August 27, 2014, 05:27:48 PM

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - Mt Spokane Photography

Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 ... 548
16
Photography Technique / Re: Is RAW worth it?
« on: August 25, 2014, 04:24:30 PM »
I look back at some of my very first photos with the 40D and wished they were in raw.  Didn't even have software back then.  Now all bodies are set for raw.  Even the lowly G10.

Thankfully I went to RAW on my 40D almost straight away. Good thing I listened to the colleague who inspired me to take up photography.

I used jpeg on my original Rebel, 30D and 40D, and a ton of early digital cameras.  Then on my 5D MK II, and on my 40D I started using raw.  Those old images are now forever burned in and any re-edits don't help much.  I have re-edited some of my old raw images with newer software and see a noticible improvement.  I get a 1/2 - 1 stop improvement in noise on old high ISO 7D and 5D MK II images.

17
Software & Accessories / Re: Jpeg image sizes?
« on: August 25, 2014, 04:13:27 PM »
I can give you some lightroom values for comparison.

With my D800, a raw nef image was 51.2MB

Exported to jpeg at 100 it became 21.8mb

Exported to jpeg At 75 it became 5.48MB

Exported to jpeg At 50 it became 2.58MB


18
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: 5DIII dual cards
« on: August 25, 2014, 03:50:39 PM »

Does anybody know whether it is possible to set up the camera to delete the same image from both cards at the same time?

No, its not possible.  That makes it harder to accidentally delete your photos, you have to work at it.

I save jpegs to SD and RAW to CF.  Since both are 64GB, I seldom have to erase the SD card because jpeg files are much smaller.

19
EOS Bodies / Re: Do Sensors Make the Camera?
« on: August 25, 2014, 03:47:26 PM »
@dilbert & can0nfan2379. Thank you both but it is precisely responses like this regarding the sensors that I find least helpful and harder to logically implement into purchasing decisions. For the longest time now, Canon's have been the DLSR of choice for a large proportion of the astro/night sky crowd because Canon's  CR2s are not "cooked" by the sensor pipeline. It would seem that if your sensor is so darn good why do you need to manipulate the signal coming off it to the extent that it cancels out stars in the night sky. It is no secret that Sony's "raw" files are cooked.
So is this talk about Canon's sensors not being any good the result of some laboratory measurements or is it photography which is about seeing and that includes the finished print whether its on a wall or a page (but please, not on a computer screen, people).
So, please, Dilbert, what in the real world are you referring to when you criticize the Canon sensors?
And thank you again.

Best to not feed TROLLS.

20
i have yet to know a dealer that knows more than the average joe about future canon products.

they may plan such an event but im pretty sure he doesn´t know what´s coming from canon. if there is no new lens they just use the old for the try out....

Quote
A local dealer mentioned he would organize a try-out weekend by the end of the year for the new lenses and forgot to stop telling then. He mentioned 2 lenses being the 100-400 and a 28-300

The big stores get advance notice.  That's why they go live with pre-order pages on announcement day.  Of course, not everyone knows.  My salesman is tight lipped when I ask him, he just says wait until (date), so he knows when it will be for sale.

21
EOS Bodies / Re: Do Sensors Make the Camera?
« on: August 25, 2014, 01:47:29 PM »
There are high paid photographers using all the main brands of camera.  Its the photographer 99%, the camera 1%.

22
I want the ultimate set up for nighttime athletics (etc.)
Currently have a D6 and 70-200 2.8 mk2 and then just crop like heck in DxO9

Options:
1. Buy a 200-400 with 1.4 tele (but it weighs as much as a gallon of milk, is expensive and then miss shots when the ball comes to this side of the field)
2. Add the 2x tele mk3 but lose some f-stop and sharpness and also lose the close shots
3. Buy a crop sensor body or use the T5i or EOS M I already have with the 70-200 and use the Canon 6D with Sigma 24-105 Art lens.

Will a good crop sensor (like on the 70D) have just as much sharpness and resolution as the full sized sensor on the 6D, or do you lose resolution because the lens can't handle the resolution, or the sensor isn't as good as the 6D even though they have managed to squeeze just as many pixels on the APS-C as on the full-sized 6D sensor?

Here's what I'm talking about.. The winning goal in overtime the other night (Baylor vs Rice) from about 60 yards away, after being cropped in DxO9. Shot with 6D and ef 70-200 f/2.8 mk2 at f/6.3 1/320 ISO 12800. (Yes, I know f/6.3 was a poor choice, should have gone with f/4.5, my bad).

I want the best, but don't want to spend $11k if I will have just as many challengess as I've got now.

You think the price of the 200-400 1.4 will continue to drop?

The ultimate setup for low light sports is a D1X and 400mm f/2.8.  the 200-400 is good for daytime use.

None of the options you descripe approach a ultimate setup.  A zoom isn't always necessary, but having enough light to turn up the shutter speed to at least 1/1000 sec is optimal to get sharp images of moving players.

23
I purchased a redged monopod after looking at all of them.  I'm monopod poor, its my 3rd one, and the only one I use.  I use it with my 5D MK III.  It does not have flip locks, it does not need them, since just barely tightening the rotating locks is enough.  With one hand, I can open it, its really the nicest low cost one I have,  Yes, I have a Manfrotto with Flip locks, Its a old battleship model, it will rake anything, but its also heavy.

I paid $75 for it.  Amazon no longer carries it, I guess they are slow sellers?  Redged is not a household name in the USA.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004ASAPIU/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1

25
Software & Accessories / Re: Canon brand UV and Circ. Polarizing filters
« on: August 23, 2014, 10:47:28 PM »
I bought a Canon UV filter several years ago for my 17-55mm lens.  I saw no issues, and used it for 3 or 4 years before selling it.  The filter did what I wanted, there was no dust in the lens even after all that time.
 
I've bought B+W or Helicon since then, but I seldom use them for most of my shots.

26
PowerShot / Re: New Large Sensor PowerShot Rumor [CR2]
« on: August 23, 2014, 10:35:13 PM »
I think (but I am not sure...going from memory here) that the S95 is CCD and the S100 on up are CMOS.

I think that's true.  Canon is moving to CMOS on all their higher end point and shoots. 

27
PowerShot / Re: New Large Sensor PowerShot Rumor [CR2]
« on: August 23, 2014, 05:34:51 PM »
I wonder where they will source the sensor.  Panasonic is using Sony's sensor so Canon does have access to it.  They could also source it from Aptina or Sharp.

Many, if not most of the
Powershots use Sony CCD sensors and Sony LCD's too.  Once they are switched to cmos sensors, Canon seems to make there own.  Canon produces cameras in a very large volume, and a few cents per sensor makes a big difference over a million units.  If they can make them for less than buying, they will.   

28
Technical Support / Re: Best way to test gear (notably lenses)?
« on: August 22, 2014, 11:27:52 PM »
Testing lenses is a minefield.
 
First of all, they usually focus differently at different distances, testing at a distance of 50X focal length usually, but not always works best.  Its a good idea to test at three or more different distances to see if its a serious issue.
 
If you can use some flat surface like a brick wall, and make certain you are perpendicular to it, the results can reveal some things like a decentered lens element.  The image will be out of focus on one edge while the opposite edge is sharp.  Rotate the camera and if the oof edge follows the rotation, you have found a issue.  Using star charts can find the issue as well.
 
I like and use FoCal, but it requires a careful setup, and paying attention to factors that affect your results.  Its good to understand those factors that affect the AF system since they apply to normal shooting.
 
As others have noted, Lens Rentals tests all of their lenses as they come back into stock, and they have learned to make adjustments to many of them.  They keep teasing a service for individuals who want their lens tested.  However, they are not going to adjust a lens, just test it.
 
I think that their business is growing so fast that they will not have the capacity to do this.
 
Canon has a superb facility, and the software to detect lens issues and fix them, but its time consuming and expensive.  They do not give you before and after results, and only adjust a lens to be in spec, they do not adjust it to be as good as possible.  Some lenses will never be extremely sharp due to the glass manufacturing tolerances, so some are better than others.  This is a result of the state of the art.  The tolerances involver are far beyond the capability of direct measuring equipment, so indirect methods must be used, and, in the final analysis, the expensive big whites have lens groups selected and graded to get a near perfect match.
 
Then, there is the lens mounts, which can bend slightly, and the body.  Sensors must be adjusted to align perfectly with a lens mount, and be the correct distance away.
 
I happened across a factory service manual for my old 5D classic, it has the methods and specs for aligning the critical items in the body.  Shims are used to tweak things.

29
Lenses / Re: Rubber covering loose on zoom of 24-70 II - advice?
« on: August 22, 2014, 10:37:40 PM »
Lens Rumors listed this as one of the issues.  Its very easy to replace, its just a big rubber band.  I put a long slim screwdriver under one, stretch it out, and then pull it off.  The new one can be stretched and pulled on like a rubber band.
 
The issue is defective rubber, its losing its strength and will continue to sag.
 
  Call Canon and ask them to send you one.  Have your serial number ready.

30
Focus and recompose.  This will result in backfocus and is quick.    Probably not as easy to calibrate as AFMA, but no fooling around to adjust it back to normal.

Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 ... 548