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Messages - Mt Spokane Photography

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4156
Lenses / Re: Keep my 70-200 f/4 IS?
« on: April 12, 2013, 01:46:52 PM »
Mine is up for sale now after I received my refurb about 4 weeks ago.  I don't use 70-200 enough to justify two lenses, even though the f/4 is fantastic. 

4157
Lenses / Re: a site like motleypixel but more up to date?
« on: April 12, 2013, 01:38:00 PM »
What data are you actually looking for?  Just photos taken with a particular lens? 
 
In digital photography, the body uded has a effect on the IQ of a image taken with any particular lens, and sometimes a large impact.
 
If you are wanting to see what a lens can do on your body, you need to filter for that.

4158
Lenses / Re: 2 filters jammed together
« on: April 12, 2013, 01:33:49 PM »
I just used my filter wrench a few days ago, I bought a 50mm f/1.8 MK I lens with a UV filter on it for $25, but the filter was stuck due to a tiny ding in the filter thread on the front of the lens. A rubber band would not do it, but I have a heavy duty filter wrench which did the job.   I removed it, and used a thread straightening tool, and it was fine after that. 
 
 
 

4159
Another vote for 50mm 1.4 and 85mm 1.8.

Spokane, question: when did you start seeing these people?

I ask, because it wasn't before my first Canon IS point-and-shoot before people thought my shots were professional.

I'm one of those people that 'buys up' and is then disappointed, but ultimately gets used to it; my Tamron 24-70 just 'let me down' (I wasn't doing things right) on it's first serious use.  I wanted f2.8 DoF, but my son was running in and out of the field too quickly. All of them that I stopped down to f4.0 looked great. 

You live and you learn; as long as you're willing to learn, you'll be fine.

I've purchased dozens of cameras and lenses, probably hundreds, locally from Craigs list or estate sales or garage sales for many years.  I use them a bit, keep the ones I like, and resell the others.  Then if something better comes along, I sell the one it replaces.  I make sure when I buy something that I can resell it without danger of losing money.
 
 
For many of the rebel DSLR's I've bought, a high percentage were from buyers who put them away in a closet after using them a month.  Then, they sell them after another year when they realize that they are never going to use them.  By contrast, That is seldom the case with the XXD or higher cameras.
 
The issue is that some new buyers don't know what to expect from a DSLR, and might use a little help.  Most all of the users here knew what they were getting into, but even so, we see one or two a week asking for help. so I thought it might be nice to have a FAQ for them to read.
 
 
I think your example of stopping down to get more depth of field on a slower focusing beginnner type camera/lens combination could be worked into a lesson learned.  Something like:
 
"Canon Rebel DSLR's are meant for beginner level photographers and do not have a pro level ability to focus sharply on fast or erratically moving subjects like soccer players when used with a wide aperture shallow depth of field lens. 
 
One way to work around this is to close your aperture down to a smaller amount, f/4 or f/5.6.  You will get more depth of field, and find that the camera can better keep up with sharp focus of moving subjects."

4160
EOS Bodies / Re: Is the SL1 sensor an improvement?
« on: April 12, 2013, 12:48:43 PM »
As far as IQ, at low ISO's you are almost certainly not going to notice any difference.

Not true.


                          "DPReview published some JPEGs from a pre-release camera.  Still, I can't do this with my T2i.  Here I've pushed blacks that were in the neighborhood of 8 counts up to the neighborhood of 140 counts.  I see no sign of banding and very little noise.

What do you think?  Better noise processing?  Black point clipping?  Or a genuine reduction of read noise?  Raw images will settle this, but I haven't seen any yet."
It is true, he asked how it would compare to his T2i, not a D800.  A D800 or Nikon was not mentioned by the OP!Its not going to be much different from his T2i.

I appreciate the input of many on this forum... but what I think Mt Spokane and Neuro have missed in this, is that Lee Jay IS the OP.  I am following Lee Jay's line of thinking here....

At the end of the day I hope there is improvement at both Low ISO and High ISO ... ie less noise, low banding, etc.

Paul

The point is that he asked if the upcoming SL-1 was going to be better than his T2i. 
Then when answerwed that it probably would not be, he said "not true".  And started in about the D600 which was not mentioned in the first place.
 
He needs to ask the question he wants answered.
 

4161
Lenses / Re: IS mandatory? 70-200 f/4 IS vs. f/2.8 Non-IS
« on: April 12, 2013, 12:39:00 PM »
I've had multiple copies of all three versions of the f/2.8, and the IS version of the f/4. 
Use of the non IS version was not a issue for me, but I knew to keep my shutter speeds up to 1/200 sec, usually 1/400 if I could.  It is a wonderful lens, and used prices make it better.  Since it does not have IS, its simpler and seems to be more reliable.
Obviously, IS is more forgiving of my sloppy practices, but after learning the best settings for no IS at 200mm, it worked very well.
 
Here is a handheld shot with the f/2.8 non IS and a 1.4X TC.  Its a near 100% crop.  Wide open aperture and 1/320 sec.  280mm equiv.  I found the lens locally for $300.
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

4162
EOS Bodies / Re: 5DM3 Firmware Update
« on: April 12, 2013, 12:24:29 PM »
I just updated my my 5DM3 to 1.1.2 firmware. This was the first time that I have updated firmware on a Canon camera & I used to have a 7D as well. What surprised me is that the firmware version was only available for Windows & not a Mac. Why is this?? Is there an easy way to update the firmware using a Mac?? I did get my camera updated, but I had to scour the web for it. I would much rather go directly to the Canon USA website to get the update. Thanks in advance!!
The firmware is for the camera, and not for a computer.  The installation is done by the camera.  Download the files to the CF card, put it into the camera, and update.  If necessary, extract any zipped files first.

4163
Reviews / Re: 7D2 or 5D3?
« on: April 12, 2013, 12:20:16 PM »
Another option to consider is a used 1D MK IV.  Supurb for wildlife, and has a slight 1.3 crop sensor.

4164
Canon General / Re: Random Thoughts
« on: April 12, 2013, 12:16:20 PM »
What do you do when....

A photo lab renders a photo that doesn't match your edit?
 
You need to provide them with a file that matches their printer profile.  They should make a copy of the profile available. Start Here:   http://www.drycreekphoto.com/Learn/profiles.htm

A client thinks you are a photoshop guru who can make the photo look totally different from what was present. For example, I've had brides want me to change a horses ears from being pricked backward to forward, remove salt shakers from tables, etc. What is appropriate and reasonable in this circumstance? I am a photographer not a photoshop guru.

Those things are commonly done in photoshop.  You might hire someone to do it, or learn.  However, unless you do that type of thing frequently, its not likely worth the effort of learning it. Its common to move eyes apart or closer, to make a face look better, or make a nose smaller. :)    

4165
Lenses / Re: 100-400 f4.5-5.6L or 2x extender
« on: April 11, 2013, 09:58:27 PM »
Your 100-400mmL should  AF nicely on the 5D MK III with the Canon 1.4X TC as soon as the new firmware arrives in a couple of weeks.  I tried the Kenko 300 PRO DGX and my 100-400L focused well with my 5D MK III and even on my old 10D using the TC  That gets you a good image out to 560mm..
I'd recommend the 100-400mmL (I have it and the 70-200 f/2.8 MK II)

4166
PowerShot / Re: SX50 outperforming 5DIII +100-400mm
« on: April 11, 2013, 09:51:12 PM »
I weent to our local Best Buy and looked a SX50 over also the Sony equivalent.  Even though the lighting is plenty bright to get fast autofocus with my 100-400mmL and 5D MK III, the camera would not focus at all when zoomed out to about 10X.  The Sony was much worse.  I tried on very well lit areas close to the bright lights,  ..,.nothing.  It did focus up close.
 
I was underwhelmed, I can't imagine being able to use it except in bright sun, and then AF might take a few seconds.  So much for that idea.

4167
Canada / Re: Camera calibration/checkover
« on: April 11, 2013, 09:19:35 PM »
Yes I'm in Ontario Canada
I contacted Vistek in Toronto Ontario Canada and if I schedule it, leave it for 2 hrs they will test it and make minor adjustments.
If it needs any major adjustments or repair it needs to go to an authorized Canon repair person
That could be 7-10 days
And I didn't get what the difference was between minor and major adjustments
Thanks
Ontario55

too many hand offs  Vistek has to check it, decide if they send it out, ... get it back, check it again, .... all adds cost and delay.  Best would be send it directly to Canon.
Probably so.  If your close enough, you could drop it off and pick it up in Mississsagua.

4168
Canada / Re: Camera calibration/checkover
« on: April 11, 2013, 04:33:55 PM »
Yes I'm in Ontario Canada
I contacted Vistek in Toronto Ontario Canada and if I schedule it, leave it for 2 hrs they will test it and make minor adjustments.
If it needs any major adjustments or repair it needs to go to an authorized Canon repair person
That could be 7-10 days
And I didn't get what the difference was between minor and major adjustments
Thanks
Ontario55

I'd expect that a major adjustment would involve opening the camera where a minor adjustment could be made by banging it on a sturdy table or giving a sharp rap with a mallet :D
I do wonder what a 1-2 hour minor adjustment entails.
 
 

4169
Pricewatch Deals / Re: Canon Refurb 400mm f/5.6L $910
« on: April 11, 2013, 04:01:58 PM »
Its a good lens for BIF, fast AF and reasonably sharp.  I had one and sold it in favor of the 100-400mmL.  The issue I had was its length, its a great lens for the price.  It is fairly long, and does not fit in a lot of camera bags, while the 100-400mmL is actually shorter when collapsed than a 70-200mmL MK II.  A 70-200 with 2X TC is cumbersome to hold, but can produce excellent images.

Do you still have the 100-400mmL and/or the 70-200 with 2X TC?

Yes, I have both.  I much prefer to use the 100-400L at 400mm.

Okay, so is it safe to assume that since your still wanting to get the EF 400mm f/5.6L USM Super Telephoto lens that it has some advantages to the other two lenses correct?  Not trying to be funny in asking this question. Just trying to learn more.
I'd say that the 400mm f/5.6 is great for BIF or any use where you use a fast shutter speed and don't need IS.  I decided that IS was a advantage for me, and allows me to hand hold the 100-400L with lower shutter speeds.
 
The Three or Four options all are good.  I was merely posting the article so that those who were looking for one would be aware of it.  I'm not recommending it or against it, its a very fine lens, and the right pick for some applications, but the wrong one for others. 
Example - If you want to take images of small birds that will let you get close, maybe 5 or 10 ft away, the 11 ft minimum focus distance might be a disappointment.  The 100-400L lets you focus to 6 ft.

4170
This is not a Rumor, but I'd just sit tight and see what happens with new APS-C models coming out this year.  Then you can decide.  You have excellent lenses to use with a higher performing APS-C model, but to get the same FOV you are used to, you will need lenses that have a 1.6X increase in focal length, and that is going to involve $$.  To see the same FOV as your 70-200, you would need 112- 320mm.  A 70-300mmL is close, but smaller aperture, or a 100-400mmL.
Think about what you need to get the same FOV for your birding with your APS-C and budget for a longer telephoto.

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