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Messages - Mt Spokane Photography

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Software & Accessories / Re: DxO OpticsPro 10 released
« on: October 29, 2014, 09:41:55 PM »
The issue I had with version 9.5 was the extreme slow exporting to jpeg ot to lightroom.  The lack of a export to Smugmug was also a factor.
I'll try ver 10.
I presume that ver 9 will not be upgraded to work with new camera models?

I have a MANFROTTO 190xPROB and a 496RC2 , solid gear no PLAY , looking for a VIDEO head for possible that POD and or  just another  Tripod and head. Seen a  Combo Movie / photo head from Manfrotto a review  shows the arm and Head with some  PLAY and other fall downs overtime, just want smooth transitions and Ease in ease out pans/tilts seems like a full on HEAD is in order. (budget 500ish CND)

Any suggestions are welcome , thank you guys.

I doubt if you really mean  "The Best" unless you have $15,000 or $20,000 to spend.  You can usually do pretty well for $5,000.  Otherwise, you are going to have to deal with increasingly jerky pans as the quality of the head drops.  For a low end but professional level head, the $1500 Manfrotto 526 is reasonably good, but you need a bowl type tripod to go with it, so its still way out of your price range.
In your price range, a Manfrotto 504 HD head is the best for under $500.  http://www.manfrotto.us/504hd-pro-fluid-video-head-75 , but you still need a tripod to match.
If you are not actually doing video for a living, get the best you can afford, and just live with jerky pans.  Otherwise, consider renting a suitable tripod / head.
Sorry for the bad news, but when mentioning the "Best", its totally out of reach for most of us.  I have a $200 502 HD video Manfrotto head with flat base, and live with the jerky pans.

Software & Accessories / Re: BlackRapid FAIL - grrrrrr
« on: October 29, 2014, 07:41:49 PM »
I haven't seen a issue, and mine does not loosen.  Even if it did loosen, it takes several complete turns of the threads to disconnect, and if it fell off "moments" after securing it, its hard to imagine it turning that many times.
I do check mine visually as well as making sure its tight, since a cross thread can tighten a screw with only a partial turn, and it will easily separate. 
The weakness in the system comes when users must repeatedly screw the attach point into their camera or lens base, and it just takes one cross thread when you feel it tighten to cause the issue.
It would be nice if everything were foolproof, but, as they say, fools are just too ingenious.  (Not talking about the OP).

Lenstip has reviewed the Sigma 150-600 S.

Be aware that they received the lens they tested from Sigma.  To me, receiving a test lens from the lens manufacturer means that:
1.  The lens has probably already been tested by the manufacturer, and selected as being one that is the best possible. 
2.  You will never be able to get one as good as the one tested thru a store.
3.  Its also implied that a poor review means no more free lenses to test, so there is pressure applied to go easy on any flaws.  Even DXO does not take manufacturer supplied equipment, but purchases or rents the test items, and usually they test multiple items.
Those may or may not be true, but should be considered when reading the review.  Independent review sites do not take freebies from the manufacturer of the product that they are reviewing.  Its like a Automobile Magazine that not only gets a car to test, but depends on advertising.   

EOS Bodies / Re: Modular DSLR Coming from Canon? [CR2]
« on: October 29, 2014, 12:09:25 PM »
Cinema cameras are modular, but also extremely expensive.  Each part has to be engineered with a reliable way of connecting / removing it, as well as a standardized communication channel among the electronics in each part.
While a 4 or 5 or 6K Cinema camera can take competent stills, the price tag of $60K + for a complete setup does not lend itself to still shooters.
Modular Cameras are heavy and bulky, but that is not a big issue for Cinema, they are used to large cameras.
It could have a body with sensor, external battery module, lens adapter modules (EF, PL, ect), Viewfinder, recording module, sound module, display screen, focus puller module, and a ton of stuff used for cinema.

Lenses / Re: Is this 70-200 2.8 II worth buying?
« on: October 29, 2014, 11:08:10 AM »
I paid $1600 for mine as a Canon refurb about 1-1/2 years back. 
Note that on the below price history graph, the price has dropped more and more each year starting around black Friday.  You can form your own opinion as to what will happen this year, it depends on inventory and sales, I doubt that even Canon knows how low they will go.

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: %D Mark III instead of 7D Mark II
« on: October 29, 2014, 10:56:30 AM »
I've seen new ones drop to about $2300-$2400, but they are gray market.  I paid $2750 for my 5D MK III two years ago from Adorama, so getting $2200 out of a camera I've used for two years would be great.
The selling price of a camera model starts to drop as users sense a new model is coming in 2-3 months.  Used ones may very well drop to $1800 after Christmas, depending on how low the price of new ones drops, and on peoples perception that a replacement is coming.

That 20mm f/2.8 is available as a refurb for 15% off until 10/31 or they are all sold, so its well within your price range.  Use discount code pumpkin13. 
It is heavy, but falls in your required focal length range of 20-24mm.  There are very few if any primes in this range with autofocus and low cost/ low weight. 
Focal Length & Maximum Aperture20mm 1:2.8
Lens Construction11 elements in 9 groups
Diagonal Angle of View94°
Focus AdjustmentRear focusing system with USM
Closest Focusing Distance0.25m / 0.8 ft.
Filter Size72mm
Max. Diameter x Length, Weight3.1" x 2.8", 14.3 oz. / 77.5 x 70.6mm, 405g

Lenses / Re: Canon Refurb Store
« on: October 29, 2014, 10:33:59 AM »
I and many others have bought refurbished bodies and lenses with no issues.  Its rare that someone gets a bad one, but you can return it for a refund.

EOS Bodies / Re: Canon 7D Mark II Owners first thoughts
« on: October 29, 2014, 10:25:24 AM »

I am also waiting my new camera, but I guess that it takes few more weeks to get it here in Finland :( We are too far from main markets...

But I have been wondering when Adobe will launch new update for Lightroom and how to make all adjustment until that? Any experience about speed of Adobe?

DPP is a little bit limited...

Adobe will probably first release a beta version in 2-3 weeks, followed by a revision when the bugs are resolved a few weeks later.  They tend to lump multiple cameras together in a upgrade.
In the meantime, you can convert files to tiff using DPP, and then work on them in Photoshop / Lightroom, or convert to DNG.  CR2 files are tiff files with lossless compression plus some unique Canon indicators that code the camera settings so that DPP understands them, so by converting to a tiff file, you are not losing quality, just uncompressing and stripping the unique Canon data.

What's wrong with these guys??
Haven't they learned to put out a new version every year and to require a paid upgrade to the latest version in order to support a new camera model?
Adobe needs to purchase them away from Google, and ru(i)n them right :o

Software & Accessories / Re: What accessories for 7d Mkii?
« on: October 28, 2014, 10:27:14 PM »
Typically, it takes a few weeks or even a few months for most of the accessories to become available.  Even Canon accessories are often 2-3 months late in appearing.
I'd just hold off buying extras and first make sure you like the camera, I did not like my first 7D and returned it.  I have learned to be more cautious and to not buy into the hype.  If it turns out to be a really good camera, it will be easy to order one later, but I'm not expecting to get one until after they appear as refurbs a year more or less from now.
That should also let me see what is in store for new FF models.
I do not like add-on grips, I've had to remove them to eliminate droop when the body and short telephoto are tripod mounted, that's a pain.  Custom plates will not be around at first, and many may remember that the first batch of RRS plates put a nasty crease in their 5D MK III's, and Chinese third party grips failed to work properly.
You might want to get a couple of Canon Flash units, its almost a given that 3rd party flash units and wireless controllers will take a year to get their firmware working properly. 

Software & Accessories / Re: Reikan Focal updated to 1.9.9
« on: October 28, 2014, 08:36:15 PM »
In the email I received they also noted work on version 2 and said it would be available to version 1 users.

This is the first anniversary of the notes about version 2 coming.  I'd not hold back to wait, its kinda like the 100-400L.

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: 7Dii AF performance
« on: October 28, 2014, 08:31:05 PM »
According to Roger at Lensrentals the Sigma 120-300 os identifies itself as a Canon 135 f2 when attached to a Canon body. http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2012/08/canon-illumination-correction-and-third-party-lenses 

The 7Dii AF Manual lists the 135 f2 as one of the lenses that can utilize all 65 AF points as well as the centre cross type point (ie: full access to all AF functions).  That's encouraging - we'll see if it actually works in November.

You need to get the latest Adobe Reader, that fixed it for me.
I've tried using the af manual but it keeps asking for a password.  Any idea what it is?

Technical Support / Re: failing shutter on 60D
« on: October 28, 2014, 07:23:07 PM »

It was an even cheaper repair.
I brought the camera in to work today, so that I could look at the shutter under magnification...I spent my lunch removing tightly wound fine cat hair (thank you Fluffy) from around the pivot point of the shutter with precision tweezers and a scalpel. It now works to 1/8000!

Now you are a camera repair expert ;)

Before I'd try repairing the shutter, I'd purchase the Canon repair manual, assuming you can find one online.  I'd also suggest getting JIS type screwdrivers, those screws are not Phillips.  A tiny flat blade screwdriver to open the various ribbon cable connectors, tweezers and needle nose pliers.

It likely requires a bit of experience to replace the blades, so you might ruin a camera or two before getting the process down.

Actually, with the repair manual, you can take it apart and re-assemble it pretty quickly.  There are step by step instructions and photos, so its doable, but it is also very intricate, and in a camera with built-in flash, you want to make certain that capacitor is discharged, and that wiring is properly dressed when re-assembling it.

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