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Messages - Mt Spokane Photography

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EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Adobe RGB or sRGB please?
« on: September 26, 2012, 03:07:02 PM »
Shoot in Adobe RGB then dumb it down to sRGB yourself if you need to for printing.

Actually, if shooting in Adobe RGB matters, you've already dumbed it down a lot, because that means you're shooting JPG.  If you're shooting RAW, color space is irrelevant - you can set it later.

You are right, I set mine to Adobe RGB but use raw, so it really made no difference.  I use Lightroom 4 which has a prophoto gamut that is even wider.
 I can do a soft proofing to my printer / paper profile and bring the colors into gamut as required.

EOS Bodies / Re: More Big Megapixel Talk [CR1]
« on: September 26, 2012, 12:16:45 AM »
Salt Shaker??
I've a dump truck of salt standing by.

Lenses / Re: Can a refurbished lens be backordered?
« on: September 25, 2012, 11:04:45 PM »
They don't accept backorders, but if they accidentally oversold a few they may honor the price.

Third Party Manufacturers / Re: Sigma 120-300 f/2.8 OS
« on: September 25, 2012, 11:03:06 PM »
Plenty of time to discuss it, since it usually takes a minimum of 1-1/2 years for a Sigma lens to start shipping once development has been announced.

Software & Accessories / Re: Canon Direct Instock Alert Tool
« on: September 25, 2012, 11:48:05 AM »
They still show in stock in the store, but you can no longer add to the cart.  My cart has one in it, but I can't check out, it gives a no loonger available message.
At the low price, I think some are buying the max number allowed to resell.

Software & Accessories / Re: Canon Direct Instock Alert Tool
« on: September 25, 2012, 11:27:41 AM »
They went out of stock while it was in my cart.  Just seconds ago.  Bummer!
I'm wondering if the Canon e-mail I received was sent out a few minutes before they actually appeared in the store.  I had not considered that.

Lenses / Re: New 24-70 L II - something wrong with mine? is this normal?
« on: September 25, 2012, 11:20:56 AM »
It does look bad, but this is not the way to evaluate the lens.  Line it up perpendicular to a brick wall at a fair distance back, and then you can see a issue much better.  Then, turn it upside down and take a image of the same view.
If the bad area moves to the opposite side, get it fixed or exchange it.  If the blurry area stays in the same place, its not the lens.

Software & Accessories / Re: Canon Direct Instock Alert Tool
« on: September 25, 2012, 11:16:37 AM »
I missed the restocking of the 70-200mm MK II this morning.  They were gone by the time I got up this morning on the West Coast.
There are some other very good lenses that are still in stock.

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Adobe RGB or sRGB please?
« on: September 24, 2012, 09:51:16 PM »
Adobe RGB has a wider Gamet, which means it can show more colors.  However, you then need a monitor that can show Adobe RGB and a printer that can print it.
Thats why most except for the really tech savy use SRGB.  I've used Adobe RGB, my Epson 3880 can print a wider gamet, but truthfully, SRGB is a lot less headache.
Also note, when you set your camera to Adobe RGB, the first digit of the file name will be a dash.  This causes lots of people consternation that have changed the setting without really knowing what they were doing.

Lenses / Re: 70-300mm For my 5DM2
« on: September 24, 2012, 08:25:15 PM »
The non L is just fine, you do gain a lot by going to the "L", but you can also capture good photos with the non L.
It isn't actually necessary to have a lens that is sharp corner to corner for the majority of images.

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: 60D actually doesn't need AFMA?
« on: September 24, 2012, 08:12:43 PM »
There are two parts to autofocus accuracy.  The body and the lens.  Each has a tolerance.  The worst case comes when a body and lens are off in the same direction.  Then the tolerances add, and the result will be worse.  Conversely, when they oppose, they may cancel out.
Another factor is the f stop that you are using along with the distance to subject.  A f/1.4 or f/1.2 lens at close range has a very tiny depth of field, and even a slight autofocus error is quite apparent.  Conversely, a f/3.5-5.6 lens used at f/8 has a larger depth of field, and any error can be lost in the depth of field.
However, don't go looking for trouble.  If your happy with your images, then things are fine.

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Who upgraded from 5d mk2 to mk3 ?
« on: September 24, 2012, 08:06:09 PM »
1. Is anybody aware of the stronger AA filter?

2. Or the fact that raw files at high ISO are not that different - according to DPreview samples -between 5D2 and 5D3? Are all of you shooting jpgs only and are so impressed with 5D3?

In order to not be misunderstood: I am interested in 5D3 too. I am just having second thoughts ...
The Raw files have a huge difference at ISO 12800 and higher, but at ISO 1600 are similar.  I bought mine to be able to use 12600 and higher ISO, and my 5D MK II is a total mess at ISO 12600.
It all depends on the definition of High ISO.
For some, the difference in AF speed and accuracy means little, however the auto ISO in manual is very useful.  It could be better, but its still a big plus over the MK II.
There is absolutely nothing wrong with the 5D Mark II, but you can look for reasons to keep it or get one, or you can look for reasons to buy a 5D Mark III.  It really depends on your mindset, but its hard to go far wrong.
I took 300+images of a Monster Truck that a friend drives a couple of weeks ago with my 5D Mark II.  It worked fine.  Then I boxed it up and sold it. I doubt that the Mark III would have done any better.



Lenses / Re: How often do you use 35L @1.4
« on: September 24, 2012, 04:15:35 PM »
I use the lens for low light photography, and its usually at the wider apertures.  Its currently my third most used lens (my 135mm L is first by a large margin.)

Lenses / Re: Old manual focus 50mm: Sharpness
« on: September 24, 2012, 01:22:24 PM »
I have a reversing ring and adapters, and have tried several primes.  As noted, you need to use a prime where you can easily stop down the aperture by taping or otherside licking the aperture lever.  Its very difficult to do this with FD lenses, but easy with Nikon F lenses.
You usually need to get quite close to the subject, which also makes it difficult.
The suggestion of the old Nikon 55mm Micro is a good one.  I have one, but do not recall trying it on my Canon gear. You can pick one up for a reasonable price.

Lenses / Re: How to Test a Lens
« on: September 24, 2012, 01:13:09 PM »
Reikan FoCal will help set AFMA, I love it.  Testing a lens / camera combination, which is what all the lens testers do, is a tricky proposition.  The same lens mounted on seemingly identical cameras will give different results, and seemingly identical lenses when mounted on the same camera will give different results.  All of them are likely meeting spec, but there are variations.
I've seen a couple of testers note that the 24-70mm f/2.8 is not as sharp at the edges as its predecissor. but there is enough variation in lenses to require several more test results before we can see a definite trend.
If the lens does not meet your expectations, return it for a second one.

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