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Messages - Mt Spokane Photography

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Lenses / Re: Is micro adjust setting stored in the camera or lens?
« on: March 14, 2013, 10:41:57 PM »
Both the lens and the camera can be adjusted, but only Canon can adjust the lens, while those with AFMA in their body can adjust that body for a particular lens.
You can send your 60D and lens to Canon, and they can adjust both of them to specification.  I had my 35mmL adjusted at Canon Irvine, and now it is right on for all my camera bodies.
Most of the time, new lenses are pretty close to perfect as received, but I have received a few that are off by enough to be detrimental to my images.
I don't recommend getting a fast f/1.4 lens for a 60D due to no AFMA, and its a particular issue for third party lenses, because Canon will not adjust them to match the body, so you must send the lens to its manufacturer and the body to Canon, and hope that fixes things. 
Sigma has a new lens adjustment tool that works with their new high end lens models, so that should help if you pick one with owner adjustment capability.  In that case, the adjustment is in the lens.  The drawback is that the lens may need different adjustments on different bodies, so its not a ultimate solution.

You still need to let the mirror come down in order to take a second exposure.  Mirror lockup is just for one image.

Lenses / Re: New wide angle lens for FF
« on: March 14, 2013, 06:09:32 PM »
For landscape, its more of a focal length choice than a lens choice.  Typically you use them at small apertures to get depth of field, and, at f/16 for example, they are all very similar.
You are paying big bucks for fast lenses that you can use wide open.
AF speed doesn't come into play for landscape either.
Its possible that something else is causing your issue, such as a damaged or misaligned lens.

Software & Accessories / Re: Help on interpreting FoCal results
« on: March 13, 2013, 11:15:20 PM »
You are checking the lens way beyond the recommended 25X to 50X range.   There will be errors if closer or further away.
Your 70-200mm looks ok
Something appears to need adjustment with your 100mmL, send it to Canon.
Your 40mm looks fine. 
Just use the AFMA to adjust the 70-200 and 40mm to a value between 2X and 50X the focal length for average use. 
The results are not really critical, there are too many error factors involved to get things perfect.  A difference of +/- 4 or even 5 AFMA units is usually not a big deal.
Notice that the top of the AFMA curve is typicallyfairly flat.


Lenses / Re: Best filter
« on: March 13, 2013, 10:54:26 PM »
Can anyone tell me which filter will be the best for a 18-55mm lens? Brand and model please. Money does not really matter. I want the best. Link, please.

And yes, I searched for a thread on it but there was nothing useful.
The best ND or circular polarizing filter likely costs much  more than a 18-55mm lens is worth, why not upgrade to the best lens first?

Canon General / Re: Which eye do you shoot with?
« on: March 13, 2013, 03:29:08 PM »
Right eye. 

Lenses / Re: best NON L long lens
« on: March 12, 2013, 09:51:02 PM »
You mentioned full frame, so for a low cost 300mm lens, try the refurbished 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 IS.  For $364, its pretty good.
Nothing else from Canon that is 300mm and low cost with IS.
I've owned many of the third party lenses, most of them were marginal, and not worth the price.
One of the few good + low cost lens I have owned is a old Tokina 400mm f/5.6.  Its a fine lens, but no IS, so it requires a fast shutter speed, and that's tough with a f/5.6 lens.  I only paid $125 for it, but that was a deal.


Little to no perceptible difference at that aperture would be my guess.  Are you printing very large?  I'd say maybe beyond 12x18 you may be able to tell but it's still likely going to be slight at best.

I doubt that there is much difference at F/9, and by F/16, they are all nearly identical.
Don't spend a ton of money on a wide aperture lens if you are using it only at small apertures.

Software & Accessories / Re: Tri Pods!!!!!
« on: March 12, 2013, 09:29:13 PM »
As you found out, none of the cheap tripods are very good.  You need to be even more careful with tripod heads.  There are lower cost tripods in the $100-$200 range from Slik that are of for occasional use on a smaller DSLR and lens, but when you start getting 3 lb lenses, the cheap tripods and heads will not do a very good job.
A head is probably even more important than the legs.  Good tripod systems have separate heads and legs, but sometimes come with a combo deal.  The standard mounting for head to legs is a 5/16 bolt.  don't get one setup for 1/4, its too weak.
The other thing to look at is the camera QR plate system.  Arca Swiss Compatible QR plates are THE standard, Manfroto makes more than one style, so you can end up with one style on one head, and another style on a monopod.  Watch out for this.  You can get a Manfroto head with Arca Swiss compatible QR plate!
 Its best to just buy heads that take Arca Swiss compatible QR plates, this lets you use many different accessories, and you do not have to keep changing plates.  In some cases, you can modify a head, but that's wasting money.
The units recommended by those above will probably be fine, but watch out for the QR plate.

Someone is confused, I commonly save when tethered in canon utility to any drive I want, even to a network location.  I just put a card in my card reader and saved to it as well.
You should have no problems saving to wherever you want.

Speedlites, Printers, Accessories / Re: Batteries or Charger fault?
« on: March 12, 2013, 12:55:52 PM »
As batteries get older, they die by having less capacity.  This means they charge faster and discharge faster.  If you have third party batteries, they commonly die in a month or two. 
In any event, try a new battery.

Here is a interesting interview with Adobe discussing Premiere Pro. and FCP X.  They are quite different in what you can do with them.  Its from Adobe's point of view, but investigate what they say about needing more software to use with FCP X if you want high end audio editing or other features.

It depends on what you need and are willing to spend.

The only reason I'd get a 24-70mmL is for low light, or sharpness wide open.  For landscapes at f/16, you are limited by diffraction, so pretty much any lens will be good.  But, at f/2.8 there is little choice in a zoom.
Another limitation of the 24-70mm L MK II is the very poor IQ at or near MFD (Its awful at f/2.8).  The 24-105mmL is much better in that regard.

Lenses / Re: Bridge not sharp - why?
« on: March 11, 2013, 09:40:04 PM »
Took your invitation to look at the larger pixel peeping image and for some reason that file looks pretty sharp.  The bridge is in focus and there is little evidence of blur.  Check it out and see if you see the same.

If someone else confirms this it would put the culprit in the post processing department.. maybe some kind of image depth or resolution downsizing.  Or maybe noise reduction is loosing the detail.

I looked at it as well, and its not up to expectations, it should be much sharper.  If your images are not sharper, something might be wrong.

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Focus Issue Fixed! Canon 5D Mark III
« on: March 11, 2013, 09:15:49 PM »
I check out a new camera or lens with focal almost immediately.  Its a good tool if used correctly to help determine if there is a issue.
I didn't have a issue with my 5D MK III from the first batch, but Canon was churning them out, so a inexperienced assembler or tester could have let a bunch thru that were not up to snuff. 
Its a software fix, Canon puts the camera on a test fixture tethered to a pc runs the calibration tests, and writes updated parameters into the camera firmware.

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