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Messages - Mt Spokane Photography

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For what it's worth, Canon still used the old system until at least August of this year.  I know as I took delivery recently of an 'L' lens with the date code "UA08xx" which is August, 2012.

It depends.  New lens models seem to have done away with date codes, while existing models still have them.  apparently, Canon is not going to spend money to convert existing lens models to the new system, it will happen by attrition.  The 70-200mm f/2.8L MK II was the first over two years ago.

Pricewatch Deals / Re: Deal: Canon T4i w/18-55 IS from B&H for $599
« on: December 10, 2012, 10:30:38 PM »
Good price, Its pretty obvious that sales are slow.  I'm tempted.

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Am I the only one without 5D3 Problems?
« on: December 10, 2012, 10:28:11 PM »
Its a fact, people do not tend to post if there is no problem.  When a issue arises, be it with their camera or their Bently, they go online to see if someone else if having the issue, and often post about their problem, and they post everywhere that will let them.  Divide by about 10 to account for duplicate posts to start with.

Lenses / Re: Canon 50mm 1.8iii... L... Real or fake?
« on: December 10, 2012, 10:21:57 PM »
Just the original metal mount lens with a red band painted on the front.  I have one without the red band.  I occasionally find them on old used 35mm bodies for little or nothing.
Correction, its a newer 50mm f/1.8 with paint or tape on it.  I have the original metal mount version, and prefer it due to the focus ring, which is much better, its not just a thin band on the front of the lens. There are about 4 or more versions that I've had, the original Japan Version, the first Mark II version made in Japan, another MK II version made in Malaysia, and I recall yet another made elsewhere, but I no longer have a photo of it. I've not had a MK III.



MK II Made in Japan

MK II Made in Malaysia


I am using 5D bodies at present & am looking at upgrading to the 5Dmk111 to provide a better viewing screen for checking exposures & better quality files with upgraded digi 5 processor ,even though my 3x 5D are working perfectly& I'm very happy with results.
       Understanding that if I want to use a CF & SD card to record Full RAW files simultaneously for back up purposes for wedding photography & that the write speed is governed by the slower write speed of the SD card internal canon connection. Does anyone know the resulting frame rate available? & is it really aproblem if I'm not shooting multiple frames.
       Also I'm considering purchasing a "quantum blade battery" for those bright Australian summer beach shoots which drain AA batteries quickly so the flash keeps fully charged while being used heavily for fill flash. I think I prefer the blade to clip on & cable styles so the camera remains unattached to me . I have heard the blade causes interference on the 5D & I heard rumors some folks have had flash failures/burnout due to the constant power causing overheating ext, any opinions or experiences would be much welcomed B4 I spend any money. Thanks Pete
Don't use the screen to check exposures, use the histogram. 
The frame rate will not suffer until the buffer is filled, then it will take a longer time to empty the buffer.
Unless you are machine gunning everything in site hoping to get a keeper, you should be fine.  One shot usually works for me, but I usually take a second one just to be sure.  Even for sports, you can learn to time things right just as pro photographers did for many many years.

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Only 1 lens
« on: December 10, 2012, 09:00:58 PM »
Canon has some really good deals on refurb power shot cameras right now.  Nothing wrong with a G12 for $279 or a S100 for $229 if they can do the job. Do what you have to do to take care of finances.
Maybe a T3i kit for $450.

EOS Bodies / Re: 6D or 5D3 (or wait for 7d2?)
« on: December 10, 2012, 05:41:34 PM »
a 1/2 stop improvement for a new model is typical, do not expect 1 stop or more in a 7D MK II unless they go to a rear illuminated sensor.  They are very near the limit that their current technology permits.  There is only limited space for wiring to run between photosites, and making the wiring smaller is not a option, the voltage floats too high and crosstalk results in a poor image.
Rear illuminated sensors allow larger wiring and that allows you to boost the sensitivity of the photosites with less noise.

Software & Accessories / Re: What is the SD card speed required for 6d?
« on: December 10, 2012, 05:35:53 PM »
I'd get a card with a minimum write speed of 20mb/sec.
WATCH OUT.  Read the specs.  Write speeds are 1/3 and less of the card speed, which uses read speeds.
EXAMPLE:  $70 SANDISK 45 mb/sec card has a 10mb/sec minimum read speed!
The 64GB SDXC Memory Card Extreme Class 10 from SanDisk is a high-performance memory card. It improves upon the previous version's 30 MB/s max read / write speed by offering faster 45 MB/s performance. Minimum write speed is still 10 MB/s. These data rates get you ready for the next shot faster, and cut down on wait time when you're transferring your work from card to PC.

Get the 95mb/sec card that was recommended, and you'll get at least 20-30mb/sec minimum write speeds.  Max write speeds don't count for me.

Why didn't Neuro figure this out :)
I'll have to check my lenses.

Lighting / Re: Led + Camera = Compass ( home experiment ) DISCOVERY
« on: December 10, 2012, 04:54:38 PM »
Its not clear why you are posting this, or what you want Canon to do. 
Its clear that you are a innovative thinker, and thats good, you refer to patents, but give no patent numbers. 
Lasers have been used to determine aircraft speeds since the 1980's, for example, but its much less expensive and more accurate now to use GPS. How would your method work better and cost less than a GPS Unit, which not only gives speed, but position, direction, and altitude for a very low cost.

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: CompactFlash vs SDXC (Effectively 5D3 vs 6D)
« on: December 10, 2012, 04:31:07 PM »
My concerns about speed were generally unfounded.

I just tested my memory cards for speed:
Card TypeCard Write SpeedCard Read Speed
SD - SanDisk 16GB Extreme Pro UHS-1 95MBps70.5MBps87.5MBps
SD - Transcend UHS-1 32GB35.0MBps84.5MBps
CF - Transcend 16GB 600x26.9MBps78.7MBps

The SD UHS-1 cards truly surprised me!  I also learned that the SDXC readers in Retina MacBook Pro's are direct to the logic board and transfer at 2.5GT/s, which is well into the GB/s range.  The old MacBook Pro's used to have their SDXC readers attached to the USB 2.0 bus, so they were limited to a theoretical maximum of 60MBps.

I'm quite happy with new SDHC cards!
Was the test done in a Mac or a camera?  There is no way a SD card will operate that fast in a 5D MK III, maybe a 6D.
Test methods can make a huge difference in file transfer speed.  The  fastest speed is usually by transfering very large files, 1GB for example.  The file format of the card can allow higher speeds as well, because compression rates vary.
Transfering a large number of jpeg files will be slower.

Lenses / Re: Problem with EF-S 10-22mm Image Softness
« on: December 10, 2012, 04:18:47 PM »
Asymmetrical loss of sharpness is usually due to decentering of one (or more) lens elements.  Canon can certainly correct the problem, not sure of the cost (depends on the severity), but figure $200 more or less.
You can test for decentering.  Use a flat brick wall, make certain you are setup absolutely perpendicular to it.  Rotate the camera at 90 degree increments, taking images at each.  It the soft area rotates with the image, send it to Canon with a description of the issue.
Decentering happens as a lens is used, there can be various internal causes, usually related to bumping the lens. Canon will replace any damaged parts, and realign things. The cost may vary depending on the parts and labor required.
When buying a used lens, its a good idea to check for decentering since its so common.

EOS Bodies / Re: Memory Cards--What is the absolute best?
« on: December 10, 2012, 04:10:32 PM »
I have used SanDisc cards since I switched from film to digital cameras.  I shoot a 1Dx and a MKIV.....what is the absolute best card that I can put in my cameras?
It all depends on what the term best means to you.  You do not always get all the attributes you want.
Most reliable ?
Low Cost?
High Reliability and high speed cards exist for industrial, military, and aeropace applications, but they tend to cost more.  Some might call them the best, but it depends on your application.  Buying into metal frames and burn-in is expensive.
For example:

Lenses / Re: Nikkor Vs L Lens
« on: December 09, 2012, 11:28:10 PM »
Generally, the new MK II Canon lenses are far sharper, lighter, and just plain better.  That does not make the Nikon lenses bad, they are very good.  With lenses, it cost a huge amount to gain a relatively small increase in performance.  Production of the top lenses is state of the art, and tolerances are so small that they can't be measured, they have to use indirect means to determine the accuracy of the grinding, and even then, they fit the elements by trial and error until they get a combination that gives the desired result.
Thats why we do not see low cost lenses from China that match the high end lenses.  We eventually will, but, for now, Only a few companies make relatively affordable super telephoto lenses.  There are better ones made for military lenses, but the cost makes a high end Nikon or Canon lens look dirt cheap.

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: 5D Mark III Frustrated Focusing problem
« on: December 09, 2012, 11:17:15 PM »
When you get into FF sensors, you will get a much shallower depth of field than with a small sensor camera.  With a point and shoot camera, for example, almost everything tends to be in focus.  That makes them easy to use and get sharp in-focus shots.
With a FF DSLR, photographers use the ability to have a shallow depth of field to isolate a subject and have things in the background be out of focus.
However, there are times when you want as much as possible to be in focus, landscapes, or groups of people.  In cases like this, you must use small apertures, f/8, f/11, even f/16.
Setup your camera and take several shots focusing on something fairly close with a few different apertures and you will see the difference in background focus.
Then, step back a ways and do the same thing.  Notice that the depth of field is greater when you are back from your subject.
Use a combination of these techniques to control what is in focus.

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