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Messages - SwissBear

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Software & Accessories / Re: Macro gear suggestions for 5DIII?
« on: July 25, 2013, 09:30:50 AM »
I own the siggy 150mm OS, its a nice piece of glass, although rather on the heavier side. The added reach is quite nice, the only real down of the lens is the focus breathing. I asked sigma for exact numbers, 118mm@1:3 and 78mm@1:1. Due to physics, the 100L should not be much better.

Lenses / Re: Bokeh: better f/2.8 wide open than f/1.4 stopped down?
« on: July 16, 2013, 04:19:10 AM »
In short, keep doing maths and get good at estimating distances and very wide aperture become more than a 1 eye focus machine.

+1....  Maths is key... There is actually an app for that on your phone...  you tell it your camera, lens, shooting dist etc and it will tell you the depth of the focal plane...  i played with it until i got a feel for my lenses. :)

Math is always nice, but these calcs are actually physics! Maths does not deal with such... "applicable" problems ;)

I need that app! details please!

EOS-M / Re: What is the best Raw Converter for EOS M?
« on: July 15, 2013, 05:28:52 PM »
from a technical point of view, i'd say all programs are about the same. some do this adjustment better, some another.
But i think three things more import than the actual output on a single file:
  • Workflow
  • Organizing content
  • user interface
I can only talk about DPP and Lightroom, and DPP looses three times in these points. The only up it gets is that the raws directly from camera look about the same as the JPEG, to achieve the same in lightroom, some setup would be needed, but i'm kinda lazy to do it, as the interface&workflow are so nice.
I think the lightroom interface is a bit more intuitive than the adobe raw converter found in CS/Elements.
I'm a huge fan of lightroom, but before 5.1 is released, I'll stay with 4.x.

Lenses / Re: Next purchase?
« on: July 14, 2013, 04:30:45 PM »
If you want a real low light improvement, then f/2.8 is not enough. I have 2 suggestions:
  • Siggy 18-35 f/1.8 & Canon 85 f/1.8
    The latter is a very impressing lens on a crop, the CA's can easily be corrected in post. The first one is probably the next lens I get, the reviews look VERY promising. If you stretch your budget a bit, also a 135L fits ;)
  • 6D & 24-105
    Sell everything that doesnt work on FF and buy this kit.

Assuming the same shutter speed, and max aperture, for example ISO of 400 on the 7D results in ISO 2000 on the 6D (i guess that the noise is more or less the same, maybe favs the 7D?), but then again the 6D is full frame and does better portraits or at least more blurred background.

Lenses / Re: Indoor Lens recommendations?
« on: July 11, 2013, 08:07:05 AM »
For range, nothing beats the 70-200. Either the Canon IS II, or then, based on reviews, the newest from tamron. Maybe such a lens is too long. My 150mm lens is superb for portraits (head only) at a distance of some 4-5 meters.

On the other hand, the sigma 18-35 f/1.8 seems very promising, and paired with a canon 85 f/1.8 you also get some reach. No image stabilization on both, but a good stop faster than the zoom.

Something in between these two options would be the sigma 50-150 f/2.8 (DC OS).

Ever thought about a monopod?

Concernig the lenses you mention, the canon&tamron 24-70 have very good reviews. A prime makes you move quite a lot at social events, but the added macro capability offers yet another playfield ;)
Whether the new siggy 17-70 C is any good, I dont know...

Canon General / Re: fair compensation?
« on: July 11, 2013, 07:39:15 AM »
i think it's not very much, but ok. It's some 5ct per printed calendar ;)

As long as you only sell them print permission, and not the image right, it sounds right, but far away from the deal of a lifetime ;)

Canon General / Re: Lost inspiration
« on: July 11, 2013, 05:25:56 AM »
Well, for me its hard to shoot in a known environment, but then again I'm more the nature/cityscape photographer. The main reason is "I see it everyday, so it's nothing special".

I also need to be relaxed - if my to-do list is too long, my mind is not free enough to dive into the viewfinder.

Transition kills creativity

I must disagree with that because I see it as "a new place to discover".

Oh, and... as far as I know, everybody takes bad pictures. They showed us boxes of "garbage" from various artists during a lecture at the Fotomuseum Winterthur.

Lenses / Re: Does IS make bokeh busier/less smooth?
« on: July 11, 2013, 05:03:52 AM »
The argument with the axis: why is the object in focus not affected, but the not in focus are?
Wouldnt this change the axis on the in focus object too?

Well, thats the magic of the IS ;)

The angle of the plane of focus in relation to the object/camera may be affected, that depends on the way the IS works. If the IS works as a shift element, then the focal plane is not affected. If it works as a tilt element, then there is a minimal change:
If the maximal correctable shift is some 1mm in any direction (my guess, maybe its lower), the subject distance is still 1m, then the angular change of the focal plane is:
0.001/1=tan(alpha), solve for 2alpha, which is approx. 0.002rad or 0.115 degree.
I have no clue how an IS really works...

But more important is the actual position shift of the objects out of focus:
The position change of the far object can also be calculated: 2mm/1000m=x/10mm => x=0,2mm (32 pixel shift on a 5DIII, or some 46 pixel on the 18MP crop sensor as found in the 600D and others)
These are purely theoretical values, as the IS element is surely near the nodal point to lessen this parallax error.

I try to think of CR the next time I get a bad pic due to IS interference.
If you want to force bad bokeh, try the 70-200 or the 24-105 at its maximum focal length, focus on something like a single reed, a flower/fruit in a tree - something that is isolated, small so you get near MFD and has anyway a wild background. At least all pics i got with this IS-bad-bokeh were on such a setup - normally they were visible on the camera LCD so I took it again.

Lenses / Re: Does IS make bokeh busier/less smooth?
« on: July 09, 2013, 09:27:37 PM »
I threw the question out there because I thought it's been asked before and I thought there would be a ready answer.

Indeed it has already been asked, but then the discussion came to no ending and definitively not to an easy answer.
But I can offer you the following easy theoretical optical experiment:

Be the camera shake along an axis that does not contain the nodal point of the setup or is orthogonal to the optical axis, for the ease of the argument a up-down movement. At the time of the release, the IS element corrects a the extreme on one side, at shutter close on the other extreme. This results in a sharp subject.
Now be there a main subject 1m away from the sensor and a DOF of 10cm (form 0.95m to 1.05m). Be there two other subjects at 0.9m and 1.1m. Be All subjects static. Now it is easy to imagine what happens during the release (with the described shake). The main subject stays in focus (thanks to the IS), but the relative positions of the two other subjects as seen from the sensor change, or simply, a parallax error occurs.
This results in harsh/unruly/nasty/... bokeh. Sadly, I have no example as I dump such occurings as soon as i spot them.

Yes, an active IS can have a negative effect on bokeh.
Switching IS off renders always the bokeh that is "normal" for the lens.

from a purely mathematical/physical point of view, you have two options for such a scenario:
  • Calculate the average (or something similar) of these four pixels, this reduces noise
  • Add the values of these four pixels, this wouldn't result in much better noise, but, if i thought about it right, would give you a 4 stops brighter image. Also an iteresting option ;)

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Weak LP-e6 battery
« on: July 07, 2013, 04:48:20 PM »
I use my cells till they are dead or better said, the camera shuts down and doesnt release anymore. Then i grab my backup cell, hope its charged, and normally i then go on (or go crying...).
LiIon cells hold some 95% of capacity for 2 years after leaving the factory or some 500 cycles (a cycle means charging, doesnt matter whether it's 30% or full charge), after that the degradation starts. That is chemistry or physics - choose whichever you trust more ;)
But the advantage of LiIon cells is: no memory effect, that was the case with NiMh cells.

So the conclusion for LiIon cells: use as long as the last, the built-in security against discharge kicks in way before any damage may occure, if you recharge in a few days (as mentioned before), recharge when empty, not before.

The best storage charge is 40% or 3.75V in a dry, noncondesing environment at ~0-4° Celsius (sealed, rice filled box in the fridge), but be cautious: 0% in camera means still a save (but totally unknown) level above the critical discharge, where the cell dies.
A measurement of the "empty" voltage would be interesting...

Lenses / Re: EF mount vs F mount and adapter
« on: June 27, 2013, 03:26:04 PM »
My guess is that the SamBowRok Lenses have some special interior "mount" where the Canon/Nikon/Sony/... mount is screwed in. As the nikon mount has a longer flange distance, the F->EF adapter is a pipe with some dents at the right place.
There seems to be no obvious problem with your solution...

For studio work, a 5DII (yes, 2/two) might also work quite fine!

Lenses / Re: Help complete my bundle...
« on: June 19, 2013, 07:35:22 PM »
Some people were quite fond of the 50mm focal length on full frame and said it was all they needed...

When I was about to purchase a flash, I finally decided on the 580, it was about 25% more expensive than the 430 but offered more, and so far, i haven't regretted my decision.

Best thing would be to check your most used focal lenghts (there seem to be some lightroom plugins that can count that) and the images that went wrong because the limits of your gear.

On the other hand, if you really wanna learn and grow into "capture that moment", get a 6D, put that nifty fifty on it and and think again in a year what you do with the rest of the money ;)

EOS Bodies / Re: Bizarre grid "pattern" with Rebel t3i/600d
« on: June 19, 2013, 05:24:22 AM »
a 1:1 crop might help?

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