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Messages - Mt Spokane Photography

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Lenses / Re: Problem with EF-S 10-22mm Image Softness
« on: December 10, 2012, 04:18:47 PM »
Asymmetrical loss of sharpness is usually due to decentering of one (or more) lens elements.  Canon can certainly correct the problem, not sure of the cost (depends on the severity), but figure $200 more or less.
You can test for decentering.  Use a flat brick wall, make certain you are setup absolutely perpendicular to it.  Rotate the camera at 90 degree increments, taking images at each.  It the soft area rotates with the image, send it to Canon with a description of the issue.
Decentering happens as a lens is used, there can be various internal causes, usually related to bumping the lens. Canon will replace any damaged parts, and realign things. The cost may vary depending on the parts and labor required.
When buying a used lens, its a good idea to check for decentering since its so common.

EOS Bodies / Re: Memory Cards--What is the absolute best?
« on: December 10, 2012, 04:10:32 PM »
I have used SanDisc cards since I switched from film to digital cameras.  I shoot a 1Dx and a MKIV.....what is the absolute best card that I can put in my cameras?
It all depends on what the term best means to you.  You do not always get all the attributes you want.
Most reliable ?
Low Cost?
High Reliability and high speed cards exist for industrial, military, and aeropace applications, but they tend to cost more.  Some might call them the best, but it depends on your application.  Buying into metal frames and burn-in is expensive.
For example:  http://delkinoem.com/compactflash-high-performance-extended-temp.html#tab-4

Lenses / Re: Nikkor Vs L Lens
« on: December 09, 2012, 11:28:10 PM »
Generally, the new MK II Canon lenses are far sharper, lighter, and just plain better.  That does not make the Nikon lenses bad, they are very good.  With lenses, it cost a huge amount to gain a relatively small increase in performance.  Production of the top lenses is state of the art, and tolerances are so small that they can't be measured, they have to use indirect means to determine the accuracy of the grinding, and even then, they fit the elements by trial and error until they get a combination that gives the desired result.
Thats why we do not see low cost lenses from China that match the high end lenses.  We eventually will, but, for now, Only a few companies make relatively affordable super telephoto lenses.  There are better ones made for military lenses, but the cost makes a high end Nikon or Canon lens look dirt cheap.

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: 5D Mark III Frustrated Focusing problem
« on: December 09, 2012, 11:17:15 PM »
When you get into FF sensors, you will get a much shallower depth of field than with a small sensor camera.  With a point and shoot camera, for example, almost everything tends to be in focus.  That makes them easy to use and get sharp in-focus shots.
With a FF DSLR, photographers use the ability to have a shallow depth of field to isolate a subject and have things in the background be out of focus.
However, there are times when you want as much as possible to be in focus, landscapes, or groups of people.  In cases like this, you must use small apertures, f/8, f/11, even f/16.
Setup your camera and take several shots focusing on something fairly close with a few different apertures and you will see the difference in background focus.
Then, step back a ways and do the same thing.  Notice that the depth of field is greater when you are back from your subject.
Use a combination of these techniques to control what is in focus.

Technical Support / Re: How to AFMA precisely without Lenscal?
« on: December 08, 2012, 12:19:55 PM »
As noted above, there are plenty of free focus charts, and plenty of gotchas as well.
I've found two major areas to be careful of.
1.  Use a test method that absolutely ensures that you are focused correctly.  just putting the AF spot on a number on a sloped ruler almost guarantees that it will focus differenly every time.
2.  It is very difficult to see tiny differences in focus sharpness, and you can misjudge the proper setting easily.
Other things to watch out for are proper alignment to a target.  If you are not perpendicular and level, thats going to give you some error.
One way to check to see if adjustment is reasonably achieved is to put the camera on a sturdy tripod, focus on the target, and then use live view and live AF to see if focus improves noticably.  Live Autofocus is slow, but almost always perfect.

Quite interesting! I think the next generation crop cameras, with the 7DII as the first to be released are gonna have an entire new generation sensors. I dont think Canon dare to release a pro crop camera with the worn out 18mp sensor. That is why it is taking so long.
Some people think that all 18 mp sensors are the same, even though they obviously are not.  If Nikon uses a 18mp semsor, will it be a old worn out Canon sensor?  What about the Nikon D4, its 16mp, must be a old worn out sensor from the Canon 1DS MK II?

Speedlites, Printers, Accessories / Re: AFMA - 5D3
« on: December 07, 2012, 08:38:28 PM »
my old Lens align is gathering dust.

I just sold mine, actually.
I have mine listed on Craigs locally, but have not had any interest so far.  I may just put it up on ebay.

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Would switching to FF hurt my macro??
« on: December 07, 2012, 08:33:54 PM »
I preferred my 7D to my 5D MK II for Macro, but it was not enough to keep me from selling the 7D after getting my 5D MK III.  The 7D went virtually unused.

EOS Bodies / Re: Issues with aftermarket batteries with Canon 6D
« on: December 07, 2012, 12:26:41 PM »
Just like flash units, newer models have different firmware and non canon equipment may have incorrectly reverse engineered the old equipment.  Sigma had the problem big time when DSLR's came out.

Canon redesigned the flash system to accept up to 250 volts, so you are safe with Cameras released after the 10D and  almost all flash units.  I'd still stick to those 200v or less, or use the Wein unit.
Here is the forum thread that Canon Tech Guru Chuck Westfall confirms that all newer Digital rebels have a 250v rating.
Chuck Westfall, Director/Media & Customer Relationship, Canon USA, advises as follows regarding the flash sync circuit of the EOS Digital Rebel XT (EOS 350D):

The EOS Digital Rebel XT uses a modified version of the EOS 20D's shutter unit. Consequently, acceptable trigger circuit voltage for both cameras is the same, i.e., 250 volts. Except for the original Digital Rebel, all current EOS digital SLRs (i.e., EOS-1Ds Mark II, EOS-1D Mark II, EOS 20D and EOS Digital Rebel XT) generate their X-sync signals electronically rather than mechanically. This is why they have higher acceptable trigger circuit voltage ratings than earlier models like the D30, D60, 10D and original Digital Rebel. These older models cannot be modified to achieve a higher trigger circuit voltage rating, since such a modification would require a different shutter mechanism as well as a complete redesign of the supporting circuitry.

Read the entire thread here.  Scroll down to see Chucks confirmation of this.

Third Party Manufacturers / Re: Kudos Sigma warranty
« on: December 07, 2012, 12:04:02 PM »
Sigma does seem to have cleaned up their warranty act.  Now, they need to incluse a free shipping label with each lens, so buyers can send it in to be adjusted. Everyone who checks seems to find a issue.
Supposedly, new models will have user adjustable AFMA, but they will charge for the tool to do that as well.

Speedlites, Printers, Accessories / Re: AFMA - 5D3
« on: December 07, 2012, 12:00:49 PM »
FoCal is the way to go, if you purchase the basic version, you can always pay the difference to upgrade.  my old Lens align is gathering dust.

Pricewatch Deals / Canon 24-70mm f/2.8L MK II on Sale
« on: December 07, 2012, 11:55:19 AM »
Beach Camera /Buydig .com has the lens for $2199.  You must add it to the cart to see the price.  I suspect that other stores would match the deal if you call them.

The test might be useful as a comparison between models, but there is no measured or controlled light level or color temperature. There is no reason to believe that different camera models respond the same to different color temperatures, so a standard temperature removes any arguement about that.  Measurements at various color temperatures might be interesting for comparison sake.
As to time to focus, its not clear as to how that was measured, I did not notice the methodology.  I have found the best way to get to focus is to merely press the shutter button all the way down while the camera is in one shot mode.  The camera will take the shot when focus is achieved.  Some cameras seem to delay turning on the AF light, but the camera is actually focused earlier.  A sensitive mike connected to a oscilloscope can record the shutter button press, and the shutter opening so you get a precise measurement, for example.

Lenses / Re: Rebates
« on: December 05, 2012, 11:39:16 PM »
It's been my experience that Canon "rebates" are fake, in that they save you no money. When I was buying my 7D + 18-135mm kit, a $300 rebate did not change the price. Same for the 70-200mm f4 is usm I just bought. Before the rebate the price on Amazon was $1200. Once the $150 rebate started, Amazon showed an MSRP or $1350 and sold it for $1200. The "rebate" wasn't a rebate. It was a marketing ploy to make people think the price has been lowered, when in reality, its the same price as before the rebate.
Now that Canon has MAP Pricing, the Rebates are real.  Canon has always required that Rebates be given based on the MSRP, and, in the past,  that has indeed resulted in higher prices at discount stores. 
However, thats not the case any more.
$2099 for a 70-200mm MKII lens is a good deal, but I bet I can find one either for less, or in a package deal before the end of the year.

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