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Messages - Mt Spokane Photography

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4201
Animal Kingdom / Re: panorama to blur zoo fences
« on: December 15, 2012, 09:45:44 PM »
Not sure why the smiley face with sunglasses showed up.  In my preview it was the number eight followed by the end parenthesis.
This is a example of typical smiley's and the code for them.  This forum does not support all of these, but as you can see, the code for "Cool" is a 8 followed by a )
 
http://www.thesilverball.com/index.php?action=help;area=smileys

4202
Lenses / Re: Lens choice advice please??
« on: December 15, 2012, 08:59:05 PM »
Motion blur can be caused by a subject moving, IS will not help, you must use faster shutter speeds.  Even with IS and a still subject, you need to keep a reasonable shutter speed, I'd keep it near 1/100 sec with the kit lens.
The 18-55mm IS is quite sharp.  The low price comes it is made with low cost materials.  You should be able to get very sharp images with it.  The same is true of the 50mm f/1.8.
One of the things that can go wrong, is that the lens is not focusing accurately.  You can easily check this by placing the camera on a tripod and very carefully take 5 or more shots while setting the lens to infinity between shots so that it has to refocus for each shot.
 
Then, without moving the setup, place the camera in liveview being sure you are using live autofocus (very slow) and repeat the 5 shots.
 
Live autofocus is almost always perfect, and if the images taken that way are a lot better, the camera and lens needs to go to Canon for adjustment.  The 7D and the FF bodies have autofocus micro-adjustment capabilities built-in, but only Canon can adjust the Rebels and the 60D.
 
You really need to get to the bottom of your issues before buying a new lens, only to discover that it doesn't help. Once you are getting good sharp images from the kit lens, you can consider buyin a nicer lens.  The Canon direct refurb store has refurbished lenses, and often has sales going on. 

4203
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Wrong colors with my 5D MKIII?
« on: December 15, 2012, 08:44:54 PM »
Yes I'm shooting in mRAW because the card (32GB) fills up so fast otherwise.
Thats important to mention, since users might be aware of a issue with mraw.  I'm not aware of one, but its good to mention it.

4204
Canon General / Re: DxO Mark explained
« on: December 15, 2012, 06:26:30 PM »
Excellent write up, and it matches my experience with my D800 and 5D MK III sensors.  The D800 sensor is supurb at low ISO settinngs below 400, while my 5D MK III pulls away at high ISO settings.
Since I do mostly extreme low light photography, I was disappointed with the D800 performance in low light, but amazed when I used ISO 100.
The thing that is not touched on, are the aspects of a camera system.
Reliability
Service (time and quality for repairs)
Lens quality and available focal lengths that match sensor resolution.
There are other personal preference things like ergonomics, ease of use which tend to vary with user background.
He did touch on the issues with editing of large raw files, but a lot of people do not know exactly how to quantify this.  I found it taking multiple times to render a low light D800 image compared to a 5D MK II image, and running NR or other computation intensive processes was very slow when you were trying to process 500 or more images.

 i have them, after 12800iso the 5dmk3 is better regarding signal/noise. now the 800 is not aimed to be a high iso camera but does it rather well

At the time I ought it last May, I fell for the supurb high ISO pitch that was going around.  I found that at ISO 800 and above, noise started to show up.  I took a large number of images with it at ISO 12800 in very low light.  The reduced High ISO DR is a problem for all cameras at very high ISO, but I was disappointed with the D800.
I also was disappointed in my Nikon 24-70mm f/2.8 G, it may have just been a problem lens, but the CA was horrible.  I like to use live view and tether my cameras, this turned out to be another Nikon weak point, the screen was very slow to update makiing manual focus difficult. 
All those things and a lot more were overlooked in the hype.  I see it as a wonderful camera for landscape shooters, but nothing special for high ISO use.
 

4205
It's very likely that the lights in the arena are flickering and that you'll need a slower shutter speed to catch the whole cycle of flickering. Such is the case with a lot of indoor stadium lighting.

If you want to do it right, you'll need to install radio-triggered flashes in the overhead rafters. Assuming that's not an option, just use a lower shutter.

There's also no need for autoexposure indoors like this. The light isn't changing. If you can get there early enough to get a gray card meter reading and white balance from the court itself, lock in both manually. If not, spend the first few minutes fiddling with the exposure and manual white balance until the histogram (if shooting raw) or back-of-camera preview (if shooting JPEG) looks good. Be sure to shoot some bursts and compare shot-to-shot exposure and color...if there're visible changes, it's because the lighting sucks, and your only option is to keep slowing down the shutter.

And, yes...if you let the shutter get too slow, you'll get objectionable motion blur. That's why the proper answer is high-powered flashes. (And you can actually see such flashes regularly going off on TV broadcasts.)

Cheers,

b&

+1
 
This is a good description of the cause of your problem.  It happens frequently to users who try to use high shutter speeds and flickering lights.
The lights are flickering at 120 hertz, so use a shutter speed slower than 120 sec, or use a flash in the rafters.
You can also just take a lot of of shots and a few will be ok.

4206
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Wrong colors with my 5D MKIII?
« on: December 15, 2012, 06:11:04 PM »
I downloaded the RAW file, but it was only 15.1 MB.
A 5D MK III raw file is usually close to 27- 30mb.  Something is not right.  Is it mraw or sraw???

4207
Canon General / Re: DxO Mark explained
« on: December 15, 2012, 12:59:27 PM »
Excellent write up, and it matches my experience with my D800 and 5D MK III sensors.  The D800 sensor is supurb at low ISO settinngs below 400, while my 5D MK III pulls away at high ISO settings.
Since I do mostly extreme low light photography, I was disappointed with the D800 performance in low light, but amazed when I used ISO 100.
The thing that is not touched on, are the aspects of a camera system.
Reliability
Service (time and quality for repairs)
Lens quality and available focal lengths that match sensor resolution.
There are other personal preference things like ergonomics, ease of use which tend to vary with user background.
He did touch on the issues with editing of large raw files, but a lot of people do not know exactly how to quantify this.  I found it taking multiple times to render a low light D800 image compared to a 5D MK II image, and running NR or other computation intensive processes was very slow when you were trying to process 500 or more images.

4208
Canon General / Re: Canon's FF DSLR sensor under the microscope
« on: December 15, 2012, 12:21:42 PM »
I have yet to see a good explanation of what advantages a .18 micron process gives.  Canon has the capability, so apparently they have not been seeing a compelling reason either. 
My first thought was that wiring traces that must run between pixels could be made smaller, and on chip transistors could be made smaller, but I have read that it is not possible to make the ground and power traces  smaller due to crosstalk and voltage issues unless you adapt Canons new patent for a rear illuminated sensor.  The transistors could likely be smaller, so thats a incremental improvement.  Using more of the available surface area for photocells is obviously a good thing. 
I'm certainly all for new technology if it improves the sensors, but not for new technology just for its own sake.

4209
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Canon 7D: 'I need a Must Have's List'
« on: December 14, 2012, 12:10:16 PM »
You should consider getting a 17-55mm lens, it will really make a difference over the Kit lens.  You did not mention which kit lens you bought, so its a bit hard to make specific recommendations, but the 10-22mm ef-s, 17-55mm ef-s and a 70-300mmL shouuld be at the top of your list.

4210
Pricewatch Deals / Re: Massive Nikon D600+24-85VR Deal - $1996
« on: December 14, 2012, 01:07:05 AM »
Nikon is having a big rebate sale that started today.  Times are tough, and sales are slow. Virtually everyone has the deal, since its Nikon sponsored.
Expect a lot of big deals over the next week or three.

4211
Lenses / Re: problems with canon 50 f1.8
« on: December 14, 2012, 01:02:58 AM »
It could be a lens issue.  Another common issue is not using enough light, FoCal wants very bright light.

4212
Lenses / Re: Canon EF 40mm f/2.8 STM 99% off
« on: December 13, 2012, 08:11:58 PM »
Sounds like Amazon.  The lens is $150 everywhere due to the Canon Rebates, it is a good price.

4213
Technical Support / Re: How to AFMA precisely without Lenscal?
« on: December 13, 2012, 08:08:49 PM »
+1 on FoCal.

There's a DIY solution here: http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Photography-Tips/AF-Microadjustment-Tips.aspx

+1 with Neuro on FoCal.  It will be a great tool if you plan to add more lenses. DIY kit takes WAY too much times.

Call Canon and tell them you want to make sure both camera and lens are perform at best level. I  doubt they will charge money for this task, since you spent over $5k on their product and both items are still under warranty.
Canon will adjust your lens to match a reference body, and will adjust your body as well.  If you have other lenses, or get them in the future, you will be asking the same question again.
FIRST, check to see if you need a adjustment.  Put the camera on a tripod, focus on a flat wall with Detail and snap 10 images at the widest aperture resetting the focus to infinity between shots.
Now, do the same using live autofocus while in liveview.  Unless the liveview focus is noticibly better, you do not need to do anything.  You should try at varying distances and zoom settings. 
 
You can put two different AFMA values into the camera for zooms, one for minimum zoom, and one for max zoom.

4214
Lenses / Re: Ditch 100L for 70-200 L II ?
« on: December 13, 2012, 07:57:36 PM »
get a sigma 70-200 os for portrait and you will get a greato portrait lens and you will retain the macro one
I would not call a maximum magnification of 0.13 Macro, the old non OS version had a .29 magnification.  Still not macro, but better.
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Lens-Specifications.aspx?Lens=806
http://www.dpreview.com/lensreviews/sigma_70-200_2p8_os_c16/
The Canon 70-200mm MK II has a .21 magnification which is not Macro either, but better than the Sigma OS..
 

4215
Lenses / Re: Performance of Carl Zeiss 25 f2.8 ZF on 5d2
« on: December 13, 2012, 07:35:02 PM »
I'd check out the 25mm f/2, I've heard it's amazing.  From what I understand the 25mm f/2.8 is one of the least impressive in the ZE/ZF line.
WHY?  He got the lens free from a cousin, he is only shopping for a adapter. 

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