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Messages - RustyTheGeek

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Lenses / Re: 70-300L AF IS goes *CLUNK!* (??)
« on: February 26, 2013, 05:50:43 PM »
FYI UPDATE - 70-300 IS L w/ Kenko 1.4X PRO 300 Teleconverter DGX

I got the new Kenko TC above.  IS seems to work great, no "CLUNK!:o when stabilizing using the Kenko TC.


EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: 6d w/ eos remote and tablet connection?
« on: February 26, 2013, 05:33:48 PM »
I've used my 6D with both the iPhone 4S and my Android Galaxy SIII and it worked fine.  I've been super busy but I'll try to get around to trying it with my wife's Nexus 10 soon.  I don't see why it wouldn't work fine.

One thing that is annoying with the way Canon did the 6D WiFi is when it goes to sleep, it resets the WiFi to OFF so you have to go through the connection process all over again.  The only way to avoid this is to disable the camera sleep timer.  I really wish they would have come up with a better way to do this.  Maybe something intelligent like power down the WiFi radio to 2% and only shut it off after a longer period and let the camera sleep separately.  You know, something elegant and functional like laptops have done for years.

Oh well...

EOS Bodies / Re: Canon 7D MKII USB 3.0 very important
« on: February 21, 2013, 09:25:57 AM »
OK, I'll bite... Here's my thoughts...

1.  All things like USB3, WiFi, Bluetooth, Gigabit Ethernet, GPS, WiMax, Integrated Broadband, etc are simple small chipsets that are fairly modular and easy to integrate into most designs given the effort is put forth in the firmware to write code to address them properly.  (Firewire, Thunderbolt etc from Apple are usually avoided due to the excessive patent fees they demand for inclusion.)  The design problems are usually issues with power, heat and RFI Interference.  The cost of the chipset could be a factor but I doubt it.  It's more the cost of everything else that revolves around adding the feature... circuit board design, testing, etc.  Add more stuff to the mix, more things can go wrong.

2.  Tethered Shooting has its place but IMO, Wireless Tethered Shooting is the future however it is implemented.  Same goes for network access.  And Flash Control.  Honestly, wires are a pain but unfortunately they are less expensive and more reliable if proper care is observed with the connections and strain relief is used.  Once wireless solutions evolve to the point where they are totally reliable, inexpensive and power efficient, no one will use a wire if they don't have to.

MY ideal DSLR would have fast WiFi, reliable integrated wireless flash and shutter control that is universal (not proprietary) and even maybe wireless charging.  Maybe bluetooth too?  Most of the roadblocks are power related IMO.  I am anticipating the day when the flash has a hot shoe on top for backwards compatibility but the camera easily communicates with the flash wirelessly (without a master flash) and I can simply grab the flash and move it around while shooting without extra devices (ie PocketWizard) attached to both or the need to have a master flash on the hot shoe just to talk to the wireless flash.  I was sort of expecting the 5DIII or 5DX to have this but unfortunately, all they did was add some RF to the new 600RT flash and charge a mint for it.  Big whoop.  Not much improvement there if you ask me.  The writing is on the wall for the need of true integrated wireless flash control.  Why doesn't Canon just do it right already??

EOS Bodies / Re: Canon EOS 7D Mark II Spec List [CR2]
« on: February 21, 2013, 08:57:18 AM »
EMI/RFI Shielding has little to do with permeability that is being discussed.  I worked in a lab a long time ago that used simple screen mesh (like on a screen door) for shielding an entire small room.  It was well GROUNDED.  And only a specific range of frequencies were being attenuated.  (You can only minimize the signal to a lower level, you don't actually block it entirely.)  You can even shield (attenuate or minimize) with a thin coating of special paint or foil tape.  It all depends on the frequency range and power levels in question.  Radio frequency engineering is a complex subject.  You see simple shielding all the time.  Inside your laptop or cell phone.  Inside your microwave oven door.  The grounded door mesh completes a simple Faraday Cage and along with the metal box, it shields you from the microwaves inside.  It works well because it is engineered for those specific frequencies and the fixed orientation of the radio wave emission.

Bottom Line is that if an EMI/RFI Engineer wants to use plastic instead of metal regardless of permeability, I'm not going to question the design because I want to assume they did a little testing and determined that to be the best solution.  Even if a metal enclosure passes the signal, the effective range will likely still be better with a non metal enclosure.

Lenses / Re: Exposure and focusing help with tilt/shift lenses
« on: February 18, 2013, 02:10:13 PM »
So my question:  Am I correct in assuming that if I were to rent a TS-E lens to shoot a basic building type shot, is the popular Canon 24 TS lens the one to go for?

Depends on if 24mm is wide enough. In urban settings, sometimes you cannot back up far enough...

But at least I can hopefully get the dog to move forward a few steps!   ;D

Software & Accessories / Re: new 13" MacBook Pro
« on: February 18, 2013, 01:29:35 PM »
For serious editing, I'd never use a laptop. too expensive, outdated too quickly, Run too hot, screens too small, too slow.

Desktops are far more powerful for less $$$ and could be built to any spec needed, upgraded, run cool, and can have large screens.

Ditto.  I see this question often about getting a mac on a budget.  It's like buying any luxury item cheap.  Please understand that the words "BUDGET" and "MACBOOK" don't exist in the same sentence.  If budget is a factor, you'll get a lot more value for your money with a desktop system, good display, extra RAM and an SSD drive running Windows 7 Pro x64.  Use Lightroom 4 and perhaps the Adobe Elements/Premier package.  Get the software with an Academic discount if you qualify.

As has been discussed here over and over, Macs are great if you have the funds but you will pull your hair out trying to get a mac on a budget.

Disclaimer:  This isn't a mac bashing statement.  It's just a fact.  Please don't let this start a Mac vs. PC flame war.  I'm merely stating my experience with regard to the OP's point that a "budget" is a factor.  Apple doesn't sell anything to people with a budget.  Except maybe Apple TV.  (Assuming you don't start buying content from them.)

Software & Accessories / Re: Gloves for Photography
« on: February 18, 2013, 01:15:29 PM »
WOW!  Great thread.  Since I do so much of my photography outdoors in all kinds of weather, this is a great read.  In my experience, the biggest challenge is achieving adequate warmth to the fingers but still being able to use the camera controls without much effort.  My solutions have evolved and change based on the situation, how cold and how long I'll be in the cold shooting.  It may have already been said but this is some of what I do....

-  Golf Gloves (For mild cool weather, low wind.  They are thin and light.)
-  Fingerless Wool (For cool to cold but not a long time.)
Seirus - HYPERLITEâ„¢ ALL WEATHERâ„¢ GLOVE  (Best solution so far.  Thin enough to wear under the wool fingerless if necc.)

The Seirus Hyperlite gloves I originally carried for hiking and trek pole use.  But they are thin enough to work the camera and still warmer than other alternatives due to the use of high tech materials.  They are designed for tactical gun use but also work great for holding trekking poles and cameras.  I used them this past weekend on a hiking trip for several hours shooting pictures in nighttime astronomy upper 30's temps, low to no wind.  Hands/fingers still got cold but only after an hour or more and very little exertion.  They aren't a perfect solution but so far, I haven't found a *perfect* thin glove solution.  (Where *perfect* means no long term finger/hand chill whatsoever.)  You still need to alternate the hands/fingers in and out of a warm pocket every so often to maintain comfort.

Keep in mind, even thick wind proof Snow Ski Gloves will eventually allow your fingers to get cold.  Mittens are the best way to keep warm but they are worthless for finger use.  So a warm pocket can usually help you keep fingers warm if you keep your gloved hands in pockets or under arms when not in use.

In general, look for the use of high tech synthetic moisture resistant materials like PolarTec, etc.  Stay away from cotton.  Wool is good but not thin enough.

What?  No replies?  I was rather thought it was fun and interesting.  Sensual and fanciful.  Maybe even a little erotic but not distasteful or inappropriate.  So I say great work and many compliments to the fearless and beautiful lady in the images.  It looks like she is very comfortable with her body and expressing confidence in the same.  The images are also an expression and appear to be well done, effective and consistent in their execution.  Love to hear more about the behind the scenes when you made them.  Is the lady a model, friend, girlfriend or spouse?  What was your or the ladies' inspiration?  How did you procure the location?  Any assistants?  Thank you for sharing!!

Reviews / Re: Why I Chose a Canon EOS 6D over a 5D MKIII
« on: February 08, 2013, 06:49:36 PM »
Nice shots, great review.  I can easily say I pretty much agree with everything you said.  I have both bodies currently but actually may sell the 5D3 soon depending on how the next firmware update addresses the low light AF issue with the 5D3.  The 6D is a great camera and is much more capable than the nay sayers claim.  You simply have to use one to decide.  You did.  And everyone who either owns or has used one has come away satisfied AFAIK.  Thanks for the great info!

Lenses / Re: Exposure and focusing help with tilt/shift lenses
« on: February 08, 2013, 03:42:53 PM »
While contemplating throwing an assist at a friend by photographing his business for marketing purposes, I thought I would see what info CR had to offer with regard to TS-E lenses.  Wow!  You guys are having way more fun with them than I was hoping for shooting a boring oil change place!

So my question:  Am I correct in assuming that if I were to rent a TS-E lens to shoot a basic building type shot, is the popular Canon 24 TS lens the one to go for?  Any other tips?  I know the basics but otherwise I've never shot with one and thought this would be a nice little learning adventure.  I figured I would test it out, shoot his business, shoot some friends, shoot the dog's butt, you know all the must have shots.  Thanks.

Software & Accessories / Re: Which iMac
« on: February 08, 2013, 09:43:22 AM »
The primary reason I owned a PowerMac a few years ago and consider buying a Mac Pro in the future is for video work.  Sounds like that is becoming less of an advantage.  Oh well!  This pretty much convinces me that a HackinTosh is the way to go so I can save money and use it completely the way I like with whatever OS I like.  I'm not attracted to aluminum that much anyway.

Lenses / Re: 70-300L AF IS goes *CLUNK!* (??)
« on: February 07, 2013, 07:15:27 PM »
it could be the 5D3 and the tamron
I know the Kenko 1.4 and the 5D3 are a bit wierd for example if i stack the kenko 1.4 on the canon 2x and the 70-200 f2.8 II then its fine on the 5Dmk2 but on the 5Dmk3 the aperture flicks wildly between f5.6 and f8
Well, FYI - no problems at all with the Tamron 1.4x I have on the 5D3 + 70-200/2.8IS-v1.

Lenses / Re: 70-300L AF IS goes *CLUNK!* (??)
« on: February 07, 2013, 06:23:05 PM »
Yeah.  I started this thread for two reasons...

-  Get opinions/reactions from others with regard to the anomaly
-  Inform others in case this truly is a possible hazard to the lens

I don't see how a TC could cause damage (or change the AF mechanism) but I guess you never know.  I'm glad to hear someone has used the Kenko successfully.  I'll consider obtaining that one perhaps after I see some more posts.

I've never had a problem with this TC before on any other lens I've used it with.

Lenses / 70-300L AF IS goes *CLUNK!* (??)
« on: February 07, 2013, 04:50:26 PM »
Some of you may remember my little poll a while back asking what to replace my 70-300 IS EF lens with after a barter trade with a buddy.  Well, I finally did the deal and I decided to get the 70-300L.  So now I have a nice Thinkpad X301 all tricked out (from the trade) and a new 70-300L.

What's interesting is this...

-  Slap that 70-300L on the 5D3 and point it all over the place, AF performance is fast and smooth, fairly quiet and nice.
-  Add a Tamron 1.4x TC (140F-CA) and the AF slows a bit.  Not unexpected.  Still works pretty good.  HOWEVER...

... when the TC is attached, the IS tends to JUMP from time to time and makes a CLUNK NOISE.  You can feel the clunk too.  It still autofocuses on the target but the IS going CLUNK is weird.  I haven't been able to detect a clunk or jump when the TC isn't connected.  Anyone have some thoughts?

I've had the Tamron TC for quite a while and from what I have read around this forum, the Kenko 1.4X DGX is (I guess) the ideal TC but I don't necc want to buy another TC.  Anyone have a Tamron 1.4X TC like mine and like it just as much?  Curious how they compare.

EOS Bodies / Re: on the verge of buying, just need some final moral support
« on: February 07, 2013, 01:39:53 PM »
Most of what I'm reading so far I agree with.  The 6D will do you fine.  I have both the 6D and the 5D3.  I honestly gravitate toward the 6D more often.  It's lighter, focuses better in indoor/low ambient light and is less complicated.  I do enjoy using the 5D3 but if the next firmware update doesn't improve the low light AF, I'll probably sell it.  The 5D3 dominates the 6D in fps speed in good light so if you are planning any sports shooting, it's the one to go with.  I don't shoot birds, etc but if that is part of your shooting, the 5D3 is the better choice.  IQ is about the same so don't worry about that.  At the moment it's pretty nice having both but since most of my shooting is ambient light journalistic style shooting, the 6D works better for me.

Either wait to see if the price drops more due to the Yen or go for it now and start getting satisfaction from your purchase.

I also strongly agree that you should get the 24-105 + 6D Kit.  It's a great deal.  You won't regret it, but you might regret later when you want the 24-105 for $200+ more price.  And you will, trust me.

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