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Messages - Area256

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EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Shooting With the EOS 6D in Costa Rica
« on: December 29, 2012, 04:42:44 PM »
I just spend a week in British Columbia with the Canon 6D, and it performed very well.  I left the GPS on full time and the batter drain seemed minimal.  It rained lightly almost non-stop, and the Camera didn't seem to mind getting a bit wet.  I did a lot of landscape, and the DR proved to be quite good in most cases.

I must say having the GPS is a nice feature; I can now use the map in Lightroom 4 to locate images taken at specific locations. 

The exposure preview in Live View worked very well, which was the reason I got the 6D over the D600.  It made my long exposure landscape photography far easier.

Here is an example:

Morning Light by Area256, on Flickr

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Canon 7D: 'I need a Must Have's List'
« on: December 17, 2012, 09:05:54 PM »
I actually have no clue now how to use a 7D / 5Diii combo  ???

Stick the 10-22mm on your 7D, and use it for all your wide angle stuff.  Put the 70-300mm on your 5D3, and use it for distance work.  Swap that for the 50mm f/1.4 for portraits or low light.  Done.

I considered dual welding the 60D with the 10-22mm, and a 70-200mm on the 6D, but my budget didn't allow for that, so my 60D and 10-22mm went to pay off my 6D.

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Problem: slow AF 6D
« on: December 17, 2012, 08:42:48 PM »
I am beginning to think I am the only one who got a flawless 6D.   At least have not come across any issues yet.  I have my fingers crossed.

Mine's been great too.  Depending on what body the OP was coming from I can see his frustration.  If he was coming from a 7D, then it makes sense he's complaining about the AF.  If he was coming from a T2i or similar, the 6D, mine at least, smokes it for AF speed.

However, I put my 6D though a scenario I knew it would lose yesterday, tracking my dog running flat out towards me after a ball my friend had thrown.  My old 7D jumped at this opportunity nailing every shot, the 6D returned 1 of 6 shots tack sharp, 2 sort of acceptable, and 3 not at all acceptable.  This was using centre-point only.  Although I was able to shoot at 6,400 cleanly to stop motion, which I couldn't have done with the 7D.

The fact of the matter is, I knew going in that I'd lose AF ability with the 6D at the gain of better DOF control and low-light capability.  I also gained $500-800 by not going 5D3.  I don't often shoot high-speed action so it was a good tradeoff for me.  It is good to know the limitations though.

I've had basically the same experience, didn't notice a huge speed increase over the 60D, but it's fast even it poor light, and with long focus throw lenses like the 100L.  Camera works great for my needs, AF tracking is not so hot, but I don't use it anyway, so the extra money (vs. a 5D3) is going to fund a 135L in the near future.

I'd say best to buy any new camera like this, or the d600, locally so you can return it without hassle if needed.

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: 6D AF point direct selection Not Working
« on: December 17, 2012, 08:30:50 PM »
Yeah, both of you were right and also the manual, I was coming from G12 and I also don't blame myself, all other button works as when you press them first time.

I still don't get the point why you need to initially press shutter before being able to select AF.
Maybe software optimization issue, because multi-controller is also used navigating menu.


I'm guessing it's to prevent the camera entering an active viewfinder display state (and burning power) if the button was pressed by mistake.   While it's not a big deal, it would be nice to turn that "feature" off - and have the D-pad just wake up the camera.

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: DxOMark "Perceptual Megapixel"
« on: December 17, 2012, 08:24:13 PM »
Seems reasonable.  I know most of my lenses are being out resolved by the 20MP sensor in the 6D - and that's only in relation to the 100mm f/2.8L which seems to have the best resolution of the lot.  However even it could be under resolving compared to what the sensor can do.

Another bit of evidence, if you look at most review sites, you'll find one or two lenses that reach very high numbers, and the rest won't come close to that - so I'd assume based on that, that yes most lenses are being out resolved by the sensor.

Hence I never really did get the D800, unless you are also going shoot everything on a tripod with the best possible glass, it's overkill resulting in wasted space for most other applications.  Although great for landscape and product people who own awesome glass and shoot on tripods already.

Skeptical, but that would be a dream come true for a lot of people - myself included.

They wouldn't need to have a lot of lenses either.  A fast 35mm and 50mm would make most people happy to start.  No point in making zooms or super teles, or tilt-shifts, etc, they are all so big when made for FF (even if designed for mirror-less) they defeat the advantage of mirror-less.  Just use them adapted if you must.

Then they could add a semi-fast 24mm, 85mm, 100mm, and maybe a 16mm or 20mm, and they'd be set for lenses.

Ideally I'd have a nice DSLR to use with large lenses when needed, and carry a mirror-less FF with a 35mm or 50mm at all other times.  I don't think it would hurt the high-end DSRL market (can you see a pro with a 70-200mm f/2.8 on a small body?).  And it'll be priced so high that it wound't hurt the rebel market either.

Overall I see FF mirror-less as a niche market at best, mostly as a second camera for pros, and people with money (but not Leica money) who want the best quality possible without the size of DSLR.

Having said that, I'm still skeptical...  And Sony is likely to get to market first.   Also Canon's AF would need to be improved a lot before it would be taken seriously.

Lighting / Re: New to off camera flash, any tips/guides for beginners?
« on: December 16, 2012, 01:32:39 PM »
Not to echo what everyone else is saying, but a umbrella + light stand kit is a great place to start.  Since you have radio triggers, no need for a TTL cable (unless you are in situations that you have to have TTL), manual works best most of the time anyway since it's repeatable - you just have to walk over to your flash to change settings, but that's normally not a big deal.

Along with the light stand + umbrella kit, I'd recommend getting some cheap gels (some color gels for effects, and CTO/CTB gels for colour correction).   After that add a reflector before another flash, and learn how to use that.  I've found most of what can be done with two flashes can be done with 1 flash + $30-40 reflector.  5-in-1 reflectors work best, since you can use them as a flag as well - I own a few.

If you plan to work outside with your strobes for portraits, consider investing in some ND filters, or a TTL radio trigger/TTL cable that will support highspeed sync - then you can do nice shallow depth of field portraits.  Personally I use ND filters to keep my shutter speed down, and then buy cheap manual flashes.

The resources listed already are great, and most of all experiment!  Experience is the best teacher when it comes to mastering strobism and lighting in general.

EOS-M / Re: To buy M or not to buy M?
« on: December 16, 2012, 01:06:37 AM »
I like the idea of the M, I don't even mind the lack of an EVF or buttons - it's a compact after all.  The AF was just far to slow to make it something to consider though.  The OM-D and NEX cameras are proving to have far nicer AF, and the Fuji sensors and glass look amazing.  The Nikon V2 has really awesome AF, but it's also got a 2.7x crop :o

I'd wait for the next gen M, or go with another brand, unless the AF speed really isn't an issue for you - in which case it seems like a decent compact for someone with (small) Canon lenses.

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Wrong colors with my 5D MKIII?
« on: December 16, 2012, 12:40:47 AM »
I do quite a bit of amateur food photography and get largely the same results with auto white balance, as per other suggestions get a target of some form to white balance.

The only other thing I'd throw in there is that things are easier if you don't have mixed lighting, the shot looks like you used a flash, and I'm guessing that was the case considering ISO 640, f/2.5 and 1/250th. For food you'll probably get better results going down the path of a tripod and longer exposure times. Sometimes a single flash can give some pretty unnatural looking shadows on food even if you bounce it.

Looking at the image, I don't think a flash was used there.  If you are going to use flash with food photography getting an umbrella and light stand kit for like $60 will make a world of difference. (you'll also need a cheap sync cable or radio trigger if you have more money)  If you are going to shoot with a mix of flash and artificial interior light, add a colour gel to your flash and that should fix any mixed color temp issues (use a 1/2 or full CTO or CTB depending on the other light you are working with).

EOS Bodies / Re: 5D3 vs 6D AF in low light
« on: December 15, 2012, 11:59:11 PM »

Ok that's strange... Contrast detect should be better than phase detect in terms of precision and accuracy (it's just a lot slower) - that's what LensRentals.com found, and I trust them to be right - and kind of suspect something is wrong with that test.   I had a 60D which was very similar to the 7D, and it had great contrast detect AF precision (if you didn't mind waiting for it).

If you think that testing cameras inside of Costco with kit lenses on is going to show any actual difference - I would stick with your 450D. Sorry, sad truth  :'(

Gotta start somewhere.

I agree we all start somewhere, there is no need to be harsh.  When I got my Nikon Coolpix 950 I basically knew nothing beyond my P&S film camera (which was nothing), and that was an expensive high end camera in the day - I enjoyed it and have learned a lot since.

I would however recommend reading a few review sites to learn more about the 6D and D600 before making the plunge into either expensive camera.

You can get D600's real cheap. 
Buyers are not buying, perhaps due to the problem with oil or whatever splattering on the sensor every time you take a image.  Some say it eventually stops after a few thousand images, and a dozen sensor cleanings.  Resale value will be dismal.

Yes there is a sensor dust/oil problem.  I'm not sure it's the end of the world, or that it's the cause of the recent low prices - there is no evidence it's not selling well - or that it'll have bad resale values.  It's just speculation at this point, although it may be valid.  And it is a problem to consider, especially since Nikon won't admit to it; Canon seems a lot more willing to fix issues in it's new releases quickly and for free.  And I would factor in the cost of a few sensor cleanings on the D600 (don't try it yourself, that will lower the resale value of the camera, and could cause problems).  Have a look at Nikon Rumors for more information on the issue, and see lensrentals.com and their take on it.

Likely it was just the settings on the camera; someone likely changed something in the menu before you looked at it.  The d600 should be just as capable as any high end camera at rendering color well.   There are differences between Canon and Nikon color reproduction, but I'd have no objections to working with either, they are both good - just a little different.  It's also possible that the Nikon screen was a little "green", it was a problem in the D4, but I don't know if it's a problem in the D600.  Either way, the images aren't effected by the screen color - it was just annoying to some D4 users.

Will Canon drop it's prices before Christmas, well no one can be sure. My bet is no since we are still in the initial sock phase where the camera is in short supply in some parts of the world - they likely won't drop prices until they have extra stock.  However I could be wrong, the Nikon deal is going to put pressure on them.

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Crop vs FF for landscape photography
« on: December 15, 2012, 04:36:08 PM »
So I was wondering, if higher pixel density is useful for landscape photos, would the 7D be a more useful tool for the job than say the 5Ds or 6D. As I understand it (which may not be very well...) the shallower DOF with FF is no advantage and neither is high ISO capabilities if shooting with good ambient light (which most landscape shots tend to have I think).

I ask because i want to take more landscape shots. I currently own a 40D and am thinking of getting a 10-22mm. However, i will prob upgrade from the 40D in the new year (once we know what's happening with the 7D line) and may move to full frame (which would make the 10-22 redundant).

My first post btw - thanks all

think like this, a smaller sensor requires more of the lenses, about 1.5 (nikon aps) better resolution and contrast, so it is always better with a larger sensor if everything is equal when it comes to the actual sensor design and resolution.
example 20mp and 24x36 surface and 20 mp at a APS surface.
Is it landscape, details the larger sensor is always better and you must compensate the reach with longer lenses

+1 With my 6D most of my lenses visibly resolve much more detail, despite only having 2 more MP than the 60D.  With very high quality optics, like the 100mm f/2.8L, it's harder to see the difference in detail/sharpness. 

However, there are three advantages that even the best optics won't give you on crop, and that is DR, tonal range, and color depth.  Since the surface area is larger on a FF, it takes more light per pixel (or down-sampled pixel on a D800), and thus can read smaller changes in colour and brightness, and pick up smaller details in darker parts of the frame (giving more DR in post).

You'll almost always be shooting at ISO 100, and you may need to stop down more to get enough DOF, but since you can just expose for longer, a FF will collect more light per (resolution adjusted) pixel.  So you will have better DR, tonal range, and color depth than on a crop sensor camera.  There seems to be a war going on about whether a person can actually notice that, and I won't get into that, but there are at least technical reasons that FF is much better than crop for landscape photography.   Note some crop sensors can, due to better design, do just as well as some lesser quality FF sensor on these metrics.  So sensor design clearly has an impact, but sensor design aside, the FF will do better between two sensors of the same design.    Also it's fair to say Nikon (via Sony) has the edge at the moment in sensor design, but I own a 6D, not a d600, so sensors aren't everything.

EOS Bodies / Re: 5D3 vs 6D AF in low light
« on: December 15, 2012, 03:40:41 PM »
I'd guess that the focus point areas on the 5D3 is smaller than that on the 6D center point. i.e. the surface area of the 6D center point is likely twice as large to collect an extra stop of light vs the center point of the 5D3.   That may also make it better at picking up areas of contrast.  However I would think putting the 5D3 into one of the point spread options (i.e. using 5 or 9 points in a square) would give you a better chance of catching something than with the 6D large center point.   I did find playing with the 5D3 in the store that you had to be more careful about the areas of contrast you picked when using just one point.

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Canon 7D: 'I need a Must Have's List'
« on: December 14, 2012, 05:48:59 PM »
For bags I recently got the Think Tank Retrospective 7, which IMO is the greatest mid-sized camera bag ever made.  And the best part is, you don't look like you are walking around with camera gear.  I put two lenses, my camera, a flash, spare cards, ND filters, stepper rings, radio triggers, lens pens, a few small light modifiers, cables, chargers, and my iPad in that thing.

Flash: Everyone needs a real strobe. The ability to use the IR controls on the 7D to fire off-camera flash open up a whole world of possibilities. Start with IR control and then grow from there. Once you get a flash, you'll have no trouble finding ways to spend money on light modifiers (umbrellas, soft boxes, etc. etc.) and more and more flashes, not to mention radio-control.

+1 lots of my equipment is in the form of flashes and light modifiers.   They can really make a difference, even more than a lens in some cases - look-up "strobist" and you'll find tons of cool stuff you can do with flashes.   Best part is if you get some manual flashes, cheap radio triggers, cheap light modifiers, and some gels, it can actually be much less than the cost of some lenses to get a near professional level lighting setup.  Although I'd start with a 430EX II, and maybe a cheap umbrella + stand kit for like $60, and see how you like it.

I think most of the good lenses have already been mentioned.  If you aren't going full frame the 10-22mm is great on crop.  The 24-105mm f/4 is nice on crop, but more practical on FF unless you plan to take the 10-22mm with you as well.  The 100mm f/2.8L Macro is outstanding on crop and FF. The 70-200mm f/4 or f/2.8 lenses are also a good option, but only if you are shooting things at a long distance - closer in on crop camera they'll be hard to use.

And my two cents on the now endless 7D/6D/5D3 debate.  If you are shooting subjects that move quickly, the 7D and 5D3 are the best options.  The 6D however has an excellent IQ to price ratio, if you don't shoot fast moving subjects, it's a way to save some money, possibly for a lens or other cool gear - while keeping IQ at the level of the 5D3.

Also a tripod is a really important thing to have.  I don't travel anywhere without a good tripod, there are just so many times they make the difference between getting a shot, and not getting a shot.  Any old tripod will do the job 99% of the time, but the higher end ones will last much longer.

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