January 25, 2015, 09:29:05 AM

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - killswitch

Pages: 1 ... 10 11 [12] 13 14 15
166
5D MK III Sample Images / Post Your Best Hi-ISO/Low Light 5DIII Shots!
« on: October 16, 2012, 01:19:51 AM »
I was trying to find samples of high-iso/low light shots taken with a 5DIII but they are all spread around the net, and I thought it'be useful for folks if they could find some great sample shots taken under low light conditions under one thread. If possible please post basic exif data (ISO, aperture value, and shutter speed) along with the photos. If the thread seems redundant I guess the moderators can close it if needed.

167
Lenses / Re: Canon 70-200 f2.8L IS (version 1) vs Sigma 70-200 f2.8 OS
« on: October 14, 2012, 01:32:59 PM »
I shot a wedding a couple a weeks ago with my Sigma 70-200mm OS for the first time and I had like 90% keepers. It really is a great lens. Yes, AFMA works and yes, TCs work. However, lens profile autocorrection within the 5D Mark III will not work, but you can still do that in Lightroom.

Cool, I was scouring the net to see what's the difference in sharpness. So far I found center sharpness is great, but the corners/edges tend to be soft. Have you felt this in your images, or are they just overstated. Personally for me as long as its not too obvious I guess its fine.

168
Lenses / Canon 70-200 f2.8L IS (version 1) vs Sigma 70-200 f2.8 OS
« on: October 13, 2012, 11:07:25 PM »
So there! Both have the Image Stabilization (Optical Stabilization or OS for Sigma). So the mark 1 version from Canon vs the Sigma's OS version. How is the sharpness and contrast from Sigma 70-200 f2.8 OS compared to the Canon 70-200 f2.8 IS version one. Is the difference in terms of sharpness and contrast huge or noticeable? AF performance of Sigma I hear is more or less on par with the Canon version, but please correct me if I am wrong. Also, can you AFMA Sigma or other 3rd part lenses on a 5DII/III ? Lastly, if I want to add focal length multiplier which teleconverters would be great for the Sigma glass on the bodies mentioned above. Kenko? Thanks.

169
If you're ready to pull the trigger on the body, might as well grab one of the deals - the difference between what they seem to be going for and the BH kit deal is about the full retail price of the 24-105 (the kits don't seem to be discounted quite as much yet). Put your 24-70 on the new body and get used to FF then see if you still want to add or switch lenses.

($2899 today: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Canon-EOS-5D-Mark-III-22-3-MP-Full-Frame-CMOS-Digital-SLR-Camera-Body-/300794215856?)

Thanks san, yeah I ended up pulling the trigger on the beachcamera 5dIII deal! Hope I made the right decision, excited and anxious to get my hands on that puppy!

170
Pricewatch Deals / Re: Deal: Canon EOS 5D Mark III Body for $2899
« on: October 13, 2012, 04:33:30 PM »
After passing Adorama's and BC's ebay deals I pulled the trigger and took B&H's kit. (oh I have to correct my signature :-) )

It seems that the sell isn't going as fast as in the last two deals.

Adorama 818 in some 8 hours, but @2749
Beach Camera 120 in 5 hours @2849
Beach Camera 16 in 2 hours @2899

It's hard to be smart, but I belive if people paid $3500 for it, it is definetly worth getting it for $2900 from an authorized dealer.

Will it be cheaper than $2700 at Christmas or Thanksgiving? I highy doubt it, but you never know.

I just pulled the trigger =O

171
Pricewatch Deals / Re: Deal: Canon EOS 5D Mark III Body for $2899
« on: October 13, 2012, 01:26:46 PM »
Damn, pull the trigger. Must pull the trigger! >_< Looks like the BnH kit and this are competing as the body comes down to roughly the same price. Think this is a good as it gets deal? Its like holiday season already! >_<

172
Ok, so this is extremely tempting. I have been meaning to upgrade for sometime but waiting for the right moment (in terms of price) to pull the trigger.

I have the following gears right now:
1) Canon 60D
2) Canon 24-70mm f2.8L (MK I)
3) Canon 50mm f1.8 II
4) Tokina 11-16mm f2.8

I shoot:

1) Landscape, Architecture 2) Portrait, Group Portraits 3) Still-life, 4) Often in low-light situations, often dont have control over lighting situation. 5) Any kind of interesting surface textures for use in 3D Modeling.

So one of the reason I bought 24-70 is the f2.8 aperture in the normal zoom range, since 60Ds ISO performance isn't something to write about. And I avoid going above 400 ISO. I hate the noise. Another reason is the shallow depth of field. Now if jump in on this BnH deal, I have 2 options

Keep 24-70 and sell 24-105 OR
Keep 24-105 and sell off the 24-70.

My question is if I keep, 24-105 I will lose the shallow depth of field that I get from f2.8. How significant is the loss in shallowness from f2.8 to f4. I can try taking shots in f2.8 and f4 with my 24-70 and see the approximate difference, but if any of you out there who had already faced similar situation may be able to shed some light and would be of great help. Also, is 24-105 comparatively sharper across the range? Let's say both lens are calibrated to work with the same body. I am guessing I will bump up the ISO higher if I end up getting the 5DIII to get acceptable shutter speed to freeze subject, plus IS helps.

So there, hope I made sense. Is it better to keep the 24-70 or 24-105 in terms of shallow dof, sharpness. Oh, in the future I know I will get the 70-200 so I am not thinking the reach as a factor that much (even though switching to FF).

OR just wait for another one of those 2700-2800 5DIII body only deal :S ? (bangs head against the wall)!

173
Great work. Somewhat off topic question though... Do you mount your Tokina 11-16 on your 5D3 at all? I have a tokina 11-16 and will be getting a 5D3 very soon and wanted to know if it was worth bringing in my camera bag or just keeping it in the car with my "emergency" crop body. Is the bower significantly sharper? I'm aware the tokina is usable at 14mm on up and I don't mind the vignette too much.

Thank you =)
I often prefer my bower 14mm over the tokina but I always keep it in my bag when I'm doing wide shots incase I don't want the curved edges of the bower. It is definitely a nice lens and vignette free at 16mm. The bower 14mm is better then the tokina at 14mm but if the tokina is the only super wide that you have then it is great on the 5D. Def. keep in you bag. Also the bower is not AF and the tokina is, so that is good for event situations when you need AF.

Stupid question, Bower and Samyang 14mm 2.8 are the same thing but under different brand names?

I am on the same boat as Chosenbydestiny. I have never seen any sample shots of Tokina 11-16 on a 5D, let alone on a 5DIII. Would be of great help if you have any real life shots using this setup, I was wondering just how bad the vignette is really. I dont mind the falloff that much as long as its not too crazy.

Update: Here is an example i found on flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/supermariano81/6853478324/#

174
Lenses / Re: Calibrate Canon 24-70L?
« on: October 11, 2012, 02:28:42 AM »
100% crop

175
Lenses / Re: Calibrate Canon 24-70L?
« on: October 11, 2012, 02:27:37 AM »
Ok, so here it is. I haven't gotten around shooting at a brick wall yet. But I think I will throw in more tests. This is what I did

1) mounted on a tripod, 70mm, set to AV priority, @5.6, ISO 100, AWB. Center focus point selected. Shot in a living room at night.

2) shot normally (2 sec timer, mirror lockup enabled) @ 5.6 aperture

3) live view (2 sec timer, AF Live) @ 5.6 aperture

If I did this right, then OMG. The shots from AF Live, is way sharper then normal Phase detect AF. I am including the full shot and a 100% crop of the top part of the book.

176
Lenses / Re: Calibrate Canon 24-70L?
« on: October 10, 2012, 10:52:15 PM »
Thanks guys, I will check out the test you fine folks suggested and will post back here!

177
Lenses / Calibrate Canon 24-70L?
« on: October 10, 2012, 09:08:14 AM »
I just wanted to know how I can calibrate the AF of my Canon 24-70L when mounted on a Canon 60D. Since there is no AFMA in the 60D does that mean my only resolution is to send it to Canon and have them take a look at it? Also, I dont know if its really an AF issue, it's known to be soft at f2.8 but when set to f5.6 or above it starts to become sharper but still not quite as sharp as I was hoping an expensive lens like this to be. Is this really a known property of this lens? You know, being a little soft. :(

178
5D MK III Sample Images / Re: Lanscape: 5D mkIII 24-70mmL
« on: October 09, 2012, 04:46:35 AM »
24-70mm F/2.8 L is a very sharp lens .However,I found most of the time not wide enough for landscape work.


Canon 5DMark III + Canon 24-70mm F/2.8 L for landscape work

What was the aperture set to on this shot? Also was it on a tripod?

179
Added two more (5DIII + 135L F2):





Holy details and colors! is that 100% crop on the first image? If not, is it possibe to share the 100% crop on the subject! I'd like to see how crazy detail 5dIII paired with 135 looks like! If this is it, its already nice and sharp! Kudos!

180
EOS Bodies / Re: Canon 5d Mark III Shadow recovery
« on: October 08, 2012, 10:59:24 PM »
Is there any place where we can get 5d mk iii sample Raw files so we can play around how much detail we can recover from the shadows. And is the ISO level in 5d mk iii superior at 6400 compared let's say d600 or d800? I was trying the raw files from dpreview but some thing from a more natural setting (environment, landscape, outdoor or indoor portrait) would give help clear out how much we can recover without creating those nasty bandings and noise.
You do not create banding and noise, it is just there, and if you boost the exposure enough, you will see it.  It seldom shows in a print, only when you look at the image at 1:1.
The issue with obtaining raw images is that every image is different, so its easy to manipluate the results by selecting one that shows whatever you want.  Then you make a general statement about how wonderful or how awful it is.
As you raise the ISO, the DR and the ability to recover shadows lessens.  The D800, for example is supurb at ISO 100, but at 12800, the 5D MK III is better.  However, at very high ISO settings, neither will tolerate a poorly exposed shot, it must be right-on.  Forget about pulling up shadows at ISO 12800.

Lol, yeah meant to say revealing those banding. I felt it was considerably less in 5d mk iii version of the raw file.

Pages: 1 ... 10 11 [12] 13 14 15