August 30, 2014, 12:28:15 PM

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - RustyTheGeek

Pages: 1 ... 10 11 [12] 13 14 ... 58
166
Photography Technique / Re: Help, I've lost my mojo!
« on: June 08, 2014, 04:56:53 PM »
Ditto.  I'm sorta going through the same thing.  After several years, I'm grabbing the camera a bit less.  I can relate and I agree with what others are saying.  Embrace it.  Take a break, slow down or try other types of photography.  Find other inspiration, etc.  Some folks are motivated by more/different/new equipment.  Some by seeing their own or others' work.

Whatever the case, don't assume all is lost.  You're just getting a little bored or burned out.  I think things will be fine down the road.

Rusty

167
Software & Accessories / Re: Need help finding a backpack
« on: June 06, 2014, 08:27:45 PM »
Keep it simple and inexpensive.  Get a basic daypack.  Get some individual lens cases from LowePro and put it all in the daypack loose.  Add whatever else you need to carry like batteries etc and put them in the smaller pockets.  I carry my DSLR on a strap 99% of the time so it never goes in the daypack anyway.  Put a water bottle in one side pocket and whatever else you need access to quickly in the other side pocket.

The daypack looks a lot less conspicuous and is multi-purpose.  You aren't locked into an expensive black photo bag with dividers built for lenses, etc and nothing else that screams PHOTO GEAR!!! to everyone that sees it.

168
Lenses / Re: What was your first L lens?
« on: June 06, 2014, 08:19:43 PM »
1. 24-105 IS
2. 16-35 f/2.8 v1
3. 70-200 f/4 IS
4. 24-70 f/2.8 v1
5. 35 f/1.4

I'm not going any further.  Those were the first couple years.  Suffice to say I have about 4 more (new) that cost as much as all those cost me combined (used).  I try to buy most of my stuff used but the newer stuff isn't enough of a discount to make it worth it.

169
I'd go with something like this

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Wonderful-AD-050C-Glass-Door-Dry-Cabinet-Camera-Lens-Electronic-Dehumidify-50L/321320638883?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222006%26algo%3DSIC.FITP%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140107090050%26meid%3D7323742868183444362%26pid%3D100011%26prg%3D20140107090050%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D10%26sd%3D221243809355

Wow!  That thing is pretty neat!  Too bad it's so small.

It does bring up a good point however, humidity.  Once you put anything into a sealed or semi-sealed container, you need to make sure humidity doesn't form.  They have desiccant packs you can install or humidity rods that are electric.  In general, the primary way to prevent humidity is to maintain a slightly higher temp inside the given container than the outside air.

Rusty

170
Thank you for sending me the dimensions – it's very helpful. I'm thinking you could get a pre-finished, ready to install base kitchen cabinet about 36 inches wide, some sort of countertop for it, and a matching wall unit to install above the base cabinet. If you can, get one that runs to the ceiling as it gives you extra storage. This combination would give you a lot of storage and allow you to have a working surface across the base cabinet to set your camera bag on when you're loading it. Depending on how much money you want to spend, you could either get the base cabinet with just shelves or with pullout shelves. I have full extension pullout shelves in my kitchen and I think they are really worth the extra money. Home Depot and Lowe's would have such things. IKEA might have them too. You could also get but tall pantry unit but they are generally narrower and you wouldn't have a work surface. Hope this helps.

I was thinking the exact same thing.  And you can special order larger/deeper ones if you like.  Perhaps upgrade the drawer slides to ball bearing (like the better tool chests) for better weight support and smoother operation.

Another thing to consider would be a large safe.  MUCH more expensive but it would mean everything is protected from fire and theft.  And a safe is multi-purpose for security.  You could still do the drawers inside part of the safe if you like.

I purchased one from STURDY SAFE.  I got a mid-size model with fire proofing.  I use it for all kinds of stuff - guns, important documents, some precious metal/coins, silverware and some camera equipment.  I also had them drill a 3/8" hole in the lower side that matches up with a wire box in the wall where I ran power and ethernet network cable inside so I could have a light and a fire protected network backup drive inside.  http://www.sturdysafe.com/

Rusty

171
Technical Support / Re: Fix for a large CP Filter Stuck on Lens
« on: June 01, 2014, 11:36:10 AM »
All of these are great ideas, I keep a wide rubber band around my filter case for this reason.  My B+W CPL is notorious for getting stuck really good.  You could also try warming it up a bit in the hot sun or whatever safe method can raise the temp of the filter enough to slightly enlarge it and cause it to loosen up a bit.

I would stay away from duct tape however.  The only tape I will put on my equipment is high quality gaffer tape.  That won't leave any residue and sticks very well.

Boy, that's what I thought Rusty! That duct tape goo would be almost impossible to get off!

I was thinking of that blue tape that has a mild adhesive and can pull off a wall without hurting the paint? You know what I'm talking about... Although I think a wide, large rubber band is a pretty slick idea!  8)

Thanks Old Shooter!  I'm familiar with the Blue and the Green painters tape and while I use them often and love them, I think it's too slick itself and it doesn't stick too well compared to the gaffer tape.  Painters tape adhesive is designed to come off easily sort of like a post-it.  Gaffer tape uses a butyl rubber type adhesive that is pretty tacky and slip resistant but still comes off well and the tape itself is rubbery so it offers some grip.

Warning:  And I used to love painters tape even more several years ago and used it on so many things.  Unfortunately, I discovered that the adhesive eventually breaks down and becomes a yucky goo that is disgusting if it is left on something too long, esp if it gets warm like in an attic or a car.  Yuck!  I was very disappointed so I am a bit more careful how I use it if it will stay on something long term.

172
Technical Support / Re: Fix for a large CP Filter Stuck on Lens
« on: May 31, 2014, 02:10:21 PM »
All of these are great ideas, I keep a wide rubber band around my filter case for this reason.  My B+W CPL is notorious for getting stuck really good.  You could also try warming it up a bit in the hot sun or whatever safe method can raise the temp of the filter enough to slightly enlarge it and cause it to loosen up a bit.

I would stay away from duct tape however.  The only tape I will put on my equipment is high quality gaffer tape.  That won't leave any residue and sticks very well.

173
I started another reply and ditched it.  There is just too much to discuss about radio technology to go there.  I would wait on replacing a 6 year old microwave for this reason alone.  Instead, consider getting an ASUS Black Knight router such as this...

http://www.amazon.com/RT-AC66U-Dual-Band-Wireless-AC1750-Gigabit-Router/dp/B008ABOJKS/ref=dp_ob_title_ce

Then, go here and install a slightly improved (more features, more stablilty) firmware.  Note that you can dig into the settings and set the power to max, 200 mW.
http://www.lostrealm.ca/tower/node/79

See how that works first but if you are still having trouble, I suggest that you invest in some better antennas, some extension cables for said antennas and move the antennas some distance apart, changing their orientation to give different emission patterns.
http://www.amazon.com/Super-Power-Supply%C2%AE-WZR-HP-G450H-TL-WR1043ND/dp/B00DMJI9TA/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1401557988&sr=1-3&keywords=wifi+antennas
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BXBIXIQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2S19KAYIQOOLR
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0085X3PRE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2H3QE25AGJEMY

And another thing to try would be to move the router to a more central location where things like microwaves and baby monitors are not between the transmission endpoints.  Try using a powerline ethernet bridge to create a semi-wired connection to another part of the house from your Internet modem device to the WiFi Router using power outlets and house wiring.
http://www.amazon.com/ZyXEL-HomePlug-Powerline-Wall-Plug-Adapter/dp/B003ULOZ5W/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1401558205&sr=1-1&keywords=powerline+ethernet+bridge

Don't forget that there are two sides to the connection.  If you are trying to get an old, weak wifi card in an ancient laptop to perform better, you may still have issues.  Suffice to say that you need to see how a variety of devices work before you automatically assume it's the router's fault.  Site analysis is very tedious sometimes.  Heck, for all you know it could be something at your neighbor's house that is killing your WiFi.  Or you live near an airport or cell tower.  Or you have weird wiring in your house.  The possibilities are endless.  What happens if you try the same WiFi Router at another house or office with the same device?  Does it work better?  Have I battled this problem before?  Yes, many times.  Every site is different whether it's commercial or residential.  You have to have a disciplined test plan and think outside the box.

Another thing you can do is fire up your laptop, start a command line session (cmd.exe at the run or search line in the start menu) and then use pings to see how the signal affects throughput.  Either use "ping www.google.com -t" or "ping 192.168.1.1 -t" (or whatever your default gateway address is) to keep the pings going as you walk around.  Watch the time (in ms) to see how much latency is occurring.  Higher numbers mean more latency.  The lower the better.  As the radio signal deteriorates, the throughput is reduced to help protect the integrity.  Dropped packets are an indication of a dropped or intermittent signal.

Good luck!  Let us know how it goes!

174
No offense intended but this is one of those threads that I start to read, then I begin to skim and eventually I start to wish I had that 10 minutes of my life back.   ;)

Although I have to admit that what kept me reading as long as I did was seeing how far Neuro would be sucked in!  It's not often I see him post this much bantering!   :P

Regardless, it's all good guys!   :)

And FWIW, I am extremely glad Canon hasn't participated in the high megapixel race.  There are so many better things to improve first and I think that's what they are doing.

175
If your wife is getting more serious about wedding and portraiture photography then the 6D is the better choice.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but serious wedding and 6d/5d2 af system doesn't square. You can use it as a 2nd or backup body, but for anything mission-critical that moves this is not the camera you can rely upon. Think of the couple walking down the church alley, your af tracking fails and you have to say "Well, you know, I saved $1000, could you please repeat it?".

There are plenty of excellent wedding photographers using the 6D as their primary camera.  Dustin Abbott, who often posts here is one.  A local photographer, well regarded as the best in the town I live, uses a 6D as primary and 5D2 for his second shooter and doesn't have any AF issues with these bodies.

I'll be the first to admit the 6D's AF is not nearly as good as the 5D3 or 1Dx, but it's not bad either.  Unless you are shooting lots of sports or fast paced wildlife (BIF), the 6D's AF is probably good enough for most uses including weddings.

No offense but I own the 6D, 5D3 and 60D (not to mention many other Canon bodies) and I am fully confident in the 6D autofocus.  In fact, until a firmware update fixed the 5D3 low light AF issues, the 6D stomped it with low light AF.  Don't run away from the 6D because some folks think it has flaws compared to the 5D3.

As for the OP question about 'best all-around body', I also would tend to agree with candc, the 70D is likely the best all around for your needs.  Better video, speed for sports, etc.  A FF sensor (6D) will open up a whole world of creativity but you can still create great images with an APS-C camera and that's the format you are already accustomed to anyway.  Get a 6D ASAP later but get the 70D first and get busy making money to pay for other things.  Buy most of your lenses in EF type so you can use them on the FF camera in the future.

176
I'll comment partly from my own consumer experience and partly from my photographer POV...

-  In '95 we had a great husband+wife pro photography team do our wedding and they rocked!  And we have a nice hard page album that is a soft leather-like bound album.  It's great.  So I think the album is important and desirable if it's done well.

-  A lot of Brides are impressed by little details.

-  Today, it seems like it is so easy (and cost effective) to have a great album produced by a good service company that I can't imagine investing the amount of work that is required to build one from scratch from a photo printer.  My bigger concern is...

-  YOU are on the hook for supporting/fixing the album if anything goes wrong down the line, a picture fades, the binding fails, something comes apart, etc.

-  The recipient won't appreciate the work or the quality compared to an album that was outsourced.  Even worse, they think that a friend's outsourced album is better.

Dustin, I really like you, your work and your dedication to photography.  It is truly your passion.  While I'm not a professional, I have a hard time seeing the payback for you in doing albums yourself from scratch.  But it's your baby and only you can determine if an outsourced album will measure up.  The only way to know is to get some outsourced album samples done up with your photos and compare them to yours and see what you (and your clients) can live with.

Good luck!!  Please let us know what you decide and what albums you think are best.   :)

177
Normalnorm, you hit the nail on the head.  Wow, if only more photographers had the attitude that clients are uninformed dolts who just don't get what the artiste has done, competition would be much less of an issue!

Your last paragraph adds some particularly, ahem, penetrating insights.  But let's not get sucked into a session of limp puns.

Ditto.  Normalnorm called it the way I see it too.  All of my shooting is volunteer.  And I treat every shoot as a professional and I shoot most events like this in a journalistic style.  I shoot 90% safe, storytelling shots.  Lots of wide angle and lots of close ups.  I throw in a few artistic shots for fun, for myself and whoever might get excited about them.  But otherwise, I document the people and the culture of the event as it is.  I don't try to interpret the event with my camera, except for fun and to keep myself from getting too bored.

Don't take this too hard, learn from it and stay relaxed.  Have fun do like RLPhoto, lots of safe insurance shots and then some cool edgy shots sprinkled along the way for you to keep it interesting and just in case someone loves one of them.

178
Photography Technique / Re: So I really stepped into it....
« on: May 09, 2014, 12:01:48 AM »
Sounds like you are trying to achieve the impossible... get accepted into the "cool kids club" in Junior High.   8)

From what I've read here so far, you should just bow out gracefully and forget they ever existed.  They are legends in their own minds.  You stand to gain very little from that association and they don't appreciate your input anyway.   :)

Whenever I join something like this, I never want to be the smartest guy, in fact I want to be just a few steps above the dumbest guy.  That way I will be able to learn a lot from others.  In your case, you are so far ahead of the others that you'll never learn anything and they obviously don't want to learn from you.  So, no point in staying with that club, eh?

Oh, and thanks for sharing!!  It helps remind us of the pitfalls of some situations like this.   ::)

179
Photography Technique / Re: Thin dof posing/shooting advice
« on: May 08, 2014, 11:44:19 PM »
Not much to say that hasn't been said but I want to compliment you on the shots.  I think anyone here would be glad with these results.  You did a great job.  Tweak all you want but you are improving on a very good product already.

Right, that's what I wanted to hear, 4000+ posts on CR have finally paid off :-> ... thanks! Btw this is about the same feedback I'm getting from around here, that's why I currently dare to try to go pro with pet and animal photography.

As for the 6D AF system and whether a 5D3 would make a difference... rest easy.  That ain't it.  I think you know better than that.  The issues you are dealing with here can't even be much affected with manual focus.  It's definitely NOT the camera

That's very good to know as you know both cameras, it dampens my 5d3 inferiority complex a bit :-p ... the other day, I saw the boss of the homelesss peope street magazine project walk about with the editorial 1dx+24-70L2, I couldn't believe my eyes. He still takes terrible pictures and doesn't even use a single flash :->

The one thing might help just a bit that with the 1dx/5d3 af focus & recompose distance is a bit less than from the center 6d spot, but alas, the af points are rather crowded to the center on the big cameras so it really might not result in any noticeable difference.

Think about the cameras this way... if someone handed you a 30D or a 40D, would you still love shooting with one?  Could you still make great pictures with it?  Heck, would you almost be ready to go find/get another one?  I'm confident that my answer to these questions is YES, I loved both of those bodies and shot 1000's of great images with them.  Obviously my newer cameras are EASIER to shoot with because they have better sensors and the full frame gives me more creative latitude.

Bottom line, it's YOU that takes the picture.  And it sounds like you could shoot the same great shots with a 30D, 40D, 6D or whatever you have in your hand.   (Too bad the guy with the 1Dx can't say that, eh?)  My point here is, don't pine after the 5D3 or 1Dx too much.  I love the 6D, it's a great camera.  Don't sweat it.  Be glad you have the 6D, enjoy using it with confidence and without any remorse!   ;)

180
Photography Technique / Re: Thin dof posing/shooting advice
« on: May 08, 2014, 04:31:13 PM »
Sometimes going back to the basics helps.  Maybe whip out a tripod on a sunny day and get a "subject" to focus on with a detailed background some distance behind it.  Then do the good old exposure exercise where you maintain the same exposure but vary the aperture and shutter speeds and work your way through all the f/stops.  When you compare the shots, it might help jog your 'noggin on what will work for you.  You could also toss in some varying distances from the subject at each f/stop to see how that affects the DOF, compression and bokeh.


Pages: 1 ... 10 11 [12] 13 14 ... 58