I just bought a 5DII since I got tired of waiting for a MkIII, but I would upgrade in a flash if it had at least some of first few of the following. Actually, the first 4 are could probably be done in a firmware upgrade, which I would be happy to pay $500-$1000 for.
Expose-to-the-right setting where you set the amount of clipping of highlights
Pixel binning so I can shoot 10MP at ISO6400 and get similar noise to ISO 1600
mproved live-view/playback functions :
- Direct x10 magnification (and/or zoom into) of actual focus point in image playback (might be difficult
when using phase-detect AF and re-composing, but for contrast-detect it should be fine).
- DOF lock (so I donâ€™t have to keep it pressed down while scanning the image or changing the aperture)
- Ability to zoom in to edges of frame
- Screen brightness lock when DOF preview button is pressed (since I have to use manual exposure because the matrix metering sucks, even on a tripod). Iâ€™m not sure why I need the screen brightness to change when changing the aperture while pressing the DOF button and I already had the brightness on exposure simulation.
- Faster contrast detect AF
3,5,7 shot autobracket +/- 3 stops +/-2 on either end
9-11 cross point AF, better Al-Servo. I havenâ€™t used the AF on the 7D, but is seems more complicated than I need, but just copying that could be fine. F8 for the center AF point would be a dream (70-200 f4 + x2 tele).
Better and more consistent matrix metering. OK, Iâ€™ve only had the camera 1 month, but it seems very inconsistent compared to my T1i. Even on a tripod or in very similar lighting. I could write an essay on this but now I know why it seems many people shoot in manual with this camera and although it has honed my manual exposure skills over the last month it is a pain sometimes (especially when changing the aperture using DOF preview in live mode). This could also be a function of the increased dynamic range over the T1i, in which case the â€˜Expose-to-the-rightâ€™ metering will be even more valuable if the DR is increased without going to 16bits.
Keep the MP in the 21-26 range and increase DR and reduce high ISO noise. IMO you are not going to get a 36MP camera with the same DR and high ISO IQ as you have now. Something fundamental needs to happen with sensor technology for this to happen which is why the 1Dx only has 18MP. (Or they could keep cheating on the ISO ratings â€“ they are already 2/3 stop lower than my T1i for instance).
Focus point distance readout (for setting hyperfocal distance or judging optimal focal distance for landscapes)
Inbuilt wireless flash control
1, 3 or 6 fps (not 1 or 6 â€“ too much difference)
Timer on LCD in bulb mode (so I can see exposure time in the dark)
Create new folder for each day
Movie mode on main dial. I don't use it much, but have to have it turned off because I use live-view a lot and don't want to start recording if I hit 'set'. Going into the menu's to use the video is a bit of a pain, but overall as long as it doesn't interfere with still shooting, I'm not too bothered.
If you want pixel binning, why don't you just down-res in PP, and get the same result? Stuff looks way better when down ressed thusly...