Messages

61

Technical Support / Re: Removal of GGS III LCD Screen Protector glass for CANON EOS 7D type c mount

« on: June 07, 2013, 02:57:26 PM »

They are held in place by static electricity, you can just peel it off.  You might use a thin plastic or wooden tool to pry up the edge, then pull it away from the LCD.  There is no glue involved, and they should remove easily.
 
Resist the temptation to use a knife, one slip and you will gouge the LCD Screen assembly.

62

Lenses / Re: 200-400 f4 and the "new" 100-400 zoom

« on: June 07, 2013, 02:52:34 PM »

There is no "New" 100-400mm lens, only the same rumors we have been hearing for 8 years.
 
Its pretty difficult to say anything about the construction of a non existent lens.
 
However, there would be "0" parts interchangeability, that's for sure.
 
The optical formula would also likely be different.
 
What makes those big white lenses so expensive is the price of large chunks of optically perfect fluorite and glass which are ground and polished painstakingly by hand to extreme tolerances, far tighter than can be directly measured.  Lens elements are then trial fitted, they change them out until the combination meets the specifications.  Then, they are tested and adjusted multiple times.  The labor cost is high, because only the most experienced technicians are allowed to work on them.
 
They are a supurb piece of equipment for the price.
 
Even so, Cinema lenses go much further towards being perfect, and their $40k + prices reflect this.

63

Software & Accessories / Re: Should I go with the genuine Battery grip or go for a 3rd Party grip

« on: June 07, 2013, 02:06:30 PM »

The third party grips have a reputation of lasting from 3-6 months, depending on use.  Just buy 10 of them and you'll be set for 3 years.

sources for such a bold claim?

i would love you write not such biased nonsense all the time about third party gear, you propably have never used yourself or any experience with.

i bought my 5D MK2 over 4 years ago and the BG grip i bought for it is still absolutely fine.
the phottix BG for my 550D is from 2010 and the 550D is my cheap "throw around" camera.
the BG is also still absolutely fine.
 
and im not a weekend shooter....

 
Actually, I was wanting to buy one for my 5D MK III, but after reading reviews on the various models, I decided to just skip them.
 
The issue is the 5D MK III grips.  Its nice that your 5D Mark II grip worked fine, but there are tons of issues with the Grips for the 5D MK III, and I've read lots of reviews about them running down batteries, controls not working, locking up the camera, etc.
For example, read the Amazon Reviews.  Things look rosy until you see what was actually written.  The positive reviews often come from some clueless person who tells how good his 5D MK II product was and is not a review of the 5D MK III product at all.
Its like saying my 2005 Automobile was wonderful, so you will be happy with the newest model.
 
http://www.amazon.com/Meike-Version-Vertical-Battery-Camera/dp/B0093Y0CXE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1370627200&sr=8-2&keywords=5D+MK+III+grip
 
http://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/3205127
 
 

64

Lighting / Re: Can a (DSLR) flash cause permanent eye damage?

« on: June 07, 2013, 01:39:32 PM »

I'm confident that if you place the flash physically on the eye and fire it will cause permanent damage.  Caveat Emptor.

 
Actually, for certain types of eye exams, they do place a ring flash and camera on your eye to photograph the retina.  My Retina specialist does it every day with no issues.
 
If the light is strong enough and lasts long enough, as in a arc welder, your cornea will get burned.
 
Time of exposure, wavelength as well as brightness are factors.
http://doctor.ndtv.com/faq.aspx?fid=6852

65

Reviews / Re: Horrible experience with Adorama camera

« on: June 07, 2013, 01:30:28 PM »

So a week after the money transfer the money is still not back in my account. This is surreal. The negligence shown by Adorama Camera is now pretty staggering. I have wasted hours of my life on this. I keep on speaking to Customer Service who is incapable of contacting the account team to find out where my money is. I am about to call my bank and place a trace on the funds. I cannot believe this. Adorama is beyond negligent.

You definitely should call your bank, Adorama is not a bank, and does not have any visibility into the banking system. 
 
You should e-mail Helen with the details, and she will help, that's something she is able to do.

66

Lenses / Re: 200-400 f4 and the "new" 100-400 zoom

« on: June 07, 2013, 01:23:52 PM »

The development costs on the lens were pretty high, its unlikely that Canon will see any profit in 5-7 years.
Selling price is $11,800.  Dealers get about 10% discount off the selling price, so Canon might get $10,600.
 
As far as direct costs to manufacture and assemble the lens, it likely costs $6500 - 7500.  The rest is amortization of tooling, development costs, advertising, shipping, profit, warranty and repair, things like that that are expenses but not included in direct costs by accountants.
Market does not really play a big factor in prices, Canon controls the quantity available and is able to keep prices up. However, if sales are better than forecast, and the development costs are amortized sooner, than there is room to lower the price.
Assuming tooling and development cost was $15,000,000, and amortized over 10,000 units,  that would be 1500 dollars per lens, which sounds about right.
No one but Canon knows, of course, but the numbers but it in the ball park range of $7000 to build.
 

67

Software & Accessories / Re: Third Party LP-E6

« on: June 07, 2013, 10:09:17 AM »

What concerns me about batteries is not their life, but safety.  Li-on batteries can be very dangerous, overheat, and even cause fires.  They brought a UPS 747 down a few years back, and USPS no longer allows them or items containing them to be shipped internationally.
 
So, the problem is ... How do you tell??  Many batteries are made in back rooms in China from the cheapest possible materials and marketed with no QC but they claim to meet safety standards.  some companies will tell you anything you want to hear.
 
If you can, buy from someone who actually tests the product and does QC.  Even Nikon got caught up in unsafe batteries a couple of years back.  They were not allowed to sell the D700 in Japan due to the unsafe battery design.  They were only allowed to sell the D3 because of the low volume.
 
I wish there were a way to know for sure which ones have the best chance of being safe, but I run a import business, and I know first hand about imports from China.  A good batch of batteries does not mean that the next batch will be safe, or even that they were made in the same factory.

68

Lighting / Re: Can a (DSLR) flash cause permanent eye damage?

« on: June 07, 2013, 09:58:59 AM »

The Press 25 bulbs that everyone used to use did not cause damage, and they gave off extremely bright for a far longer time than the 1/10,000 sec of a electronic flash.  I have a few dozen of them stashed away.  They keep getting more and more valuable every year.
 
 And then there were the Sylvania FF33 bulbs.
http://www.flashbulbs.com/CresImgs/PagePics/MegaFlsh/PF3300_350.gif

69

Software & Accessories / Re: Should I go with the genuine Battery grip or go for a 3rd Party grip

« on: June 07, 2013, 09:49:14 AM »

The third party grips have a reputation of lasting from 3-6 months, depending on use.  Just buy 10 of them and you'll be set for 3 years.

70

Lenses / Re: LensRentals.com Tests the EF 200-400 f/4L IS 1.4x

« on: June 06, 2013, 05:27:12 PM »

As usual, performance increase is not proportional to price increase.  Its really difficult to get a significant performance increase.

71

Lenses / Re: Very Stuck Filter

« on: June 06, 2013, 03:36:00 PM »

I'd be careful using a tool with a lever action as you may damage lens components accidentally since you can apply so much force.  Not sure if anyone mentioned these, but they are cheap and really help to remove metal rings and have been used in kitchens for decades.  Here is one example...

http://www.amazon.com/Fox-Run-Rubber-Jar-Opener/dp/B000GG9UP4

I got a round one as a promo item and it really helps to securely attach and remove filters.  It is nice to have and cheap, so get one if you do not already have one.

 
I' buy and sell used cameras and lenses.  Occasionally, I get one that has been dropped and bent so badly that it takes a lever type wrench to remove it.  Its still a flexible plastic strap, and its applied to the filter only.  Obviously, applying too much torque can potentially damage the lens, so common sense is needed.  If the glass is gone from the filter, its easy, I just pinch the edge of the filter with needle nose pliers and bend it with a twisting action, wrapping it around the nose of the plier and it pops right out.
I do agree with those who recommend sending a lens that has been dropped to be serviced.  There are too many internal things that can happen that do affect IQ but might not be obvious.

72

Software & Accessories / Re: Maximal possible speed Eos 7D CF-Card

« on: June 06, 2013, 03:25:42 PM »

Bought an refurbished 7D again, the 60D has an sensor damage.
What is the maximal -senseful- CF card speed I can use on the 7D?

My old CF card (233x) might be topped.

Tell me your experience and your used product. I wan to buy 2 16GB cards.

Thanks

1000X is currently the  CF fastest card.  The 7D will work with UDMA 7.

73

EOS Bodies / Re: 5D Mark III phenomenon

« on: June 06, 2013, 03:18:47 PM »

It is annoying, but it is well known and has been comment on in multiple threads over the past year.

74

Lenses / Re: $1550 for a used 85L f1.2 II

« on: June 06, 2013, 11:23:46 AM »

How do you determine the year the Lens was manufactured? Is it VIA the serial #?

Thanks

It depends.  Canon stopped putting date codes on some lenses, and lenses that have been repaired often lose their date code in the process.
If a lens has no date code, you can determine approximate date of manufacture from the serial number.
For lenses made after 2008 which do not have a date code, this chart of serial numbers might help.
 
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Canon-Lenses/Canon-Lens-Aging.aspx
 
For Example, This Spring, I bought a new 24-70mmL that my dealer ordered from Canon and delivered directly to me with a serial number beginning with 95.  That puts its manufacturing date in October 2012, 6 months before Canon shipped it from their warehouse.  If it had been in dealer inventory, it could have very well been a few months older.  When buying a used lens, the manufacturing date is often quite a bit before it was sold, but I have bought them that were only 3 months old.

75

Lenses / Re: Bang for buck 5d to 5d mark III or 70-200 2.8 nonIS to 70-200 2.8 IS II

« on: June 06, 2013, 10:43:40 AM »

Good Decision.  Your older lens is still excellent, and a new body will take advantage of it.  I usually recommend a new lens over a new body, but in your situation, you'll get more from a new body.