August 28, 2014, 07:26:22 PM

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Messages - mrsfotografie

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46
24mm f/1.4 A $1100?

Please anyone, what was the introduction price of the 35mm?

47
EOS Bodies / Re: popup-flash - made a "pro feature"?
« on: August 15, 2014, 11:48:57 AM »
On this topic (an a little off it as well), please recommend a little external flash that I can use for fill-flash on a 5D series body when traveling. I currently have a Metz Mecablitz 48 AF-1 that's great but way too big for that purpose.

The 270EX II is relatively small, sits low on top of the camera, and has some bounce capability as well. Uses 2AA batteries. Obviously, it suffers from the same issues as a pop-up flash - not very powerful and close enough to the lens that redeye can be a problem. But if you don't want to pack a 600EX-RT, it's small enough to carry easily when you might just need a little light.

Cool, I was looking at the Metz 24 AF-1, but it doesn't have high speed sync which is a deal breaker for me. How about the 270EX II, does it have HSS?

48
EOS Bodies / Re: popup-flash - made a "pro feature"?
« on: August 15, 2014, 02:11:45 AM »
I thought ring lights were for macro stuff where the subject is virtually pressed against the lens and just getting any light on it can be a challenge?

Have you ever looked at studio strobes? You get ringlights from all brands, and they aren't excactly useable for macro work.

I think you're talking about something that falls under the category of "off camera flash" much better than "on camera flash" which is the subject of this thread.

On-camera.

http://www.paulcbuff.com/abr800.php

Fantastic, have fun with that on your next vacation.

What cracks me up is "It is extremely compact, lightweight ...."  ;D ;D ;D :o

49
Third Party Manufacturers / Re: Dustin Abbott Reviews Tamron 28-300 FF
« on: August 15, 2014, 02:09:04 AM »
Out of curiosity, what does the EXIF tagging show for the f-stop?  From what I've seen when working with MF lenses, I'm fairly certain the lens can't lie to the camera about its wide-open aperture, or else every shot would be underexposed by a stop.  But perhaps it could get around that by lying about every setting equally.  If that were the case, wide-open shots would claim to be f/5.6 at the long end, even though they really can't be.

First of all, the EXIF data is always correct.  But somehow third party lenses have had a workaround that bypassed the f/5.6 maximum aperture limitation for many years.  I understand that the trickery is not so much about metering as it by bypassing that limitation.  Magic Lantern software also can bypass that same limitation for all lenses, so it obviously more of a software limitation than it is a physical limitation.

After studying the lens protocol, I think I get it.  The camera asks the lens to report its maximum aperture, but that's the maximum aperture for the whole lens, not for the current zoom setting.  When the camera sends a command to fully open the lens, the lens reports the actual aperture.  I'd imagine that the check to decide whether to autofocus or not is based on the maximum aperture reported by the lens, rather than the aperture that the lens reports when the camera tells it to open all the way at the beginning of focusing.

So as long as the lens says that it can open up to f/5.6 or wider, even if it really fails 100% of the time in practice, the camera will make the attempt.

With that said, I only spent about three minutes looking over the lens protocol, so I could be wrong.

Of course the lens 'fools' the camera to think it's f/5.6. This is similar to the 'tape trick' on 'reporting' teleconverters or using a 'non-reporting' teleconverter to AF on non- 'pro' bodies even at f/8.

50
EOS Bodies / Re: popup-flash - made a "pro feature"?
« on: August 15, 2014, 02:04:39 AM »
On this topic (an a little off it as well), please recommend a little external flash that I can use for fill-flash on a 5D series body when traveling. I currently have a Metz Mecablitz 48 AF-1 that's great but way too big for that purpose.

51
EOS Bodies / Re: How do reds come out in your 5d3 ?
« on: August 14, 2014, 12:58:07 PM »
Thank you all, especially Jon and McG.

Nice shot Mrs.... only that on my monitor, the flower shows as a deep burnt orange, not red  ;D

Same here. That looks like a some kind of Poppy, and they are usually more orange than red.
+1 - I'm on my nice calibrated monitor now, and while I agree mostly, it's very much red in the center and orange on the outer petals.  It's a beautiful flower.

it's orange here on my crappy monitor, nice shot though.

Of course all of you are correct - it's a deep orange, not red - a good representation of the actual color of the flower, but then it was also shot with a NEX-6 so yeah, it may not be such a good example of 5DMkIII reds ;D

Thanks for all the nice comments by the way - I feel like I'm floating on flowers  ;)

52
EOS Bodies / Re: SL1 as a "travel" body
« on: August 13, 2014, 03:33:23 PM »
How is the viewfinder on the SL-1? I looked through a 450D the other day and was shocked by the tininess of the OVF. I like to see what I'm doing and for that reason I actually like the EVF on my NEX - it's much bigger than the OVF of a traditional xxx(x)D body.

53
EOS Bodies / Re: popup-flash - made a "pro feature"?
« on: August 13, 2014, 03:25:11 PM »
Direct light coming off the camera is horrendous.
I honestly can't think of a useful way to use a pop-up flash (other than blinding people in dark rooms so that you can run away).

Fill flash?

It's still the worst place for light to come from regardless if its the primary light source or fill. In every conceivable circumstance i would want my fill coming from off camera..even if its slightly off axis.

To me pop up flash doesnt belong on the pro bodies simply because of the location in which the light is coming from (directly above lens). The optical master argument is a thin one, every flash is an optical master (which is the problem with optical triggering...you cant prevent other sources from triggering your strobes).

Would having a pop up flash on the 5d or 1dx bother me even if I never used it? Yes. Those things inevitably and stupidly seem to end up popping up on their own causing distraction and getting in the way.

Count me firmly in the camp of pop up flash hater.

I don't like pop up flash much either, especially because of the shadow cast by big(ger) lenses.

I don't make use of it much, but here's fill flash at work from the hotshoe (Metz Mecablitz 48 external flash). The twinkle in the eyes and definition in the face would definitely not have happened without the flash. Note that the shadows aren't pushed in PP for this shot.

54
EOS Bodies / Re: How do reds come out in your 5d3 ?
« on: August 13, 2014, 03:06:32 PM »
Absolutely, the in-camera WB has an effect on exposure.
Nice photo MRS!  I would like to clarify what you said above - it has an effect on the exposure of JPEGs and histograms, but zero affect on the exposure itself in RAW, and it does not affect the metering.

Actually yes you're right but because it affects the histogram I think it better helps to evaluate if exposure is correct based om the output/clipping of the individual channels in the histogram. I always have my histogram showing in image review, set to RGB. In fact. being able to see the histogram is almost more important than being able to see the shots themselves.

Maybe it's the correct exposure for dynamic range per channel that counts, if something like that actually exists.

55
EOS Bodies / Re: How do reds come out in your 5d3 ?
« on: August 13, 2014, 02:52:51 PM »
Annnnnnd this is why I'm not a pro. 

Mackguyver:  ETTR is not new to me at all, I've been doing that for some time.  That principal is well in-hand for me.

But if I understood your and Jrista's posts correctly, I just learned that my in-camera WB does affect my RAW files due to its effect on metering.  That's a big deal for me, as I shoot everything in AWB and JPG+RAW, and I simply correct the white balance in my keeper RAW files.

So now I do need to sweat my WB.  I always thought that RAW alleviated me of that burden and I just focused on a general (non-color-specific) histo. 

- A

Absolutely, the in-camera WB has an effect on exposure. Also, I find the immediate results on the camera screen to give a better evaluation of what the end result will look like. I shoot AWB most of the time if there is enough color variation in the scene but in natural environments I find an approximation using cloudy/daylight/shade works best. That approximation is good enough to tweak in post if needed.

I am technical about my photography but don't want to turn it into a science. So a few clipped channels here and there are ok with me as long as the overall result is to my liking.

FWIW I'll join the red flower post  ;D

Here's one shot with my NEX-6 and a Canon 50mm f/3.5 FL Macro (from the 60's).

56
EOS Bodies / Re: How do reds come out in your 5d3 ?
« on: August 13, 2014, 01:34:49 PM »
I have often struggled with red objects in my 5d3. I wrote last year about it but did not get any replies. Yesterday while trying out my new 85 1.2 ii, I saw the same issue.

Red flowers come out in an over saturated red haze. The other colors seem saturated just fine, but the reds are over powered so much that the flowers lose detail.

I can reduced saturation in LR, but then the whole image looks washed out... the issue is only with reds.

If I reduce just red (Red channel only) , then it lacks punch, although I get back details in the flower...

Has anyone else observed this?

Looks like your auto white balance is thrown off by the amount of 'green' in the photo (greens look too blue). Try a WB setting of 'daylight' or 'cloudy'. I find this gives the best overall results if shooting in a 'green' environment.

57
I agree i find it a ho hum focal length not wide enough or not tight enough
I really like 20mm though its a really nice wide focal length

I second that. I really love my CZJ Flektogon 20/2.8 although I miss autofocus. A 24mm f/1.4 is already made by Canon so I don't see the need for Sigma to do this too. I'd rather had a 20mm f/1.4 with a close focusing distance of 19mm like the Flek. And yeah, I know there's the 20mm F1.8 EX DG by Sigma but that lens is dated, it has no hypersonic AF (HSM).

Sigma made a 35mm f/1.4 that beats the Canon 35mm f/1.4 on many fronts, including price  and it has been a big seller so I suspect Sigma will see a makrket for a 24mm.

I agree the 20mm is dated but honestly its AF is plenty fast for a wide angle prime. It does have a weird dual clutch system which is a poor mechanical workaround to engage or disengage the focus ring vs AF or MF. It is not a big issue for me, but it is possible to set the lens in MF mode and have the focus ring disengaged as well.

58
Software & Accessories / Re: Unsharp Mask in DPP
« on: August 12, 2014, 01:07:17 PM »
How do they differ in the way they sharpen? When would you use one over the other and how much sharpening is usually required and how much is too much?
I just "googled" "how to set DPP by default to 'sharpness' instead of 'unsharp mask' for 5DMkIII images?" and couldn't find the solution to your dilemma. Maybe Canon can fix this in a future version.

Without going into technical details, 'unsharp mask' is contrast based and strongly sharpens edges. 'Sharpening' is a more overall effect, sharpening not only the edges but smaller details too but less significantly. The unsharp masking has quite an image altering effect, significantly boosting apparent sharpness but it also causes contrast changes at the edges themselves, not something I like. The unsharp mask creates more of a 'wow' effect, but the normally sharpened images are more pleasing to look at for longer.

59
Lenses / Re: Going native at 400mm
« on: August 12, 2014, 12:59:42 PM »
When in a pinch the 70-200mm F2.8 MKII with 2x converter work pretty well. I only have the V2 converter, its easier than carrying two lenses and the IQ is pretty good IMO close to the 100-400mm at 400 but the AF is slower... but with the 5DMKIII I missed very few shots, also the 4 stop IS works great with the 2x.

Couple of recent examples, all commercial. As you can see, they are very sharp, and two of the below are very quick and the combo had no trouble.

BMW CSL 1973, Batmobile, Colin Turkington, Jet Super Touring Car Trophy, Silverstone Classic 2014 by TomScottPhoto, on Flickr

What are your shutter speed and aperture for this shot? EDIT: ƒ/5.6  400.0 mm 1/250, I checked on your flickr page.


I've recently rediscovered my 100-400L given good light (from behind, it looses performance when shooting against the light). This is a quick an dirty crop, at f/7.1, 1/1000s. I'm waiting to see if the 100-400L II will be announced because the versatility of a zoom is kinda nice to have at the race track (I thought differently until I shot this event).

60
EOS Bodies / Re: Suggestions of a Canon MF announcement at Photokina!
« on: August 12, 2014, 12:19:32 PM »
I see what you did there.

 ;)

It would be strange for a manufacturer renowned for their AF camera's...

I see it too now, I guess that's what happens when you don't fully read into the topic  :-[

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