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Messages - Mt Spokane Photography

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Lenses / Re: Kenko TC and AF at F8
« on: October 15, 2012, 10:48:18 PM »'s definitely PRO DGX with the green (or was it blue) dot on the box (I don't have the box handy).  Actually. just remembered my wife has one, too, so I'll try hers, too, and see if it's any different.

I checked my box, its still laying here.  It has a blue dot.  That usually means some sort of rework or upgrade has been incorporated.
I do set the 100-400Lfocus distance limiter to the 6.5m - infinity setting and then the lens does not run thru its entire AF range.  That makes a huge difference in time to find focus.

Lenses / Re: AFMA'ed the 24-70 mk.ii ... not sure I am loving it.
« on: October 15, 2012, 10:42:17 PM »
While you retest on a stable tripod, don't raise the center column! I learnt the hard way about this no-no...
=1.  You can't be too stable for critical tests like this.  I get much better results in bright light and on concrete with my very heavy tripod and never extend the center column.  I could have added weight to the under hook, but my results were fine.
I'd not worry about a difference of 1 or 2 points unless the shape of the curve is very peaked.
Check the camera in good light tripod, and live AF.  If its not sharp, no amount of AFMA will fix that, the lens needs to be exchanged.

Speedlites, Printers, Accessories / Re: Where is this new flash?
« on: October 15, 2012, 10:33:00 PM »
I'd Skip the PW.  Too many issues with a third party unit.  With the Canon 580EXII, for example, it has a range of 40 ft max, unless you put the weird RF sock on it or pay to have the flash modified.
Other triggers do not have the issue, but still seem to break with every new generation of camera bodies.  At some point, they will not update them any longer and you will have to buy new.
If you need a flash, get one, don't wait for a rumor to materialize.  Some have been waiting 7 years for a new 100-400L.  However, it currently had no real competition, its the best of its kind.

Third Party Manufacturers / Re: SLR-like raw shooting cam - suggestions?
« on: October 15, 2012, 10:27:13 PM »
There have been some very good reviews for the RX100.  I like this one because it tells you both the good and the bad, and there is plenty of both.
As far as ISO 3200, its noisy compared to a APS-C body, but better than a tiny sensor like the G12. 
I've been wanting to get my hands on one to take some test shots, the local camera store has not been able to get them and now I'm waiting for my hand to heal.
I have big hands, and very little sensitivity in my fingers, so a tiny camera might not work well for me.

Software & Accessories / Re: HorusBennu carbon fiber tripods
« on: October 15, 2012, 08:35:36 PM »

I've noticed nobody here discussed this brand. There's a topic on other forum

It might be interesting for someone, someone like me as well.
I considerd on buying FX 8442TT and FX 34QL. I'm 6.3. Do you thing this will be too short for me?
C-3540V is sizewise better, but it might be overkill and I guess I'll be needing a bigger ball head for it.

They seam quite affordable, esspecially after I saw RRS prices.
I found there was only one remark on LX-3 ballhead's clamp up to now everybody else seems to love it.
You should be able to mount your camera on a tripod and look thru the viewfinder.  Thats without any elevated center column.  Never raise the center column, you might as well hand hold the camera, the shaking will be similar.

Speedlites, Printers, Accessories / Re: Where is this new flash?
« on: October 15, 2012, 08:21:42 PM »
Don't ever make a buying decision based on a rumor.  90+ percent do not happen.

Lenses / Re: "Zoom Creep" on the 24-105L : My Solution
« on: October 14, 2012, 08:48:03 PM »
Four words:


That black tape is vinyl.   

The common hardware stuff is vinyl, but you can get other materials that don't deteriorate as well as premium grade vinyl. Not all vinyl is equal, there are tons of different additives and stabilizers that can be added.
Acrylic adhesives tend to get hard and dry (lots of additives to prolong life), while silicon adhesives can liquify under temperature and humidity. (lots of trade secrets to prevent this as well).
Generally, a good grade of 3m tape will last for years.

Lenses / Re: B&H Issues!!!
« on: October 14, 2012, 06:21:21 PM »
There were no people in the picture.  But, I know what a picture of green brick walls, USPS stickers on shelves and carts, and overhead catwalks with peep-slits and visors look like, and I know where they're found.

My guess, someone was going to make themselves a present.  I was on it, and insistent, and somebody got looked at closely, so the package got "unlost" rapidly.   For all I know, "someone" may have "delivered" the package in non-USPO uniform, and non-USPO vehicle, on non-USPO time, just to avoid any problem.  They did not know enough to reformat the card.

I'll confess... hehehe... when I saw the card in the camera, I thought there was a possibility of something "juicy"... or really just curious as to why things were, as they were.  Thats what got me to peep the card and unerase the file.   

I got two cameras, one silver for the GF, and one black for moi.  Use - on motorcycle.  Don't care if they get wet, get knocked about, get abused.  Really don't care for the best image quality.  The cameras primary purpose - survive and make reasonably ok snapshots.  The Fuji's have lousy detail resolution due to anti-noise softening, but have above average color and contrast, will shoot in B&W mode without fiddling, and... important... have LCD's you can actually see in daylight, with a "boost" LCD button for momentary full brightness mode if needed.

That chapter is over... move on.  Sorry to drift the OP's thread a bit.   Just... he's not alone.  Shipping mysteries... remain such for the most part, in my experience.
File a complaint with the postal inspector, they are very keen to catch whoever is doing it.  They have a lot of resources, including surveillance photos, but they can't look at every one.  Your info will tip them off to time and place.  If you do not report it, then the perp will keep right on doing it.

Lenses / Re: Kenko TC and AF at F8
« on: October 14, 2012, 06:15:29 PM »
I do bird photography and use spot autofocus with the centre spot.  I have read that the outer zones are more sensitive but the centre focused well. 

I'll try spot; the regular center point just hunts with the 100-400+1.4.


Be sure its the Pro 300 DGX version.  There are some who say that only recent production of these will AF at f/8.
I did use the center poing, but not spot.  My Canon 10D doesn't even have spot, but it worked very well as did my 5D MK III.

Third Party Manufacturers / Re: Recommend me a m42->EF adapter
« on: October 14, 2012, 06:11:36 PM »
I'd get the adapter without focus confirm chip.  A good chip costs $25.00, so what you get may not be very good. (understatement)
There was a post recently where someone had a AF chip hose his camera, it would not AF after using the adapter and chip.  Thats probably not common, but at least get a good ship, not a Chinese one.  Companies that make the better adapters long ago gave up on the Chinese chips due to failures.

Software & Accessories / Re: AFMA Software and Suggestions
« on: October 14, 2012, 06:07:18 PM »

I understand the software can do many other tests, but for the main purpose for AF calibration is FoCal worth it?

Thats a value judgement that only you can make.  For me, it was worth it.
Here, for example is the sharpness versus AFMA curve for my 50mm f/1.8 MK I lens.  The correct AFMA is -10, but truthfully, it looks pretty darn good at zero.  You do not notice the difference except at 1:1. Its the difference between about 600 and 750 on this scale.

Software & Accessories / Re: AFMA Software and Suggestions
« on: October 14, 2012, 05:48:20 PM »
I have heard a lot about this FoCal software for AFMA.

My question is it really worth it?

Doesn't AF vary by distance to the subject too? From minimum focus of a focal length to a more distant shot at the same focal length?

So this software just adjusts the AF for a specific distance of a focal length (assuming you use that same distance quite a bit), if you change that distance from the aren't going to get that same perfect focus at the same focal length? Am I missing something?

I understand the software can do many other tests, but for the main purpose for AF calibration is FoCal worth it?
It only measures one focal length at whatever distance you set the camera back from the target.  How could it do anything different?
However, you can vary the focal length and distance to the target and compare the best settings, picking the one that makes sense to you.
Knowledge is power, and by taking AFMA measurements at different focal lengths and distances, you can be the one who determines the setting. 
Of course, if You have a 5D MK III, or a 1D X, there are two settings for zooms - Wide and Tele, and the camera interpolates the AFMA for focal lengths inbetween.
As to distance, most bodies do tend to front focus at minimum autofocus distances, so you do need to test and see if its a real issue.

Lenses / Re: "Zoom Creep" on the 24-105L : My Solution
« on: October 14, 2012, 05:39:24 PM »
Your 24-105mm has zoom creep?!?   :o

Guess I'm lucky, mine stays put.
Yes, mine is not even near zoom creeping, I can hold it vertically and have to push firmly or pull  relatively hard to get it to retract or expand.  Mine is about 4 years old, and heavily used, but I suppose that there are bad samples.  I'd recommend that anyone getting one that creeps send it back for exchange.

Lenses / Re: AFMA'ed the 24-70 mk.ii ... not sure I am loving it.
« on: October 14, 2012, 05:34:26 PM »
You can just take one or two shots of a test chart and expect to see the perfect sharpness. I always do at least six 10x liveview manual trials and often try for ten. Just the tiniest, tiniest hair of focusing difference can make test results go all over the place. It's tricky.
Thats whats nice about foCal, you do not get all those variations that happen due to many uncontrolled factors.
Here is a 24-105mmL with at least two shots taken at each AFMA setting.  Notice that they usually are close or on top of each other.  It would be virtually impossible to see the differences in the shots taken at the same AFMA, and being off by + / -  3 points is insignigicant.  You need to be off by 5 points with this lens at 105mm to see the difference in sharpness.   Obviously, some lenses are less forgiving, a 85mm f/1.2 might have a sharper peak.

I have to disagree, even the TINIEST hair difference and the crispness of a test chart WILL differ and you can easily flip flop around comparative performance between two lenses. Even doing 10x LV MF with a magnifier on top you absolutely will see differences test shot to shot and need to pick the best out of a bunch when you are doing fine comparisons.

Even on your chart maybe the first try is the 930 and the next try is the 815, if you didn't know they were both the same copy tested you could mistakenly think one copy is way better than the 'other'. YOu need a bunch of trials to hit the 930 score with reasonable chance.

And say a 300 2.8 IS + 1.4x TC on a 7D, even a difference of 1 on MFA can make a noticeable difference in hit rate, DOF at that high MP count and such a long lens is small.
While it true that someone can see a tiny difference at the AFMA settings, FoCal saves the1:1  images used for the evaluation at the different points, and the difference in sharpness isn't significant to me.
In fact, just using the images, its entirely possible to select the wrong one as being the sharpest.  Some people can, but the differences are very subtle.



EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Camera Modes
« on: October 14, 2012, 04:09:32 PM »
I don't use the dials much, either Av or Tv pretty well take care of everything.  If there is a setup I like and use a lot, I can assign it to a custom mode.
If you are comparing with a Digital Rebel and all the many modes they have, I can't help you there, I'd still use Av and TV with M in a very few cases.
If the Pentax UI is what you like, thats fine, buy one and you will be happy.  Personally, the mode dial is the oast thing I'd consider when selecting a camera, there are many much more important things than the number of modes.

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