Any recommendations? I just bought a Spyder4Pro calibration kit. I used to use a Sony XBR6 52" TV for some casual shot editing, but wanted to do more serious editing for landscape. Thanks!
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Can we just call it a really good lens? Good enough to take amazing photos. And you can get bad shots too if you take a bad photo.I have compared it to my 24-70 II, 24L, TS-E 17, and TS-E 24 II and it's every bit as sharp as those lenses, with the exception of the TS-E 24 and the 24-70II @ 35mm. At f/11 they are all pretty close, though I'd give the 16-35 f/4 IS & 24-70II the edge in color and contrast. Really. The corners are MUCH sharper than the 16-35 f/2.8 II that I sold in part because CA is almost non-existent. Distortion isn't great at 16mm, but I'm sure DxO & Adobe will take care of that soon. The IS is very odd because you can't see the effect like you do with an unwieldy telephoto, but I think it will be a great travel/walkaround lens.
I'll put together the photos in the coming days (both brick wall & real-world shots) for everyone to take a look at.
Another issue with an image stabiliser is that it takes a few seconds to settle. If you just point and snap, there a possibility that the gyros and elements haven't settled and you get soft images.
Got mine today from B&H. What a beautiful lens!
Ran through FoCal 1.9.7 tonight:
AFMA: +1 at 16mm; 0 at 35mm
AF Consistency (on 5DIII): 99.7%
Aperture Sharpness: Relatively flat from f4 to f6.3 at 16mm; sharpest at f4.5 at 35mm
Quality of Focus values are lower at 35mm (max around 1,920) than at 16mm (max around 1,970).
Testing condition: 2x 150W bulbs; EV 10.6; tested at both 25x and 50x distance.
Real world shooting experience: super fast AF; IS operation is extremely fast.
I love this lens. Will take it to a trip in Oregon in August.
If you are testing with tunsten bulbs and not natural daylight, you are limiting your testing to a shallow portion of the light spectrum. As the colour of light moved to the red end of the scale, there can be a focus shift and more inaccuracys. All you are testing there is the camera / lens focus ability under those lighting conditions.
I'm often correcting photographers who are calibrating their lenses at night (becuase that's when they have the spare time) when they should be calibrating them out doors in good light during the daytime.