« on: March 20, 2013, 09:58:05 AM »
The first thing I would explore is whether your un-sharpness is due to misplaced focus or due to camera/subject movement.
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so it seems that mirror lock up is in essence just a form of IS for fairly long focal lengths when locked off?
i always thought it would be good practice for landscapes , to help achieve best sharpness, but it seems, its almost irrelevant for that from what im reading,my unscientific tests seem to point towards that for a 50 85 24 focal length for around 1/4 to 1/40 sec so far.
And for future reference (as someone else already mentioned), ISO 125 is not the best ISO for that camera body. Check out this chart that shows the sawtooth noise produced by the type of amplifiers used in the 5D2. You are better off at ISO 160.
Didn't use mirror lock. It might be helpful in some situations, but it wouldn't have caused this kind of motion blur.
Actually, a 1/20 s exposure is right in the range of shutter speeds (around 1/60 s to 1/2 s) where mirror slap can result in the camera shake-type blur you're seeing.
did you confirm that Mirror Lock was on? didnt see that in any of your replies. anyone else having issues like this in the future should understand that this is a likely cuplrit for camera shake at slow shutterspeeds on a tripod.
you also have to be careful of your own movement when making exposures like this. even if you are not physically touching the camera or tripod, walking around the camera position can cause vibration in the ground (depending on the surface you are on) and that can be transferred through the tripod and show up in exposures. this is not as likely outdoors but i have seen it happen on several occasions indoors when i or someone else walked by my rig during a long exposure.
So what ended up being the problem?
Took your invitation to look at the larger pixel peeping image and for some reason that file looks pretty sharp. The bridge is in focus and there is little evidence of blur. Check it out and see if you see the same.
If someone else confirms this it would put the culprit in the post processing department.. maybe some kind of image depth or resolution downsizing. Or maybe noise reduction is loosing the detail.
I looked at it as well, and its not up to expectations, it should be much sharper. If your images are not sharper, something might be wrong.
Hi all, I'm wondering if it's worth it to buy one or another of these 2 filter types for a 2 months Europe trip. I mean for landscapes and what would be the benefits of a Polarizing versus the ND etc. It would be a 82mm filter (tamron 24-70 VC ).. Thank you!
On telephoto, setting, the mirror lockup special function gives you an additional way to reduce camera shake, there will be no mirror slap to cause motion-induced blur.
It hard to imagine the setting where 1/20 exposure would be required for such a shot in sunlight, even at golden hour. Are you stopping way down?
You can check the lens on a flat building or target and see if it is sharp. There could have been some vibration or motion.
I avoid slow shutter speeds even with IS in favor of higher ISO settings.
I currently have two Yongnuo 565EX flashes, a Canon 580 EX, and a Canon 580EX II.
Canon 580EX - Synchronization is now off in the flash, preventing me from using it for my high speed work.
Canon 580EX II - Miniport no longer works. I have to use a hotshoe to trigger it
Yongnuo 565EX - Both of them still work fine