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Messages - Mt Spokane Photography

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Lenses / Re: just got my 6d, your thoughts
« on: February 18, 2013, 09:44:09 PM »
The 40mm should do it for street photography.
What are the kit lenses?  I'm only aware of the 24-105mmL being offered as a kit lens in Canada and the USA, but it can be different depending on which country you are in.

Lenses / Re: Recommendations for Selling Expensive Telephoto
« on: February 18, 2013, 02:36:24 PM »
I have seen some supertele lenses listed on CL locally, priced appropriately, and the listings were not up for too long (1-2 weeks at most).  So I think it's certainly possible to sell on CL, but chances will be much higher in a large metropolitan area.  I would avoid listing my phone number in the ad, though (unless you buy a disposable cell just for that purpose).  Rather, in your ad indicate that any reply should include a phone number for contact.  As stated, meet somewhere public, accept only cash (although that may no longer be necessary if you're willing to give up a 2.75% commission with something like Square Up).
Same here, I bought my 600mmL from Craigslist, and there have been many that were snapped up immediately.  I have bought many "L" lenses and 1 series bodies as well that way.  Cash talks, a seller who does not have to pay ebay and paypal or credit card fees is much more willing to negotiate.

If I can see any try a lens first, and if the seller is knowledgable and has proof that he owns the lens and has had recent cleaning or service, or is a CPS member, its safer than Fred miranda, where there are tons of complaints about people getting bad equipment. or just outright scammed.

I'm not is a big metropolis, the Spokane area is large enough to have two or three decent camera stores, but is not a large city. I have driven the 300 miles to Seattle in some cases to get what I want.

Reviews / Re: Camera Help 7dii 5d3 or 6d
« on: February 18, 2013, 02:26:25 PM »
Canon has hinted pretty strongly that there will not be a 7D MK II.  This can always change, but they apparently feel that FF is the future for  high end cameras.
The 70D may be upgraded to take its place.  Right now, there is little to differentiate a 60D from a T4i, except a T4i is more expensive. 

Lenses / Re: Recommendations for Selling Expensive Telephoto
« on: February 17, 2013, 11:49:29 PM »
When selliing a expensive lens online, your seller reputation is extremely important.  If you do not have a history, then you will not get a top price.  Thats true on ebay, or Fred Miranda.

However, if you live in a heavily populated area, you can list on Fred Miranda (A nominal fee is involved) and specify that it can be inspected and picked up locally.  Thats likely the only way you will sell it.

You can list it in your local Craigslist, and you might be suprised.  There are lots of people looking for such a lens and would like to see it and take a few images before they buy.  Just do not invite anyone out to your home, arrange to meet in a safe location like a Starbucks.  Also don't succomb to listing it at a inflated price just to see if anyone will bite.  Serious buyers will mark you as a scammer and will not call even if you lower the price to something reasonable.  Do your research first, set a fair price, and stick to it.  Have some documentation showing that you are the owner, and hopefully that it was cleaned / inspected at Canon recently with a clean bill of health.  This investment will pay off.

Expect to get $3800-$4400 depending on the condition and your selling reputation.

Here is a popular database of prices$db/index.htm

 hope that helps.

What ever works for you is the right way.  There are numerous popular ways of organizing, but they all require keywording to make the best use of the database. I'm lazy and have not always done keywording carefully.
If you do not religiously keyword everything, organize the way you feel is comfortable.
BUT ... Lightroom knows the year, month, and day of each photo, merely go to the filter panel in the library and the first column is the date.  Drill down to the date you want, and only images from that period are shown, it could be year, year and month, or year, month, and day.
This might tell you that filing them by location, event, or some other type of organization would provide information that Lightroom does not do (unless you keyword those things)
I file mine by event, the date takes care of itself.  If I were to always keyword them, they could all go into one directory.  I also break my rule for a multi day event, adding the date to the directory such as when I'm doing a play, and there are two or more days of dress rehearsals, then I create a folder for each day because some of the actors might be missing or out of costume on one of the days and I do not want to miss his/her image.  Of course, I'll forget this after a month or two, but by then, the project is finished.

Lenses / Re: Help Me Build My Lens Stable!
« on: February 17, 2013, 07:45:13 PM »
Get a low cost FFbody  and invest in a good lens.  A 24-105mmL is a excellent start, so a 6D Kit might be the way to go.  I'd keep your 50mm 1.8 and 70-200 and go for a 100-400mmL for wildlife.  Those two lenses along with what you own will be a very good start. You may also get a 430 EX II flash. 
If you want to do macro, there are a lot of excellent Macro lenses, but you than can get into expensive tripoods and macro heads, it might be better to wait.

EOS Bodies / Re: Best way to clean dust off focusing screen of 5D3?
« on: February 17, 2013, 07:22:43 PM »
I'm in luck: a few puffs of the rocket blower removed it. I think it was on the mirror.
Thats great, I'm glad it wasn't one of those tough ones.

Lenses / Re: Sigma 120 400 vs sigma 120 300 os 2012 + 1.4tc
« on: February 17, 2013, 07:21:23 PM »
I would like wider aperture and good sharpness which Is why I'm looking for an alternative to my sigma 120 400. Sadly i can't afford the canon 300mm 2.8
I'd certainly want to try it before plunking down hard earned money.  The Sigma should be OK in the center portion, but not great. 

Software & Accessories / Re: Stolen Camera Finder?
« on: February 17, 2013, 07:14:03 PM »
Well depending on the circumstances you may be able to.  A stolen t4i may not be worth it.  But a 1dx may qualify for grand larceny and would depend on wether law enforcement wanted to be bothered.

Generally speaking, insure your equipment and replace it possibly with something better.  If you find your camera online you can report it to your insurance company and let them deal with it.

As I understand, if someone were to be dumb enough to post images online that have the exif intact with a camera they stole, it would find the images.
However, camera thieves steal cameras to resell to a unsuspecting third party, who than may indeed post images taken proudly with his new camera.
However, there is little you can do to recover it.
There is a big jump between locating a photo taken with your equipment on Flickr, and finding the person with the camera and actually recovering it.  Flickr is not going to give you the name and address of the member, they may not even know who he is, except that they do or should have a credit card number (maybe also stolen).  It would take a police department or court order to get them to divulge that information.  The person with the equipment may be accross the country from you, and you will have to either hire a attorney or travel to that location to file a complaint with the police.  Then, good luck at having them do anything.
So, you may then have to pay thousands of dollars for a attorney and all the court orders, etc to try and get it back.
You have to be pretty lucky to get property given back to you without a hassle and expense.  It does happen.
Pawn shops hold property for a period set by the local laws, and search for serial numbers of stolen property.  As long as they carry out due dilligence, they will not be charged with being a fence, and the best and quickest way to get your property back is often to just to re-imburse them for what they paid.
If you go to the police, they may seize the item and put it in a property locker for a year or two until you get a court order to claim it.
Thats why I say that there is little chance of recovering it, you have to be pretty lucky, or you just go into paperwork hell.

Lenses / Re: Sigma 120 400 vs sigma 120 300 os 2012 + 1.4tc
« on: February 17, 2013, 01:09:39 PM »
The biggest problem is that a TC magnifies lens flaws, and the 120-300 has plenty of them when wide open.
A 100-400mmL will be noticably sharper at 400mm.  If you must have f/4, try and find a older Canon 300mm f/2.8.  Even with a 1.4X TC, its very sharp.

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Film EOS Body
« on: February 17, 2013, 01:04:50 PM »
Unlike a DSLR, a film Camera body is basically a box that you mount a lens on.  You can get the same image with a $5 EOS film Rebel from a Garage sale.
Obviously, the more expensive cameras have more features, are more rugged and reliable, but with film Cameras, the lens is a far more important factor than anything else.
Pro level film bodies can be had for a low price, so go for one if you are going to keep it, but, if you are just experimenting, you can use a cheap one and get the same image.

EOS Bodies / Re: Best way to clean dust off focusing screen of 5D3?
« on: February 17, 2013, 12:50:58 PM »
Its likely not actually on the focus screen, but above it.  If it will not blow off with a gentle puff from a rocket blower, send it to Caon for cleaning if it really causes you a issue..
Do not touch the screen or mirror, that will ruin the screen, and might mess up the mirror as well.

Software & Accessories / Re: Stolen Camera Finder?
« on: February 17, 2013, 12:47:46 PM »
As I understand, if someone were to be dumb enough to post images online that have the exif intact with a camera they stole, it would find the images.
However, camera thieves steal cameras to resell to a unsuspecting third party, who than may indeed post images taken proudly with his new camera.
However, there is little you can do to recover it.

EOS Bodies / Re: 5D Black AF points...NOTHING + Spot-meter?
« on: February 17, 2013, 12:40:31 PM »
I'm really curious (while i don't know really)
What D800 leaves out? What should it have,
to be better than 5D III ?

I don't think it's too much what we're asking
As soon as you shoot off 1500 photos at a event, and bring them back to post process, you will find that the time to process each image is about 5-10 times longer.  That runs up serious amounts of time that could be earning $$$.  Then, at high ISO's, there is a ton of noise.  If you downsize the image to 8mp like DXO does, then its pretty much invisible, so go buy a 8mp body instead.

Next, is the live view, which I likke to use extensively.  Its so slow that its very difficult to use for manual focus due to the delay.

Finally, Nikon is missing lenses that equal the 24-105mmL, the 135mmL, and either the 100-400mmL or the 400mm f/5.6L.  I used a 24-70mm f/2.8G, and it had so much CA that lightroom could not correct it at the edges.
My fingertips were also always touching the buttons on the rightside by the grip (I have long fingers), this locked up the shutter button.

At ISO 100 - ISO 400, the camera was supurb, but I tend to use ISO 6400 and up, where the noise causes monster sized image files and a looooong time to run NR.
The D800 is a very nice camera for landscape hobbyists who do not shoot thousands of images, and can spend hours setting up and taking images and then  in post production to get that one perfect image.  You do need a heavy and stable tripod as well as a top lens to actually get the benefit of those 36 mp.  Camera testers spend hours trying to beef up their already excellent techniques and  setups to be able to see the improvement.

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