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Messages - Mt Spokane Photography

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4816
Lenses / Re: 24-70 versus 24-105 AF performance
« on: November 28, 2012, 01:35:27 PM »
I have bought and sold five of the 24-70mm L lenses, none could match my 24-105L.  Many used ones on the market need repair, they are easily decentered and the guide bushings that support the telescoping part of the lens break and jam and then the lens stops focusing accurately.
 
If you get one, plan on sending it to be repaired, since many selling used ones don't recognize the subtle problems, they just know that they want something better.  This means allowing $350 or so in the price you pay.  Obviously, if the lens has just returned from a Canon servicing, that would be better, but I'd then wonder if Canon was unable to put it into the condition that the owner expected, so he is dumping it.
 
The worst MK II is better than the best MK I in lens rental testing, and they are better constructed.  Thats something to consider.
Also note that the IQ of the Tamron 24-70 IS is better than the Canon MK I, so for the price, I'd prefer it.
 
For walking around in fair to good light, its hard to beat a 24-105mmL.  Again, there are good and bad, so if buying used do not accept lens creep, and plan on a trip to Canon for checkout and repair.  New 24-105mm L's from kits can be found for under $800, I paid $700 locally a few years back.

4817
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: T3i vs T4i for first dslr
« on: November 28, 2012, 01:20:28 PM »
Thanks for all the input.
I have decided on the t4i with the 18-135.
Now will look around to see what's available used in 50 or 60d and compare to new t4i.
I don't mind buying used but am skeptical buying something used that I don't know a lot about.
I'd get the 18-135mm STM, its a superior lens as far as Image quality goes, and while AF might not be super in video, it does work, so it is possible to take a video of a kids soccor game as long as you are zoomed out a little.  You would need a additional person to pull focus with the T3i, and even then it would be impossible to keep sharp focus on clooseup shots of fast and erratic moving subjects.
Lots of people buy a DSLR to use as a camcorder, but end up disappointed.  Its great for serious well planned and controlled video.

4818
I also had to restart the PC after updating.
:) this is a given! We are talking about MS OS...
I mentioned the restart because it is so unusual for Windows.  however, if a new software version replaces a version already in memory, a restart is necessary. 
BTW, I loved my Mac, but I do have a much larger array of software that works on my pc, and for someone who knows what they are doing, problems are rare.  One of the concerns I had about Windows 8 was using the new UI, but after a couple of hours, I am already getting proficient.  Using start8 allows me to hit the left windows key to go to the old UI and start menu if I get stuck, while the right Windows key takes me back to Metro.
I've yet to figure out a simple way to exit from metro Apps, but haven't spent the time since I am busy loading software, and I have a ton of it.
I also want to clone my HD to a SSD, but I can't work on that right away.

4819
Lenses / Re: Canon are obsessed with an IS version of the 24-70
« on: November 28, 2012, 12:57:55 PM »
If a typo sets a person off, they might be obsessed with IS :)

4820
Lenses / Re: Visualising focal length perception.
« on: November 28, 2012, 12:56:03 PM »
For a FF body, around 50mm gives the best perception.  On a crop body, about 30mm is equivalent.
If you are back far enough to get a group in the image, say 20 ft, the depth of field is going to be very deep.
http://www.dofmaster.com/doftable.html
 
Examples: for a distance of 20 feet:
Canon 5D MK III 50mm f/4:  In focus from 15' 6" to 28' 2"
Canon 7D 28mm f/4: Iin focus from 12'  7" to 48" 7"

4821
EOS Bodies / Re: 60D or t4i?
« on: November 28, 2012, 12:13:34 AM »
I'm new to CR and I know people have asked this question a lot but every post I've looked at fails to answer the basics:(

I'm budget conscious but will spend the extra buck if it will make a difference. I currently have an old rebel, which doesn't really do much but was a good starter DSLR. I now want to upgrade. I am a journalist and am looking to shoot photos and videos in various contexts. I was settled on the 60D honestly because it sounds professional and because I found a good deal on the body. I did come across the t4i, which some people say is an upgrade from the 60D despite still being a rebel. Here are some of things that matter to me:

1)I hear the 60D is sealed against bad weather. Does this matter and is the t4i sealed as well?
2)Auto focus on video? Do both of these cameras have that?
3)I heard that the t4i is new and thus there could be things wrong with it that Canon will fix later on. Does this matter?
4) I'm a petite girl and I know the t4i is lighter. I'm confortable with the heavier 60D, but is weight a big factor when shooting for a while?
5) Battery life, LCDs, is the touch screen a good thing? Anyone use it?

This is probably not the place but also dont know much about lenses. Can anyone recommend good, not too expensive, zoom lens and standard lens?

Thank you!
Lenses are by far more important than the body, and they can cost a lot more too.
As a journalist, you are going to have to deal with tough lighting conditions and bad weather, as you already know.
Since you are weight conscious, you might want to pass on a good used 1D MK IIN, which would be ideal at the price.
So So take your pick of bodies, but get as good of lenses as you can afford.  Consider the 17-55 f/2.8 and give that priority over spending money on a expensive new body.
Add a 85mm f/1.8 to that and you will have good glass.
Then, get a refurb 60D if you have enough left.  Otherwise, get the lenses and keep your rebel.
http://shop.usa.canon.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10051_10051_276387_-1

4822
Lenses / Re: With my 5D MK III is an f/2.8 lens really needed???
« on: November 28, 2012, 12:02:09 AM »
In extreme low light, I switch to primes, because I find that f/2.8 does not quite make it for many shots.
I use my 35mmL, 50mm f/1.4, 85mm f/1.8, and 135mm f/2. 
I could use a f/2.8 lens at ISO 12800, but I prefer a lower ISO setting unlless I'm really in a bind.  As it is, a few shots will always end up at f/1.4 and ISO 12800 thats ok when its just a few.
I tried using my 24-105mmL for a few images last year, it was a exercise in fuzzy images shot at too low of a shutter speed.  My subjects move, so IS doesn't stop motion, and flash is banned in a theatre.
I'd recommend sticking to a minimum of f/2.8, but you know best how much light you have.
Here is one when I was trying out a D800 and the f/2.8 lens was as fast as I had.  Its ISO 6400 with a ton of nr, and losing a lot of detail.  Fortunately, the D800 had a lot of detail, so it wasn't too bad.

 
My 1D MK IV at ISO 12800 and f/1.8
 

 
 

4823
I just got around to setting up my Windows 8 pc today, and tried Focal and my 5D MK III.  I did have to update to the latest Canon utilities version, 2.12 and then it worked fine.  It did not work with 2.11.
I also had to restart the PC after updating.
I installed Stardock "Start8" as a test to get back the Windows 7 UI and Start Menu.  That works nicely.  It does cost $5.  I'm still using the trial, but I'll most certainly buy it.  I also use fences from Stardock to organize the 50 or more icons on my desktop.
 

4824
Lenses / Re: Unable to AFMA 70-200mm 2.8 is II
« on: November 27, 2012, 11:31:16 PM »

Don't forget that the viewfinder has a diopter adjustment......
The diopter adjustment has nothing to do with the camera AF.  It does help you see the focus screen sharply, but it does not matter where it's set as far as camera AF is concerned.

4825
EOS Bodies / Re: When will we have a full frame body below $1,000?
« on: November 27, 2012, 03:11:52 PM »
is about $350-$450 max.  The APS-C sensors likely now cost $20 to make.

You're quite misinformed if you think sensors are that cheap. Think $1k for full frame and $100-200 for APS-C. Again, it's REALLY HARD to make huge chips with no imperfections. A single dust speck or mistimed/mismeasured fabrication step is much more expensive for a full frame process where only a few chips fit on a wafer than on APS-C, which fit many more. Every possible cost is squared and then some when building big chips.

I am not mis-informed, I have a ton of experience in electronics manufacturing and the costs to do so.
Canon has improved processes and switched to 12 in wafers which, along with improved high resistivity wafer manufacturing process technology has vastly improved the yield. Its why the cost of FF bodies has dropped.
However, you only need to work backward from the selling price to become aware that the direct cost to manufacture a Camera is far less than the selling cost.
The direct cost is the actual cost of the parts, and the labor to assemble them.
 
Selling Price:
less Rebates
less Dealer markup
Less Canon North America  Profit
Less Canon Japan Profit
Less Canon Warehousing / Inventory Costs including wages, taxes, facility cost, etc
Less a allowance for Service (Canon Repair facilty & warranty Costs)
Less Losses for broken, damaged, stolen items
Less insurance, both liability and catastrophic damage insurance
less shipping costs
Less Advertising Costs
Less Amortized Tooling Costs
Less R&D
Less amortized Development costs
 
I'm only roughly touching some of the costs of doing business beyone what it actually takes to assemble a product, which is why the final selling price tends to be a multiple of the actual direct manufacturing cost. 
 

4826
Sorry but I think you are all incorrect.

No where do I find in Canon's warranty that it will not warranty an item from an unauthorized reseller.
There are benifits of buying an item form an authorized seller, but it doesn't have anything to do with the enforcment of the warranty;

An quote from the 5D III's warranty;

"Canon U.S.A., Inc. and Canon Canada Inc. (collectively "Canon") warrant to the original end-user purchaser, when delivered in new condition in its original container"

A reseller that is not authorized is not the end user, and the warranty does not end or start with him. He would not meet the legal definition of the end user.

Here is the warranty link, I am at work now so couldn't go over it with a fine tooth comb but I find nothing that limits this;

http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/support/consumer/eos_slr_camera_systems/eos_digital_slr_cameras/eos_5d_mark_iii#ServiceAndSupport

If there is other information about Canon not honoring a warranty from an unauthorized reseller then please provide it. I do mean printed material released from Canon, not forum hear say.
Did you read the original post?  He called Canon and they consider Big Value to be the original buyer.  Canon is the one who intreprets their contract and decides if it qualifies for service.
 
You might spend $250,000 in a law suit in a attempt to prove your point, but most people wouldn't want to spend $300, since they can buy a warranty for that.

4827
Agreed its somewhat deceptive by stating Canon USA Warranty when its not...
I totally understand anyone hesitant to by from them but IMO I was lucky to score one at the $2499 price...

I agree it was a good price even with no warranty. The thing that was so goofy about them making the false claim it had a Canon USA warranty is that at the $2499 price point, I would buy the camera AND their $300 warranty if the deal were clearly labeled as grey market. And since that equates to a little over 10% discount over retail of $3200 I guarantee they would have still sold out PLUS sold a bunch of warranties.

But at the current $2900 plus $300 for the warranty plus the deceptive trade practice, when I can buy from a top tier reseller for the same price, BigValueInc is a complete AVOID in my book...

They are not gray market bodies (as being imported from another country).  They are USA models which were bought from a Authorized Dealer either because the dealer was pinched for cash, as many now are, or in a under the table deal to increase the sales volume of the authorized dealer so that he meets sales targets necessary to earn a incentive.
Both the buyer, the authorized dealer, and the customer are winners.  Canon also sells a few more cameras and keeps workers employeed in Japan.  Its hard to identify a loser.

4828
On your 5D MK III, you must set the following option.
Go to Cnf2 Display /operation screen in the menu.
Select Custom controls
Scroll down to the multi controller and set it to control the AF point.  Its turned off by default.
That should do it.

4829
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Technical novice upgrading to EOS 5D?
« on: November 27, 2012, 02:19:29 PM »
My 30D had wonderful IQ, so if yours doesn't, your camera or likely lens is the issue. 
Some of the new Sigma lenses will have AF fine tuning (they really needed that), and will work great on bodies with no AFMA.
The 5D MK II will be a big step up, and you will love it.  You will want a longer lens to get the same FOV, the 24-105mmL is ideal for that.
The 5D MK II has very good and accurate AF with the center point, even in very low light.  However, don't bother with tracking or outer AF points.
 

4830
Lenses / Re: Believe it or not, 5D3 user misses the 300D reach...
« on: November 27, 2012, 02:08:35 PM »
I ended up selling my 7D merely because I got better real world IQ with the 5D MK III. 
When photographing moving wildlife in lower light at 400mm with a 7D, I needed 1/1000 sec shutter, and very high ISO which ate up the detail.  With the 5D MK II, I can set the high ISO and not lose as much detail, so when all is said and done, the Image IQ is better.
You can AF with a 7D or 5D MK II / III at f/8 with a Kenko 1.4X TC, so in really good light, the 7D does have a slight advantage, I just was seldom in that situation.

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