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Messages - Mt Spokane Photography

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EOS Bodies / Re: 7D now marked as DISCONTINUED at Amazon
« on: July 26, 2014, 11:08:40 AM »
We have previously seen reports of discontinued notices, so its not surprising that amazon is finally running out.

Canon has likely had their factory churning out the Mark II's for some time.  It takes a few months to build up a backlog big enough to send stock all around the world.

Canon must be pretty confident that sales will take off.  I plan to pass and wait for the next FF.  I expect a $1799 price, and that's too much for a crop body.  If it were under $1000, maybe.

I'm sure they aren't selling.  Note that they want you to lay out $230 for a battery grip, and $$ for a spare battery.

The Price for the body is pretty good, but I've had two 7D's and am more interested in the next FF model.

Lenses / Re: What do you do with lens cases?
« on: July 25, 2014, 05:56:55 PM »
I keep the canon cases tucked away in the original lens box.  They are valuable when it comes time to resell a lens, having them increases the resale value by more than what the pouch is worth.

Canon General / Re: canon loyalty program only for camera bodies?
« on: July 25, 2014, 05:53:55 PM »
I have heard hat you can get a lens with the refurb camera and get the discount on both.  I have not heard of anyone trading in a broken lens for a refurb, but you should ask.  Its probably less expensive to fix a lens than to get 10-20% off the refurb price.


He seemed to find it a weird thing to ask, but I work for a car dealership network and I'm quite sure that if we change some part on a car that's not under warranty anymore, we still have to provide some warranty on the part we installed (obviously not on wear, but on faults of the part or the work done)...

Anyway, lets hope the new shutter will hold longer
thanks and good night

If your camera was out of warranty and Canon charged you to repair it, then there is a warranty on the repair, I think its three months.  However, they do not extend the original warranty for free repairs.

I just checked on eBay Beststopdeals. They have sold 63070 items with a 98.6% satisfaction rating. It's not stellar, but that is not feedback indicating scammers. I also looked at the two links given by Mt Spokane for CPW. They are not on the "bait and switch list", so I don't know why it was given, and the other link is a notification that beststopdeals will replace free of charge a 60D + 24-105 deal. Again, that is not scamming indictment.
Before you accuse a seller of doing a scam, present some better facts. It looks more like a delivery mistake plus poor service than a scam.

Alan, I posted the CPW link with the phone number to call.  CPW originally listed the deals from their auctions, and were beset with e-mails from buyers getting cameras that did not match the description.  CPW pulled their recommendation, and offered a 1 year warranty to those who bought because of their recommendation, and no longer show their sales on ebay.

I also included the link to the bait and switch outfits just to indicate that CPW is pretty harsh with poor companies.

Hi Mt Spokane.
Whichever one you attack with a drill and a tap!  :o
I thought about going quick release between the tripod and head, never did it as someone told me it would introduce too much play. I had already looked in to it and the main thing is to have a QR plate that will accept a 3/8 screw to screw in to the bottom of the head, hopefully the base you are screwing on to the tripod will be 3/8 anyway.
I was thinking of this adaptor
They also do plates with 3/8 screw which would go in to the head.

Cheers Graham.

Which QR plates fit a 3/8 screw on the legs? I suppose that some MF ones do, but my clamps are 1/4 in. 

I'm just curious, I might not understand what is happening.

I have been using Kirk Clamps with a 1/4 screw.  I did not check it to see if it was a 3/8 tapped hole with a 1/4 adapter, since it is mounted to a 1/4 Manfrotto QR plate.

Lenses / Re: Exorbitant repair costs, Canon Australia
« on: July 25, 2014, 10:40:27 AM »
Labor costs are a driving factor when major changes are made to a lens.  How did you determine that the repair costs were overpriced?  Did you know how long it will take to repair it and recalibrate and adjust it?

It isn't always just a matter of taking a lens apart and putting in a new part, the lens may then have to be completely calibrated and adjusted.  If it takes 3 hours of tech time, its going to cost big.  Even if its a cheap lens, the tech does not want to take a cut in pay. 

One way to look at it is that you get a completely refurbished lens.  You also might find a independent repair shop, or even be able to ship it to Taiwan or Hong Kong for repairs and save.

In the USA, they now seem to have adopted flat fee repair prices for different levels of repair, with a minimum at $200-$300 and more, depending on the lens.  It can be disappointing to have a little used lens fail, and then get a big repair cost, that's for sure.

EOS-M / Re: Adapters + legacy lenses on the EOS M: any advice?
« on: July 25, 2014, 10:28:53 AM »
Adapting old FD or FL lenses is fine if they are free, but don't pay a overpriced amount for them.  I often find a old Camera with one for $5.00.  I have never been able to find a old FD "L" lens or any one that was valuable.

The 50mm f/1.8 is the best wide aperture lens for the $$, its just not particularly durable.

If you are going to adapt a old lens, there are some that are supposed to be pretty good from Olympus, I have almost every brand, but I don't adapt them to use, I test them and then pass them on along with a matching body to photography students or film enthusiasts.  I'm spoiled by having a bunch of "L" lenses.

People complain no matter what.  It seems to be human nature. 

If all cameras and accessories had identical features, there would be no reason to have more than one company.  Competition for sales is what drives innovation.  Sometimes, what we think is a great feature is not really a market driver and sales are not affected with or without it.

Lenses / Re: Ditching the Primes - Advice/Opinions Needed
« on: July 25, 2014, 02:02:35 AM »
I've sold all my 50mm lenses, my 35mmL, and my 85mm f.1,9.  They were great lenses, but with the high ISO capability of the 5D MK III, my 24-70 MK II and 70-200mm MK II and 100-400mm L along with my 16-35mm f/2.8 get almost all the use.

I kept a few primes, 15mm FE, 17mm Tokina f/2.5, 100mmL, and I just could not part with my 135mmL.

Do what works for you, you are young enough to get them later.  Your new baby should come first.

Software & Accessories / Re: DxO upgrade question.
« on: July 24, 2014, 10:41:08 PM »
Hi Mt Spokane.
I just confirmed with the DxO Supported Gear which edition for your camera. It would appear that all crop cameras, which is what I have, are supported by Standard Edition. It is only when making the jump to full frame that Elite Edition is needed.
I do appreciate the heads up though.
I found Standard Edition version 9.0 for £69 instead of £79. Just wanted to know if I can upgrade to 9.5.1 from 9.0 for free as I read that minor upgrades are free but major are at a cost.

Cheers Graham.

Thanks for the correction, I'd thought it was all DSLR's.  I now have FF so I had to use the Elite version.

Macro / Re: Mechanicals
« on: July 24, 2014, 10:38:32 PM »
That's a difficult photo to capture, a flash might have ruined it.  Shiny metal is among the most difficult for me.

Lenses / Re: Buying a used lens from Adorama
« on: July 24, 2014, 05:14:13 PM »

The Warranty card does nothing.  For service, you need a receipt from a authorized dealer (Like Adorama).  You can toss the warranty card.

I know this is the case... but what is the warranty card... a vestige of years gone by?  I had a 1.3mp Olympus p&s and the usb connection went bad, so I called them and they said that my online registration was for marketing purposes alone and I needed the receipt... I was so angry that I never considered another one of their products...

So if you have purchased from an authorised retailer - and why wouldn't you??!! - they should be able to take your zip code and / or email address at the time you placed your order, ID your order and send you a copy invoice.

If they can't, you should've bought from Adorama  :-*

Most reputable online dealers let you retrieve a invoice online.  Local ones keep records and usually can duplicate one.  I almost always buy from either Adorama, or from a small local camera shop in Couer D Alene Idaho.  They employee real photographers, and I like to do my share of keeping a few of the old fashioned shops around.  One small local photo store for Pros just closed shop recently.

I buy a ton of stuff from Amazon, but not Cameras.

Software & Accessories / Re: laptop for tethered shooting?
« on: July 24, 2014, 05:06:27 PM »

I was thinking the same thing. While the display on the M3800 is touch, I'm not sure if a stylus will be practical/possible (plus, I'll be downgrading to Win7, and I'm not sure how 7's support is for touch).

To your point about the trend toward 4K, it would surprise me if Adobe didn't get with the scaling program soon. If I can get anywhere near the lifespan out of the new Dell as I have with this HP, then 3200x1800 might be a good bet, counting on Adobe to catch up in the next year or two.

Thanks for the input!

Maybe I spring for the 3200x1800 display now, knowing I can add more RAM any time in the future. Adding more pixels, not so much...  :P

I'd warn you away from Windows 7 if going high DPI. Windows 7 has the bare minimum support for it possible. Windows 8.1 Update 1 has VASTLY superior High DPI scaling and support. There is also little reason to not use Widnows 8.1 these days. You boot into the desktop by default, which is nearly identical to Windows 7 with a few minor tweaks here and there. The only major difference is the start menu has been replaced with the start screen, however you can get third-party utilities that restore the start menu as well.

Windows 8 boots in seconds, and overall uses far less memory and is generally much faster than Windows 7. It is also far more resource efficient, which increases battery life in a laptop compared to Windows 7. There is very, very little reason to downgrade, and so many reasons to stay with Windows 8. If you go with a 3200x1800, Win 8.1 is definitely the better option.

I just upgraded to 8.1, and shortly after reading Microsoft's support files about problems I was having with IE 11, I went back to windows 7.  I'll give 8.2 a try to see if it fixes the issues.  I like to put links to web sites on the desktop by dragging from IE, that does not work.  Dragging them to the favorites bar in IS 11 also doesn't work.

That feature is something I use a lot.  Microsoft says they are aware of the issue, but that's all.

Other than that, I found Windows 8 to be faster than Win 7, and generally a improvement.  Its the details that get you.  With Windows 9 said to be coming out next year, I wonder what we'll see.

I have a relative who is a manager at Microsoft, and he uses it because he has to, but also uses Start 8 like I did.

Windows 8 would not stop me from buying a Surface 3, I would not be using it as a primary machine. 

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