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Messages - Mt Spokane Photography

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Lenses / Re: Canon FD to EF
« on: February 05, 2013, 07:02:47 PM »
The Ed Mika converter is great for valuable and high quality FD lenses, but for run of the mill FD lenses, its far cheaper to get a Nikon or M42 or OM lens and a cheap adapter than fool around converting a FD with a expensive adapter..

Site Information / Re: Moderators: You are Too Sensitive
« on: February 05, 2013, 11:46:25 AM »
It is amusing to note that those who claim that this is a photogrpahy forum and that they come here to know/learn photography and that there is no room for this, that and the other are still replying/posting in this "supposedly useless" thread, when there is nothing of photographic value here or in any such similar threads ;D ... I mean if one thinks the egg is rotton from the first bite, does one have to eat the whole egg to make sure it really is rotton!
Ironically these "supposedly useless" threads somehow seem to go on and on, largely thanks to those who claim they do not like these kind of posts/threads.  ;D

I see you are posting here too.  And, I agree with you, nothing of photographic value in this post.  Thats likely why the OP put it in Site information.  The site Information forum seems like a good place to discuss forum policies.  He seemed to be concerned that hate posts were being removed.

Lenses / Re: Tokina AT-X 16-28mm F2.8 vs. Canon EF 17-40mm F4
« on: February 05, 2013, 11:39:34 AM »
Tokina is the one third party lens that I'd buy.  They are well built and reliable.  However, I got a 20% off deal on a new Canon 16-35mmL last year, and bought it.
I find that ultra wide lenses are not my thing though, so I may sell it for a 24-70mm MK II instead, I still have my old Tokina 17mm f/3.5 Prime for the few times I need really wide shots, and I also have a 15mm FE which also seldom gets used.

I use Lightroom to import my images from a card reader.  Lightroom never deletes the files from your card.  you have the options in the Windows 7 image impoort set to delete files from the card, and thats what it does.
1.  Use a card reader.
2.  Set the import options so that files are not deleted after they are imported.
3.  Format the card in camera when you have the files safely imported and backed up. 
BTW, Lightroom, and many other photo editors will also make a second copy of the original file and put it in the backup location (NAS, Network Location, external drive, etc) at the same time the file is copied to your working file directory.
You need to use a card reader to recover your files, Its doubtful that you can do it from the camera link.

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: New MFA method
« on: February 04, 2013, 11:53:59 PM »
CD focus using liveview is what is inconsistent (on some bodies, but not all).  That green dot is part of the CD focus system, so it is suspect as well.
The liveview image you see is right off the sensor, and is the image you are getting, so you can use 10X and focus fairly well using the rear LCD.  Its better if you tether to a large monitor though.

I use Image Rescue 4.  It will recover image files including cr2 files, videos, etc.  As long as you have not used the card to take more photos, they should all still be found and easily recovered.
You need a card reader, the software will find it and the images.
A bonus is the erase feature which will erase a card completely and fix any bad memory cells by mapping them out.  Obviously, when you use that feature, any images on the card are basically gone forever.

Software & Accessories / Re: Need help with developing in LR
« on: February 04, 2013, 11:40:31 PM »
There are lots of good ones, my favorite is the one by Martin Evening, there is also a Scott Kelby book, and one by Victoria Brampton. All three are supurb, but maybe formatted a little differently
I have viewed online videos, but I do not find it practical to take them in my camera bag, and, even if I did, finding the answer to even a simple problem would not be practical. Once I have read a book and know whats there, I can quickly find the section again and have my answer in seconds.

Third Party Manufacturers / Re: New 6D and M42 lenses capability.
« on: February 04, 2013, 10:52:02 PM »
Try some old Zeiss Hassleblad lenses.  They can be found in 50mm and longer focal lengths without costing a arm and a leg... (a few fingers maybe)  Hitting the mirror is never a issue, they sit over a inch away, and they have a huge image circle, so very low viginetting.  Now, if they were only sharper, they would be perfect.  You to want the T* ones that have a anti reflection coating.
I bought  Camera, accessories, and set of five lenses locally for $1700.  Just the body and the accessories were worth that on the used market.
This is the 50mm lens and was taken with my 5D MK II and a 60mm Zeiss Hasselblad lens and adapter.
BTW, the focus is a dream to use, far better than even a manual focus TS-E or any 35mm Manual focus lens.  You can set it to the exact point of focus you want with little effort.
Too bad they are not available in 24mm or 35mm without mortgaging your house.


Software & Accessories / Re: Need help with developing in LR
« on: February 04, 2013, 10:34:06 PM »
Its hard to unnderstate the necessity of buying a good lightroom book to see what the experts do.  We all have varying degrees of experience as well as a tolerance for imperfections.
I tend to often shoot dark theater scenes at high ISO's, so I adjust a image at the various high ISO settings and let LR duplicate those adjustments for that ISO and body.
I often take a lot of images that are almost identical as actors move slightly, or in a attempt to capture a expression or movement.  I adjust one of the series and then clone the others to have the same settings.
If you want corrections to be made automatically, try DXO.  I don't use it, but I've tried it, and it does a excellent job of developing images, and determinimg how much nr, brightness, vibrance, contrast, ect so you get a good image with very little or no effort.  It does not have the advanced tools that LR does, so you might still want to use photoshop to touch up some images.  DXO also does not organize images, and creates sidecars which I hate, since they seem to get lost or are not always moved when I move the files.

Having worked with specifying, manufacturing and testing gold contacts for many years, its a bit of a poor situation with the tips of the contacts being used to make electrical contact.  Gold is a lot like a thick paste and pushes around and smears much easier than some metals, and the pressure is pretty high on the end of those contacts.  Plating the ends of the contacts is also quite difficult, thats where the gold will always be the thinest, and where gaps or cracks in the plating are most likely to occur.
You do not want a gap or crack in the gold, since you then will get dry circuit corrosion with the nickel underplate.  Dry circuit corrosion cannot be seen, because it it a thin electrical insulator for low voltages.  The wiping action of installing a lens will normally wipe the film away.
There are tons of inventors who have created cleaning solutioons for electrical contacts, but most of them also wipe away some gold, and in the end, ruin the contacts.  They beat a path to our door, but most don't understand the issue because they can demonstrate that it cleans, but we look at the surfaces under a scannng electron microscope and can see the damage. You can also see damage by cross sectioning a part, but gold is so soft and easy to smear that only the most talented and able technicians can section and  polish a gold plated part successfully.  We also use x-ray fluorescent test machines to measure for proper gold thickness, but they cannot see cracks or pores.
Generally, a wipe with a smooth clean cloth is well able to clean away any dry circuit film, and it should only be done sparingly.  Non aprasive cleaners are ok, but they may get into the camera body and wreak havoc.  Most of the time, just removing and remounting a lens fixes the issue. The issue could originally be a manufacturing defect, but if a eraser or contact cleaner has been used, that is also a suspect. Once the damage has been done, it will only get worse, so beware, even one time can mess things up.

Third Party Manufacturers / Re: future of sigma art line
« on: February 04, 2013, 08:20:46 PM »
Having been burned by Sigma compatibility multiple times, I'm watching their new lenses with interest and a bit of doubt about their AF and compatibility.  Their record of reliability is dismal, and there is little evidence that that is changing.  Their IS fales at a high rate, for example.
For Nikon shaft drive lenses, its a different story, AF is fast and reliable, but Sigma is going away from that.  Older Sigma autofocus lenses for Nikon hold their value well, but are essentially worthless for Canon DSLR's since they will not work.

While I see how it works, I'm doubting the claim of better low light performance of a actual camera (which does not exist).  The light loss seems to me to merely be moved to a different place. That very tiny diffraction grating is 100% efficient, but light that does not strike it is reflected back and lost while all of the light that strikes a color filter is kept, even if its 50% efficient.  How good will the top micro lenses be at focusing all the light on the diffraction grating??

Canon General / Re: Physical Ailments From Heavy Gear
« on: February 04, 2013, 07:54:07 PM »
Although I do not blame my camera equipment for my problem, I did sell my 1D MK IV and return a new 70-200mm f/2.8L as well as selling a 600mmL due to the weight.  I've been retired since 1998, and last year my hands were hurting so much that holding the heavy cameras was a big issue.  I had carpal tunnel surgery last fall, but there has not been any huge improvement, it might takw another 8 months before I'll know if the surgery solved my problems.
In the meanwhile, I use a 5D MK III and lighter lenses.  I use my 100-400mmL sparingly.  Holding them for several hours gets very painful.

I'd buy a 6D.  I'm not sure what you heard that was bad about it.  AF is consistent, its a good camera for a low price.  Certainly, a 1DsIII is excellent, but relatively expensive, and has the same flash shoe which can have the same issue.

I saw a Brownie Hawkeye at the flea market this weekend.  That was my first camera a 'few' years ago, takes me back to the 'darkroom' in a bathroom.  I wonder if there will be a similar degree of change in photography in the next 50 years - full sensory recording wired to the brain or some such. 

Okay - getting back to the FF/crop discussion.   Again?  Haven't we hashed this out enough?  You say tomayto I say tomahto.
I was started on the Brownie as well, it was the early 1950's, then a Yashica TLR, and then a Argus C3 before buying my First Canon FT-QL in the 1960's.  Just between 1998 and 2013, the camera world has been turned on its head, I expect that in the next 20 years, we will see big changes, and yes, there will be things that seem like crazy dreams now.  Quite a bit of work is being done to link up cameras to the brains of people who are blind, for example, and that research will start to pay off sooner than we think.

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