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Messages - RustyTheGeek

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Lenses / Re: RLPhotos first impressions of the 16-35mm f/4L - Video
« on: July 14, 2014, 10:14:35 PM »
My last post to wrap up this thread. A final goodbye to the 17-40L for me and looking back at some of my favorite photos it captured before it's sold on evilbay.

Very cool little discussion that really makes me want to take some ND filters with me more often.  Thanks for the nice walk through some of your fun images and their back story.  This helps inspire me to try more stuff, even when I'm tired or not always in the mood while travelling!

Lenses / Re: RLPhotos first impressions of the 16-35mm f/4L - Video
« on: July 14, 2014, 10:03:24 PM »
I scanned/skimmed all the responses/comments on this thread about the new 16-35/F4 IS Lens.  Unfortunately, instead of discussing the lens, for the most part everyone just discussed RLPhoto's chosen video review method and more comments on each others' posts/personal views or asswholishness.

So to follow the flow of this thread, I guess I should comment on the comments... or wait, maybe not.  Who cares?  I read the CR Forum because it's NOT like most other threads that degenerate into petty comments about irrelevant things like whether RL should or should not have used video, if other posters are polite enough or whatever else.  Aww crap... I just commented on the comments.   ::)

RLPhoto - great job.  I viewed the videos from the perspective of joining you at your house for a beer while you share your new lens.  The videos came across that way with informed thoughts and information.  I can read written reviews in many places and it was nice to put a face/voice with a name after all this time.  Next time however, might I suggest at least 2 or 3 hot babes dancing while you do the video review.  That might distract anyone that would otherwise notice other problems with your video or methods.   :P

Question:  I assume that what you are shooting at F4 with IS allowing you to extend shutter time to almost a second in low light is a still subject, correct?  Because if the subject moves, IS is useless.  I know you are aware of this but didn't mention it in the video.  No big deal but some folks might forget that little fact.

I am impressed with the idea of using IR to expose hot spots of the lens.  Great!

Lenses / Re: Camera setup for dental clinic
« on: July 14, 2014, 09:16:50 PM »
I think I have a good EF 60mm Macro lens if you're interested.  I agree that live view + articulated screen would be a good setup.  I also have a 60D to go with the 60mm!   :)

IMHO, you could probably do fine with a 3rd party macro light, at least until you're sure that the equipment setup is working the way you expect.

Question:  How do you plan to get the image files transferred over to the computer/dental software?  Eye-Fi perhaps??

I'm an IT Guy and I've worked with a few dental offices.  Does your dental office software have a easy to use photo import feature to attach photos to the patients' record files?  Do you already have an iCat or other type of x-ray device that your dental software manages the image files from?

My thought is that the camera might be the easiest part.  The hard part is getting the photos imported and attached to the patient records correctly and easy enough that the entire staff can do it correctly every time.

Don't forget that whatever workflow you come up with should adhere to the HIPAA laws.  (Like the WiFi must be encrypted and ideally the SD cards never leave the camera to avoid loss/theft/confusion.)

Canon General / Re: CF CARDS
« on: June 17, 2014, 04:58:55 PM »
This is all good info.

I personally prefer CF because I've always found it to be more reliable and stable.  (More grounding, etc makes the signal more reliable too.)  In general, I've rarely (if ever) had trouble with CF data but I've had several problems with SD data or images being corrupted, if only slightly.

CF is usually faster overall than most comparable SD cards regardless of the written specs.

CF is easier to handle, manipulate, write on, etc.

I totally understand the argument for SD.  SD has a lot of benefits and it is an extremely versatile format.  I'm not trying to slam SD, I just want to show my support and preference for CF.

I also understand some folks' problem with the CF pin design.  That is a weakness of CF but I have to admit I've never seen a problem myself.

It will be interesting to see what format(s) emerge/survive over the next 2-3 years.

Personally, I haven't had a problem buying CF cards yet but I can see where it might be possible for CF to be hard to find in some areas based on market demand.


How do you transfer images?  With a card reader, you generally see the folder architecture, so you'd see the '101' folder. 

Personally, I have extra cards - the card with the images doesn't get formatted until the set is at least triaged (so I know it's complete) and stored on the internal SSD and at least one external HDD.

Ditto here, I have a similar workflow.

And you can easily recover the images even after the in camera format with some recovery software.

Photography Technique / Re: Help, I've lost my mojo!
« on: June 08, 2014, 04:56:53 PM »
Ditto.  I'm sorta going through the same thing.  After several years, I'm grabbing the camera a bit less.  I can relate and I agree with what others are saying.  Embrace it.  Take a break, slow down or try other types of photography.  Find other inspiration, etc.  Some folks are motivated by more/different/new equipment.  Some by seeing their own or others' work.

Whatever the case, don't assume all is lost.  You're just getting a little bored or burned out.  I think things will be fine down the road.


Software & Accessories / Re: Need help finding a backpack
« on: June 06, 2014, 08:27:45 PM »
Keep it simple and inexpensive.  Get a basic daypack.  Get some individual lens cases from LowePro and put it all in the daypack loose.  Add whatever else you need to carry like batteries etc and put them in the smaller pockets.  I carry my DSLR on a strap 99% of the time so it never goes in the daypack anyway.  Put a water bottle in one side pocket and whatever else you need access to quickly in the other side pocket.

The daypack looks a lot less conspicuous and is multi-purpose.  You aren't locked into an expensive black photo bag with dividers built for lenses, etc and nothing else that screams PHOTO GEAR!!! to everyone that sees it.

Lenses / Re: What was your first L lens?
« on: June 06, 2014, 08:19:43 PM »
1. 24-105 IS
2. 16-35 f/2.8 v1
3. 70-200 f/4 IS
4. 24-70 f/2.8 v1
5. 35 f/1.4

I'm not going any further.  Those were the first couple years.  Suffice to say I have about 4 more (new) that cost as much as all those cost me combined (used).  I try to buy most of my stuff used but the newer stuff isn't enough of a discount to make it worth it.

I'd go with something like this

Wow!  That thing is pretty neat!  Too bad it's so small.

It does bring up a good point however, humidity.  Once you put anything into a sealed or semi-sealed container, you need to make sure humidity doesn't form.  They have desiccant packs you can install or humidity rods that are electric.  In general, the primary way to prevent humidity is to maintain a slightly higher temp inside the given container than the outside air.


Thank you for sending me the dimensions – it's very helpful. I'm thinking you could get a pre-finished, ready to install base kitchen cabinet about 36 inches wide, some sort of countertop for it, and a matching wall unit to install above the base cabinet. If you can, get one that runs to the ceiling as it gives you extra storage. This combination would give you a lot of storage and allow you to have a working surface across the base cabinet to set your camera bag on when you're loading it. Depending on how much money you want to spend, you could either get the base cabinet with just shelves or with pullout shelves. I have full extension pullout shelves in my kitchen and I think they are really worth the extra money. Home Depot and Lowe's would have such things. IKEA might have them too. You could also get but tall pantry unit but they are generally narrower and you wouldn't have a work surface. Hope this helps.

I was thinking the exact same thing.  And you can special order larger/deeper ones if you like.  Perhaps upgrade the drawer slides to ball bearing (like the better tool chests) for better weight support and smoother operation.

Another thing to consider would be a large safe.  MUCH more expensive but it would mean everything is protected from fire and theft.  And a safe is multi-purpose for security.  You could still do the drawers inside part of the safe if you like.

I purchased one from STURDY SAFE.  I got a mid-size model with fire proofing.  I use it for all kinds of stuff - guns, important documents, some precious metal/coins, silverware and some camera equipment.  I also had them drill a 3/8" hole in the lower side that matches up with a wire box in the wall where I ran power and ethernet network cable inside so I could have a light and a fire protected network backup drive inside.


Technical Support / Re: Fix for a large CP Filter Stuck on Lens
« on: June 01, 2014, 11:36:10 AM »
All of these are great ideas, I keep a wide rubber band around my filter case for this reason.  My B+W CPL is notorious for getting stuck really good.  You could also try warming it up a bit in the hot sun or whatever safe method can raise the temp of the filter enough to slightly enlarge it and cause it to loosen up a bit.

I would stay away from duct tape however.  The only tape I will put on my equipment is high quality gaffer tape.  That won't leave any residue and sticks very well.

Boy, that's what I thought Rusty! That duct tape goo would be almost impossible to get off!

I was thinking of that blue tape that has a mild adhesive and can pull off a wall without hurting the paint? You know what I'm talking about... Although I think a wide, large rubber band is a pretty slick idea!  8)

Thanks Old Shooter!  I'm familiar with the Blue and the Green painters tape and while I use them often and love them, I think it's too slick itself and it doesn't stick too well compared to the gaffer tape.  Painters tape adhesive is designed to come off easily sort of like a post-it.  Gaffer tape uses a butyl rubber type adhesive that is pretty tacky and slip resistant but still comes off well and the tape itself is rubbery so it offers some grip.

Warning:  And I used to love painters tape even more several years ago and used it on so many things.  Unfortunately, I discovered that the adhesive eventually breaks down and becomes a yucky goo that is disgusting if it is left on something too long, esp if it gets warm like in an attic or a car.  Yuck!  I was very disappointed so I am a bit more careful how I use it if it will stay on something long term.

Technical Support / Re: Fix for a large CP Filter Stuck on Lens
« on: May 31, 2014, 02:10:21 PM »
All of these are great ideas, I keep a wide rubber band around my filter case for this reason.  My B+W CPL is notorious for getting stuck really good.  You could also try warming it up a bit in the hot sun or whatever safe method can raise the temp of the filter enough to slightly enlarge it and cause it to loosen up a bit.

I would stay away from duct tape however.  The only tape I will put on my equipment is high quality gaffer tape.  That won't leave any residue and sticks very well.

I started another reply and ditched it.  There is just too much to discuss about radio technology to go there.  I would wait on replacing a 6 year old microwave for this reason alone.  Instead, consider getting an ASUS Black Knight router such as this...

Then, go here and install a slightly improved (more features, more stablilty) firmware.  Note that you can dig into the settings and set the power to max, 200 mW.

See how that works first but if you are still having trouble, I suggest that you invest in some better antennas, some extension cables for said antennas and move the antennas some distance apart, changing their orientation to give different emission patterns.

And another thing to try would be to move the router to a more central location where things like microwaves and baby monitors are not between the transmission endpoints.  Try using a powerline ethernet bridge to create a semi-wired connection to another part of the house from your Internet modem device to the WiFi Router using power outlets and house wiring.

Don't forget that there are two sides to the connection.  If you are trying to get an old, weak wifi card in an ancient laptop to perform better, you may still have issues.  Suffice to say that you need to see how a variety of devices work before you automatically assume it's the router's fault.  Site analysis is very tedious sometimes.  Heck, for all you know it could be something at your neighbor's house that is killing your WiFi.  Or you live near an airport or cell tower.  Or you have weird wiring in your house.  The possibilities are endless.  What happens if you try the same WiFi Router at another house or office with the same device?  Does it work better?  Have I battled this problem before?  Yes, many times.  Every site is different whether it's commercial or residential.  You have to have a disciplined test plan and think outside the box.

Another thing you can do is fire up your laptop, start a command line session (cmd.exe at the run or search line in the start menu) and then use pings to see how the signal affects throughput.  Either use "ping -t" or "ping -t" (or whatever your default gateway address is) to keep the pings going as you walk around.  Watch the time (in ms) to see how much latency is occurring.  Higher numbers mean more latency.  The lower the better.  As the radio signal deteriorates, the throughput is reduced to help protect the integrity.  Dropped packets are an indication of a dropped or intermittent signal.

Good luck!  Let us know how it goes!

No offense intended but this is one of those threads that I start to read, then I begin to skim and eventually I start to wish I had that 10 minutes of my life back.   ;)

Although I have to admit that what kept me reading as long as I did was seeing how far Neuro would be sucked in!  It's not often I see him post this much bantering!   :P

Regardless, it's all good guys!   :)

And FWIW, I am extremely glad Canon hasn't participated in the high megapixel race.  There are so many better things to improve first and I think that's what they are doing.

If your wife is getting more serious about wedding and portraiture photography then the 6D is the better choice.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but serious wedding and 6d/5d2 af system doesn't square. You can use it as a 2nd or backup body, but for anything mission-critical that moves this is not the camera you can rely upon. Think of the couple walking down the church alley, your af tracking fails and you have to say "Well, you know, I saved $1000, could you please repeat it?".

There are plenty of excellent wedding photographers using the 6D as their primary camera.  Dustin Abbott, who often posts here is one.  A local photographer, well regarded as the best in the town I live, uses a 6D as primary and 5D2 for his second shooter and doesn't have any AF issues with these bodies.

I'll be the first to admit the 6D's AF is not nearly as good as the 5D3 or 1Dx, but it's not bad either.  Unless you are shooting lots of sports or fast paced wildlife (BIF), the 6D's AF is probably good enough for most uses including weddings.

No offense but I own the 6D, 5D3 and 60D (not to mention many other Canon bodies) and I am fully confident in the 6D autofocus.  In fact, until a firmware update fixed the 5D3 low light AF issues, the 6D stomped it with low light AF.  Don't run away from the 6D because some folks think it has flaws compared to the 5D3.

As for the OP question about 'best all-around body', I also would tend to agree with candc, the 70D is likely the best all around for your needs.  Better video, speed for sports, etc.  A FF sensor (6D) will open up a whole world of creativity but you can still create great images with an APS-C camera and that's the format you are already accustomed to anyway.  Get a 6D ASAP later but get the 70D first and get busy making money to pay for other things.  Buy most of your lenses in EF type so you can use them on the FF camera in the future.

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