July 28, 2014, 03:50:49 AM

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - Mt Spokane Photography

Pages: 1 2 3 [4] 5 6 ... 536
It sounds like the rubber drying out, there are some easy fixes recommended.  I've had at least five 40D's, actually, more like 7 or 8.  I sold my last one this Spring.  I've never seen the issue, so it does sound like a age related issue.

Yet another set of new lenses that won't work with any other camera? 

There is nothing wrong with a curved sensor, but Sony already has so many different lenses, that adding yet another set or two or more seems to me to just be alienating customers who bought in to some of those many other series.  As soon as you buy one, Sony replaces it with something different, a familiar story, and part of the reason they are in such horrible financial shape.  They will not hesitate to drop a whole product line on a whim.

Dying shutters start to show problems at high shutter speeds.  Shoot several shots at 1/4000 and see what happens.   

You'd do much better with even a low end Epson photo scanner.  Why not get a used slide/film scanner from ebay, scan your film, and resell it.  It might just cost you a little for shipping it.

I have three or 4 old photo scanners around.

BTW, check Craigslist.  Sometimes Reasonably Good Epson Photo Scanners can be had for $10.  Epson might no longer supply drivers for Windows 7 64 bit, so people dump them not knowing that there are third party scanner drivers that work well.

By Hot pixels do you mean ones that are stuck on, or just ones you can see after boosting the exposure.

Sensors always get hot and dead pixels as they age, but they normally are not a issue in photos.  Make sure that you are not boosting the exposure by 4 stops or more to be able to see them. 

Normally, NR can remove them.

Are you saying that the top half of the photo was black, or is it the LCD?

If its a photo, does it look the same when viewed on the camera LCD screen?  Is the issue the same for other memory cards? 

A shutter issue sometimes starts with a black bar.  It will appear at high shutter speeds, so you can out a shutter going bad by taking shots at 1/8000 sec and see if the bars show up frequently.

Shutter issues can pop up randomly, I've heard of people having multiple failures.

Since you have been thru this before, you probably have tried different card readers and cables to eliminate any issues there.

If you can't fix the issue, send the camera to Canon and let them tell you what needs to be fixed.  Then negotiate on the repair price.  Be polite, and ask for help, don't demand.  You will likely have to talk to a manager, but they should give you some relief if its a issue they have fixed before.

Software & Accessories / Re: laptop for tethered shooting?
« on: July 21, 2014, 02:57:25 AM »
Thanks, Jrista. 

I bought a 7" Amazon Kindle Fire HD for Christmas, and I know how good the high resolution screens are, its only 7 inches, but I can read text with no problem.  However, I need a keyboard.  I use a pen with the Amazon tablet, the same pen works with my G1X MK II, but I struggle swiping with pens because the fine motor function in my fingers is screwed up.  I can pound keys, and tap the keys on screen with the pen, but even writing my name has become extremely difficult.  I have a Wacom Tablet, but that issue using the pen really makes it hard to use.  Its not something that practice is going to eliminate, the nerves are shot.  I've already had surgery on both hands, but that did not really help.

I had looked the Surface Pro II over before getting the cheap  tablet, its useful for e-mail and reading books, that's all I use it for though.  I'd probably use the Surface Pro.

EOS-M / Re: Need help.. LCD turns on but black!?!
« on: July 21, 2014, 02:43:31 AM »
You need to provide more information.

Is it a new camera, or one you have been using? 

What country are you in, is it a gray market camera, or one sold by a authorized dealer in your country?

Is the display dark all the time, or can you see the menus, for example?

Try removing the battery and let the camera sit for 60 minutes, while you are recharging the battery.  Then try again.  If the display remains black, it will need to be exchanged if possible, or repaired.

You did not say which country you are in, contact Canon about getting it repaired.  If they won't because its a gray market camera, contact the seller for repairs, the good ones will cover repairs should Canon refuse.  A last resort is to contact the credit card company if you paid with one.  Amex, and possibly others provide a warranty.

Software & Accessories / Re: laptop for tethered shooting?
« on: July 20, 2014, 09:04:29 PM »

Personally, I use a Surface Pro, which will soon be a Surface Pro 3. Very light weight, good battery longevity, beautiful high res screen (2560x1440 IIRC on the 3), and full blown windows. I have run PS and LR on my Surface Pro since I got it (over a year ago now). It's nice having a huge screen for live view, especially for landscapes.

Keep us informed.  My eyesight is not all that good, and the 12 in screen on the Surface Pro seems nice.  I find the 12 in screen on my old Lenovo to be its weak point, it runs PS and LR wonderfully.

What Battery life do you get? 

Software & Accessories / Re: EU version 3 flaky - for me so far
« on: July 20, 2014, 08:18:41 PM »
I have a shoot I'd like to perform tethered so tried out the new version with one of my 5DMk3 bodies. After three cords of ever-shorter length the program just disappears off the screen either on its own or in response to  some sort of input. I called Canon and they say they have not had lots of calls about the software; for this gentlemean in Virginia it was his first call on the subject.

So this is just a data point. I am just starting to get a handle on what is wrong.

I did tell them I was bummed that I had to run two versions and if needing to swap the body on the tripod for one of my 1DsMk3 bodies the client (and I) would probably get annoyed backing out of one package and starting another.

My tethering setup is the same as before the upgrade: same Lenovo w520, same cables (that worked before).

I did notice that a frame taken with the Sigma 35mm f1.4 did not auto focus when fired from the button image in the control rectangle in the software. Now I have to try with a Canon lens on the body.

Mine is clearly labeled EOS Utility as installed on my PC.  Both EOS Utility 2 and EOS Utility (3) were installed,

I gave it a try with my 5D MK III, and remotely captured a image, which then opened DPP4 for editing. (that can be changed).

Everything worked fine.

It does sound like some conflict in your computer, those can be tough to figure out.

Software & Accessories / Re: laptop for tethered shooting?
« on: July 20, 2014, 08:04:44 PM »
It all depends on your usage.  I tether mine to a 24 inch screen in my studio, and to a 12" Lenovo laptop.  That Lenovo screen is horrible, and calibrating it is of little help.

I'd suggest that you stick with what you know (MAC), but there are many good windows laptops, so look for one with a good screen.  There are very few in the excellent category as far as screen goes, and they tend to cost almost as much as a Mac.

I personally would stay away from Windows 8 or 8.1, I just upgraded my pc to 8.1, and there are some issues that will not let me use it the way I want.

I have it installed on its own hard drive, and update it from time to time to see if they have it working well.  Some aspects are excellent, but the UI is unworkable for me.

I'd grab a windows 7 laptop if you can.

The Microsoft Surface Pro 3 is also something to look at, it runs windows software.  You will have to deal with Windows 8.1 though.  I'm too stuck in the past, having used personal computers since the 1980's.  I've pretty much used all the mainstream ones, and Macs were my favorite, but they would not run m business software.  Now, they can run windows software, so they are a good bet.

Software & Accessories / Re: Noise reduction in Lightroom
« on: July 20, 2014, 01:32:10 PM »
Julia, there is no single setting to recommend for NR in lightroom.  Every ISO setting requires different NR, and it is different for each camera model, and different for images depending on the content.  Basic NR as applied in camera or DPP, or Lightroom trades off loss of detail for reduction of noise, there are more advanced ways to do it that work around that issue by selectively applying NR.

Cameras typically add a lot of NR for jpeg images in the default settings, but they allow the user to use less, or even more if desired.

Lightroom has a brush that allows you to paint the area where noise is a issue, and then adjust NR for that area only.  Thus, you can apply light NR to areas that do not need it, and more to areas that do.

I looked at the raw and jpeg images, the jpeg has a huge amount of NR, with sharpening added back in. I did not particularly care for it, but it was acceptable.  In Lightroom, there are so many settings and combinations of settings, it is not just the noise reduction and the sharpening that is involved.

Here is my try to come close to your jpeg image.  Its different, of course, you will never be able to match it exactly.  Canon DPP comes close because they use the same basic software in DPP as in the camera.

In Lightroom 5.5

First, set the camera calibration.  I used camera standard, and it was closest to your jpeg for color, contrast, and lighting.

Then, I turned on lens corrections, it found a Sigma 18-200mm lens.

Next, I set sharpening to 48, radius 0.5, detail 11

Then luminance 39, Detail 11, contrast 0

Color 9, detail 8, smoothness 37.

Finally, I set clarity to +15 in order to add contrast at the edges of the leaves.  That makes a image appear to be sharper, but don't over do it.

I also processed it in DXO Pro Elite using the Prime NR setting.  The result was splotchy and ugly on the dark leaves, but that is also a personal preference.

Basically, it boils down to personal preference, and learning what each of the controls does to a image.

Once you have a image looking good to you, then save the settings in Lightroom for that ISO, and it will be applied to every image shot at that ISO with that camera that you import from then on.  You can also reprocess already imported images.  Treat it as a starting point.

EOS Bodies / Re: 5DIII CF vs SD slot performance?
« on: July 20, 2014, 12:38:00 AM »
The issue with SD card speeds is that the 5D MK III does not support UHS-1, and most new cards base their speed ratings on UHS-1, which has a bus that it 2X faster.  Cut those speeds in half.

The big issue that many are fooled by is that SD card speeds are based on a new totally blank card.  As long as the cells in the card are blank, the camera does not have to do the slow block erase function before it can write to them. 

In the real world, we use our SD cards, and depending on the size, they get filled with data sooner or later.   This coupled with the belief that formatting in camera somehow blanks the card seems to be missed.  There are two types of in camera formatting for SD cards, regular formatting which just updates the fat tables to show that files are available to write over (SLOW).  The second type, called low level format, actually erases the card and returns it to full speed.  I wonder how many use this function more than once.  Its very slow to do a low level format of a large card.

So, with a used SD card that has been formatted in camera, the 5D MK III will achieve somewhere between 5 and 10 MB/sec, no matter what that label says, be it 60MB/sec or 100, its going to be 10MB/sec or less.

Once Canon starts supporting UHS-1, the speeds will double, but... that means 10-20MB/sec once you are in the mode of writing over used memory cells.

CF cards don't have that issue.

Software & Accessories / Re: Noise reduction in Lightroom
« on: July 19, 2014, 08:09:24 PM »
In camera noise reduction is very heavy handed, and tends to destroy a lot of detail.  You have more control over it when you shoot raw and use a RAW image editor.  The amount needed depends on ISO used to capture the image, but, you can also apply noise reduction to just the portions of the image that benefit from it.
If your images were already shot using jpeg, then I'd say don't add additional NR.
Probably the best canned noise reduction comes with DXO PRO Elite.
If you could describe the situation and the issue you are having, we can give more specific answers.

Canon General / Re: CPS Repair Warranty
« on: July 19, 2014, 01:01:49 AM »
90 days.  If its working fine for 90 days, and then develops the same issue, contact them, and see if they will bend the rules.

I'd toss all your memory cards, at least the ones you were using before the first issue.  I've seen bad ones cause camera issues, and that was very difficult to track down, but it was a bad card.

Pages: 1 2 3 [4] 5 6 ... 536