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Messages - Mt Spokane Photography

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1
EOS Bodies / Re: Big Announcements Coming Next Week [CR3]
« on: January 26, 2015, 07:18:15 PM »
Interesting, but I'm in doubt about my need for a high MP camera.  A camera needs to have a attractive set of features before I upgrade.

2
Canon General / Re: Photographer Petitions Canon for Left Handed Camera
« on: January 26, 2015, 01:29:45 PM »
It probably won't happen since they would have to redesign the manufacturing process to so it, and there likely isn't enough of a market for it to be worthwhile.

Its not as simple as manufacturing, since almost every one of the 100 more or less sub assemblies would be affected, service stations and spare parts would need to be stocked, the cost would be huge.  I also think a adapter would be the answer.

3
Third Party Manufacturers / Re: One single reason to never buy Nikon DSLR
« on: January 26, 2015, 12:08:01 PM »
I have never had a issue with that 10 pin connector.  However, a cheap third party connector from China could be way out of tolerance.  I still have one in my studio, but no longer have the camera.
 
I've also had some junk 3rd party accessories for my Canon cameras, many of the 3 pin cables are crap.

4
Canon General / Re: Photographer Petitions Canon for Left Handed Camera
« on: January 26, 2015, 12:00:21 PM »
Before I retired, I was asked if I knew where I could find a left handed phone for Bill Gates, or even someone who would build one for him.  One of his employees has contacted my company thinking that we might know, and I had dealings with many electronics companies around the world. Yes, THE Bill Gates.  I'm left handed but since I only have hearing in my left ear, I use a Right Handed one and had never considered a left handed one.  This was in the early 1990's before cell phones became popular.  Cell phones were Analog then and were not secure.
 
I have no issue with a right handed camera, and I shoot my hunting rifle right handed, but my pistol I use left handed.  I can hit a baseball left or right handed, but prefer to bat left handed, and cannot throw a ball with my right hand. 
 
Its easy for me to understand that there are different degrees of left handedness, so some might have a real issue, and its nothing to laugh at even if its not a problem for me.

5
Lenses / Re: Auto Focus MicroAdjust--Why the Stigma?
« on: January 25, 2015, 08:59:41 PM »
I'm not sure I follow this thread.  I think perhaps the word "stigma" is being used incorrectly in the title.  When I think of AFMA I think of there being a lot of confusion out there about what it is and how it works, even though it's pretty straightforward IMO.

I've also never seen a thread where somebody claimed to send the lens back to Canon for AFMA.  I'm not saying it hasn't happened, $20 says it has - I've just personally never seen somebody claim to do so on a forum.


Many send their lenses and bodies to Canon to have them adjusted.  Canon does not do a AFMA, they adjust the lens and the body if required.  Its expensive.
 
Some do take their lens and body to a Camera Repair service which does not have the ability to make the internal adjustments, but will do a AFMA for $60 more or less.

6
Sports / Re: Motion Blur (on purpose) in Sports Photos
« on: January 24, 2015, 11:49:19 PM »
occasionally it works for me to view as long as  its subtle and functional.  Its really difficult to do, I've only seen a very few images that impressed me, and I am a total failure at producing anything I like.  A lot of it is personal opinion and preference.
 
Sometimes, like last week, there was not enough light, so I had a shutter speed that was not fast enough.   However, I was not trying to show a blur
 

 
 
 

 
 

7
Lenses / Re: Upgrading lenses for college student
« on: January 24, 2015, 11:28:02 PM »
I have the 17-40 and since you will be using it for landscapes the f4 won't be an issue.  I use mine all the time.  It's a great lens.  The 16-35 f4 is is supposed to be even better overall.

Check out a site like photozone to compare lens performance.  The 18-55mm IS and the STM models have outstanding performance on a crop, better than the 17-40.  The 17-40 fares better on FF than crop.
 
So, you can do extremely well with a low cost lens.
 
If you want f/2.8, a 17-55mm EF-s is extremely good, and used prices match the 17-40.  But notice, the 18-55mm IS is sharper, and at the edges, its amazing.!
 



8
The fact is that bodies also have a tolerance, so AFMA can be due to a body, but is likely a combination of lens and body tolerances, you are compensating for both.
 
Different camera models, particularly crop and FF will show a much wider difference with as given lens because a AFMA point is equal to 1/8 of the depth of focus.  That means that it is different for each lens and on different sized sensors as well as body tolerances. 
 
 
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Photography-Tips/AF-Microadjustment-Tips.aspx

9
EOS Bodies / Re: Buying second hand, avoid low shutter count.
« on: January 24, 2015, 10:58:36 PM »
Thanks for the overall feedback.

I agree this is a long way from an ideal study.  If I had wanted to publish in a journal I would of course have raised the bar significantly...  but this is a forum.


Since you made it a point to state that you had engineering expertise, you raised that bar by implying it would withstand engineering scrutiny, but, IMHO, it doesn't.  As a licensed registered professional engineer, I found that comment to reflect poorly on the engineering profession.
 
There are many reasons for camera failures, and shutters are only one of them.  I suspect, but have no actual numbers that the average consumer camera has well under 15,000 shutter cycles, I've bought two dozen and none of them had nearly that many when I later checked them, and none failed.  Without accurate numbers and information about the camera population, its impossible to put the data into perspective.  If, as I expect, 90+ % of the cameras of a given model have under 15000 actuations, then the numbers do not make sense.  We don't know.
 
Reliability does indeed involve infant mortality where failures happen more frequently after a new product is put into service.  Usually, electronics is the most affected, but mechanical items suffer from the same issue.
 
Heat is the big reason driving failures, but cold can be bad as well.  The thermal expansion / Contraction can literally tear things apart in short order.  Product wearout usually happens after a long period of use.  Obviously, vibration and shock can also destroy a item, but heat is a killer.  A camera that is left in a hot car can have its life shortened considerably.
 
Then, there is the sensor.  They tend to get more hot pixels over time, so a older one will suffer.  There is no information about newer sensor designs, so hopefully, that issue is being reduced.
 
When buying used, I would have no concern about a camera 6 months old with a few hundred cycles, because the electronics has been burned in, and any mechanical issues should have been found.  The one area where there would be no information is exposure to high temperatures as found in a car on a hot summer day.

10
Lenses / Re: Upgrading lenses for college student
« on: January 24, 2015, 02:25:14 PM »
Finding a supurb lens on a budget can be tough.  The 28-105mm is one of those, the 80-200 is not.  I've found all of the lenses used that I mention below for $125 or less (Mostly Less).
 
Upgrading the original 18-55mm lens to the newer 18-55mm IS version is a big upgrade for little cost.
 
If you can find one of the older 70-210mm f/4 lenses, they can be a good deal.
 
I have a Tokina 17mm f/3.5 prime that I bought on the cheap, and found it to be excellent.
 
If you are willing to manual focus, there are a number of Olympus, Nikon, Pentax, etc lenses that can be adapted with good results.
 
28-XX mm is not a good focal length range for a crop body, so I'd recommend passing it up.
 
 

11
Lenses / Re: Inconsistent reviewing of lenses
« on: January 24, 2015, 02:15:35 PM »
I typically look for trends, but generally trust the sharpness maps of SLRGear and the detailed testing of LensTip and DxO.  I also find that no one tests color and contrast, which are very important to me as well.  When I did brick wall tests of the 24-70 I & II and 16-35 f/2.8 II & 16-35 f/4 IS, those two were huge improvements.

Ultimately, I try out the lens as some lenses like the controversial 50L suck at testing, but excel at portraits.  Same goes with the 180L macro.  A German site shows it as the sharpest lens they have tested, but everyone else shows it as decent.  My copy is very good, but not my sharpest lens.  It has the best color and contrast of any lens I own, however.

While lens tip does good testing, I'm uneasy about someone testing lenses supplied by the manufacturer.  Its a really big temptation for a manufacturer to give out a lens that is at the high end of the production range.  They have automated test equipment that can record test results as lenses move down the production line, and have a minimum acceptable MTF, but there are some where everything comes together just right and gives higher values.
 
BTW, everyone measures MTF, which is a test for contrast.

12
EOS Bodies / Re: 50mp Cameras Coming in March [CR1]
« on: January 24, 2015, 02:04:53 PM »
Explanation please? What is a low pass filter in this context? What is it for and if it's necessary, why build a camera without one? Is it the same as an anti-aliasing filter (another term I don't understand...)

A low pass filter is often used as a anti-aliasing filter.  Its the simplest.
 
A low pass filter allows lower light frequencies to go thru, but blocks higher ones.  Kinda like a UV filter that blocks UV light.
 
The high frequencies cause MoirĂ© in the final image which is difficult to eliminate.  As pixel count increases, the need for a optical low pass filter is reduced.
 
A low pass filter can be done in the electronics or optically, but its typically done both optically and electronically.  We are talking elimination of the optical low pass filter, not the electronic one.
 
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anti-aliasing_filter
 
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nyquist_frequency
 
Several years ago, Panasonic produced a video called Demystifying Digital Cinema Camera Specifications
 
It covers many common questions and is reasonably easy to understand.
 
There are seven parts, and its worth while to view them all.  It gives you a appreciation for the compromises that go into designing digital cameras, and explains why no one system is the best at everything.
 
The link is to part one, its easy to find all seven parts.
 
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gqq8QKMmtYg

13
EOS Bodies / Re: Purchase 5DIII now, or wait for 5DIV?
« on: January 23, 2015, 03:07:25 PM »
Folks keep asking the question.  The answer is "Do not Make Purchasing Decisions Based on Rumors"  A exception might be a CR III rumor with photos of the product.  Rumors are not reliable in general, they are great for discussion, but don't take them too seriously.
 
Some have been waiting thru 7 years worth of rumors to get a 100-400mm MK II.
 
http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=24709.msg485936#msg485936
 
http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=17409.msg322719#msg322719

Thank you for the links.  I did search briefly before posting but didn't find those.

As far as my questioning, everyone has good solid answers, both here and those other links.  And, if it was purely based on rumors, I wouldn't have even posted.  But when you look at the timetable of body releases, the rumors and what the market is doing, it seems like the 5DIV should be dropping very soon.  But then again, I don't have the ability dig in and find out whats going on at the electronics shows, and what-not, like some of you may. 

When I got the 6D last year, it was the same sort of deal that B&H has right now for the 5DIII.  I still feel like I got a good deal, but after shooting with the 6D for a year, I really wish I had just invested in the extra grand and purchased the 5DIII instead.  Then, right now, I'd be looking at $3-4K on some really nice glass instead of another body.  I really don't want to be in this position again next year, but as my yearly budget for camera gear isn't bottomless, if they bump the sensor up to around 30mp, improve high ISO noise and increase FPS on the 5DIV, I know I'll be a big ole sucker and have to have it instead of lenses for another year.   :o  I know there's always going to be a better camera around the corner, but if it drops in 3 to 6 months after I purchase the 5DIII, I'm going to feel really burned.

@tphillips63, I know to many people that would be a good option, but I'm one of the unluckiest people around.  Used or grey market, I'd get it and something would go wrong.  Then I'd really be bummed.

If I can suggest something.
 
Make a plan.  Decide what type of photos you take, what focal lengths you use, and what it is that is holding you back.  Also decide the urgency of your gear needs.
 
I have a 5D MK III, and had the MK II, the MK 1, several 1 series, and many of the APS C.  I've also had DSLRS from Nikon and Minolta.  My Nikon D800 was fine, but the high MP slowed down processing a lot, particularly noise reduction, so its not a general purpose body, but more for studio or landscape with a tripod.  All are just tools, and, while I like fine tools, I could do pretty well with any of  them except when it comes to high ISO shooting.
 
I used my 5D MK 1 as a backup to my MK III last week, and actually found that I preferred the look and colors better than my 5D MK III.  Unfortunately, ISO 3200 was not really enough, since I needed a higher shutter speed, so a lot of photos were blurred due to motion of the performer.
 
I'd be happy with a 6D, I don't go for using high FPS, but rather resort to timing, its really not that difficult.  I've done 10 FPS, and I don't like wading thru hundreds of photos to find the one I would have taken with a 1 shot setting. 
 
So, decide what you actually need to reach your goals, and then purchase the items 1 at a time, or as a group. 
 
You can get a pretty good price on a 5D MK III thru Canon Price Watch ($2399).  Its from a authorized dealer, with full warranty.  It may be a better deal than the one from B&H.
 
As for prices, its a matter of global economics, and demand coming together to create a buyers market.  The US dollar is strong, which means it will go further on imports.  This plus slow sales overall continues to push prices down.  This also means there is little incentive for Canon to introduce a $4,000 1D Mark IV and see few sales.  They can cut prices on the MK III and make more money.
 
The one area where they need to act fast is in the mirrorless segment, they can easily see that they are missing out in getting a share of those sales.  Expect a mirrorless camera to arrive soon, and it just may be FF.  Also expect a new series of lenses for the mirrorless.  That's one area that might be worth looking at before you buy.
 
 

14
The internet is taking its toll on all print media.  They are cutting costs to try and keep afloat.  The printed media industry, just like the audio recording industry is sinking, and need to make some bigger changes than merely laying off staff.
 
Trying to sell digital editions which cost much less to distribute but asking the same or even a higher price is a sure way to go out of business.  IMHO, they should have a plan to convert the public to digital media by offering it at low prices, while phasing out the print side.  The accountant types who run many such industries just can't seem to understand or cope with what's happening.
 
One day, they will wake up and find that someone else has jumped into the void.  I wouldn't be surprised if it was Amazon.

15
It might be a worthwhile upgrade once images get large enough for it to make a difference.  It would be for displaying images, so its very useful for video where images need to be displayed very quickly.  For stills, I'm not sure if 1/2  sec or 1/20 sec to render a image makes a big difference to my post processing, software like Lightroom pre-renders the images, so they display in a eyeblink most of the time.  It takes 1/2 sec or less to display them.

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