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Messages - viggen61

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Lenses / Re: how to get 300 2.8
« on: September 16, 2014, 07:54:21 PM »
The 300 f/2.8L IS USM II is selling for $5,279.20 refurbished in the Canon USA store. Full 1 year Canon US warranty, and all accessories (caps, hood, straps and the suitcase).

I doubt you can go wrong with either the original or the sequel, but if you can swing it, I'd try for the II. Especially at that price!

Photography Technique / Re: POLL: Do you crop (and why)?
« on: September 11, 2014, 07:32:19 PM »
I Bird Photo Therefore I Crop
Amen to that!

I voted yes (other) because I crop for many reasons. Focal length, BIF, etc.

Photography Technique / Re: Tripod/camouflage for birds/wildlife?
« on: August 29, 2014, 10:18:28 AM »
Ok, my recent vacation to southern England has showed me how much fun I have shooting birds, so I want to get more deeply into it. I think my camera and lens (7D+70-300L) are sufficient for my needs right now. My question is about accessories.
Do you use a tripod/monopod/shoot handheld and why do you do that?

All of the above! It depends on the situation, what I want to carry, what I am carrying, etc.

Monopod is great for traveling light.
Tripod is the best stability, but not nearly so light
Handheld is the lightest, but with a large lens, not so easy to keep steady.

In case of tripod/monopod which pod/head combo are you using?

Tripod: With a large lens (I use it with a 100-400), a gimbal is a great option. When properly adjusted, the camera & lens "float" in perfect balance, so it takes little effort to move, and it stays where you put it.

Monopod: Probably best with a monopod head that only has one adjusting axis.

I'm not a huge ballhead fan, especially for long focal lengths. I find that the advantages of rapid adjustment and (almost) infinite number of positions is outweighed by a lack of precision (getting it exactly where I want it) and repeatability. But others swear by them.

Are you using any sort of camouflage?
If yes, what type, a blind, a throwover or something like a ghillie suit?

I have some camoflage jackets in one of the Realtree patterns. Im many cases, simply wearing drab clothing that somewhat mimics your surroundings is fine. A solid green or tan jacket & pants work ok in many situations. Shun team colors, anything bright (with the exception of so-called "Hunter" orange for safety). No real need to be shelling out for expensive camo clothing unless you're really going "into the bush".

As for blinds, many different things will work. Even a car. I go to a couple wildlife refuges that have auto tour roads, and you can often get pretty close to skittish avians just by rolling up in the car slowly. I've gotten many great shots that way. I know a guy who built a "shed on wheels" that he can roll around his backyard to photograph birds. So long as they can't see you as a predator, they'll go about their business.

And I can't overstate the importance of patience. There's a turnout on one of the auto tours I frequent that gets a lot of sparrows & warblers. Soon as you pull up, thy scatter, but, if I shut off the car and wait 10-20 minutes, they come back, and pretty much ignore the car.

Some birds will always be a challenge, though!
I have a Leica Ultravid 8x32, is that sufficient for my needs in the field?
Binoculars? Sounds like they'll be fine. I tend to prefer 10x, as that more closely resembles the view at 400mm with my 7D. I've got a pair of Nikon 10x binoculars, and they're fine for me, but I don't think I'd trade Leica for Nikon! You may also want to think about investing in a set with larger objectives. An 8x40 gathers more light than an 8x32, and is easier to see with in the often dim light of forests.
Questions about questions, but I appreciate every answer and am looking forward to the insights in your technique!   :D Thanks!
You're gonna want a longer lens. 400mm is about "entry level" for birds, though 300 can be good at times. I started out with a 70-300, but went to a 100-400 very quickly.

Here is an excellent online reference. Secrets of Digital Bird Photography. (

Good luck!

EOS Bodies / Re: MISSING Camera body feature
« on: August 28, 2014, 01:19:33 PM »
So like many, I have de-coupled the half shutter press from AF, and instead use the AF-ON button to Auto Focus.

Boom - no more hesitation when the trigger is pulled waiting for the lens to re-focus.

What's missing though is a second AF-ON button / Dedicated SERVO mode.

How many of you toggle between "Single Shot" and "Servo" ?

Is it just me, or it would it be sooooooo nice to have them both at your fingertip?

Switching between C1/2/3 isn't a good alternative, esp with a locked dial.
5d3 and 1 DX can program the dof button to do this
As can the 7D.

(though I do find that placement less than ideal...)

Also, if one owns one of the "great whites" with the buttons on the lens ring, they can do the same thing. As always, the camera manual has this information.

Put me down as a fan of Unique Photo in Fairfield, NJ. Good store, good folks. Bought my 7D there. Best of all, as an NJ resident, no tolls parking or transit expense!

Abe's of "maine" is now (was?) a small place in a warehouse district in Edison NJ. I did not get the warm and fuzzies there. They did, though, let me play with about $6,000 of camera gear unattended. Not worth it, though. Cameras are a tiny part of their business.

Fat-32 can be used too, almost any computer will read and write it.

True. However, recent implementations of Apple's Disk Utility won't give you that option, at least for some disk types. I know it won't give you that option for large USB thumb drives...

Good day everyone,
The problem is so stupid that I decided to create an account here to ask

I use a Transcend HDD because my MBP retina 15 has only 256 mb inside it — not quite enough to store important RAW files.
I converted it to ExFAT format, don't remember why but there are some serious profits.

The problem is when I connect my HDD to windows running computer, the system asks to check the HDD to prevent some errors, when I do that it actually erases half of my RAW files and only then allows to use it. (one can't overcome the checking, windows won't let you move something to your HDD)

I found some solutions, eg Stellar Phoenix Photo Recovery — brilliant thing, but I'm kind of tired of doing the same thing everytime, because it take 5 hours(at least) to restore 750GB HDD.

What's wrong with the HDD? Why windows sees RAW files as damaged ones?

ExFAT is not supported directly in some versions of Windows. Your Windows friends might need to install an updater from Microsoft. I know that Windows XP requires an update to support exFAT, but Windows 7 (and presumably later versions) do not.

Macs can read from, but not write to NTFS (last I heard).

Why do you need to connect to a Windows machine? If we know why, we may be able to recommend a safer course of action. One suggestion, if you're only sharing a few files, would be to burn to a DVD or CD which have universal file formats.

retina, retina, retina!
and a 4k 24" external monitor like the UP2414Q


My mpbr has 99% srgb coverage.


Canon General / Re: DOF and Sensor Size
« on: July 01, 2014, 03:18:22 PM »
This can be so confusing, but it really should not be.

For a given lens, subject and distance to that subject, the DoF is exactly the same whether your EF lens is mounted on a full frame camera, APS-H camera or APS-C camera. But because of the narrower angle of view of the APS sensor sizes (aka "crop factor"), you do not see the same framing in each camera. So with a full face portrait, the APS-H might cut off the ears, and the APS-C much more than that.

Where the DoF changes is when you want to achieve exactly the same framing between disparate sensor sizes. Since the APS-size sensor image looks like a "zoomed in" version of a full frame image (due to the narrower angle of view), to achieve the same image in both sensors corner to corner, you need to either back away from your subject with your APS camera (increasing the distance to the subject), or zoom out, shortening the focal length of your lens. Either one of these variables then changes the DoF result in the image and mathematically when changed in the formula.

But, as with most comparisons between full frame and crop, unless you carry both with you, and need to make a decision on which to use in a given situation, there's little reason for most of us to worry over it on a daily basis.

Have you handled a larger great white?  I'd suggest that you do and decide if you want a hand holdable or not.

The 400 is ii us m and 600 ii is usm  are for me marginally hand hold able (and thus less good for difficult birds in flight).  I have no experience with the 200-400.

The 300is ii usm and to a lesser degree the 500 ii usm are hand holdable and the 300 for sure takes extenders really well.  The MTF would indicate that the 500 does so very well as well.

So Id go for the 300 or the 500 unless you are in very good shape in which case any of the great white sharks would work for you.  If I were to buy a 500 I'd consider camera canada as they have a deal on the 500....

Different strokes for different folks!

I know a photographer that almost exclusively handholds a 1D4 with an 800 f/5.6, but others who think a 100-400 like mine is "too much lens to carry"...

Personally, I'd likely opt for the 500 as well. I rented a 500II last year, and it was spectacular! Adding my 1.4xIII helped in the reach department as well, and hardly affected the images my 7D captured.

I for one am disgusted that the new camera does not include an integrated popcorn maker and cheese grater.
(just trying to beat the rush)  :o ;D ;)
That's it! Nikon for me!  ::)

Anyone know how NDAs generally work?

Do they usually expire or get lifted before the product is announced, or do companies purposely set the NDA expiration date after their projected announcement date and then lift it once the announcement is made?

I'm guessing the latter. It doesn't seem like they would lift an NDA until they release or announce the product.

So, if the NDAs expire in September, that would be the latest date for a release announcement?

You pretty much want the NDA/Embargo to be lifted coincidentally with if not slightly before the actual announcement. Example: Canon wants to announce something on date X. The NDA/embargo would be lifted at the very latest just before the announcement, but likely a day or more before.

The reason for this is if you want the biggest impact for your announcement, you want everyone who was under the NDA/Embargo - photographers, columnists, reviewers, etc. - to be crowing about your product at the same time as your announcement.

I'm sure that Canon are at least as smart as carmakers in disguising their new products.

In addition to all manner of cheap-looking camouflage, or putting last year's body on this year's mechanicals, carmakers have occasionally used the ploy of badging a car as something it isn't. Back in the 1960s, when Saab was testing their then-new 99 model, they badged one as a "Daihatsu", and tested in plain sight. So it would be really easy to slap on a regular 7D badge, or something else, and only upon close examination would someone be able to tell it wasn't what it said it was.

Let's not forget also, that though the 200-400 1.4x was tested in the open at the 2012 Olympics, it had already been announced and shown, and a black camera body is a lot easier to disguise than a great white lens!

Software & Accessories / Re: 1-Hour Photo iPhone App - Why?
« on: June 20, 2014, 02:40:57 PM »
It's missing a minute and a half or so wait after the 36th exposure, no matter if the 35th was taken weeks ago.

That gets me thinking how wrong the app really is. The wait shouldn't just be an hour, it should be an hour after the 36th before you can review any of those 36 images PLUS a minute and a half delay after the 36th before you can start shooting again on the next 'roll'.

More (gotta stop thinking about this, it's getting ridiculous), it needs a thumb swipe from left to right on the screen between shots, twirl a virtual crank clockwise on the left of the screen to rewind after 36, another left thumb swipe to engage the leader. Forget to engage the leader and you can still cock and release the shutter, wait an hour after 36 to find nothing.
Premium version of the app can only shoot 24 exposures, results are negatives that cannot be reversed until uploaded to a PC or maybe an on-line cloud service for another fee.

Film loading and film advancing/shutter cocking are things I miss about film, but I don't miss having to do them.

Actually, it should be 3 days to a week before you can review them, and it should charge you $11.99 for "Processing"...

Or, we could have the DIY version, where you get random "problems" as if the film wasn't wound on the developing reel properly, development time was wrong, you fixed before developing...

EOS Bodies / Re: A Few EOS 7D Mark II Specs [CR1]
« on: June 12, 2014, 09:09:59 AM »
If this is in a 1D body with built in battery grip, I can see a lot of enthusiasts disappointed. When the 80D or 90D comes out, they'll say that is what the 7D2 should have been.

That may be, but for me, I'd welcome the built-in grip on a 7DII. My hands, while not bigger than many, are bigger than most, and I'm just not comfortable without a grip on the camera. My 7D hasn't gone out without the grip since I bought the grip.

Sure, an add-on grip is good, and better than nothing, but in my experience, the BG-E7 is not nearly as water-resistant as the 7D body is (assuming it is water-resistant at all, which I doubt), and it leaves the body open to water intrusion through the battery compartment, since the grip does not seal that. I got caught in a very slight mist, and the grip basically stopped working, and even since drying out, the grip's shutter button is about a 50-50 chance of it working when I need it. All other grip functions, and the camera body, and the 100-400 are fine, though.

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