« on: March 21, 2013, 08:59:18 AM »
Still no AFMA...something that doesn't cost them a dime at this point. In fact it probably costs them extra to disable it from the common firmware code base.
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...the aperture is at f/5 and things developed too fast to take time to stop open it up to f/2.8 which would have produced a better background bokeh.
tested on the mk3 and it works fine aperture registers correctly and it has AF confirm
I grabbed a couple of these from this seller off ebay
They arrived yesterday and I installed them on my Lensbaby composer pro with sweet 35 optic
and on my samyang 8mm fisheye
really well made and come with a really nice accurate little plastic locating template so you get the chip in exactly the right spot as well as some little plastic filler/spacers to bring the height up (which i needed on both these lenses.
I glued them on with araldite a 2 part epoxy glue that sets quite fast but not too fast allowing me to get the position just right, importantly the glue does not have vapour like superglue which could mess up the rear lens element.
I followed these programming instructions and it all went perfectly
I hope this info helps anyone else looking to do the same
I might also consider magic lantern and focus peaking once the software gets out of the early testing stage.
Um, my usual comment: On other than the 2012 cameras ml is stable and proven for years - though on 6d and the op's 5d3 you have indeed to wait for the official release.
Hehehe...plus he looks like a mix between Anderson Cooper and Ellen Degeneres with that grey hair and jacket...difficult to take him seriously
I don't trust anyone who doesn't know how to say "ISO."
On the other hand, I cannot imagine a situation where I set the aperture AFTER focusing, so I don't see a big issue here.
Unless you're shooting wide open or focusing manually with the DoF Preview button pressed, you're stopping down after focusing every time you shoot. AF is always performed with the lens wide open, regardless of the aperture selected. The lens stops down just before the shot, and that's when focus shift occurs.
Do you see a bigger issue now?
Ah, thanks for the edification.
Indeed, then it would be a VERY BIG ISSUE, and then I wonder why that hasn't been all over the internet already! Maybe sample variation did play a role here?
BTW, not that I am personally interested in this lens, but would this be true even if one is back-button focusing?
Yes, true no matter how you autofocus.
A cheap filter will negatively impact your sharpness, and add flare. A good filter will not reduce sharpness, and will only very slightly increase flare. I'd go with B+W MRC (or Nano) or a high end Hoya. Skipping the filter is better than a cheap one (but your 17-40 needs one to complete the sealing).
Consider trying the ettl average mode?
Some light reading