September 16, 2014, 10:04:35 PM

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Messages - RustyTheGeek

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16
I shoot in the annual 30K range at various events, campouts, swim meets, etc.  Shooting swimming eats a lot of frames.  I usually shoot several different bodies depending on the subject or activity.

For example, my 60D had about 26K frames on it in June 2011.  I've probably got at least that many, probably more on the 5D3 as well.  I've tried to slow down the frames a bit but in general, I just shoot what I feel is necessary at the time.  Then I process them, upload them, move on.  Cameras are just tools and the more you do, the more you use them.  That's why I have them.  Not using them fully would simply be a waste.

It is refreshing however to shoot only a hundred or so frames at smaller activities!

17
Hmm.  I used to work harder with using a gray card and/or other device to peg a custom WB at the venue.  Hmm.  Maybe I'll start doing that again.  It's not that hard, I just got out of the habit.  (You know, LAZY!)

The gray card doesn't solve everything though.  If you introduce flash or other light of your own, a gray card won't help you when the WB is off too much from the ambient light color.  I get this a lot in swim venues and other gyms.  The mercury vapor lights above are bright and directional enough to show up in all the pictures but if any other light is present like strong daylight from windows, fill flash or whatever, the people end up with green or yellow caps and capes.  It's pretty hard to avoid if the people are located below one of those light sources.   :(

I have used an Expodisc alternative before.  But you could make a pretty good DIY Expodisc with a white coffee filter!
https://www.flickr.com/groups/diyphotographynet/discuss/72157603931692288/

18
I feel taking too many shots affects my composition and overall quality. I get fewer keepers when shooting more, than when I think twice before taking a shot.
I am sure it depends on the person involved.

I would tend to agree but only to a point.  I shoot more than some, less than others.  My bigger concern, esp with flash, is the distraction I cause the event itself with flash or shutter noise.  But when I restrict myself too much, I find I miss good shots.  It's a balancing act for sure!

19
Which is why I still use my 28 f/1.8 prime quite a bit for campfire shots, etc.  In your case, maybe that 40mm f/2.8 pancake will suffice.  (Didn't I see that in your list?)

I have some quicker primes, like a 50/1.4 and the 100L macro, but I'm leery to sign up for a fixed FL in such a dynamic environment. 

- A

I understand your point.  I totally agree.  Keep in mind however that a wider prime like my fast 28mm will capture a lot and I can always crop a bit.  (Plus, I can human zoom IN.  It's harder to human zoom OUT esp in tight spaces.)

20
Something else to consider that is NON-Photography related.

NO ONE-ON-ONE WITH KIDS.  In other words, never be alone with a kid.  Always have another adult(s) or a group of other kids around you or within eye-sight.

This is a core standard YPT (Youth Protection Training) rule that protects both the adult and the child.

It would be a good idea to watch this YPT training video.  It explains good standard practices no matter where you are.  School, church, scouts, public places, etc.
http://www.scouting.org/Training/youthprotection.aspx

21
Another approach indoors where it's dark might be to use Tv and let your images go a bit dark if necc to preserve focus.  (Then bump back up in post.)  Dial in Tv of 1/30 - 1/50 or so depending on your skill level in low light and your ability to hold the camera still.  (Obviously you will need to shoot multiple shots to try and get a keeper.)  With your lens having a f/4 limit, your camera will be struggling to get the exposure and might be dipping pretty low on shutter speed in Av mode.  You might even have to (shudder!) go to 6400!   :o

Regardless, focus can't be fixed.  Everything else can be improved a certain amount.  Shooting in the dark is always a challenge.  Which is why I still use my 28 f/1.8 prime quite a bit for campfire shots, etc.  In your case, maybe that 40mm f/2.8 pancake will suffice.  (Didn't I see that in your list?)

22
Great to hear ahsanford!  I'm glad you are considering options while staying relaxed.  Go look at my site and you'll see that I end up shooting a LOT of kids.  (Boys scouts, school stuff, etc.)  And I'm often in cramped quarters and strange light so my 16-35 gets a lot of use and every once in a while I bring out the Fish-Eye when I think about it.

Also, FYI, I use the heck out of my SunPak RD2000 with a Sto-Fen diffuser.  It stays on my camera and I use it 90% of the time.  I have 3 of them and one is gelled with diffuser, one is plain with diffuser and one is plain without diffuser (mostly for outdoor sun).  It works great on the 5D3 & 70D but the ETTL doesn't work on the 6D.  http://www.amazon.com/SUNPAK-RD2000C-Sunpak-Camera-Flash/dp/B001GS6Q9Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409941442&sr=8-1&keywords=rd2000  (See my review by RL)

http://rustythegeek.zenfolio.com/nasa2012#h6cdc731 (Inside the Mission Control simulators, etc with FishEye)
http://rustythegeek.zenfolio.com/galveston2012 (Inside the ship with FishEye)
http://rustythegeek.zenfolio.com/alliance-hires#h3e272ad2 (Inside the Control Tower with FishEye)

Just remember - get insurance shots from time to time and then have fun the rest of the time.  Experiment.  Go outside your comfort zone.  You only need one really cool edgy shot to work and that might even be after a lot of tweaking in post!

Use this event as an excuse to buy (or rent) the 15mm Fish-Eye!  You'll have a BLAST with it!   :D

23
I shoot enough events that I feel like I can offer some decent advice.  All the advice given is good and solid... and my head is spinning after reading it.

My BEST ADVICE ->  K.I.S.S. Principle  <- My BEST ADVICE  (Read distant.star's advice again.  Relax and enjoy!)   :)

I don't care how much you shoot, how many events or whatever, every photographer who gives a hoot will over think these things because they want to do a great job.

There are many ways that this can be done with many cameras and lens scenarios.  In general, you have good equipment and a LOT can be fixed in Post so don't kill yourself.  Take your time, relax and try different things.  Watch your LCD as you shoot and adapt as you go.  Don't take too much stuff.  And ditch the CPL.

So here's MY two scenarios...  ::)

Simple - Take the 5D3, 24-70 and Flash.  Shoot RAW.  Set your WB to daylight and leave it there or use the gray card and set it custom but once it's set, don't change it.  Corrections in Post will be much easier starting from the same place every image.  Set ISO 3200 indoors and 400 outdoors.  Create custom camera settings for indoor and outdoor to save time.  Set for Av Priority f/4 (lowest you can go) with Flash ETTL AUTO indoors.  Outdoors, depending on light levels, shade, etc you might need to go with center point metering.  I wouldn't worry about HSS, you won't have time.  It would probably be better to use a smaller aperture anyway to help control all the background light and have more of the scene in focus.  Point flash with Sto-Fen up 45 degrees indoors, 90 degrees forward outdoors and dial in EC on the fly like wickedwombat suggests.  (This is pretty much what I do most of the time.)  I wouldn't take the 70-200 unless you are planning to get a lot of face only shots, or maybe just noses and eyes.  Heck, I would have my 16-35 L lens hanging on my belt because I would find it much more useful indoors where I'm cramped and trying to get the event in the frame.  And you might shoot a bit with no flash so the aquarium will be pretty, or with the flash dialed back quite a bit so as not to overpower or reflect heavily off the glass.

Another indoor flash idea, gel the flash to match the aquarium light color.  Some kind of blue or green perhaps?

More Work and Versatility - Take the T2i with the 24-70 for reach and put the 16-35 on the 5D3.  Put the flash on the T2i.  Use the 5D3 wide with available light indoors and out for group, event, story shots, etc.  Use the T2i for candids, etc and light the faces better with the flash.

Another lens I would take for some fun shots would be... drum roll... the EF 15mm f/2.8 FishEye!  Inside with the aquarium, letting the kids get really close and capturing them near the tanks, no flash.  I think that would be really neat!  Also, held up high it would give some great story shots.

Seriously, relax and enjoy this.  To reduce the worry, go to the venue early and experiment for an hour or two.  Make sure it's about the same time of day!

Keep us posted on how this goes and what you ended doing.  Sharing a few pictures would be nice too!

24
Photography Technique / Re: Ai Servo Advice for 5D3 and Air Racing
« on: September 04, 2014, 11:22:03 PM »
You must live in the DFW area.   :D

25
Pricewatch Deals / Re: Deal: EOS M w/22mm f/2 STM $249
« on: September 01, 2014, 09:02:45 AM »
The dealbreaker for me about the SL1 is the lack of AFMA.  To take advantange of fast glass, it needs AFMA.  Sure, you can use slower lenses, but then it's not much over the EF-M's 18-55...

Really?  AFMA missing is a deal breaker?  How did you survive before mid 2007 or 2008 when Canon first started offering AFMA?  I think when one is shooting an SL1, while it's always nice to have, AFMA is not the primary purpose of the camera.  Same could be said for the EOS M.  Personally, I think AFMA should be standard on any removable lens camera but it's not a deal breaker on an entry level lightweight Rebel body.

For fast lenses, it is.  I had a 20D and a 17-55 f/2.8 back then, and I didn't know how good the lens was until I used it on a 7D and used AFMA.  Then I got a 35L, and it was even more crucial to have AFMA.  So yes, a lot of my shots with the 20D are slightly OOF.  I thought it was the quality of the lens and camera combination.  Even without AFMA, it was better than the kits lens, but it was not anything as when it actually got it right.  I learned to to take multiple shots hoping to get one whose error was "right on."

And no, the same can't be said of the EOS-M.  No mirror, no PDAF, no AFMA issue.  And if you're using slower, more compact lenses on the SL1, then the EF-M 18-55 compares well.  I got the EOS-M to replace the P&S, and it has done that job well.  The 11-22/22/18-55 + M body is compact system.  I use the 5DIII much more often, but when DSLRS aren't allowed, I grab the M.

Gotcha.  I purchased the M mostly out of curiosity because of the cheap price now.  The fact that it doesn't have an onboard flash makes it weak in some indoor compact situations.  And I'll definitely miss a viewfinder.  I'll have to wait and see until I get it, update the firmware and shoot with it a bit.  The SL1 will stay in my arsenal for years for a multitude of uses.  The M will likely be a flash in the pan for the reasons I've already read about.  But who knows since some on CR like theirs, it seemed short sighted to blow it off when I could get it for $249.  I have small flashes already and I just ordered a EF adapter for $63 so I guess I'm ready to go except for an extra battery.  Any advice I should be aware of?  Thanks.

26
Portrait / Re: Feedback on these headshots
« on: August 31, 2014, 11:19:34 PM »
I'd dial the highlights back a bit, but that's personal preference.  They look pretty solid to me.

Jim

Ditto.  Seems like I pull the highlights back on most of my shots with faces to gain back skin tone in shots like those.  Some people have more reflection on their skin surface than others.  Other than reducing exposure there's not much else to do but reduce highlights.  At least not in Lightroom.  (But I'm not exactly an expert on post production.)

27
Pricewatch Deals / Re: Deal: EOS M w/22mm f/2 STM $249
« on: August 31, 2014, 11:04:08 PM »
The dealbreaker for me about the SL1 is the lack of AFMA.  To take advantange of fast glass, it needs AFMA.  Sure, you can use slower lenses, but then it's not much over the EF-M's 18-55...

Really?  AFMA missing is a deal breaker?  How did you survive before mid 2007 or 2008 when Canon first started offering AFMA?  I think when one is shooting an SL1, while it's always nice to have, AFMA is not the primary purpose of the camera.  Same could be said for the EOS M.  Personally, I think AFMA should be standard on any removable lens camera but it's not a deal breaker on an entry level lightweight Rebel body.

28
EOS Bodies / Re: Are you planning to purchase a 7D2
« on: August 31, 2014, 10:53:51 PM »
My point is that from a real world use POV, there are more merits to having a crop camera than the mathematical and IQ aspects of crop format vs FF.  Bottom line, they are both excellent for getting a good image.  They both have their respective strengths and then there is overlap benefit between the two.  IMHO, depending on the shooting scenario it can be ideal to have both at your disposal.  If you can only have one or the other, that's a different situation.  Heck, at that point get the 1DX and don't look back.  But I'll take having two cameras over one most of the time and in that case, having a crop and a FF with different lenses to utilize the strengths of each camera can be very helpful.  Just sayin'... ('ya know, to irritate those who hate the phrase, "Just sayin'!  LOL!)

29
EOS Bodies / Re: Are you planning to purchase a 7D2
« on: August 31, 2014, 09:08:55 PM »
I'm kinda in the "once you go full frame you don't go back" camp. The main reason would be the extra reach, which I'm reading here is over-rated. More like 1.2 not 1.6. So, that makes it a very expensive teleconvertor. I've already got the ff lenses. So, not sure what the advantage would be over a 6D. If I wanted a second (great) body (have 6D and T5i and 2 EOS M) would be more tempted to buy another 6D, one for longer zoom, the other for wide zoom at athletic events.

I agree with the conventional wisdom offered here that has been born of the crop vs FF debates.  (In essence, what you have stated above about real world 1.2 reach, etc.)  However, there is more to it than that.  In real world use, a new technology sensor in a new crop sensor camera gives me...

-  Faster fps (10 for the 7D2, 8 for the 7D and 7 for the 70D.)
-  1.6 (1.2?) crop factor reach advantage without a TC in the way
-  2nd body & lens (not a TC on a single FF)

A TC still costs you a stop of light and a loss of IQ compared to a crop sensor with no TC in the light path.  Having both a FF and a crop camera hanging by your side with two different lenses at a sporting event has its merits.  And if you are shooting sports, you are shooting a lot of frames of fast moving action.  You need fps.  And you need reach.  Trying to crop FF images later in post is a LOT of work when you are looking at several thousand images over a day or two of action.

That's why I bought a 70D a week ago for $836 from Canon Refurb.  It's likely going to give me at least 2/3 of (what I need) the 7D2 will give for possibly 1/3 the cost.  It's likely got a similar (if not the same) sensor and 7 fps is fast enough for my needs.  I'll know for sure after swim season starts.   :)

30
Pricewatch Deals / Re: A Very Small Niche
« on: August 31, 2014, 11:11:19 AM »
I like the concept of the EOS-M, but I just can't justify buying one.  It would have to fit into a very narrow gap between my S100 and my T2i. 

If I want a pocket camera, the S100 works very well and has a nice zoom range.  If I want to carry a small camera bag with an extra lens or two, then the T2i works great.   

If I didn't own these two travel cameras, maybe the M would make sense for me.
Agreed.  I had the S100 and t2i combo for a while.  After I replaced the t2i with the 6D the M made more sense as my APS body and pocket camera.  The M is a bit more flexible and gets used quite a lot.  I hadn't used the S100 since I got the M so I gave it to my wife.

I totally agree.  I have a S95, SL1 and various other decent P&S cams.  I just purchased the $249 EOS-M because CanonRumors made me!   :D It's all their fault!

Now I have to play with it and buy more crap to go with it, like the EF-M adapter.  You know, if neuro didn't have one, I would probably pass on it.  I'll blame him too.  LOL!   ;)

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