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Messages - Mt Spokane Photography

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Thank you both very much for your replies. Your answers are extremely helpful and it sounds like the newer SDHC USH-I  cards are the way to go.

You also both mentioned the sped of the cards. I mostly plan to shoot skills, but maybe some limited video. Also, while most of my shots will probably be single shot, some pix may be shot using continuous. Any additional advice on the speed of the cards would be appreciated. Should I just get the 95MB/s cards to be safe?

And, finally advice on the size of cards would be helpful. Is there any image quality differences among the different sizes?

First, you may have been given some incorrect information.
A SDXC or SDXC UHS-1 card is not compatible and will not work in a T1i.  There may be a firmware update, but I haven't located one.
It will work at reduced speed in your S100.
Also beware of card write speed ratings. 
The claimed high write speeds are only for a new or erased cards.  Formatting a card in camera does not erase it unless you do a low level format.
A low level format takes a long time, and might eatup your battery if done in camera.
The only cards compatible with all three cameras are SDHC cards.
Be sure to update firmware in all three bodies.
The size of the card does not make a difference in image quality.  SDHC cards are limited to 32GB while SDXC cards are commonly found up to 128GB

One of the improvements in LR4 is that you can selectively apply NR by using the brush.  This lets you sharpen only the features that benefit such as hair, eyes, etc.
Photoshop has layers that let you do this and has had for years.
The dedicated sharpening software works well, being able to apply it selectively is something to look for when you try them.

Canon says to not charge the E4N with the old charger, I'd take their advice. 
I'd go ahead and get a LP-E4.  It will last for several years and you don't have to worry about safety or failures when you need the battery to work.

Lenses / Re: Photo jargon question: f/stops
« on: March 08, 2013, 10:14:34 PM »

I don't exactly understand the "Why the smallest, or the sharpest", but the fastest lens I've heard of is probably f/0.95, of which there are a few. Probably the best known current production lens is the Leica 50mm, but Canon had a 0.95 50mm back in the day.

Lenses are named by largest aperture simply because its the largest aperture that determines the value of the lens (assuming its a normal quality lens).   The smallest aperture does not really cost anything, but it limited since image quality gets pretty poor at extreme small apertures.  For larger the film or sensor sizes,  smaller apertures can be used, so its relative.
The Zeiss 50mm f0.7 is one of the fastest lenses.
"Carl Zeiss Planar 50mm f/0.7 is one of the largest aperturelenses in the history of photography. The lens was designed and made specifically for the NASAApollo lunar program to capture the dark side of the moon in 1966.
Stanley Kubrick used these lenses when shooting his film "Barry Lyndon", which allowed him to shoot the scene only by candlelight.[
In total there were only 10 lenses made. One was kept by Carl Zeiss, six were sold to NASA, and three were sold to Stanley Kubrick."

Lenses / Re: "Big White" lens choice
« on: March 08, 2013, 05:08:09 PM »
I will be using it for field sports, football; soccer, and bird/wildlife photography.

400mm f/2.8L II + Extender 1.4x III

500mm will likely be too long for soccer/football.  OTOH, 560mm is often not long enough for birds.  But...since you can always crop but often cannot back up, and since you listed sports first, I'd go with the 400mm.
Beat me to it as usual.

Landscape / Re: How Would You Edit This Landscape Photo?
« on: March 08, 2013, 05:06:43 PM »
I'd edit it to look like I remembered it.

Exactly.  To me, photography is about capturing what I see - not what I can imagine.  If I wanted to make something fake and use my imagination, I'd pick up a paint brush - not a camera.
I was not belittling any of the many serious posters or their creative vision of how they would edit it, just my own preference.    I don't like to use the term fake, its just how they see it as looking best, and thats fine.
Keep the images coming, at least serious ones.

Consider using Canon utilities to tether your camera, thats far superior to capturing it and then viewing it in a editor.  You will be able to view the image live on your laptop, magnify to 5X, adjust all the camera settings, view a histogram, etc.  Once its perfect, capture it.
This does burn thru batteries, so have a spare or use AC power if possible.

Lenses / Re: Bad 24-70mm?
« on: March 08, 2013, 11:17:08 AM »
sounds like there may have been impact damage upon shipping. there should never be an abrasive feel when zooming/focusing an L lens.

Ha, the focus ring of my 24-105 has gotten a little abrasive due to desert sand getting in there (fortunately not in the lens itself) but only if you push it beyond the stops. It's still a killer lens though :)

There are no stops on a 24-70mmL, or on a 24-105mmL, or any of the USM lenses with full time manual focus.  They have a slip clutch and that is what allows full time manual focus.  Try it, you can keep turning the focus ring as long as you want and will not reach a stop.  Of course, the lens elements have a stop, but the focus ring is designed to keep turning without any damage.

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: CF Cards - Where do you buy yours?
« on: March 08, 2013, 10:54:13 AM »
Amazon or B&H.
Same Here, whichever has a sale.

I'd use a inexpensive photo scanner, since you plan to have your picks drum scanned. A inexpensive Epson photo scanner will be plenty good for evaluation.  I bought one listed on our local Craigslist for $5 as a backup, since I couldn't pass it up for the price.  A V600 is more than enough for reviewing prints.  You can use it for other things as well.
You can profile scanner colors, but they will likely be just fine for a  review or even for 8 X 10 prints.  I use mine for scanning my old photos and negatives that I got when my father passed away.  Some of them go back over 100 years, the negatives go back to about 1940.  I'm intending to do all of my slides and color negatives, but slow to get going.  I'm doubtful that any of them are worthy of anything other than what my scanner can do, they are mostly snapshots.  Its the old Polaroids that need it first, Polaroids were popular in the mid 1960's to 1970's and the color one are badly faded already.  Many will be barely usable.

Lenses / Re: Bad 24-70mm?
« on: March 07, 2013, 10:38:32 PM »
Return it while you can, focus should be smooth.    If you use a AF lens for manual focus, it is always going to be a compromise.  The characteristics that make for fast autofocus also make manual focus more difficult. 
From the DPR Review:
"The focus ring in particular feels very smooth; on our review sample the zoom ring was slightly stiffer in action."

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Keep or sell my 7D
« on: March 07, 2013, 07:03:42 PM »
I doubt that the 7D will drop much more in resale value.  They are already at or below $900, and another $50 is not a big deal.  I sold mine for $950 last fall with a cheap lens, and it was tough to find a buyer at that price.

Pricewatch Deals / Re: Deals: A Few Lens Deals at BuyDig.com
« on: March 07, 2013, 07:00:40 PM »
Does anyone know if they will ship to a hotel while I am travelling to the US?

Ive never bought through them before, I am also curious if there will be issues with using a Canadian CC# with an american address.

Thanks in advance.
Most companies will only ship to a home address.  No Hotels, no post office boxes.  They want to be able to find you if your credit card bounces or comes up stolen.  You can likely make the same deal by walking into a camera store and negotiating.  Cash talks even better, since credit card processing is expensive and there is always risk to accepting a credit card.
If you are in Canada, the same applies.  Take cash to a camera store and negotiate.  You can get deals using a credit card as well, just not as good.

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Initial impression after using 6D
« on: March 07, 2013, 06:55:20 PM »
You should not have autofocus hunting unless you were in the dark.  A working nifty 50 doesn't hunt it might not focus as fast as more expensive lenses, but hunting means it needs service.
For AF lenses I have dismantled, internally, there is a resistive element stuck with adhesive to the inside of the barrel that has a metal spring connected to the inner focus tube that contacts it.  Thats how the lens reports its focus position back to the camera, and if it gets dirty, there is intermittent contact and then it can hunt.  Since the lens is not weather sealed, that can happen.  Get the lens cleaned and serviced.

Landscape / Re: How Would You Edit This Landscape Photo?
« on: March 07, 2013, 06:47:05 PM »
I'd edit it to look like I remembered it.  You are  the only one who was there, and know what the colors and light was like, the rest of us just make something that we like, but it will likely be inaccurate.

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