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Hi allI went for a walk yesterday. I saw a robin... it flew away before I could get a picture. I saw a great Blue Heron.... it flew away before I could get a picture. I saw several turkey vultures way overhead that even a 600mm lens would not have been long enough for... they did not get close enough for a picture. I saw a red-tailed hawk... it flew away before I could get a picture..... get the picture? I didn't!
So my wife and I were walking in the park and she spots this hummingbird and points it to me. I have never seen one before, and got quite excited and worked up. The results were quite dismal (the best effort is below), so I am not even going to ask what I did wrong. But let's say this situation arises again, what should I do to ensure at least optimal results. I had a 135mm L attached to my 5dIII, ISO 160 (was set on Auto), f/8, 1/125 (was set on Av, forgot to change it in the haste). Thanks in advance.
That could be dangerous....I have a big milestone birthday coming up on May 31 and my wife wants to buy me a special present.Mmmmmmm zero. But I would suggest a 5DMkIII
Wonder what my chances are it will be a 7D MKII?
An IOU for the camera of your choice
In the last year, 4K televisions have gone from unheard of to having their own section in the local Best Buy. We can argue about this all we want, but they have become consumer devices. 2K televisions debuted at over $10,000 and now there is a decent selection of them below $1000... 4K televisions have begun the same price dropping trajectory.See how most people seem to be jumping around this question.
Anyway, let me be the first, I just got my 60 inch FHD TV a few years ago (2-3 years ago to be precise)... so no upgrades for another decade at least. At which point, I hope the first 8K TVs will be showing up.
Ok, so you spent a huge chunk of change on a TV, it has likely already dropped in value a lot so you don't want to be in a hurry to spend a lot more ...QuoteCome on now, don't be a spoil sport, how many of you guys own a 4K TV? How many are going to be buy one in the next year or two?
I'm not buying a new TV until I can get HEVC/H265 support built in. Whether that TV also does 4K will depend on price (I'd be looking for something about the same price as the 5D Mark III.) The main reason I'm thinking about this is that the black levels on my current TV are terrible.QuoteAlso... how many of the Pro-4K peeps are going to actually buy the Sony a7s?
Or are they going to keep badgering Canon to make a camera similar to the Gh4 and/or a7s?
I expect that folks will start considering using the a7s and GH4 as the B-camera or the camera to use in awkward (physical) situations to augment their already existing 4K projects. The limitation around serious use of the a7s for video is the exact same one faced by the 5D Mark II when people started using it: quality cinema lenses.QuoteAt this point, even if Canon released something tomorrow with 4K, I don't think the same people that are badgering right now, will buy into it... they will find some fault in it and complain some more....
In fact, I don't think they can afford a new camera right now..... they just want something to complain about.
If Canon released the 7D Mark II tomorrow with 4K video, I'd jump for joy but the problem is we all know they won't.
A tilt shift is not good advice for the OP.Great to hear from someone who is using the gear for the intended purpose....
The 6D and 17-40, a Manfrotto 055 with a 410 geared head plus three flashes, I'd suggest YN-560 III's and a 603 II trigger, couple of stands and a Justin clamp. Oh, and this eBook http://photographyforrealestate.net/lighting/
For the vast majority of real estate shooting size and absolute IQ is not a factor, MLS limits are often very small and 1024 px images are normal, any advantage a tilt shift can give could be done in post to these sizes and larger. The only time a tilt shift is a good buy is if the clients are demanding higher quality for posters and architectural images, magazines, things like that.
At this point in time the majority of my income is from real estate photography, specifically for developers, they demand high IQ as they output in print and posters etc as well as websites. I use the 17 TS-E, mostly for interiors, but don't require the movements that much, exteriors normally need a longer focal length.
As for shift use, well as Don says, in real estate it is mainly used for keeping walls straight when shooting taller lines, it doesn't actually change the plane of focus any, that is always parallel to the plane of the sensor until you use tilt, but tilt has very limited use in real estate work, much more in architectural imaging. I use shift to get less ceiling and more floor space in the image whilst keeping the optimal viewing height, but you can fake that with a wider lens and crop.
Here's another thing this made me think of - from the movie Naked Gun:
i loved that goofy movie and leslie's brand of "idiot" comedy.
the scene in that movie where he plays the baseball home plate umpire calling strikes on every pitch and eventually responding to the cheering crowd with "moon walking" and break dancing strike calls is simply an all time classic movie scene. (in the comedy genre of course)
|Pet Beaver Molson I am canadian Canada||Small | Large|
On a normal lens, the plane of focus is parallel to the sensor, but when you tilt/shift the lens, you shift the plane of focus. Say you are photographing a tall building from near the base... when you take a picture, the middle of the building is in focus but the top and the bottom are not. Also, the sides of the building are not straight. With the tilt/zoom you can change the plane of focus to be more inline with the building and more of it will be in focus.... and the sides will be straighter.get the 6D and use the savings to buy a nice tilt shift+1 on that!
The tilt/shift lens will have more impact on your photos that going from a 6D to a 5D3 will.... and don't forget to shoot in RAW and get some decent editing software.
I wish I understood the draw of a tilt shift.
get the 6D and use the savings to buy a nice tilt shift+1 on that!
I have a big milestone birthday coming up on May 31 and my wife wants to buy me a special present.
Wonder what my chances are it will be a 7D MKII?
Hi, could you please show how you arrived at this formula!
BODMAS being the first principle, (0x)10 I still recon this equals zero even if x is an unknown, anything (x) times 0=0, 0x10 =0 so are you saying 6D +0 = 7D? Or is my calculus (basically unused for 20 yrs) really that rusty?
I stand to be corrected, perhaps we are using cypher principles rather than mathematical principles?
Cheers Graham.For the uses listed, the 6D is the better choice, budget permitting.6D
I was going to say +1, but 6D + 1 = 7D, and that's not what I mean.
No, 6D + 1 = 6E. 6D + (0x)10 = 7D.
I saw it... and I thought there would be a joke somewhere than I'm not getting.
6D9 + 1= 6E Ok... Then we need to solve for D since that is use in the next equation.
So plug that into the next equation which gives us...
So... reduce... and we get to
plug that into the equation above...
I loved calculus 1 and 2 and got my ass kicked in calc three... so one day when I'm retired... I'll happily go back and audit some calc classes... for shitz and giggz.
Few more of my favorites share with everyone.The second shot is perfection!
1Dx with 1.4x extender
Focal length and aperture are lens properties and the lens does not change no matter what body you put it on!You hear so many complicated explanations, yet the answer is so simple.... A crop sensor samples the central portion of the image, usually at a higher density....
There are a ton of confusing articles that cause confusion because of the terminology used. People will glance at that title and become convinced that its true.
Where the confusion comes in , is that some assume the same lens to subject distance, while some assume the same composition (move the camera further away).
If you move the camera further away to get the same angle of view as FF, then the depth of field is different. If you keep the camera at the same distance, then the angle of view is different.
The focal length and lens aperture never change.
He was either, an idiot, misinformed, or trying to con you.Agreed!
You do not need a UV filter on any lens ever, they are useful particularly at higher altitudes when using film. Some/many swear by them as protection for the front element as an unrelated side use too. All digital camera sensors have UV blocking filters built in.