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If you'll have enough space, the TS-E 90mm is the way to go. If it's a room-filling table setup, probably the TS-E 45mm (or the TS-E 24mm II and a TC).
You are unlikely to get a better value for money lens than the 70-200 f/4 (non-IS). It was my first L lens and since then I've purchased only Ls ... It's addictive.
so it seems that mirror lock up is in essence just a form of IS for fairly long focal lengths when locked off?
i always thought it would be good practice for landscapes , to help achieve best sharpness, but it seems, its almost irrelevant for that from what im reading,my unscientific tests seem to point towards that for a 50 85 24 focal length for around 1/4 to 1/40 sec so far.
And for future reference (as someone else already mentioned), ISO 125 is not the best ISO for that camera body. Check out this chart that shows the sawtooth noise produced by the type of amplifiers used in the 5D2. You are better off at ISO 160.
http://home.comcast.net/~NikonD70/Charts/RN_ADU.htm#EOS%205D%20Mark%20II_14
Didn't use mirror lock. It might be helpful in some situations, but it wouldn't have caused this kind of motion blur.
Actually, a 1/20 s exposure is right in the range of shutter speeds (around 1/60 s to 1/2 s) where mirror slap can result in the camera shake-type blur you're seeing.
did you confirm that Mirror Lock was on? didnt see that in any of your replies. anyone else having issues like this in the future should understand that this is a likely cuplrit for camera shake at slow shutterspeeds on a tripod.
you also have to be careful of your own movement when making exposures like this. even if you are not physically touching the camera or tripod, walking around the camera position can cause vibration in the ground (depending on the surface you are on) and that can be transferred through the tripod and show up in exposures. this is not as likely outdoors but i have seen it happen on several occasions indoors when i or someone else walked by my rig during a long exposure.
So what ended up being the problem?
Took your invitation to look at the larger pixel peeping image and for some reason that file looks pretty sharp. The bridge is in focus and there is little evidence of blur. Check it out and see if you see the same.
If someone else confirms this it would put the culprit in the post processing department.. maybe some kind of image depth or resolution downsizing. Or maybe noise reduction is loosing the detail.
I looked at it as well, and its not up to expectations, it should be much sharper. If your images are not sharper, something might be wrong.
Hi all, I'm wondering if it's worth it to buy one or another of these 2 filter types for a 2 months Europe trip. I mean for landscapes and what would be the benefits of a Polarizing versus the ND etc. It would be a 82mm filter (tamron 24-70 VC ).. Thank you!