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Messages - Mt Spokane Photography

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EOS Bodies / Re: got a 5d mark iii offer for 2980, jump in or not?
« on: November 09, 2012, 09:00:57 PM »
If its a local dealer, go ahead.  Right now, the loowest is $2910 from a unauthorized dealer.
Last year, B&H had 10% off cameras and lenses for black friday or cyber Monday.  It was just for a few hours.  There are always Black Friday sales on cameras, but you are unlikely to save all that much.

Lenses / Re: Smart purchase or not?
« on: November 09, 2012, 02:01:34 PM »
I have the 17-40L. Bought mine new some time ago and just recently noticed that all my images are a little soft on the right side of the image at 17mm. The rest is tac sharp.

I've heard others complain about this as well. I plan on taking it in to get it looked at. You may want to check the edges, just to make sure...

Thats a typical symptom of decentering.  You can check it by rotating the camera to different angles and seeing if the problem remains in the same relative side of the image.

Software & Accessories / Re: Photoshop/camera raw VS Lightroom
« on: November 09, 2012, 01:57:37 PM »
Lightroom is designed for photographers and has the tools most often used for photographs.  Photoshop is more powerful with its advanced tools and layers, but also more difficult to learn and use.
I seldom use it unless a photo needs some really heavy duty enhancement or some more sophisticated editing.
I'd recommend Lightroom unless you are really going to be spending hours each day in Photoshop adjusting images for magazine publication, creating composites, HDR, etc.

Pricewatch Deals / Re: Adorama G1X Deal - $399 net
« on: November 09, 2012, 01:52:53 PM »
Adorama has a combo deal for the G1X, it includes the camera, printer, and adobe software for a net price of $399 after $400 rebate.
I've been looking for the price to drop to something reasonable.
If I sell the printer and software, its a better deal yet.

And buy the 250D closeup lens to have that missing macro.  There's also one from Kenko and Hoya.

I've had one, I will not hang one of those on a P&S lens again.  Those cheapo plastic gears can barely take a slight bump without something hanging on the end.
The G1X finally arrived last night, it was delayed a few days by the storm in new jersey.  I took a couple of test shots in the house, and found it to be much more capable than our G11.
I took a image of the G11, this was about as close as I could focus with a first try, I need to brush up on its actual close focus procedure to make sure I'm not missing something.
Autofocus seemed to be very s-l-o-w, but might improve in better light.
The image was under some poor incandesent light so the color varies, its much better under flourescent lighting. The shadows look pinkish after uploading the image, I could edit that some more, but its just a test shot, and one of the first 3 or 4.

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Extenders with 5d3
« on: November 09, 2012, 01:37:10 PM »
Get a 1.4X with the 100-400L.  Its manual focus only with the 2X, and IQ takes a bigger hit.  You not only have less light with a 2X, but need a faster shutter speed than with the 1.4X.  Cropping a 1.4X image is pretty much equivalent.

Lenses / Re: 50mm
« on: November 09, 2012, 01:34:10 PM »
You did not say what you would use it for, or if you would be a heavy duty user or ligh user.  There is not a huge difference in image quality between a cheap 50mm f/1.8 and a $750 lens.  For the most part, you are paying for a wider aperture, improved construction, and faster autofocus.
If you are only going to use the lens occasionally, get the Canon 50mm f/1.8.  However, if you want to use manual focus one of the others will be better, the Zeiss being much easier to manually focus.  However, with manual focus, you run into other issues like the viewfinder size, focus screen type, etc.
Another thing to understand is that lenses perform differently on APS-C and Full Frame bodies.  The Sigma 50mm f/1.4 is optimized for Crop bodies, while the Canon 50mm f/1.4 is optimized for use on FF bodies and has better IQ on FF than the Sigma does. 

Speedlites, Printers, Accessories / Re: AA Battery Charger and Batteries
« on: November 09, 2012, 01:23:06 PM »
Don't buy 15-minute or 1-hour chargers!

As somebody has already posted, you want to charge at ~500ma or thereabouts, no faster.
Actually, there are some fast chargers that are good.    Its the cheap ones that just pour on the current and badly overheat your battery that are a problem.  10 or 20 or a few more recharges before a battery dies is not uncommon with them.  Then users blame the batteries.
I'd recommend the MH-C801D charger, and it's a 1 hour charger.

Lighting / Re: Birds with Better Beamer & sync times
« on: November 09, 2012, 12:58:53 PM »
I find that I just let it synch at 1/200 for still wildlife shots.  The flash will freeze any slight movements.  However, if something is moving and you need a high shutter speed, use HSS.
Here is a 400mm image using the better beamer on a bird drinking, so he was moving.  My 1D MK III synchs at 1/300 sec.
Tv 1/300 sec, ISO 200, f/14 (set by camera) 100-400mmL

Software & Accessories / Re: LR noise reduction in comparison to DPP
« on: November 09, 2012, 12:50:12 PM »

Yeah Brain-Check at my side considering the first point, I didn't know that the DPP "recipe" would be ignored by LR, and vice-versa too probably.
Cheers Brian
I believe that, when in DPP, you click export to Photoshop, a tif file with your DPP edits baked in, will be opened in Photoshop with the edits.
If you use the original cr2 file in Lightroom or Photoshop, you won't see the DPP edits.
Its a subtle difference that depends on the method you use to get a file to Lightroom, if you send it as a tif file it will have DPP edits baked in.

One there rumor of a new version of the 50L in the works?  I'm coming to the understanding that the current design, is getting a bit, wondering if there is a new one coming out in the relatively near future?

It's a 2007 lens, which is relatively quite recent.  I would not expect an update anytime soon...

+1  "A bit old" means ~20 years for "L" lenses.  Development and tooling costs for a upgraded lens is very high, so we only see new versions more frequently for the high volume lenses where the tooling can be paid for in a reasonable time.  The big whites were upgraded after 10 years, but the high cost of the re- tooling which is recovered over a relatively small number of units, was added to the price.  This creates a bit of a sticker shock.

Lenses / Re: Smart purchase or not?
« on: November 09, 2012, 12:22:03 PM »
It really depends on the price of the used lens.
Decentered elements cannot be seen, but commonly occur in used zooms, and having it adjusted at Canon might cost you $200-300.  Make sure you allow for that, or negotiate return rights after you test it.  If you are not able to test a used lens, you might not see a definite problem, but may just be unhappy with it and think you selected the wrong lens.  Maybe thats the case for the seller?
A refurb is $671 at Canon, and you can return it if its not right, and has a 90 day warranty.  Canon will likely have a 20% off sale around Black Friday, so a used one with no warranty is worth less than $537 IMHO.

Is it a new computer, or did you upgrade?  Sometimes upgrades cause issues like this, but it should be working on a new installation.

Technical Support / Re: Missing Images from 5D Mark III CF Card
« on: November 08, 2012, 08:54:26 PM »
Usually missing images are a issue with a card reader that does not recognize udma7 or some other incompatability.
Put the CF card in the camera and see if the images are really there.  A number of people have had issues with their card readers and udma 7 cards.  Apparently one of the early usb3 readers had issues and a firmware update fixes it.

Lenses / Re: New 24-70 II, maybe AFMA will help?
« on: November 08, 2012, 08:49:43 PM »
Old Shooter & Mt Spokane:

I have been looking at getting FoCal, my hold up has been that I don't own a tripod and I'm not sure I need one other than for this. Perhaps, it's time to rent one, though :)

Thanks, everyone.


Shawn L.
The purpose of using a tripod is merely to remove the possibility of camera movement as well as making sure that all the test shots are taken from the same place and the same angle.
You might be able to construct something using a 1/4-20 bolt to attach the camera, but it might be more trouble than its worth.
If you can borrow a good tripod and head, that might be ideal.  Sometimes you can find one locally from Craigslist.  If you get a cheap one, hang a weight under the center to stabilize it, a camera bag full of lenses works well.  You can usually screw a hook into the bottom of the center column. 

What I don't get is how this focus shift happens.

Wide open and focussed, all the rays passing through all parts of the lens focus (I think this is a pretty sharp lens?) to a sharp point on the sensor plane.  Occlude some of the rays by stopping down the iris and the unoccluded rays seem to have their paths changed so they focus off the sensor plane.

Don't see how that could happen - maybe there's something different going on.  Can soemone educate me on that?
It occurrs on all lenses, but the construction of the 50mmL and the wide aperture makes it a little more apparent.  You cam mitigate it once you know whats happening and why.
"Focus shift is a displacement of the sharp plane of focus when the lens is focused wide open, but the image is made with            the lens stopped down.
Quite literally, the optimal plane of focus moves, depending on aperture! With every lens I’ve tested to date, the focus moves farther            away. For example, if focus at f/1.4 is centered at 1.00 meters, then by f/2.8 it might now be centered at 1.02 meters. That apparently small            difference means sparkling-sharp eyes versus not-quite-there eyes—it matters, especially with high-resolution digital cameras.
Focus shift is caused by spherical aberration (see for            an excellent technical discussion). Instead of a sharply-focused point of light a spherically aberrated lens produces a point of            light with a “halo”. This is visually confusing when focusing by eye (because of the lowered contrast) making it difficult to            find optimal focus. It also is confusing to autofocus systems. In spite of these issues, accurate focus can generally be obtained—but            it’s no longer accurate when the lens is stopped down."

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