for the 1DX and 1D4 as well.  Not much sense in sports to wait for the time lapse for both RAW's to go to to their respective cards.  Weddings and baby portraits, I do RAW to both, just as backup.  If nothing goes wrong with Card 1, I don't even upload from Card 2; it's just backup, even for sports.

Another advantage is if you don't want to change cards much.  You can shoot to Card 1 until it's full, then automagically switch to Card 2, with a quick menu right in the camera.  I have my cameras set that way as default if I'm just out shooting whatever.

1492
Third Party Manufacturers / Re: Your Ultimate Gear (wish)list
« on: August 25, 2012, 12:12:33 PM »
REALISTICALLY:

2 x 1DX
1D Mark IV
5D Mark III

16-35L II
24L II
24-70L II
70-200L II
85 f/1.2L II
100 f/2.0
135L
200 f/2L
300 f/2.8L II IS
400 f/2.8L II IS
500L II IS
600L II IS

I could live with all that :)

Funny how I said realistically at the top of my post when this list is not realistic at all  :P

1493
I use Sandisk 32GB for both CF and SD in my 5D Mark III.

1494
I agree that it depends on the lens, especially zoom lenses.  But you have to sit and think about why.  As you stop down, more and more of the center of the lens is actually being used, until you get so narrow that diffraction comes into play.  As you use more and more of the center, the sharper the images, until diffraction.  It is beyond me how something wider than f/3.2 can be the sharpest aperture on any lens.  I know I explained that very roughly, but it's coffee time :)   

1495
Speedlites, Printers, Accessories / Re: Sandisk VS Lexar CF Cards
« on: August 25, 2012, 12:44:05 AM »
90 Mb/s vs. 145 Mb/s is irrelevent even in 12 fps bursting in RAW mode on the 1DX.  The buffer clears way too fast for it to factor, as I've done this many, many times.

1496
Pretty much all of my lenses are sharpest around f/8.  That doesn't mean that lenses aren't sharp at other apertures.  That's just where they are sharpest.

Which lenses do you have?

All of the ones in my signature file.

Silly me.  I guess signatures actually do serve a purpose. Thanks.

Haha!  Hey no big deal!

1497
EOS Bodies / Re: EOS BODY FOR ARCHITECTURE
« on: August 24, 2012, 11:56:01 PM »
Also, images from a high MP camera is going to take a lot of harddisk place. Unless you are intending to make large prints or some drastic cropping, running out of space on the hard drive will be the only difference you will probably feel between 5Dmk2 and a high MP cam... IMHO anyway...

Cheers!
mRAW, sRAW.  Problem solved.  You can always downscale resolution, but it's impossible to add resolution beyond the camera's capabilities.

I agree TS-E lenses are a necessity (especially 17mm and 24mm I or II).  Full frame is a definite.  I'd say a 5D or 5D Mark II will save you a ton of money so you'll be able to buy both FLs.  Good tripod and head is also necessary. 

Additionally, you could add a used T2i, T3i, T4i or 60D in order to acheive 28mm and 38mm TS lenses with the crop factor (at 18mp; cropping the a FF picture from 5D would be 5MP, 5D II would be 8.2MP).

Except high MP cams don't shoot mRAW or sRAW.  At least none that I know of.  I'm not counting the 5D3, 5D2, or 1Ds3.  The D800 definitely doesn't.

1498
Pretty much all of my lenses are sharpest around f/8.  That doesn't mean that lenses aren't sharp at other apertures.  That's just where they are sharpest.

Which lenses do you have?

All of the ones in my signature file. 

1499
I bought two lenses and I prefer to take most of my shots near or on the mythical sweetspot in regards to aperture.  With the presumption of sufficient light, for my 50mm f/1.4 I try to stay between 2.8 and 4.0.  For my 24-105mm f/4 I make an effort to approach f/8, but that isn't always an option.

So that raises the aforementioned question.  What aperture range is the 100mm and the 70-200 the sharpest?  And don't hesitate to tell me that I was wrong about the 50 and 24-105... if indeed I'm way off.

Thanks a bunch.

Pretty much all of my lenses are sharpest around f/8.  That doesn't mean that lenses aren't sharp at other apertures.  That's just where they are sharpest.

1500
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: CPS Membership - Gold vs Platinum
« on: August 24, 2012, 01:54:47 PM »
Eh, Gold's plenty good enough for me.  Just make sure your gear is insured, then get a Gold membership and you're ready to roll.

Pages: 1 ... 98 99 [100] 101 102 ... 173