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Messages - scottkinfw

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106
Software & Accessories / Re: FoCal Pro version 1.5 and the 5D Mark III
« on: August 05, 2012, 01:11:37 AM »
I upgraded to v1.5 Pro.
My experience has not been good on my 5D3.  The recommended AF was all over the place for all lenses (24-105, 300mmF4L is, 400mm f 5.6L, 70-200 f2.8L).  The optimal aperture recommendations were relatively the same.  I ran at least 3 tests per camera and each lens.  I was looking for two exact numbers, and it sometimes took 6 runs.   It didn't run on my 50D. 

I am going on an African safari in two weeks, so I just gave up and sent the lenses and bodies in to Canon to be sure. 

The prior versions were good, but that was before the 5D3.  I am sure that they will get the bugs out, but I don't think it is ready for prime time yet-especially if you have a 5d3 or 50D and an important shoot.

Quote
I wish I would have known about or done a search for discounts... Oh well.  I'll forget about it soon enough.
To the OP, I had the same issue with my settings not being restored after a crash and I unhooked my camera.  Subsequent calibration sessions were fine and my settings were restored(except RAW on my CF card for some reason). 
Something that has come in very handy is a USB extension cable that I bought last year for another reason.  It gives me about 10'-15' of extra cable so I don't have to move my laptop around as much.

I know on that price of 69.95 BP to 108.59 USD then PayPal tacks on another $4 and change.  I wanted to read more about the product and when searching I found the Martin Bailey site and get lucky.

I'm running the laptop on a fully charged battery when i start so have the freedom of moving around.  Watch those lengthy USB cables they can have a reduction in power and it is possible to loose connectivity.  There is a limitation with length on printers for this reason and I would imagine the same may apply to other USB devices

107
EOS Bodies / An IS Question- position 1 or 2?
« on: July 28, 2012, 12:50:47 AM »
I would appreciate input please

I am going on a hot air balloon ride and intend to use my 5DIII in video mode, likely with 70-200 f/2.8 IS II. I will likely use a bean bag.  Obviously, the balloon will be moving, and I will be shooting moving wildlife.  So the question is:  Which IS position should I use for best results?  Would it be different for stills?

Thanks.

sek

108
Animal Kingdom / Re: Show your Bird Portraits
« on: July 15, 2012, 01:49:35 AM »
White-rumped Helmet-shrike

109
Animal Kingdom / Re: Show your Bird Portraits
« on: July 15, 2012, 01:30:24 AM »
Lilac-Breasted Roller
Serengeti, Tanzania

110
Landscape / Re: Need critique please
« on: July 15, 2012, 01:05:37 AM »
My suggestion requires no equipment or new photoshop skills.

Outdoor/wildlife photography is sooo hard because you can't control lighting at a given time.

I don't find the photo particularly compelling (my passion is wildlife, so no offense meant), however, for the potential uses you state, it would be quite good.

Now for the tip.  Although you can't control the light at any given moment, you can control WHEN you take the pic.  I love the sky and clouds, but the problem is that the temple is under exposed, and detail is lost, which is one reason it doesn't resonate with me. 

Next time have the sun behind you so that it lightens up the temple, best would be golden hour.  Overcast would also even out lighting for you, but you lose the sky and clouds.  Finally I would love to see people in the pics, not just cars.  People doing things will give it context.  Most people are not Jewish, so this could also be educational.

111
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: How to proceed?
« on: July 15, 2012, 12:56:52 AM »
Actually, I agree with at least some if not all of what is posted.

Hopefully I can add some insight. 

I remember waiting and waiting for the 5D3 which never seemed to come.    I purchased a 5D2 which has great quality, but really poor AF in general.  I found that the 5D2 was not at all good at tracking moving objects like wildlife, and in dim/dark light, obtaining focus lock could be dicey.  The center focus point did the best in these situations.

I picked up the 5D3 and agree that the AF is way better and addresses my concerns listed above, so I am very happy.  There are many different AI Servo modes etc. so I agree, must really work with it.

I also love the fact that mfa allows adjustment at both ends of focal range, way cool.

With my 50D I avoided like poison, going above ISO 400, way better with 2 & 3.

In the end, it would be a good idea to rent both and spend a weekend with them- side by side with same lenses would be best.  Put them through their paces in all situations you expect to encounter.

If you are not in a rush, may be a good idea to see how the rumors for the new camera pan out.

Whatever you choose, you will see a great improvement in iq.  Think of the camera as a long term investment so you will amortize it over many years.

112
5D MK III Sample Images / Re: Post Your 4th of July Photos
« on: July 06, 2012, 12:06:06 AM »
I didn't use Bulb, i altered the shutter speed, and kept an eye out for the "blinkies"  Made sure that only the initial explosion of the charge was over exposed, and experimented with shutter speed.  Trial and error.  With the long exposures, they don't look like fireworks much, but it was an experiment.

Taken above Mission Viejo Lake, CA.  Settings were:  taken with Canon 5D MK3 and Canon 70-300 L IS USM lens @ 4.7s, F10, ISO 100, tripod (Y), BULB setting with TR cable, @ 83mm AWB.  Post Process in DPP only RAW to JPG.  No HDR


4th of July 2012 (Mission Viejo, CA) by Revup67, on Flickr


Nice.  How did you arrive at those settings without over-exposure in bulb, just trial and error?

113
this is a 2-3 second range exposure.

All quite different results.

Long exposure ~ 4-6 sec

Here is one where I adjusted  temp to left.

Here is one in about the 4 second range

I used f11 or so, iso 100 and 3 to 6 second exposures and got way different results.

I'll post a few.

Bulb is waaaaaay too long. You want an exposure in the range of a few to several seconds. Just as with lightning and with flash, aperture controls exposure; shutter speed controls the length of the tracks. Base ISO is good.

The challenge for exposure with fireworks comes when you try to shoot more than just the fireworks themselves, like including upturned faces or the city skyline. There's even going to be a full moon low in the sky on the Fourth...if you can shoot the moon and the fireworks, fantastic, but good luck getting the exposure right....

Cheers,

b&

114
Long exposure ~ 4-6 sec

Here is one where I adjusted  temp to left.

Here is one in about the 4 second range

I used f11 or so, iso 100 and 3 to 6 second exposures and got way different results.

I'll post a few.

Bulb is waaaaaay too long. You want an exposure in the range of a few to several seconds. Just as with lightning and with flash, aperture controls exposure; shutter speed controls the length of the tracks. Base ISO is good.

The challenge for exposure with fireworks comes when you try to shoot more than just the fireworks themselves, like including upturned faces or the city skyline. There's even going to be a full moon low in the sky on the Fourth...if you can shoot the moon and the fireworks, fantastic, but good luck getting the exposure right....

Cheers,

b&

115
Here is one where I adjusted  temp to left.

Here is one in about the 4 second range

I used f11 or so, iso 100 and 3 to 6 second exposures and got way different results.

I'll post a few.

Bulb is waaaaaay too long. You want an exposure in the range of a few to several seconds. Just as with lightning and with flash, aperture controls exposure; shutter speed controls the length of the tracks. Base ISO is good.

The challenge for exposure with fireworks comes when you try to shoot more than just the fireworks themselves, like including upturned faces or the city skyline. There's even going to be a full moon low in the sky on the Fourth...if you can shoot the moon and the fireworks, fantastic, but good luck getting the exposure right....

Cheers,

b&

116
Here is one in about the 4 second range

I used f11 or so, iso 100 and 3 to 6 second exposures and got way different results.

I'll post a few.

Bulb is waaaaaay too long. You want an exposure in the range of a few to several seconds. Just as with lightning and with flash, aperture controls exposure; shutter speed controls the length of the tracks. Base ISO is good.

The challenge for exposure with fireworks comes when you try to shoot more than just the fireworks themselves, like including upturned faces or the city skyline. There's even going to be a full moon low in the sky on the Fourth...if you can shoot the moon and the fireworks, fantastic, but good luck getting the exposure right....

Cheers,

b&

117
I used f11 or so, iso 100 and 3 to 6 second exposures and got way different results.

I'll post a few.

Bulb is waaaaaay too long. You want an exposure in the range of a few to several seconds. Just as with lightning and with flash, aperture controls exposure; shutter speed controls the length of the tracks. Base ISO is good.

The challenge for exposure with fireworks comes when you try to shoot more than just the fireworks themselves, like including upturned faces or the city skyline. There's even going to be a full moon low in the sky on the Fourth...if you can shoot the moon and the fireworks, fantastic, but good luck getting the exposure right....

Cheers,

b&

118
Animal Kingdom / Re: ELK Posts
« on: July 03, 2012, 09:23:47 PM »
Are you using a polarizer here?

mark IV 
600mm f/6.3   1/1000 iso 400

119
Animal Kingdom / Re: ELK Posts
« on: July 03, 2012, 09:21:29 PM »
Beautiful.

I am jealous.

sek

mark II 1Ds

600mm f/4.0  1/700 iso 400

120
EOS Bodies / Re: F1 Silverstone - advice with the 5D MkIII AF
« on: June 22, 2012, 11:50:07 AM »
Probably a stupid comment, but be sure to slip the IS to mode 2 for panning.

Start practising using AI Servo now. The trick is to keep the AF point glued to exactly the same spot on the car at all times as you pan with it. Sounds impossible? Its not, but it needs practise.

Try to avoid fence posts and the backs of spectators heads suddenly dragging the focus from the real subject.

You will not get 100%, but the focus success rate should be high.

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