Messages

76

Landscape / Re: My first Post...

« on: January 22, 2013, 02:08:24 PM »

nice catch on that 2nd one.

77

Lenses / Re: 70-200 f/2.8L IS II Problem

« on: January 22, 2013, 01:55:33 AM »

I had also bought this very same lens from Amazon, and had an issue with it < 1 year of having it. Since it was outside the return policy for Amazon, I sent it to Canon, and they got it back to me within 2 weeks. It has worked beautifully ever since. So even if for some reason Amazon won't help you, Canon will.

+1

Canon service is pretty awesome.  I'm lucky to live a half mile away from the Canon Service Center in Irvine.

78

EOS Bodies / Re: 6D vs 5Diii vs 5Dii - Speedlite AF Focus Beam Assist Tests

« on: January 21, 2013, 05:54:38 AM »

thats probably the most sense any one has made about it.  Thank you.... so there is a grey area where you really need the AF assist beam to focus and can't do it with just ambient light.  got it

79

Lenses / Re: Grey (Gray) Market Advice

« on: January 21, 2013, 03:03:04 AM »

You realize it will be on sale the day after you buy one......

Seriously though, email your preferred supplier and ask if you can still get one at the sale price.... The worst they can say is no.

+1

80

EOS Bodies / Re: Shot wedding with 5DIII, dissapointed in AF

« on: January 21, 2013, 03:01:07 AM »

I see this thread is NOT about the AF assist beam.

I just wanted to add my vote for super fast AF on my mk3 in dimly lit situations.  No issues with mine

81

EOS Bodies / Re: 6D vs 5Diii vs 5Dii - Speedlite AF Focus Beam Assist Tests

« on: January 21, 2013, 02:55:33 AM »

This is a copy of my post from another thread on the same topic:

So I've been doing some further testing.  I can create a situation on my mk3 and 600 ex-rt where I can notice a much less snappy AF lock.  I was not able to re-create the lag when trying to focus in a very dark (almost black) setting.  Maybe, that's where I messed up in my prior testing.  Maybe a completely black environment creates enough contrast between the environment and the red focus assist beam to allow focus whereas a dimly lit situation is lit just enough to give the camera trouble focusing because it can't really see the red AF assist beam as well.

I'm able to notice a significant lag when the ambient light is dim (proper exposure in camera at f/2.8, 1/50, ISO 5000). 

Seems to me like I would just turn the beam OFF when I notice the ambient light is about at this level.  Am I still over simplifying the issue?  I get that pros need their focus to be snappy to catch those moments.  Wouldn't that mean a few test shots in the environment first to gauge the settings required....including wether or not to turn the AF assist beam on/off?

Maybe I don't understand the depth of the issue because I'm not coming from a 5D mk2 where the focus is supposed to be faster.  That said, I'm an engineer by trade.  We are trouble shooters by nature.  It seems like there's a pretty easy fix for this (just based off of what I've been able to test).  If this really is an issue for a shooter,  just turn the beam off when you feel like it's slowing you down.  Does ambient light in a reception hall or your venues change constantly for you guys?  Isn't this just a matter of your experience telling you how your camera should be set to capture moments?  I'm not trying to be condescending.  promise.   I still don't understand what the big deal is.

82

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: 5D3 & 600ex-rt + AF assist beam = slower focus

« on: January 21, 2013, 02:49:28 AM »

So I've been doing some further testing.  I can create a situation on my mk3 and 600 ex-rt where I can notice a much less snappy AF lock.  I was not able to re-create the lag when trying to focus in a very dark (almost black) setting.  Maybe, that's where I messed up in my prior testing.  Maybe a completely black environment creates enough contrast between the environment and the red focus assist beam to allow focus whereas a dimly lit situation is lit just enough to give the camera trouble focusing because it can't really see the red AF assist beam as well.

I'm able to notice a significant lag when the ambient light is dim (proper exposure in camera at f/2.8, 1/50, ISO 5000). 

Seems to me like I would just turn the beam OFF when I notice the ambient light is about at this level.  Am I still over simplifying the issue?  I get that pros need their focus to be snappy to catch those moments.  Wouldn't that mean a few test shots in the environment first to gauge the settings required....including wether or not to turn the AF assist beam on/off?

Maybe I don't understand the depth of the issue because I'm not coming from a 5D mk2 where the focus is supposed to be faster.  That said, I'm an engineer by trade.  We are trouble shooters by nature.  It seems like there's a pretty easy fix for this (just based off of what I've been able to test).  If this really is an issue for a shooter,  just turn the beam off when you feel like it's slowing you down.  Does ambient light in a reception hall or your venues change constantly for you guys?  Isn't this just a matter of your experience telling you how your camera should be set to capture moments?  I'm not trying to be condescending.  promise.   I still don't understand what the big deal is. 

83

Lenses / Re: EF200mm f1.8L vs EF200mm f2L IS vs EF300mm f2.8L IS II

« on: January 19, 2013, 05:44:36 AM »

1st time I've ever read someone say that the 70-200 didn't deliver.  I'd seriously consider my approach to shooting/post production if I were you.  No offense...really.  It's an outstanding lens....Unless yours needs service.  I'd contact Canon Service if it doesn't wow you. 

As for the forum topic, I'd say go for the 300 2.8 II to add to your existing focal lengths and get the extenders as you need them.

84

EOS Bodies / Re: Is the 5D Mark iii a considerable enough upgrade from the 5D Mark ii?

« on: January 15, 2013, 03:09:36 PM »

I agree with the above posts.  what do you shoot?  What are the problems you are encountering with your current camera?  what upgrades are you looking for?

85

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Reikan FoCal Pro with 40 STM

« on: January 15, 2013, 05:00:11 AM »

I would generally say no you don't.  However if you have more than one body you may need it.  Also FoCal does have quite a few features above just AFMA calibration.  Aperture sharpness is one of them as well as verifying your equipment is still calibrated.  Calibrations can drift over time.

But if AFMA is all you are concerned about then you don't need focal if canon got it all set up for you.

Question:  Is FoCal really necessary after Canon calibrates all your stuff to work together?  I just got all my stuff back from them and everything seems better without any AFMA at all!

Yes, that's right.  I do like using the Aperture sharpness test.  I want to play with the AF point tests too.

86

Lenses / Re: Workaround for Loose Lens Cap on 8-15mm Fisheye

« on: January 15, 2013, 04:57:01 AM »

The problem with the cap is that the it uses two latches on the cap to fix it to the hood (using inside ridges at the end of of the long hood petals). These latches does not have enough force to keep the cap in place, indeed it is possible to drop the cap merely by shaking the lens/hood/cap (if it's in the "wrong" position). So how to increase the force provided by the latches?
 
This is relatively easy, the cap latch mechanism is a single plastic construction that can be removed (this relates NOT to the hood with its single release button). This is done by pushing one of the latch buttons all the way in, towards the centre of the cap, and then gently pressing it down into the cap, it should release/pop out of the inside grooves.
Repeat for the opposite latch. The entire latch ring can now be removed. It has the shape of a slightly flattened circle with the latches at opposite ends. At the inside of the push buttons one can see the latch ridges that interlocks with the hood.
To increase the holding force,  the latch ridges should be made to be further apart. This can be done by placing an object inside the ring that increases the distance between the latches by approx 3-5mm (the ring will now look more circular).
 
Now for the scary part, use an adjustable heat gun with a narrow nozzle (10mm diameter) to reshape the plastic. The temperature of the air hitting the ring surface should not exceed 120 C, too hot and the plastic will melt (forcing you to buy a new cap).  Note that there should not be any signs of the plastic ring melting during the procedure and certainly NO smoke!
 
Carefully fan the centre 90 degrees of the exposed ring at opposite sides for approx 30-45 sec each (NOT the area of the latches, just the this part of the ring). Then leave the ring for a couple of minutes before removing the tensioning object in the middle. The procedure will "realign" the plastic shape, and should maintain its new shape.

You can now test the gripping force by inserting the ring into the hood (best to disconnect the hood from the lens first), if the grip is sufficient the ring can be re-inserted into the cap.  If not satisfied the procedure can be repeated with a slightly higher temperature or increased distance between the latches. Don't use excessive force when testing.

The cap should now have a much better grip. I can now lift the lens by the cap, previously the opposite was often not possible!

Note that the above procedure is done at our own risk.

Interesting.  I wonder if you can get a similar affect by just using some tape.  I find I can fix 80% of the stuff around the house with tape and/or WD-40!  haha  oddly enough, my wife said that's what her mom used to say about her dad while growing up.

87

Lenses / Re: Sigma 8-16mm on FF & Crop Vs Fisheye on FF & 15-85 @ 15

« on: January 15, 2013, 04:51:03 AM »

interesting.  is the lens hood "fixed" onto the Sigma? 

88

Lenses / Re: Making the most out of a 50 1.2?

« on: January 15, 2013, 04:48:17 AM »

man, i want one.  especially after selling my 50mm f/1.4...

SOLD my 1.4 and went with 50L. It feels much better on 5D III.

maybe I should rent one.  renting the 100mm macro L cured my gear lust for it.  I realized I could do what I needed with extension tubes and that $900 could go towards something I'd use more often.  (That's when I bought the 70-200!)

My fear is that I'll like it so much more than my 35L that I'll just have to have one.  I really do love my 35L.  I found it more useful FL for me compared to my 50 1.4.  But maybe I was just not liking the IQ I was getting on the 50 1.4....here's to hoping I don't fall in love at first sight with the rented copy.

89

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: 5D3 & 600ex-rt + AF assist beam = slower focus

« on: January 15, 2013, 04:39:39 AM »

Have you used it in a live situation yet? Dark venue like a wedding reception or another event.

Also, I just realized that I shot at my cousin's wedding on 12/30/12 with my gear.  It wasn't a paid gig for me so it didn't come to mind when I replied.  I just shot for fun while the hired photographer did the actual work.

yes it was dark on the dance floor. yes, I used my mk3 and 600 (and an addtl of camera flash).  No, I didn't feel any lag in the AF.

90

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: 5D3 & 600ex-rt + AF assist beam = slower focus

« on: January 15, 2013, 04:36:05 AM »

no i haven't but i think a pitch black room with no lights on in the middle of the night is pretty much the same thing as far as lighting conditions go.

From what I read the distance of the object lit by the af assist seems to have a significant impact on the focusing ability, next to the lens used... and your "pitch black" setup might sound like a worst case scenario, but not that's necessarily true because in real life the camera has to deal with varying combinations of af and real light.

good point.  I was focusing on something about 5 ft in front me.  I was able to see the AF beam through the camera because it was so dark and the red really stood out.... and yes, when I say pitch black, I mean pitch black.  no street lights shining in through a window... nothing.  pitch BLACK.

so anyways, i tested again with as much distance as I could in the same room... the longest dimension of the room is about 30 feet so I just pointed at the wall 30 ft away, even though i couldn't see a damn thing, waited for focus, and shot.... AF worked fine, like I was in a well lit room.  the wall was far enough away that I sure as hell couldn't see the AF beam on it.  Focus was fine.

I have other thoughts on variables that might be tripping people up:

1) what lenses are we having issues with?  I used both the 24-70 2.8 II and the 70-200 2.8 IS II... both at 2.8 when I did my "testing".  Maybe f/4 lenses are having a harder time seeing the AF beam in low light. 

2) Also, would the color/pattern of what you are focusing on in low light contribute to the camera having a hard time.  For example, if the subject was RED in color, or even had something with red tones in it, maybe there wasn't enough contrast between the subject and the AF beam from the 600.

3) Maybe the problem is in the speed lights and not the 5D mk3.  Low batteries maybe?  maybe without fresh batteries, the AF assist beam isn't bright enough.  or maybe some of the new 600 ex-rt units (remember those are new too) have issues

I'm just trying to find a way to re-create the issue that people are having.  There's obviously enough of a problem (or two) with this combo that a lot of people are noticing a significantly slower focus speed.  I for one cannot re-create the problem.  I swear, it's just about as fast as if i was focusing in broad daylight. 

Can any of the other people who have the issue reply with the lenses they've used, the subject/color they're shooting, and try it with different speed lights with fresh batteries?