May 24, 2013, 01:15:17 AM

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Topics - notapro

Pages: [1]
1
I have a B+W circular polarizer.  On the inner surface there seem to be two flecks of something relfective, like pieces of glitter.  They appear to be slighty larger than the size of a period seen at the end of any given sentence in a canonrumors post.

Should the filter be cleaned?  If so, with what or by what method?  Will dust or the "flecks" I see affect photographs?  I suspect that they will not, or at least not any more than they would if they were on a lens surface, but would like to know more from those of you who have experience with this.

I am hesitant to clean the filter too agressively.  This is what I have:

http://www.adorama.com/BW77CPLKS.html

Suggestions and thoughts?

Thanks

2
In terms of image quality and out-of-focus rendering or (also?) “bokeh”, does one of these lenses have an edge for portraits and head shots at 100mm?

70-200mm f/2.8L IS II (8 rounded aperture blades)
100mm f/2.8L Macro IS (9 rounded aperture blades)

If there is no substantial/significant/notable/etc. difference between the two lenses at 100mm, I would be inclined to use the 100mm macro on a shoot because it is lighter.

However, if the 70-200mm lens (at 100mm) has some sort of appreciable advantage over the 100mm macro lens, then extra weight would be unimportant to me, and I would use the bigger lens.

From what I believe I have read elsewhere in Canon Rumors , but am unable to find exactly, is that the macro lens is not recommended generally for portraits (?), and that the 70-200mm is preferred, along with primes such as the 135mm f/2L or the 85mm f/1.2L.

Might anyone share thoughts or insight regarding this question?

3
Hello,

I have a Calumet Pro Series wireless trigger, which seems to be a Calumet-branded Phottix Stratto 2.4GHz trigger set.

When using a 5D Mark III with a 100mm f/2.8L Macro, I get consistently a black bar at the bottom of the frame (maybe about one-fifth to one-sixth the vertical dimension of the frame) with the shutter at 1/200 (at f/2.8 ).  At 1/160, the bar goes away.

I don't know whether bodies or lenses make a difference, but they appear to do so.

With a Rebel T3i and a 24mm f/1.4L II (at f/2.8 ), there is no bar at 1/200.

My flash unit is a 600EX-RT.

Any ideas as to what I'm missing or simply not seeing?

4
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Sensor dust on a new 5D Mark III
« on: January 04, 2013, 08:36:14 PM »
I have heard that sensor dust is present sometimes on new cameras, and in the case of a new 5D Mark III I received today, that statement holds true.  Using a blower made no difference, so the sensor will have a wet cleaning soon.  This is the third consecutive body (first two were Rebel T3i models) with non-blowable sensor dust right out of the box.  My question is whether many of you forum members have had similar experiences.  I must say that not being able to use a new camera right away does something to take the skip out of one’s step.

5
Lenses / What buy? A 24mm f/1.4L II or a 24-70mm f/2.8L II
« on: September 15, 2012, 11:40:24 AM »
Hello,

This is my first post to the forum.  My interest is shooting at 24mm (on a 5D Mark III) with no flash.  Nighttime cityscapes, museum exhibits, indoor group shots, poorly lit indoor events (e.g., cocktail parties, banquets), and outdoor evening events (e.g. social gatherings in patios, courtyards, backyards, etc.) would be the subjects.  Would the prime lens be sharper at 24mm f/2.8 than the zoom at 24mm f/2.8?

I would appreciate ideas and opinions anyone might offer (cost is not a factor in my decision).

Pages: [1]