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Messages - bdunbar79

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2266
Ok, thanks guys. 

2267
Even if the 5D Mark III has lower DR than the competition, who cares?????  It still has good DR!  That's like saying a billionaire worth $2 billion has less money than Bill Gates.  Who cares?

2268
I would suggest spot metering and ignore the blown backgrounds if that was possible

Else this is time for M mode by taking a few sample shots before the action starts. This will give you opportunity to get the best compromise

So trial and error type thing?  Maybe try something more white than gray let's say?  Then snap a few shots and check the meter and histogram?  Thanks.

2269
Lenses / Re: Lens upgrade
« on: June 16, 2012, 07:31:04 PM »
I've just taken the plunge and bought a secondhand 24-105L to replace my secondhand 28-135mm. Have I done the right thing? As I'm waiting for the L to arrive at the beginning of the week I'm wondering just how much better is the L than the 28-135? Suppose I'm looking for reassurance really. I've read loads of reviews, forum posts (here and elsewhere) and anything else I could find about both lenses and have come to the conclusion that for 100 posts there will be 100 different opinions! I am most concerned about the upgrade of the optical quality since my camera body isn't weather sealed having a weather sealed lens seems a bit of an unnecessary luxury. I've only tried out the L in Jessops so haven't had much experience of it though everyone raves about it. Replacing the lens with one of similar length seemed the best thing as the 28-135 was a good choice. I don't tend to shoot wide (landscapes etc) so even on a crop body the reach suits me.

I'm selling the old lens on eBay since the local independent camera shop only does secondhand sales at a whopping 25% commission and the photography section on Craigslist doesn't appear to have a lot of activity in this locality.

I just hope I don't regreat spending the extra cash.

It's way better.  Just shoot a few shots with it when you get it and you'll see what I mean:  sharpness, contrast, color rendition, it's all there.

2270
Lenses / Re: 50mm 1.4 rear element broke?
« on: June 16, 2012, 05:09:44 PM »
I hardly use my 50mm 1.4 because I have the 1.2.  I just keep it as a backup.  My 1 year old daughter managed to pick it up while it was out of my bag and it dropped on the hard wood floor.  When I picked it up I discovered the rear element had popped out.  I pushed it back in and it snapped into place.  After a short test the lens seems to be focusing and working just fine.  Does anyone know if that the rear element is just pressed into place or when it fell did it break something I don't know about?  I hate to rely on it one day and find out it is broken but I also hate to send it in if it is fine.  Anyone know?

I'm paranoid, so when I bought the 50 f/1.4 and read all the horror stories regarding the AF breaking and quit working after awhile, I leave the lens hood on it all the time and overexessively keep a B+W Slim UV haze filter on it at all times :)

2271
There's a thread elsewhere about some Euro football shooter that is using the 1DX. Does he complain anywhere about no longer having a 1.3x crop? No. All he cares about is the autofocus performance and frame rate. Wonder of wonders.

I can't follow the logic of your threads - one minute you are advocating APS-C because of the reach now you are talking about ff. My difficulty is understanding why you are so anti APS-H - and assume I am a APD-H fanboy  when you consider that I only bought it October 2011 as an upgrade to the 7D.

From my ownership of both the 7D I am suggesting a replacement for the 7D as a APS-H super sports camera not a replacement for the 1DX. I would be interested to know whether 7D owners would like to upgrade to:

- 10fps
- 24mps
- twin CF slots
- 42 point AF
- AF point metering

All these features would be available by migrating down the technology from the 1D4. Not a big deal and from my experience a very valid suggestion.

I'm very serious here.  Brian if that were the case, I'd buy that over the 1D X and be very happy.

2272
Lenses / Re: First L Lens or upgrade, looking for advice
« on: June 16, 2012, 05:04:35 PM »
Most Weddings are dark.

If its dark, you need lens speed.

If you want speed, there are good, cheap primes or very expensive zooms.

Primes are faster than 2.8 but are more limiting. Zooms that are 2.8 are more expensive.

Prime setup for wedding work.

24L II or 28 1.8

50mm 1.2L or 50mm 1.4

135mm f2L or 100mm f2

Zoom setup.

24-70 2.8L
70-200 2.8 L II.

Both are capable setups, primes offer raw speed for less $$$ and zooms convenience. A mixed bag will increase weight of either option.

Pick your poison.

That's pretty much what I did.  The 24-70L was staple.  I also brought a 50, 85, and 135 prime.  My kit was:  zooms 24-70L and 70-200L, primes 50 f/1.4, 85 f/1.2L, 135 f/2L.  Cameras:  5D Mark II and 1D Mark III backup body.  Had a tripod and flash.  Now all this wedding talk has got me thinking about getting into weddings again and as luck would have it, had sold my 24-70L.  Now you guys are making me buy the 24-70L II.  STOP IT!

2273
EOS Bodies - For Stills / 1D Mark IV and indoor basketball question
« on: June 16, 2012, 04:58:21 PM »
This winter I'm going to be shooting indoor basketball for a high school in Mansfield, OH.  I have a 1D Mark IV that I've used extensively for outdoor well-lit sports (track mainly).  To practice, I went to an open-gym just to get an idea on focal lengths and perspectives.  The trouble I had was metering.  There was a door open at one end of the gym letting massive amounts of outdoor light in, with a huge blown highlight area on the floor.  Ok, I can work around that.  However, I had trouble metering in the gym and got quite a few over and underexposed images.  What is the best way to meter for these situations, such as indoor gyms?  I haven't had any trouble outside because that's easier, and controlled portrait indoor light hasn't been a problem.  But there are no flashes allowed and I was wondering if there is a more robust way to meter action indoors.  I've never done this before.  Thanks!

2274
EOS Bodies / Re: New 5D Mark III Firmware Before the End of May [CR2]
« on: June 16, 2012, 03:58:51 PM »
I too am irritated by the 1/250th limit in Auto ISO in Av mode.  If I'm in Av mode, I should be able to automagically have a shutter speed higher than that and have the ISO go to to whatever it needs.  I guess that is a fairly complex thing for a camera to do, but it would still be nice.  So, you switch to manual mode.  But with auto ISO there, no EC.  So if you shoot the 5D Mk III, you really have to do most or all of your exposure compensation via ISO #.  Well not really, but you know what I mean.

2275
Lenses / Re: First L Lens or upgrade, looking for advice
« on: June 16, 2012, 03:53:55 PM »
hi neuro,

Yes, that lens is superb, compared to L quality, if not equal and better at some cases, Ive read really good reviews about it, plus its wide.

But I do plan to move FF one day. I can always keep the 60D and the 17 55 for back up.

If you love to shoot wider than 24mm, then get the 16-35L for FF or the 17-55 for APS-C.  Or invent the Canon EF 16-105mm f/2.8L lens.

2276
I never shot sub 24mm on FF.  I do have the 16-35mm L lens, and I brought it with me, but  I don't recall ever using it more than a few times.  My style was more photojournalistic/sports, just because that's my forte, but perhaps you would want some photos, such as the front of the church with wedding members bustling about, but I felt that 24mm was short enough for that.  Any wider you can lose alot of immediate-to-the-eye detail.  I feel that the 16-35L would not be necessary; 17-40L would be great or 10-22 on the 60D.  If you find yourself in a pinch and need a tight indoor shot in low light, use the high iso capabilities and even if that shot with post-processing doesn't look good, throw it out as those shots aren't typically "key" shots of the wedding anyways.

2277
Nice shot.

2278
No you're right about duplication at the 85-100 end.  A 35L on a crop sensor body would be fine, since it's 56mm cropped in.  Again it's your call and what perspectives you want.  Personally, I shot with an 85mm on a FF body so I was shooting just that, 85mm.  That's why I recommended the 50mm for the crop body.  A 35mm f/2 would work okay on a 60D but I didn't like it on FF because the corners were pretty bad.  They were not as bad as on a 7D.  If I were you, and let's say you did get a 24-70 mm zoom lens, whichever one you had, that may serve your purposes on the FF.  If you planted the 50mm on the crop body, you'd have an 80mm prime in a sense.  Again though, the 35 works because 56mm is OK too for a lot of wedding shots.  It's not an easy choice because you'd put the lenses on the different bodies, so it's totally your call.  The 24-70 will take care of a lot of it.  And realistically, why couldn't you switch lenses and put the 24-70 on the 60D for awhile?  When the bride is coming down the aisle though, I personally liked the 80-85mm focal length from where I was.  You could achieve that two ways:  24-70 on the 60D, OR a 50mm prime on the 60D.  Again, I know I'm adding more confusion, but it's your call.  I didn't have a crop sensor at the time, I only had a 5D Mark II and 1D Mark III, so I had to have an 85mm lens; you don't.

2279
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Should wait for a new EOS body?
« on: June 16, 2012, 01:16:25 PM »
If you are shooting weddings and portraits, I'd buy a 5D Mark II.  They're $2199 right now new.  That with your 60D would be fantastic.  Again, weddings, get the 24-70L lens, either the mark I or II.  Gotta have that.  I'm going to start doing weddings again and I'll have to get the 24-70L II even though I have primes in that range.  What are you gonna do though?

2280
So I've decided to get into the pro wedding business for real. I got to know a guy who - if my luck persists - will tell me the tricks of the local trade and coach me through my first contracts.

Until now, I shot purely for fun and learning, and now have a general idea where the shutter button is located. But in the future it'll business all over, at least that's the idea. And while it'll take a while to set me up, I'll have to get my new working gear now to become familiar with it, while keeping the cost-income relationship somewhat sane.

  • Conditions: From what I'm hearing, the basic idea when starting out is to get the job done, capture the important moments, the atmosphere and to get shots of all guests and esp. the relatives, so everyone is happy. The clients I'll be acquiring when starting off won't be concerned with corner sharpness, complicated flash setups or life-size prints.
  • My current gear: I've got the 60d as a backup body and the 100L for portraits, might be nice as a 160/2.8 on the crop body, too. I don't think the 70-300L is adequate for weddings, but from what I'm hearing, the local conditions don't necessarily call for a $2000+ 70-200 anyway. I'll have to get an uwa & some 24-70 lens and might ask about this in a separate thread - but with what body/flash?

BODY: I'll need a somewhat affordable high-iso ff body, so a 5d seems to make sense.

  • 5d2. It's half the price of the successor, and if using focus/recompose people seem to have used this successfully for wedding occasions.
  • 5d3. It's said to have higher iso performance, but looking at the raw samples I hardly can see an improvement? Is better awb, more fps (or quiet shutter), dual cards and the updated af system a noticeable improvement for weddings?

FLASH: For wedding run & gun, I guess I'll need one fast recycling flash with a battery pack, so my 430ex2 won't suffice. While shooting w/o flash might be preferable, as far as I understand it there's hardly any way around it.

  • 580ex2. Isn't sold new anymore, and obsolete ir technology. Seems to have a bug when using hss extensively. But great if combined with 3rd party triggers, esp. since these can trigger dumb ttl flashes, too.
  • 600rt. This is currently the must-have choice for the 5d3, but seems to be compatible with the 5d2 as well - and except the price there are no drawbacks (it can work with 3rd party triggers too)?

My personal recommendation is to keep your 60D as a backup camera and definitely use it at some point during the weddings.  I would buy a 5D Mark II and get either the 580 or 600 flash (I just ordered the 600 yesterday).  You will certainly need the 24-70L zoom lens, which is why I recommend the 5D Mk II.  In weddings, from my experience, the 5D Mk III would be a diminishing returns type thing.  If you shoot RAW don't worry about white balance so much.  That is a minor issue.  In an ideal world, you'd have the 5D Mk II with 600EX-RT flash, 24-70L zoom lens, and I would strongly encourage you to get a 50mm lens for the 60D and USE it.  50mm on a crop body is 80mm.  Or, you could get an 85 f/1.8 to use on both cameras.  It depends on your style of wedding shooting.  I prefer a photojournalistic type approach more, but I would take 3 primes and the zoom lens, 2 cameras, and the flash.  If you have any more questions please keep asking because there a LOT of people on here who do or did weddings.  As long as you have the equipment described above and you know how to use that equipment, AND you get the exposures correct, you will be taking some awesome wedding photos!  Good luck.

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