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Messages - Mt Spokane Photography

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Lenses / Re: 28-300 L lens- thoughts?
« on: May 30, 2012, 11:54:02 PM »
I bought one locally on Craigslist for $1500.  It is a good lens, but with that long zoom range, there are compromises.
I sold it because it was too heavy, and I needed to fund my new 5D MK III.  Actually, I used it a bit on my MK III and then sold it before the credit card bill came due.  i'd recommend it with no qualms.
Here is a 100% cropped image taken with the 5DMK III at 300mm f/5.6.  Bokeh is not the greatest, but its ok.

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Considering an EOS 35mm (film) body
« on: May 30, 2012, 11:42:19 PM »
The thing to watch out for on ebay is the guy who was given a camera found stashed away in grandpa's closet for 15 years, and has no clue as to whether it works or not.
Get one from sombody who has tested it and gives you return rights if it doesn't work.  Pay with a credit card, and, if the deal goes sour, you can charge back as a last resort.

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Advice for checking a used 5Dmk2
« on: May 30, 2012, 03:27:39 PM »
After watching some interesting bits in a local camera store - sales guy with an xacto knife near the exposed sensor - taking my sensor loop is a good start.  Also taking a few shots of a blue sky at f22 to see if anything else is impacting things.  Burst mode shots, AI Servo shots.

Any publicly available 'stolen gear' list I can check?  A box is a sure sign of a proper sale - but last thing I want to do is pick up a stolen one.

You can usually tell a stolen camera, they do not give you a address and do not have the original box, manuals, receipts etc, just what they grabbed out of someone's car or residence.
I'd recommend buying a refurb with warranty, or a new one while the Canon discount is going.  $1400 for refurbs using the Canon CLP when they have them.

Lenses / Re: Proper way to set down gripped camera
« on: May 30, 2012, 03:17:58 PM »
Its not going to damage the lens mount, its much stronger than that.  Just make sure its stable, falling over isn't good for it.  A good carry strap is best, but is not always a practical thing in some situations.

4.1 was released today.

Just did a couple of test shots outside with my 24-105. I used FoCal to make the microadjustments. I have to say that I'm impressed with the difference.


i'm sorry but both look pretty blurry to me  ???

The shallow depth of field wide open and close up makes that type of image difficult to evaluate.  Its not the best to demonstrate a sharp image.
I would post a before and after, but my 24-105mmL was near perfect out of the box. 

EOS Bodies / Re: Am I crazy for thinking about doing this?
« on: May 30, 2012, 12:20:39 PM »
I bought a 7D when they first came out to replace my 1D MK II.  Bad move!  I returned the 7D and  found a almost new 1D MK III for a couple hundred dollars more.  It was much better, and would autofocus with a 1.4TC on my 100-400mmL giving me a slightly longer equivalent focal length. 
After a couple of years, the 7D dropped in price so much, that I bought a refurb on the Canon Loyalty program and the 1DMK III had gone up in value, so I sold it for twice the price I paid for the 7D.  I mainly use the 7D for product photography tethered to my PC, and my 5D MK II for everything else.  The 7D does like my 100mmL and my 100-400mmL too.
A couple of weeks ago, I needed a low light camera for two upcoming jobs and, since I did not expect my D800 to arrive soon,  bought a used 1D MK IV.  Obviously, its much better than the 7D.  Then, my D800 suddenly arrived, and I was able to use both. I really don't want to let go of either the 1D4 or the D800, but one has to go, I can't afford lenses for both.  The D800 focuses better in low light and takes TC's for f/8 AF, has a built-in flash to control external flashes, a built in AF assist light, lots of small things that make life easier, but the huge files are slow to process.
I was planning to upgrade computers when windows 8 arrived, I might do it sooner.  i've been pricing build my own versus buying a Dell, it looks like a Dell costs about the same after my employee discount, and I get a warranty.

EOS Bodies / Re: Shoot JPEG again with 5D3
« on: May 30, 2012, 11:59:27 AM »
if you can get it right in camera then you don't need raw

Absolutely correct. And if you can't always get it right in camera you need RAW. My hit rate is not 100%, so....


My hit rate isn't 100% and I still shoot JPEG.  As long as the WB is very close and the exposure is pretty close then there isn't ever a problem for me.

Thats why we have both.  If it works for you, then you will be happy, at least until a couple newer technology processors come out and your images start to look poorer.
For archival material, images you want to keep forever, consider RAW.  The reason I suggest this is that RAW converters continually improve, and you can always reprocess a raw image and get better results with a newer raw converter.  JPEG results are locked in.  I have some images taken at ISO 3200 when I first got my 5D MK II in 2007 and LR2, and they were noisey.  Reprocessing them with LR 3 and now 4 makes them sharper, and less noisey.  My older JPEGS stay the same, and tend to look awful compared to the reprocessed raws.
I do use jpegs for images with a short life span, ones I will throw away, but for family photos, ones I want to be available forever, I shoot raw and process a jpeg for current use knowing it can always be reprocessed when a better raw processor arrives.

Works fine for me.  I studied how to use the new tools so I understand what they do, and that makes it simple. 
All of us are resistant to change (me included), thats human nature.  We'd still be using stone axes ... no, not even them if it weren't for visionaries.

There was a previous post about a person seeing this. Possibly a camera issue?  Turn on preview and see if it still happens.
There are hundreds of thousands of camera users by now, I'd think that, if it were on every camera, we'd hear about it.

I honestly don't even think I noticed that they weren't red until I heard other people complaining about it.  I usually only used the center point with the 5DII so whether or not it was red was irrelevant.  But with the 5DIII the autofocus is amazingly accurate, I don't need a red confirmation of how accurate it is.  But I guess for some it's important, but it seems like some people are just using it as an excuse to bitch about the 5DIII.

I just recently added a 7D to go along with my 5D II, and didn't notice the lack of blinking red in AI Servo mode until I read about it in the manual. For what I shoot, it doesn't bother me.

That said, there are people who like the blinking red and are used to it. It also seems strange that it is not an option. I do think people are overreacting about selling the camera off or switching brands because of it, but I suppose that it one way to get Canon to pay attention.

Strange though that there was no out roar about it in the 7D, and professionals were certainly using it. I have seen more than a handful of Getty photographers at various sports games using the 7D.

Have you actually compared a 7D with a 5D MK III?  I have!  They are not the same.  The 7D lights up nicely in one shot mode for about 2 seconds, you can see the selected AF point clearly.
The 5D MK III, on the other hand, has 61 tiny  AF points that are difficult to see, and the light flickers for maybe 1/10 sec, you don't have time to make sure your subject is under the tiny point, and, in low light, thats the only chance you get.
Those who have not used both seem to have lots of expert opinions!

Technical Support / Re: 18-135mm Lens Fungus HELP!!!
« on: May 29, 2012, 11:26:29 PM »
1.  You need the right tools.  Do not use phillips screwdrivers or ou will damage the screw heads, and possibly make it impossible for anyone to remove them.  Cameras and lenses use a JIS type screwdriver  http://www.micro-tools.com/store/C-NIWA/JIS-Type-S-Screwdrivers.aspx
2.  You need to know how to get it apart, some are simple, some are not
3.  you are assuming its behind the front lens, but it might be further inside.  The front element may need to be replaced if the glass is etched severely from the fungus. Fungus can sometimes be cleaned at a early stage, but can also etch the glass.
Good luck, if you do not now work on lenses, you might want to practice on a junk one.  I converted quite a few broken lenses into scrap learning to work on them.

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Image Review Camera vs Lightroom
« on: May 29, 2012, 11:14:28 PM »
I'm not liking Lightroom 4.1 RC2.  I've read numerous accounts and have witnessed myself the lack of the ability of this program to import your camera's settings in RAW files.  I shot a parade yesterday and my photos were fine in my histogram when I shot the photos and fine in photoshop, but in LR the highlights were totally blown, to the point I didn't even bother using LR anymore to modify RAW images.  You also have to choose the camera profile settings:  2012 (crap), 2010 (pretty good) and 2003 (no idea).  If you want your images in LR to turn out like they actually are on the camera when you take them, either get another program or wait until the final version of LR is released and just hope it has better profile settings.

Sorry, this doesn't help your question.  Watch your resolution on your TV.

LR and photoshop use a common engine, they will look identical if you use the same version and settings.  Only DPP imports settings from the Camera.  Its propritary, and not under the control of Adobe, DXO, or anyone else.
There appears to be a lack of understanding of the jpeg histogram on the camera versus raw shooting.

Software & Accessories / Re: Benro B0 or B1 ball head?
« on: May 29, 2012, 10:04:53 PM »
Google it, then pass it by.  Their tripods are pretty good, but the ball heads are horrible.  You have to reef down on the tightner to keep them from slipping.  There are plenty of low cost heads that are good.
But, If you want one anyway, I have two new ones only used a couple of times.  I refuse to sell them to a unsupecting newby photographer!

Lenses / Re: Bokeh...is the look feeling dated?
« on: May 29, 2012, 09:34:46 PM »
Interesting that recent cameras are getting defraction earlier than older models.

Diffraction is a lens property, and it is the same for a given lens, no matter what body you attach. 
A High MP body has better resolution and can see diffraction better, but it is not any more or less.

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