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Definitely get the Giottos!
It's made of Schott German Glass and its' very nice! I use these on all of my cameras, as they come in different sizes. The clarity is great and they don't bubble up.
The MKIV uses the 3 inch model below:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/483871-REG/Giottos_SP8300_SP8300_AEGIS_Professional_Glass.html
I use ZAGG InvisiShield on all my LCD products, especially my camera bodies. ZAGG product includes smaller protectors for top and bottom windows, as well as, the main LCD.Oh ok ya I use zagg for my phone I saw they had it I just didn't know it if came with the smaller ones
All are good, personal preference is ZAGG.
Sorry, I misread what you were asking.That's a really fair price for such low acuations. No idea if that's spelled right but thank for the info about the mirror as well
Its difficult to give a cost for a shutter. If it dies at a ripe old age, its likely that the mirror box and some other wirk will need to be done, while a new camera with a bad shutter might get fixed for $500. with your discount, $300 allowance for the shutter sounds reasonable. I sold my 1D MK IV for $4200 recently with a very low shutter count, under 2,000.
A old 1D X?Sorry old mark iv and ok will do, I know it'll go more than 300k he's just used it hard so didn't know how much longer it'd be ok
I'd ask Canon, not too many have worn out their shutters yet. The camera should go much longer than 270K actuations.
Is there any computer program for Mac that can compile a time lapse together other than cs6? Cs6 seems to take forever and doesn't seem to keep the quality of the photos
If CS6 is doing something wrong to yiur photos, you are doing something wrong. CS6 should tie yiu the same quality as you can get in Lightroom. I use it all the time with no problems, but my workflow is probably different. I take the photos in RAW and full size, not smaller as someone suggested, and the reason for that is when shooting in lower resolution, the hot pixels if you are shooting stars, will not be corrected unless you are shooting at full res. second, there is this great program for Lightroom called LRtimelapse, which let you analyze and correct flickering, and animate every single parameter of Lightroom, and then I export something about 2.5K wide to After Effects in JPG so it is faster, since is already color corrected in Lightroom, or you can even export movies directly from Lightroom.
How big were the original JPeG files? If you're shooting full high resolution then storing hundreds or thousands of 18MP or 21MP JPeGs then importing to Adobe Premiere Pro CS6 or Photoshop CS6 it could cause some issues, especially if you don't have a lot of RAM on your computer.
When shooting time-lapse it is better to shoot smaller file sizes. Plus what video output size is your sequence e.g. I usually output 1080p (1920 x 1080 = 2MP) which is still a lot smaller than the smallest file size on my Canon 7D
I would consider Singh-Ray to be on a par with Lee, they have filters to fit both Cokin P and Lee adaptors.
As to availability, it probably depends on the market. In the UK, I had to wait 9 months for a grad set last year, but someone I know bought a set a few weeks ago and they arrived in less than a week, so supply issues have eased. Bear in mind though, that Lee tend to produce to order, rather than keep a stock, so there will be supply problems of certain items from time to time. Some suppliers will however keep their own stock.
Schneider Optics (parent company of B+W) makes Schott glass ND grads, check their MPTV line.
I've been shooting a lot of birds lately and one problem I've been having is keeping them in focus while flying. I have tried al servo, regular etc, and once in a while I'll hit in spot on, but usually in a burst out of 15 photos 3 will focus on the bird lol. Is there a technique or tip anyone might have for all those fast birds out there
using mono pod or ball head w/ 500mm sometimes with 1.4 or 2x extender
Are you using center focus point? If you are using any type of zone focus then your camera might be grabbing on to whatever is within other focus points, especially if the birds are smaller or farther away.
Using such a long lens can take a lot of practice. When I went from 300mm to 600mm I was like a monkey with a match problem at first. Not saying you have not spent lots of time behind the lens, but for me I just had to practice practice practice.... and still getting better at it.
Also a small tip on getting BIF into your viewfinder is to orient the knob on your lens hood so it is directly centered on top of the end of the lens barrel. This way you can look over your hotshoe over the knob and line it up with a bird. Then just tilt the lens up just a tad while looking into the view finder and you will find it much quicker. The sooner you find it, the easier it will be to track.