September 18, 2014, 12:01:59 AM

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - RustyTheGeek

Pages: 1 ... 7 8 [9] 10 11 ... 60
121
EOS Bodies / Re: 6D+7Dii Vs 5D mkiii
« on: August 07, 2014, 05:11:39 PM »
I rather have one advance body then multiple bodies with lack of capabilities.

Dylan - with all due respect, I think all the bodies we are comparing would qualify as 'advanced bodies', would you not agree?  With the bodies mentioned, I don't see a lot of missing capabilities.  You can't make a crop into a FF or vice versa.  I think that's the whole point of the discussion.  Go with a single FF sensor camera with one set of features or two different size sensor cameras with complimentary features for their respective designs.

122
EOS Bodies / Re: 6D+7Dii Vs 5D mkiii
« on: August 07, 2014, 04:43:14 PM »

Thanks for your advice. I will try to rent a 5D3 to see the difference before I decide to buy it. I was excited to see the refurbished in stock after a long time and get the price down to $2500.

If you get a chance, share more of the story.  Which lens?  Indoor or outdoor shooting?  AF mode?  Are you moving with the child or are you stationary?  Panning and chasing a small child is a challenge for any camera to AF.  Anytime the camera moves while the subject is moving it makes the challenge much greater than following a moving subject with a still camera.  I'm just trying to imagine the situation with a small child.

123
EOS Bodies / Re: 6D+7Dii Vs 5D mkiii
« on: August 07, 2014, 04:23:23 PM »
If you take everything else out of the equation, Purchase Price, IQ, FL etc then you are left with personal choice and habits.  Do you like owning photo equipment?
-----
I have both the 5D3 and 6D and they both are excellent.  Don't sell the 6D short based on what some people say.  Try it and decide for yourself.

with your expertise please throw in some light to clear a similar confusion. I have a 6D and I like the camera, but these days my keeper rate is far below 50%. My kid is now 15 months and I am not able to focus quickly to capture her actions or to keep up with the pace. Photos are perfect when I can nail the focus with center point but I am finding it difficult to always work with the center point.
I wanted to upgrade to 5D3 but have no idea on how much improvement would it be for my scenario (other than kid it would be mostly Portraits n Nature). With Canon refurbished in stock for 5D3, I think I can get the body for $2500 (10% Loyalty) . But reading this forum posts I am confused if I should wait for 5D4 next yr beginning or 7D2 next month (Budget will be another constraint)... thanks for your time

Hi Clik,

I think there are many variables to consider with your issue.  Which lens, how much light, technique, etc.  The simple answer to your question would be to rent or borrow another 6D and/or a 5D3 and see if your situation changes for the better using the same lens, etc.  If you fail to detect a significant improvement, something else might be going on.  I think it's critical to determine where your problem truly lies by ruling out assumptions before you start shopping to spend a lot of money and possibly be disappointed.

In general, my 6D doesn't focus quite as fast as my 5D3 but it's not a huge difference and it doesn't hamper normal use for me.  (I use center point focus on all my cameras.)  Have you considered using AI Servo to see if it improves your AF performance and keeper rate?  I'll help however I can but I just want to assure you that while I find the 5D3 is a better AF performer for moving subjects, sports, etc, I don't think the 6D is total dog either.  Chasing kids is tough with any camera!   ;)  There's more to AF performance than just the camera.  I suspect this could be an lens issue or something else.  The 6D is actually a BETTER performer in low light situations and any camera will struggle to focus depending on the available light.  Indoors can sometimes seem to be pretty well lit but the camera doesn't always agree.  Are you having trouble with your keeper rate indoors?

124
EOS Bodies / Re: 6D+7Dii Vs 5D mkiii
« on: August 07, 2014, 02:54:28 PM »
If you take everything else out of the equation, Purchase Price, IQ, FL etc then you are left with personal choice and habits.  Do you like owning photo equipment?

Using a crop sensor for reach is much easier than manually cropping individual images.  Having two bodies has its advantages and it also has some disadvantages.  You have a backup body and more choices with focal lengths, etc.  It's also fun to have a brand new camera, it's twice as fun to have two!  (LOL)   ;D  But when you are walking out the door, sometimes it's a headache comparing the two bodies, lenses, etc to decide which camera is best to take with which lenses if you just want to take a single camera.  It's a mental exercise keeping the two bodies straight in your head with regard to best uses, etc.  But if you have a FF body to go with the crop body, you can concentrate on higher quality EF lenses and avoid EF-S lenses.  Usually, the only reason to buy EF-S lenses (for me anyway) is to get more width on a crop sensor and having a FF body will eliminate that need.  If the batteries are the same, you won't have to double up on that.  You may have to buy more memory cards though.

IMHO, both camera scenarios are going to work great.  Either the 6D + 7D2 or the single 5D3 will be great.  If you can afford it, rent the 6D and the 5D3 now and compare them.  That will help you decide about the FF body part of the equation.  If the 5D3 isn't to your liking for BIF shots, etc then it's pretty clear that the new 7D2 is the body for you along with the 6D for FF use.  I have both the 5D3 and 6D and they both are excellent.  Don't sell the 6D short based on what some people say.  Try it and decide for yourself.

125
Canon General / Re: Which Lens to Take
« on: August 07, 2014, 12:22:09 PM »
Zv makes good points.  What are you shooting?

Think long and hard about what you will really actually do while you're on the trip.  In reality, you will probably shoot only a fraction of what you envision now.

Taking good photos doesn't change when you're on the trail with a backpack.  What changes is your fatigue factor and ability to adapt.  For instance, when you take pictures of the trail and the hikers with you, you will get a lot of backs unless you work hard to get in the front of the line, get way up ahead and then watch for a good spot to turn around and fire off some shots.  Many folks will be looking down at the ground so you have to get them to look up and smile.  It won't be long before folks will get tired of you taking pictures of them and YOU will get tired of trying!

When you are in camp or having a trail break, you will also be tired.  You won't feel like digging through your pack for another lens or setting up a tripod, you'll just want to sit, drink and snack and talk with friends.

I guess what I'm trying to say is that your energy level will dictate how much you do and if you don't utilize all the heavy gear you take, you will just be wasting energy to carry it for nothing.  Most of your photography will probably be either candid people and group shots or landscape and wildlife shots.  You can get all that with one lens.  And honestly, it can be done fairly well with something like an SX50 as well.  The only reason to take a fast prime lens is if you seriously intend to shoot low light campfire shots.  But you probably won't have a campfire and everyone will likely be asleep by dark anyway.  The nifty 50 probably won't auto focus well in low light, (most lenses won't) so you'll be on manual for that.  You might be able to get away with the Pancake 40 in this case.  Imagine how simple and light an SL1 + Pancake 40 would be!  But I wouldn't be able to give up a longer zoom either so I understand if you passed on that.

If you are going on this trip specifically to get more elaborate shots, esp if it's an assignment or photography job, then take only what you need and reserve the extra weight for things that will really count like ND filters, CPL, efficient lightweight tripod, etc.  Try it all out, test it, work with it and make sure it will do what you need.

Please let us know what you decide to take and what you plan to shoot.  It sounds like a great trip!!

126
Canon General / Re: Which Lens to Take
« on: August 07, 2014, 10:11:34 AM »
This trip sounds like it could be an advanced hike.  Is it a photography themed short group hike or something more strenuous that you want to take photo gear along on?  If so, the bigger question is what kind of hiker are you and what else are you carrying?  What is your pack weight?  How long are you on the trail?  Will you stop at any camps or places to refill or rest other than trail spots?  Are you in good physical condition and have you been training?  Have you hiked at that altitude before?  Is all of your other hiking/camping gear in place and do you have a good proven system/strategy you've evolved from past hiking experience?

Have you taken any cameras or gear with you before on the trail?  How were they carried, stored and protected?  What happens when it rains/snows, etc?  Are you prepared to lose your camera gear to damage or worse?  (I accept the fact that I could break what I'm carrying at any time on the trail.  My biggest concern are the pictures, not the gear.)

I am seeing more threads that discuss outdoor hiking and camping that include camera gear.  My concern is that folks let packing the camera gear overshadow the more important aspects of hiking comfort and safety.  Experienced hikers know what they are capable of and where to draw the line when it comes to secondary items and activities.

My advice is to KEEP IT SIMPLE.  Don't take more than one or two lenses.  Keep the weight down.  Take plenty of batteries because cooler temps run them down.  Depending on how cold it is, you might end up keeping the batteries inside your coat next to your body and inside your sleeping bag the entire trip.

Based on the gear you listed, I also suggest that you just take the 24-105.  But both the 5D2 and 5D3 are heavy.  Depending on what you plan to shoot, you might consider buying a Canon Rebel or SL1 with a kit lens and save yourself a lot of weight and worry about your heavier more expensive equipment.  (I recently took an SL1 + Tamron 18-270 lens on the trail for over 10 days and it worked well for my needs.)  Or get a Powershot like the SX50.  The easiest thing to carry is have a Powershot D20 hanging from your pack strap but I realize that is a huge compromise compared to an SLR.

Whatever you do, PRACTICE, PRACTICE!!  Take the gear with you on hikes before the big trip, use it and see how it all works.  How does it feel on your pack, how does it swing, does it get wet, how do you deal with it when you take off the pack, sit in camp, walk places, sleep, etc.  How are you carrying your drinking water?  When you drink on the trail, will it spill on the camera?  How will you deal with humidity?  Dust?  Dirty lens?  Will you have trekking poles?  If so, where will the poles go when you want to shoot pictures on the trail?  If you are with a group, they won't want to stop every few minutes and you won't want to keep handing others your poles, etc to use the camera.

Sorry if you are already a seasoned and experienced hiker but if you're not, I don't want the trip to be a bust because you haven't considered all the aspects of carrying camera gear on the trail.  I want you to be safe and not put yourself or others at risk.  Taking heavy extra gear on the trail is not as simple as it seems.  Or maybe I just have ultra high standards for my own comfort and performance.   At any rate, I sincerely hope you have a great time!  :)

127
Site Information / Re: Wedding Section
« on: August 07, 2014, 12:50:32 AM »
A Wedding Section would serve CR well I think.  I seem to recall a lot of interesting threads over the years that discussed many aspects of wedding photography.

-  Guest & Relative photogs
-  Photog image rights, conflicts, etc
-  Gear (of course)
-  Technique
-  Lighting
-  Crowd control
-  Business Issues

I see quite a few threads where folks are struggling because they own photo gear and have been asked to shoot a wedding for a friend/relative.  Many of us have been in that situation and want to do the best job possible without much time to prepare.  A lot of interesting ideas emerge in those threads sometimes.

128
Site Information / Re: Participant grading
« on: August 07, 2014, 12:05:45 AM »
Far as I can tell, everyone's name is still the same color RED so we're all still equal on a pretty fundamental level, eh?   ;)

129
Site Information / Re: Nikon adds on CR
« on: August 06, 2014, 11:59:41 PM »
And I thought all the ads I see here for adult diapers was because it was a gaining fad among photoraphers.  Might be nice in the kayak, or for shooting a concert, or being stuck in traffic on the way to location.

 :D :D ;D

Or for long trips to Florida!!   ;D

130
Site Information / Re: Critiques
« on: August 06, 2014, 11:58:06 PM »
The advantage of posting an image for critique on the Internets Tubes forum is that anyone can give their opinion on the quality of the image.

The disadvantage of posting an image for critique on the Internets Tubes forum is that anyone can give their opinion on the quality of the image. ;D

Getting critique from strangers about whom you know little about is of questionable value to me.

I would much rather get critique from people I personally know have experience, knowledge, and ability that goes beyond a post count on some internet forum.

That pretty well sums it up, but a photographer can also benefit by a critique given by a stranger as long as he is honest and polite about what he thinks.  The issue may be that we do not create photos for other photographers, but for a customer or the general public.  They often have 180 degree views, hence the million dollar photographs that photographers criticize.

IMHO - Posting images for others to critique is more about the photographer posting and asking for feedback than about the myriad individuals offering their opinion.

I guess what I'm trying to say is if you can't stand the heat, stay out of the kitchen.  If you don't like the song, turn off the radio.  Otherwise, put on your big boy pants and be prepared to take what comes, good, bad and in between.  Some advice is too nice, some is too harsh and some advice actually aims to help.  In truth, it's ALL helpful because the poster learns the different reactions his work generates from others.

131
Site Information / Re: Post Processing Section
« on: August 06, 2014, 11:37:27 PM »
Fabulous!   ;D

I can't wait to learn more about post processing!  I've thought about this before and I'm glad it was suggested, supported and has already been started!

CR is getting better quickly, by leaps and bounds!  Hurrah!   8)

Rusty

132
Canon 24mm f/1.4L - II EF USM AutoFocus Lens - $1350 - Arlington, Texas

I'm about to list it on eBayI dropped the price for the last time here and on CL.  Price is now less negotiable.

This lens is in Mint/Like New condition and it retails for $1750 new.  Please don't waste my time with low-ball offers.  Lens is offered as-is but I stand behind it as a solid A+ lens that is in pristine condition.  I ship with UPS or FedEx for better tracking and I pack extremely well.  I also have over 700 feedback (100%) on eBay as "rl01" since 1999.  I've been selling stuff online for a long time.  http://feedback.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewFeedback2&userid=rl01&ftab=AllFeedback&myworld=true&rt=nc

This listing is for a Canon 24mm f/1.4L - II EF USM AutoFocus Lens.  Serial number 2097890.  The lens hasn't been used much and I have finally decided to part with it. The lens comes with box, hood, lens pouch, lens cap, warranty card, etc.  (Everything it comes with new that has never left the box.  I leave everything including the hood and cap in the box and use my own caps, etc instead.)  The lens is in perfect condition and a 10/10.   It is superb in low light and extremely sharp.  It focuses fast and has beautiful bokeh.

Note:  I also have a pristine Hoya HD UV Filter (pictured) that has lived on the lens since I bought it.  It costs over $100+ new but I'll include it for only an additional $50 if desired.

You will LOVE THIS LENS. Great for everything, esp low light indoor and event photography. It's superb for outdoor landscapes and night sky photography.  The Canon EF 24mm f/1.4 L II USM Lens is, without question, Canon's best-performing (optically and physically) and best-built autofocus 24mm lens. If you want the best Canon 24mm AF lens, look no longer. This is it.  I don't think a bad review exists out there. I did the work for you...

http://www.canonrumors.com/reviews/review-canon-ef-24-f1-4l-ii/
http://www.fredmiranda.com/reviews/showproduct.php?product=369
http://www.amazon.com/Canon-24mm-1-4L-Wide-Angle/dp/B001GNCWCE
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-24mm-f-1.4-L-II-USM-Lens-Review.aspx
http://www.dpreview.com/products/canon/lenses/canon_24_1p4_ii
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/590449-USA/Canon_2750B002_EF_24mm_f_1_4L_II.html

Product Description:
Canon's newest fixed length L-series lens, the EF 24mm f/1.4L II USM, incorporates the newest in Canon lens technology for spectacular sharpness and impressive performance at all settings. It features two high-precision, large-diameter aspherical lenses for sharpness across the sensor, even in peripheral areas of full-frame sensors. Lens elements have a newly-designed anti-reflective SWC (Sub Wavelength Coating) that departs from conventional coatings by using an extremely fine structure that minimizes ghosting and flaring across the lens surface, regardless of the angle with which light enters or exits. It also features two UD lens elements to minimize chromatic aberrations, incorporates rear-focusing, ultrasonic, quiet and high-speed AF with full-time manual override. A circular aperture provides beautiful out-of-focus detail and offers legendary dust- and water-resistant L-series construction using only lead-free glass.

Specifications:
Filter Size: 77mm
F-Stop Range: 1.4-22
Minimum Focus Distance: 3.0 in./77mm
Magnification: 1:6.25
Angle Of View: 84 Degrees
Groups/Elements: 13 elements in 10 groups
Length x Diameter: 3.3" x 3.1" / 83.5 x 77.4mm
Weight: 22.9 oz./ 650g

Included Items: Front and Rear E-77U 77mm Lens Cap & Lens Dust Cap E, EW-83K Lens Hood, Lens Pouch LP1214.

133
Site Information / Re: Selling Forum Beta Test
« on: August 06, 2014, 04:51:10 PM »
My "huh?" was because I did not understand the original post and what the message was. Perhaps someone could translate ... ?


In essence, the post is saying that the (owner of CR) is closer to making a decision on providing a classified (buy/sell) section on CR, so that CR members have an outlet to buy and/or sell photographic equipment and that PayPal will be the mechanism to handle transactions between buyer/seller. 

But first they want to test (beta) and gather some data on how this will work before making the feature widely available.

Yes.  That.   Thanks lilmsmaggie:)

Think of it as a way for the powers that be at CR to offer a service to those that frequent the forum often and contribute consistently.  Up to now, any post that discusses selling has been against the rules for a variety of reasons and was pulled with a warning to the member.  CR is considering trying to relax that restriction a bit but not so much that a lot of scams occur.

For instance, when I want to sell an expensive L lens, it would be nice to toss out a quick sales notice to CR members who I already communicate with often and give them a chance to buy it.  They already understand its value and there is a level of trust based on familiarity.  Heck, I may have bought the lens originally because of CR discussions in the first place!

I don't think CR wants to become another eBay, FredMiranda or CraigsList site for photographers.  They are simply trying to help out and give back to CR members that have demonstrated integrity and whose contributions raise CR above other sites.  Unfortunately, a buy/sell section is a lot of work along with liability which is why it hasn't happened before.  Plus, to do it well, it requires software that CR doesn't currently have.

I think it's great that CR is willing to take a few risks and put forth the effort with this beta for the benefit of members.   :D

134
I've kept an eye on the rugged market for years because it's interesting and there is a lot of potential but unfortunately it's remains virtually untapped with all the cameras being fairly the same in function and form.

For that reason, I've purchased three Canon rugged P&S cameras for my needs over the years... the D10 in 2008, the D20 in 2011 and the D30 in 2014 (for a friend actually, not me).  They have all been winners for me.  They all still work and they all share the same battery.

All of the Canon rugged cameras work about the same and produce about the best pictures (on avg) on the market for that type of camera.  They have been reliable, consistent and the menus are similar to other Canon products.

With that said... I am intrigued by the Pentax K-3 DSLR Rugged and the Nikon 1 AW1.  Both are much more expensive and are essentially buying into a whole new system, esp the Pentax.  For that reason, I haven't jumped on them but do look like they would be cool.

For better quality, I just returned from 10+ days on the dusty/dry/wet/rainy trail hiking in New Mexico using a Canon SL1 + Tamron 18-270 camera.  It's not ruggedized but it worked great and I simply took careful care of it.  Of course, I wasn't at the beach and I wasn't in the water.  So it's not a perfect solution by any means.  It's just what I did because I could.

135
My TC experience is this...

I've never used a Canon TC because Canon seems to limit their use quite a bit.  Someone needs to convince me that a more expensive and limiting Canon TC is a better choice and why.  (I guess the IQ could be better but how much?)  So far I haven't figured it out or purchased a Canon TC.

Tamron 1.4X SP 140F-CA (Japan) (White Color) - This was my first TC purchased years ago and it works fine EXCEPT when I tried to use it with my new 70-300L last year!  The 70-300L did some strange clicking and the AF/IS was jumpy and erratic.  So I took it off and didn't use it with the 70-300L again.

Kenko 1.4X C-AF Teleplus Pro 300 DGX (Japan) (Black Color) - I purchased this last year for use with the 70-300L after the Tamron demonstrated the weird behavior on that lens.  It works great and seems to be a favorite on this thread.  I also use this TC with my 70-200 f/2.8L IS USM -II lens with good results.

In general BOTH teleconverters work great but get the Kenko to avoid the problem I had with the 70-300L.  They both cost a stop of light but other than slight AF delay when the light gets weak, they have always worked as good as one can expect on the following bodies... 40D, 60D, 6D and 5D3.

WARNINGI almost had a lens fall off of a camera using the TC because the release is very easy to bump when you carry the camera off to the right side of your hip hanging upside down the way I do on a black rapid type of strap.  I now use a bit of gaffer tape over the release button and across the lens+TC+camera to keep the lens from turning.  I also have some gaffer tape over the switches on the lenses for the same reason, they tend to rub on my leg and get changed.  Then I pull the camera up and the AF is turned off or something.  Grrr!  Aaaargh!   :o

Pages: 1 ... 7 8 [9] 10 11 ... 60