August 20, 2014, 05:16:53 AM

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Messages - RustyTheGeek

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121
EOS Bodies / Re: DSLR ? - thinking out loud ....
« on: July 17, 2014, 02:18:47 PM »
As for the DR and color, that's precisely why I want an EVF: I want to compose using what the sensor can see, so I have a better idea of the final image.  This is another plus for EVF.

So you want a better idea of what the in-camera JPG conversion will look like, if displayed on an uncalibrated monitor with low resolution and a poor color gamut?  Sounds like a big minus for EVF to me, particularly for anyone who shoots RAW...

+1  Ditto!

122
Lenses / Re: Camera setup for dental clinic
« on: July 15, 2014, 06:15:38 PM »
Looks like the 100mm non-L macro is what others are using

http://www.photomed.net/components.htm


I did some web searching as well and it appears that just about any decent lens, esp the macro lenses will work.  The real trick appears to involve using special mirrors inside the mouth to help expose the target tooth, etc.

Personally, I would probably just get a decent Rebel body, EF (not L) macro lens and a decent aftermarket flash and/or ring light.

123
Lenses / Re: RLPhotos first impressions of the 16-35mm f/4L - Video
« on: July 15, 2014, 12:48:07 PM »
RL, do you have a favorite set of ND filters you typically like to carry?  Everything takes up space and weight so I figure you have 2 or 3 that you use that work best and offer the most versatility.  I've put off buying these because I figured I would eventually just purchase a variable ND filter from probably Singh-Ray with some filter adapters.  But of course that's expensive so I keep putting it off.  Thoughts?

http://www.singh-ray.com/shop/vari-nd-variable-neutral-density-filter/

For my NDs, it's all LEE filters. My polarizers are all B+W screw on and combining both together get me what I need.

I have
1. 2 stop pro glass LEE ND.
2. 10 Stop glass Big Stopper LEE ND.
3. 2 stop resin hard and soft edged LEE NDs.
4. All the wide angle adapter rings.

If I use a polarizer, I use B+W Kaesmann x-s slim mount filters then the Lee system on top. It works pretty well @ 17mm with some slight vignette but disappears by 19mm. I have no vignette if I just use the LEE system alone.

Good filters are worth the cash and actually hold some value over time. I like to buy once and use them for years instead of cheaping out and getting something subpar and having to buy again. I don't have experience with Singh ray filters and Don't own a variable ND. :P


Thanks for the ultra-fast reply post RL!  I agree and do the same, buy the higher quality filters, etc and keep them a long time.  Cheap = disposable which has it's merits/uses as well but most of the time I prefer a much harder, more durable filter that will last for years and provide better images along the way.  For instance, I use cheaper clear filters when shooting swimming because the chlorinated pool water splashes can damage the filter coatings.

I'll consider your filter method before I purchase.  But if I get the variable ND instead, I'll try to provide you some feedback if it works as well as I've read some photographers have said.

124
Lenses / Re: RLPhotos first impressions of the 16-35mm f/4L - Video
« on: July 15, 2014, 12:19:34 PM »
RL, do you have a favorite set of ND filters you typically like to carry?  Everything takes up space and weight so I figure you have 2 or 3 that you use that work best and offer the most versatility.  I've put off buying these because I figured I would eventually just purchase a variable ND filter from probably Singh-Ray with some filter adapters.  But of course that's expensive so I keep putting it off.  Thoughts?

http://www.singh-ray.com/shop/vari-nd-variable-neutral-density-filter/

125
Lenses / Re: RLPhotos first impressions of the 16-35mm f/4L - Video
« on: July 14, 2014, 10:14:35 PM »
My last post to wrap up this thread. A final goodbye to the 17-40L for me and looking back at some of my favorite photos it captured before it's sold on evilbay.

Very cool little discussion that really makes me want to take some ND filters with me more often.  Thanks for the nice walk through some of your fun images and their back story.  This helps inspire me to try more stuff, even when I'm tired or not always in the mood while travelling!

126
Lenses / Re: RLPhotos first impressions of the 16-35mm f/4L - Video
« on: July 14, 2014, 10:03:24 PM »
I scanned/skimmed all the responses/comments on this thread about the new 16-35/F4 IS Lens.  Unfortunately, instead of discussing the lens, for the most part everyone just discussed RLPhoto's chosen video review method and more comments on each others' posts/personal views or asswholishness.

So to follow the flow of this thread, I guess I should comment on the comments... or wait, maybe not.  Who cares?  I read the CR Forum because it's NOT like most other threads that degenerate into petty comments about irrelevant things like whether RL should or should not have used video, if other posters are polite enough or whatever else.  Aww crap... I just commented on the comments.   ::)

RLPhoto - great job.  I viewed the videos from the perspective of joining you at your house for a beer while you share your new lens.  The videos came across that way with informed thoughts and information.  I can read written reviews in many places and it was nice to put a face/voice with a name after all this time.  Next time however, might I suggest at least 2 or 3 hot babes dancing while you do the video review.  That might distract anyone that would otherwise notice other problems with your video or methods.   :P

Question:  I assume that what you are shooting at F4 with IS allowing you to extend shutter time to almost a second in low light is a still subject, correct?  Because if the subject moves, IS is useless.  I know you are aware of this but didn't mention it in the video.  No big deal but some folks might forget that little fact.

I am impressed with the idea of using IR to expose hot spots of the lens.  Great!

127
Lenses / Re: Camera setup for dental clinic
« on: July 14, 2014, 09:16:50 PM »
I think I have a good EF 60mm Macro lens if you're interested.  I agree that live view + articulated screen would be a good setup.  I also have a 60D to go with the 60mm!   :)

IMHO, you could probably do fine with a 3rd party macro light, at least until you're sure that the equipment setup is working the way you expect.

Question:  How do you plan to get the image files transferred over to the computer/dental software?  Eye-Fi perhaps??

I'm an IT Guy and I've worked with a few dental offices.  Does your dental office software have a easy to use photo import feature to attach photos to the patients' record files?  Do you already have an iCat or other type of x-ray device that your dental software manages the image files from?

My thought is that the camera might be the easiest part.  The hard part is getting the photos imported and attached to the patient records correctly and easy enough that the entire staff can do it correctly every time.

Don't forget that whatever workflow you come up with should adhere to the HIPAA laws.  (Like the WiFi must be encrypted and ideally the SD cards never leave the camera to avoid loss/theft/confusion.)

128
Canon General / Re: CF CARDS
« on: June 17, 2014, 04:58:55 PM »
This is all good info.

I personally prefer CF because I've always found it to be more reliable and stable.  (More grounding, etc makes the signal more reliable too.)  In general, I've rarely (if ever) had trouble with CF data but I've had several problems with SD data or images being corrupted, if only slightly.

CF is usually faster overall than most comparable SD cards regardless of the written specs.

CF is easier to handle, manipulate, write on, etc.

I totally understand the argument for SD.  SD has a lot of benefits and it is an extremely versatile format.  I'm not trying to slam SD, I just want to show my support and preference for CF.

I also understand some folks' problem with the CF pin design.  That is a weakness of CF but I have to admit I've never seen a problem myself.

It will be interesting to see what format(s) emerge/survive over the next 2-3 years.

Personally, I haven't had a problem buying CF cards yet but I can see where it might be possible for CF to be hard to find in some areas based on market demand.

Rusty

129
How do you transfer images?  With a card reader, you generally see the folder architecture, so you'd see the '101' folder. 

Personally, I have extra cards - the card with the images doesn't get formatted until the set is at least triaged (so I know it's complete) and stored on the internal SSD and at least one external HDD.

Ditto here, I have a similar workflow.

And you can easily recover the images even after the in camera format with some recovery software.

130
Photography Technique / Re: Help, I've lost my mojo!
« on: June 08, 2014, 04:56:53 PM »
Ditto.  I'm sorta going through the same thing.  After several years, I'm grabbing the camera a bit less.  I can relate and I agree with what others are saying.  Embrace it.  Take a break, slow down or try other types of photography.  Find other inspiration, etc.  Some folks are motivated by more/different/new equipment.  Some by seeing their own or others' work.

Whatever the case, don't assume all is lost.  You're just getting a little bored or burned out.  I think things will be fine down the road.

Rusty

131
Software & Accessories / Re: Need help finding a backpack
« on: June 06, 2014, 08:27:45 PM »
Keep it simple and inexpensive.  Get a basic daypack.  Get some individual lens cases from LowePro and put it all in the daypack loose.  Add whatever else you need to carry like batteries etc and put them in the smaller pockets.  I carry my DSLR on a strap 99% of the time so it never goes in the daypack anyway.  Put a water bottle in one side pocket and whatever else you need access to quickly in the other side pocket.

The daypack looks a lot less conspicuous and is multi-purpose.  You aren't locked into an expensive black photo bag with dividers built for lenses, etc and nothing else that screams PHOTO GEAR!!! to everyone that sees it.

132
Lenses / Re: What was your first L lens?
« on: June 06, 2014, 08:19:43 PM »
1. 24-105 IS
2. 16-35 f/2.8 v1
3. 70-200 f/4 IS
4. 24-70 f/2.8 v1
5. 35 f/1.4

I'm not going any further.  Those were the first couple years.  Suffice to say I have about 4 more (new) that cost as much as all those cost me combined (used).  I try to buy most of my stuff used but the newer stuff isn't enough of a discount to make it worth it.

133
I'd go with something like this

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Wonderful-AD-050C-Glass-Door-Dry-Cabinet-Camera-Lens-Electronic-Dehumidify-50L/321320638883?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222006%26algo%3DSIC.FITP%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140107090050%26meid%3D7323742868183444362%26pid%3D100011%26prg%3D20140107090050%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D10%26sd%3D221243809355


Wow!  That thing is pretty neat!  Too bad it's so small.

It does bring up a good point however, humidity.  Once you put anything into a sealed or semi-sealed container, you need to make sure humidity doesn't form.  They have desiccant packs you can install or humidity rods that are electric.  In general, the primary way to prevent humidity is to maintain a slightly higher temp inside the given container than the outside air.

Rusty

134
Thank you for sending me the dimensions – it's very helpful. I'm thinking you could get a pre-finished, ready to install base kitchen cabinet about 36 inches wide, some sort of countertop for it, and a matching wall unit to install above the base cabinet. If you can, get one that runs to the ceiling as it gives you extra storage. This combination would give you a lot of storage and allow you to have a working surface across the base cabinet to set your camera bag on when you're loading it. Depending on how much money you want to spend, you could either get the base cabinet with just shelves or with pullout shelves. I have full extension pullout shelves in my kitchen and I think they are really worth the extra money. Home Depot and Lowe's would have such things. IKEA might have them too. You could also get but tall pantry unit but they are generally narrower and you wouldn't have a work surface. Hope this helps.


I was thinking the exact same thing.  And you can special order larger/deeper ones if you like.  Perhaps upgrade the drawer slides to ball bearing (like the better tool chests) for better weight support and smoother operation.

Another thing to consider would be a large safe.  MUCH more expensive but it would mean everything is protected from fire and theft.  And a safe is multi-purpose for security.  You could still do the drawers inside part of the safe if you like.

I purchased one from STURDY SAFE.  I got a mid-size model with fire proofing.  I use it for all kinds of stuff - guns, important documents, some precious metal/coins, silverware and some camera equipment.  I also had them drill a 3/8" hole in the lower side that matches up with a wire box in the wall where I ran power and ethernet network cable inside so I could have a light and a fire protected network backup drive inside.  http://www.sturdysafe.com/

Rusty

135
Technical Support / Re: Fix for a large CP Filter Stuck on Lens
« on: June 01, 2014, 11:36:10 AM »
All of these are great ideas, I keep a wide rubber band around my filter case for this reason.  My B+W CPL is notorious for getting stuck really good.  You could also try warming it up a bit in the hot sun or whatever safe method can raise the temp of the filter enough to slightly enlarge it and cause it to loosen up a bit.

I would stay away from duct tape however.  The only tape I will put on my equipment is high quality gaffer tape.  That won't leave any residue and sticks very well.

Boy, that's what I thought Rusty! That duct tape goo would be almost impossible to get off!

I was thinking of that blue tape that has a mild adhesive and can pull off a wall without hurting the paint? You know what I'm talking about... Although I think a wide, large rubber band is a pretty slick idea!  8)

Thanks Old Shooter!  I'm familiar with the Blue and the Green painters tape and while I use them often and love them, I think it's too slick itself and it doesn't stick too well compared to the gaffer tape.  Painters tape adhesive is designed to come off easily sort of like a post-it.  Gaffer tape uses a butyl rubber type adhesive that is pretty tacky and slip resistant but still comes off well and the tape itself is rubbery so it offers some grip.

Warning:  And I used to love painters tape even more several years ago and used it on so many things.  Unfortunately, I discovered that the adhesive eventually breaks down and becomes a yucky goo that is disgusting if it is left on something too long, esp if it gets warm like in an attic or a car.  Yuck!  I was very disappointed so I am a bit more careful how I use it if it will stay on something long term.

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