September 30, 2014, 06:42:39 PM

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Topics - notapro

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Abstract / Macro bodyscapes
« on: July 20, 2014, 08:57:39 PM »
These are images that might be desribed as macro bodyscapes.  For color images, I can only guess as to how they might be rendered in the post, as I have had varying results with color images, whether using the "Save for Web" option or not (in Photoshop).

No image here is of any "nether region".  The file names give information as to the location or nature of the photographed spaces.

2
Lighting / Heat warning on 600EX-RT
« on: June 24, 2014, 12:42:45 AM »
Has anyone ever observed heat warnings on 600EX-RT flash units?

I had three inside a softbox, and after some 498 shots, I got a slower recycle time and noticed that the LCD panels were glowing red.  That was unsettling.  I replaced them with three other 600EX-RTs, and after just over 500 shots, I got more red LCDs and slower recycle times.  I had the units set at 1/8 power.  Fortunately, it was time to switch to natural light.

I didn't use again any of the flashes for more than a week, and everything seems fine.  Might the life of the flash tubes have been shortened significantly in any way?  I suspect not, but I am curious nonetheless.

On a side note, the ST-ET-R3 lasts for an extraordinarily long time between battery changes.  I've replaced batteries in the flash units four or five times, while only twice in the transmitter.

3
Lighting / Paul C Buff Baby Boomer Arm, Matthews Cheater Adapter
« on: January 10, 2014, 11:52:09 PM »
Hello, Everyone.

I am wondering whether anyone can share experience they have with either or both of these items.  I am considering them in order to allow more tilt with light modifiers (e.g., 43-inch Apollo Orb softbox).

Paul C Buff Baby Boomer Arm:

http://www.paulcbuff.com/mba.php

Matthews Cheater Adapter:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/187372-REG/Matthews_429241_Cheater_Adapter.html

4
Hello, Everyone.

I thought I noticed a dust spot in a photo.  I did a wet cleaning with one swab (VisibleDust green swab, VDust Plus liquid), then took a shot at f/16 with a 50mm f/1.2.  Threw it into Photoshop, brought the levels to where "dust stuff" could be seen, and this is what I got.  Maybe follow-up cleaning could take care of this?  Is shipment to Canon advised?

5
Hello, Everyone.

I have a 43-inch octagonal Apollo Orb softbox.  I wish to to use two or three Speedlites (no preference, but at least two) and would like to know what recommendations you have regarding brackets to use for mounting the Speedlites in the softbox.  I would also welcome suggestions for a suitable boom stand.  I am working with 600EX-RT flashes and an ST-E3-RT transmitter.  Though the softbox will be used indoors where wind will not be an issue, I would nonetheless like to use a robust boom stand.

Thoughts and suggestions, anyone?

6
Hello, Everyone.

I changed monitors recently (low-end, consumer-grade, not graphics- or photography-specific), and Windows 7 Professional (64-bit) recognizes the replacement monitor and has assigned the associated ICC/ICM profile for it.

When I view images on my machine, they look fine.  When uploading them to the forum here, it's as if they've become desaturated or washed out.

I can simulate the desaturated look by viewing the jpg files with no color profile associated.  Once I make the association, the viewer I use recognizes it, and the image looks normal.  Photoshop renders the image properly all the time.  Even "Windows Preview" renders the image properly.

Does anyone know what I should do in order to upload an image here that will look "normal" and not desaturated?  I thought I had jpg files saved with embedded color profiles, but maybe I missed something.  With my other monitor, this issue did not exist.

7
I have a question regarding my 5D Mark III.

When focusing in very low light conditions, the AF will suddenly cease functioning, as if the camera were MF only.

What brings back AF is pointing the camera to a light source.  The AF springs right into action.  Still, after coming back, if focus isn't achieved farily quickly, AF will "hang" again.

Is is expected or normal for AF to stop functioning in extremely low light?

If it makes any difference, what I describe happens with the 50mm f/1.2L lens.  I have not yet checked this out with other lenses.

8
I have a B+W circular polarizer.  On the inner surface there seem to be two flecks of something relfective, like pieces of glitter.  They appear to be slighty larger than the size of a period seen at the end of any given sentence in a canonrumors post.

Should the filter be cleaned?  If so, with what or by what method?  Will dust or the "flecks" I see affect photographs?  I suspect that they will not, or at least not any more than they would if they were on a lens surface, but would like to know more from those of you who have experience with this.

I am hesitant to clean the filter too agressively.  This is what I have:

http://www.adorama.com/BW77CPLKS.html

Suggestions and thoughts?

Thanks

9
In terms of image quality and out-of-focus rendering or (also?) “bokeh”, does one of these lenses have an edge for portraits and head shots at 100mm?

70-200mm f/2.8L IS II (8 rounded aperture blades)
100mm f/2.8L Macro IS (9 rounded aperture blades)

If there is no substantial/significant/notable/etc. difference between the two lenses at 100mm, I would be inclined to use the 100mm macro on a shoot because it is lighter.

However, if the 70-200mm lens (at 100mm) has some sort of appreciable advantage over the 100mm macro lens, then extra weight would be unimportant to me, and I would use the bigger lens.

From what I believe I have read elsewhere in Canon Rumors , but am unable to find exactly, is that the macro lens is not recommended generally for portraits (?), and that the 70-200mm is preferred, along with primes such as the 135mm f/2L or the 85mm f/1.2L.

Might anyone share thoughts or insight regarding this question?

10
Hello,

I have a Calumet Pro Series wireless trigger, which seems to be a Calumet-branded Phottix Stratto 2.4GHz trigger set.

When using a 5D Mark III with a 100mm f/2.8L Macro, I get consistently a black bar at the bottom of the frame (maybe about one-fifth to one-sixth the vertical dimension of the frame) with the shutter at 1/200 (at f/2.8 ).  At 1/160, the bar goes away.

I don't know whether bodies or lenses make a difference, but they appear to do so.

With a Rebel T3i and a 24mm f/1.4L II (at f/2.8 ), there is no bar at 1/200.

My flash unit is a 600EX-RT.

Any ideas as to what I'm missing or simply not seeing?

11
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Sensor dust on a new 5D Mark III
« on: January 04, 2013, 08:36:14 PM »
I have heard that sensor dust is present sometimes on new cameras, and in the case of a new 5D Mark III I received today, that statement holds true.  Using a blower made no difference, so the sensor will have a wet cleaning soon.  This is the third consecutive body (first two were Rebel T3i models) with non-blowable sensor dust right out of the box.  My question is whether many of you forum members have had similar experiences.  I must say that not being able to use a new camera right away does something to take the skip out of one’s step.

12
Lenses / What buy? A 24mm f/1.4L II or a 24-70mm f/2.8L II
« on: September 15, 2012, 11:40:24 AM »
Hello,

This is my first post to the forum.  My interest is shooting at 24mm (on a 5D Mark III) with no flash.  Nighttime cityscapes, museum exhibits, indoor group shots, poorly lit indoor events (e.g., cocktail parties, banquets), and outdoor evening events (e.g. social gatherings in patios, courtyards, backyards, etc.) would be the subjects.  Would the prime lens be sharper at 24mm f/2.8 than the zoom at 24mm f/2.8?

I would appreciate ideas and opinions anyone might offer (cost is not a factor in my decision).

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