December 18, 2014, 07:38:36 PM

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Messages - Mt Spokane Photography

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1
I must be out of the loop. Are there rechargeable 1.5V lithium AAs? Maybe one of the problems Canon is fighting is people accidentally using the 3.7V lithium batteries which are similar to AA batteries.

I did not see anything about rechargeable.  the Lithium batteries can be used by adding two dummy batteries so that they provide about the same voltage to the flash.  They store more power, and last longer.  Canon is merely saying that some of them overheat due to the high current a flash uses.  Its not likely to be a issue unless you are really using the flash heavily.
 
It has nothing to do with external battery units or Eneloop or li-on.

2
I intended to compare mine with my old 100-400, which was very good, but it sold yesterday, and is in the mail this morning.
 
The new one is very sharp, and like my old one, requires no AFMA.  I'm happy with it, but mostly for the better IS and the faster AF. I'm sure its sharper, but not much.  The person who bought my old one should be very happy with it.  Not all of the version one lenses were sharp, some were off enough to be readily apparent.  I happened to get a good one.  I've also heard of 500's that were not perfect.  My 600mm f/4 non is was very good, but the newer lenses are definitely better.
 
 

3
I've been using Eneloops in my Speedlites (And Nikon units) for years without problems

of course, they are NOT lithium batteries, so what's your point?

4
I see that export to photoshop is now working in version 4.1.50, but I do not see the batch conversion ability to convert a whole folder of raw images. 

In folder view click "edit" - "select all" go to File-- batch process

Thanks.  I used to use that batch process, and thought it should be there somewhere.  The previous version of DPP would not export to photoshop cc, it wanted a 32bit version, even though it was supposed to be 64 bit.   Photoshop has been updated, so I don't know who fixed it, but it works finally.

5
Be wary of the hype.  You don't always hear about the shortcomings that make owning and using a camera pleasant.
 
I bought a D800 along with some high end Nikon lenses.  I tethered my 5D MK II using live view while attached to my pc a lot, but its a bad joke with Nikon cameras.  Manual focusing is difficult due to the delayed response, and the image resolution is so poor as to make manual focus using tethering to a 24 inch monitor useless. Then, to make matters worse, you have to pay a big price for software that Canon provides free.  My 24-70 f/2.8G had excessive CA's at the edges, LR could not remove it all. (I later found out this is normal).
 
If you are thinking of using a D800E as a wedding camera, skip it.  The moiré  can be horrible for lace dresses and pin stripe suits.  I haven't seen many reports about the D810 yet, but it is apparently better in that regard.
 
On the other hand, A D800E (D810) is great when used for landscape where high resolution is very desirable.  Its good for most general outdoor use.  You will need to learn to be very careful in order to get all the resolution possible, just persist and learn. Casual photographers who just want to point and shoot often sell their camera out of frustration.

6
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Just picked up a 7D
« on: Today at 12:03:51 AM »
I'd only purchase L lenses where there is no high quality crop lens available.  This usually means telephoto lenses.
 
 
A 17-55mm IS, or a 15-85mm IS make good general purpose lenses, a 28-135mm lens on a 7D makes no sense at all for a general purpose lens.  I'm glad Canon stopped selling those with the new 7d MK II.  I've has many of the 18-135mm lenses over the years that came with crop bodies as kit lenses.  I sold them all for more than my cost, and used the proceeds to buy a lens of a proper focal length.
 
I'm not saying that L lenses don't work well on crop bodies, just that you are not getting the benefits from spending all that money.  A 24-70mm f/2.8L is a wonderful lens, but is not the right choice of focal length where a 15-85mm or a 17-55mm is just right.
 
if you want wide angle, something like a EF-s 10-22mm is a good choice.
 
Pair a 15-85mm with a 70-300mmL and you have great coverage for outdoor use.  Then a prime in the 28-35mm range will give you a good low light normal focal length capability.

7
" I use the center point 99% of the time anyway"

Whenever I see this, sigh and click away.

"I use my hand anyway so who needs a wife!"

You don't know what you miss till you try it out.

I'm the same as him.  I have used tracking and alternate focus points on my 5D MK III extensively, wanting it to help, but found its not needed for my work, just like I don't need 10 fps to get a good shot.  I have no issue with those who enjoy using those features, but they do not benefit everyone.  I probably find 1 in 100 shots where a off center point would help, but I use a long focal length, and can recompose with no issue on focus accuracy for those few shots.
 
 
 

8
EOS Bodies / Re: High Megapixel Camera Coming in 2015 [CR3]
« on: December 17, 2014, 11:31:34 PM »
Having bought a D800 and some pro level Nikon Glass, my big issues were post processing high ISO images.  It was taking a minute for Lightroom to run the NR on a image, and that was a modern i7 pc at the time.
 
I've upgraded computers twice since, and those old D800 images process reasonably fast now.  However, I still am uncertain about having to process 2500 images.
 
The big Use I get out of high MP images is the ability to crop, but that's only if they are pixel sharp, and the Nikon images were very noisy when severely cropped, while I can crop my 5D MK III without that concern.
 
Still, if there is a high ISO improvement, and dual pixel technology, I'll be very interested, and will likely pre-order, if only just to get a place in line.
 
If the 1D X drops a bunch in price, I'll jump and buy a used one.

9
EOS Bodies / Re: High Megapixel Camera Coming in 2015 [CR3]
« on: December 17, 2014, 07:55:28 PM »
When does diffraction kick in on a 50mp 35mm sensor?! How would this be good for landscapes or studio shots where you stop down? Wouldn't scaling up a lower mp shot probably look the same?

http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/diffraction-photography.htm

Good read, thank you Mt. Spokane.  That's a level of nerdy I can cope with.

That site also has a nice intro to ND Grads section that I've used. 

- A

Just to warn you, some of the information on that page is misleading and/or wrong.

Enlighten us!  I'm always willing to learn something new, as long as it isn't arguing over word meanings.

10
Canon EF Zoom Lenses / Re: Canon 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L Mark II
« on: December 17, 2014, 07:19:14 PM »
I decided I was going to try close focusing, so I trained the lens on a Christmas Catcus on our kitchen table about 3 ft away.  Even with the 5 light bulbs immediately above it, the ISO at f/8 and 1/320 sec was 6400.  Then, when I put the 1.4X TC on, I was at 12800 - 25600, far too much noise to see the delicate structure of the flower.
 
So, I backed the shutter speed down to 1/100 and f/8 which gave me a 6400 ISO, more than I wanted.  My flash was out in my studio, so I just went with that.  I do sharpen and adjust images to my taste.
 
I remembered that I have a tiny flash for my G1X II, so I'll try it next.
 
This is a moderate crop.  Even at mfd, AF seems fast.  I used AF and it seems quite accurate at MFD and with the TC.  That's nice.
 

11
EOS Bodies / Re: High Megapixel Camera Coming in 2015 [CR3]
« on: December 17, 2014, 06:24:11 PM »
When does diffraction kick in on a 50mp 35mm sensor?! How would this be good for landscapes or studio shots where you stop down? Wouldn't scaling up a lower mp shot probably look the same?

http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/diffraction-photography.htm

12
Canon EF Zoom Lenses / Re: Canon 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L Mark II
« on: December 17, 2014, 04:47:51 PM »
This looks very good! I´m looking forward to see more of your images and hearing more of your experiences with it.

I don´t need this lens, but it is very tempting as a light travel companion. My threshold for carrying the 200-400 is there, when weight and volume is an issue. But this lens mounted on the 7DII will be quite potent for some of the things I do. I never liked the MkI, but this one looks better and it is clearly very sharp in the centre.

I loved the mark 1, but the IS on this one is very good.  IQ is better as well, but its mostly AF speed and IS that seemed better to me.
 
I'd like to put them side by side and compare, but my hands are extremely sensitive to the cold.  It comes with old age and poor circulation.
 
I had a Nikon 200-400 f/4G last year.  It was too big to carry around, and I needed a gimbal except for quick snapshots.  It was nowhere as sharp as this lens.

13
Business of Photography/Videography / Re: Update on SmugMug
« on: December 17, 2014, 04:38:56 PM »
I've been using smug for 3+ years.  Moving to the new version was painless.  However, I'm not a power user, I have only a few hundred photos on it.

14
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Possibly ok after dropped?
« on: December 17, 2014, 02:31:25 PM »
Hi pedant.
Good for a laugh, but these RTV sealants give off a real cocktail of fumes, mostly solvent, would probably dissolve some crucial plastic internal gear!

Cheers, Graham.

it's possible that your camera will soon develop some issues from the shock, but then again, it's possible that it will be fine.

hey, just a thought... you could use some black silicone sealant on there to block light and water. functionally, it would be as good as new if the chassis is truly the only thing that got damaged.



look for black 'RTV' sealant in a big hardware store like home depot or perhaps an auto parts store.
(possibly first take some ~400-600 grit sandpaper if some of the paint is peeling off around the damaged area)

a slightly ugly fix, and there will be the looming timebomb feeling. it's hard to say that there is not an increased risk of sudden failure from that drop.  but if you have a second camera that could work in a pinch on a job, this could be a suitable fix if you want to save your insurance for the next time some drunk guy bumps into you.

but yeah, if you want to use your personal insurance on this but need to keep using the camera to finish up your current jobs, you could apply the fix if you think you might be shooting out in the rain or something.

you could also just put a piece of duct tape on there... better than nothing.

I destroyed the sensor on my scanner just by cleaning the glass with windex.  The ammonia fumes did not like the sensor.  I'd stay away from this type of fix that might totally ruin the camera.

15
I see that export to photoshop is now working in version 4.1.50, but I do not see the batch conversion ability to convert a whole folder of raw images.  I did not see a way to send images to lightroom either, but I just might not be seeing the option.

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