« on: February 02, 2015, 06:10:24 PM »
Thanks, I am going to order now that I see it.
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It is an improved 1D X metering system, the same in the 7D MkII, the 150000 pixels are divided into the 252 zones for a greater coverage. You can read more about it now in 7D Mk II reviews or Canon information pages.150,000 pixel RGB-TR metering sensor
252 zone TTL metering
I don't get this. I thought the 150,000 pixel metering sensor replaced the 35 zone (and similar) metering sensors. Why would this be specified twice?
Wondered the same thing
I am going to order this new one from RSS but until them I am making the RSS L84 work.I see that RRS now has a link to lens plate for 100-400 ii
Beware that this is a "make-do" lens plate until custom made one becomes available.
This is the same "lens plate" (the MPR-113 Rail) recommended to me when I first called RRS and posted this topic.
If a "make-do" lens plate is OK with you, it should "make do". We must all wait for custom make version.
RRS now shows pre-order for foot replacement for the 100-400 II. Called LCF-54 for $100. See http://www.reallyrightstuff.com/Shop/EF-100-400mm-f-4-5-5-6L-IS-II-USM/
I'll post a dissenting opinion.Yes, the 24mm TS-E, which was the main reason. In the end I felt the focusing in auto was off a little and the metering as well. I did end up getting the Hoodman 3.2 for live view focusing and also it is great for easier viewing of images. For me this was a lot better than the screen.
I've purchased just about every screen available for the 5D2. I have tried precision matte screens, split focus, the original, microprism and a few others. The prices varied from $15 to $200.
The short version is that none allowed my to achieve critical focus with my Zeiss ZE lenses.
I then tried a Zacuto Z-finder Pro loupe and mounted it to the lcd on a clip-on frame (pn Z-FRM or Z-FRM32 depending on your camera.) I can nail critical focus almost every time. Yes, it's a little unwieldy but the camera is pressed against your eye and it's stable. The second issue is that this goes through batteries, so you need a few in your pocket. It does however work.
Another +1. I recently sold my 5D Mk III and bought a 1D X at the new lower prices and am 100% satisfied and feel with the pluses it has over the 5D Mk III that it is a lot better than it might look as far as the features go in real life useability, and better focusing.+1I recently sold all my Canon gear with the exception of my 70-200 2.8. I was hoping to downgrade some of it since I am trying to cut back to more of a hobby rather than pursue photography professionally. I just do not have the time in my life so I got a chance to get all my money I paid for my gear and even made a little. The question is I still need a body and a mid zoom like 24-70 2.8 II and a prime. I just am torn if I should wait a few weeks or take advantage of the 1dx rebates and grab a 1dx now and the 24-70 and wait for the rest till the announcement. Either way I plan on saving some for a nice vacation with the family. Any help would be appreciated.I'd go for the 1D X and 24-70 II while the getting is good. They're selling for insanely good prices compared to what most of us paid and unless you need lots of pixels or a smaller camera, I don't think you'll find a better camera than the 1D X. As for primes, that's a personal one, but the rebates are good on them as well.
Very valid point, but I would like to say that if you are faced with both situations and only have the budget for one set of grads, the soft grads will (IMHO) work better on water than the hard grads on the rolling hills with forest scenario.
Cheers, Graham.Re: Soft vs. Hard grads - It depends on your scenery. Water: abrupt flat transition from sky to earth = hard grad.
Rolling hills with forest: irregular transition from sky to earth = soft grad. I have the second case, here in the middle of the continent.