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Messages - Mt Spokane Photography

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EOS Bodies / Re: What about a more versatile sensor dimensions?
« on: March 04, 2013, 04:48:22 PM »
As you noted, its video, and there is a standard format for video, both TV screens and Movie screens.
It makes no sense at all to have a square sensor for video and pay big bucks for the sensor area that is not usable.
Its the same story for stills, but even worse for video.
Sensor cost is based on the area, more area is more cost, and its not linear, 20% more area might be twice the cost.

Lenses / Re: Samyang 14mm T3.1 for still photography?
« on: March 04, 2013, 04:41:13 PM »
Thanks, just wanted to make sure. It's kinda hard to find any reviews of this cine lens. It has been out for a couple of months no?
Its said to be the same lens, but with a geared focus ring for use with a focus puller.  If its like the regular one, quality is hit and miss.

Lenses / Re: Camera & Lens Focus Calibration
« on: March 04, 2013, 04:38:33 PM »
CPS or any of the very few Authorized Canon Service centers will do it.  Like Neuro said, Reikan Focal can be used  make adjustments at one focal distance for primes, and two focal lengths at one distance for zooms.
Canon may be able to adjust a lens at different distances and focal lengths depending on the lens.  However, you might have to pay for a super fine adjustment if the lens/camera combination already meets specifications.

The new lens has been rumored for about a year, if its like the 24-120 update, it will be a disappointment.
I am hoping that it can at least come close to matching the Canon 100-400L.  If its better, that would be a good thing.

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Amazon vs B&H for purchase?
« on: March 04, 2013, 12:03:12 PM »
I buy a lot of stuff from Amazon.  However, I only buy top camera gear from Canon, B&H, and Adorama.  I simply don't trust Amazon due to my concern that some of their products are counterfeit.  I had a customer service issue with B&H and it was zero hassle.  If it were me, I would buy from B&H.

Amazon gets their products directly from Canon, just like B&H and Adorama.  There are third party sellers on Amazon that you should research before buying from them, but Amazon does not sell counterfit, and you should not spread rumors thru your ignorance.  Adorama also sells thru Amazon!

I would celebrate by photographing the most photographed subject of all time.... the lens cap :)

Seriously though, wouldn't you hate being under pressure to perform and screw up big time instead?

It was the last roll to be developed, not the last roll to be shot.  If he had screwed up, he would just have pulled out another roll and used it / had it developed.
\There are still untold numbers of rolls of the film out there, just no one left to develop them.

It was news back in 2010
I guess it came back to life recently.

but havent people been having corrupt card issues with the lexars?
I have a 64GB Lexar 1000X.  It is excellent.  Older card readers may have a issue with new cards, thats always been the case, you need a current model card reader to deal with the high speed cards, a USB 3 is preferred, and express card readers are also very good.
There are also lots of fakes out there, and buyers who get one are going to have problems!!
The only bad thing I've heard about Transend is that they tend to be slower than other cards that are rated for the same speed.  Its not a large difference, so if they are a lot cheaper, its a option to consider.  I have one 8GB card, but avoid using it, my 8GB Lexar cards are much faster.

EOS Bodies / Re: On the 5DM3 what is the difference
« on: March 02, 2013, 01:15:42 PM »
Spot AF reduces the effective size of the AF point. With single point 'regular' AF, the actual AF point is quite a bit bigger than the little box in the VF (basically, the real points on the AF sensor almost touch).  Spot AF restricts the AF point size to only very slightly larger than the little box that represents it in the VF. Spot AF is useful for macro shooting, I also use it with small birds in thickets. It's bad for moving subjects.

On the 5DIII, spot metering is always in the center (only 1-series bodies can link spot metering to the selected AF point).
There are also some limitations to using spot AF so only use it if you really need it.  Its great for focusing on a bird in a situation where the AF might pickup the wrong thing to focus on, but in low light, AF is slower.
Here is a situation where spot AF can help, you do not want the camera to focus on the branches or flowers, just the bird. The focus is sharpest on the wing, but depth of field is enough so that she is pretty much all in focus.

Lenses / Re: what adaptors do i need
« on: March 02, 2013, 10:49:31 AM »
I'd get a cheap adaptall adapter, forget the FD lens and forget Ed Mika for a cheap lens.  You could spend the price and get a good autofocus lens or a excellent Nikon lens plus adapter for the same money. 
Yhe Ed Mika adapters are for those with expensive high quality FD glass.
I'd also pass on the AF confirm chip.  Many of them are junk, and using them is complicated and frustrating.  Read the manual for one before thinking that they are going to be really useful to send a bunch of data to your camera about focal length, aperture, shutter speed, etc.  You also need to AFMA them. 

Software & Accessories / Re: Lightroom 4
« on: March 01, 2013, 08:39:01 PM »
If you do get LR, I'd suggest you get a copy of the guidebook by Martin Evening.
+1, I've owned a couple and preferred it.

Lenses / Re: Lens purchase strategy
« on: March 01, 2013, 06:36:24 PM »
I found that a zoom like the 24-105mm L was a great place to start.  Then I added more capability as I needed it.  I use primes for low light and zooms for walk around.  I also watch Craigslist every day, and buy any lens that is priced low enough that I can try it and resell it without losing money in the event it doesn't get much use.  Over the years, I've owned most of Canon's lineup with the exception of a few of the super telephotos. (I did buy a 600mm L and found that it was too much for me to haul around and setup).
I also looked at the images I have taken to see what would be a improvement.  I had to decide on a 24L or 35mmL for a low light wider angle lens, and found twice as many images at 35mm as at 24mm, so it came first, and is one of my 3 top usage lenses.

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Made the Jump
« on: March 01, 2013, 06:25:19 PM »
After a few weeks, you will feel that maybe you should have gone for the 1D X, and then it will grow each day ;)

Canon General / Re: Portfolio
« on: March 01, 2013, 06:22:38 PM »
It sounds like you want a photo album.  where you can insert, remove, or re-arrange pages. There are tons of them available, but they are used less and less by professionals, IPads have become very popular for what you want to do and the pages do not get dirty or tattered.  The advantage to using a Ipad is that you will also give the impression of being up to date with the latest technology rather than 1980 ish.

Lenses / Re: Wide angle lens advice and AF confirmation
« on: March 01, 2013, 06:12:51 PM »
I've never found the AF confirmation light to be accurate enough to suit me for manual focus.  Most autofocus lenses are designed for fast autofocus and have a very short amount of rotation.  This makes it very difficult to achieve optimum focus.  I've also tried split prisms and had the same poor results.
Lenses designed for manual focus usually have a much better mechanism and are easier to use, but you need better than average vision.
Focus peaking as found in Magic Lantern might work best, but I haven't tried it.

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