Cuts out the needless dead space.
Cuts out the needless dead space.
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Every frame in focus.....hmmm
Give it to Tony Northrup and I am sure he could bugger up the settings and drop that down to 60%
He is pretty much doing it now.
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I swear, it must have been someone hacking my account. I don't know where those penile enhancement ads came from!!!!
I don't use the N-word and I don't like people around me using it either.
Thanks for all of the replies and to be more specific, I am a part-time pro, but due to some annoying health issues (disc problems in neck, worn out knees, and torn rotator cuffs) I have all but quit the paid work this year. I would like to get back into things once I get through rehab/surgery, which should be done in the next few months.
The thing that transpired this was from looking at my work as I prepare to enter the North American Nature Photography Association (NANPA) Showcase contest. I look back over my nature and wildlife work and I realize that it's nowhere near the level of the pros who place in the top 250 of the contest and wonder if I'm wasting my time doing nature/wildlife. If I could sit out in the wilds every day, I would probably get better shots, but nature photography is about luck as much or more than anything else. Unfortunately, I have a wife and bills and can't afford to do that.
On the other hand, it seems like some of the other work I do comes very easily and I get very good results just about every time I shoot. I used to shoot fashion/models back in the film days and made good money doing that, but I'm in a small city now so that's somewhat out.
I don't mind being a generalist, but part of me would like to be really good at one thing instead of okay at lots of things. Maybe I'm just making too much of this but I'm frustrated with the quality of my work.
a hobby or a profession?Very well and important question.
If you are a hobbyist (as I am and as I suppose from your "far too little time "), then let me tell you, that I've met several hobbyists who went into one certain direction and after some time they got bored/frustrated/exhausted because they couldn't improve any more and the joy of a good picture came by too seldomly. So they went on.
Conclusion: As a hobbyist try to stay a flexible allrounder and just specialize on what you like most today or tomorrow. And feel free to always try something new.
If you are a professional, then I am supposingly the wrong one to give you advice but...
If you are a professional, then you will have to specialize to make a living and you will have to be really good, in art, technique and most of all: marketing. And I suppose that again you will be best in just trying out/feeling, what you like the most. Only if you're really into one area, then you will have the passion to push yourself to the edge.
Either way you will have to try it out, what you prefer or like the most - if you can't feel it yet.
And this - of course - is in opposition to your "far too little time to shoot" *sigh*
I have far too much gear and far too little time to shoot, so I would like to specialize. How have those of you who specialize in one area found that specialty?
I wouldn't use a supertele with a ballhead.
The mere risk of the lens flopping down when adjusting is scary enough, and the amazing convenience of using a gimbal head, even with a 100-400mm, is the final clincher.
If you expect switching back and forth between collared and non-collared lenses, a quick release clamp that allows switching between ballheads and gimbal heads will be very useful. RRS makes these clamps and the Arca Swiss dovetails that go with the heads.
I have the RRS clamping leveling base and dovetails on my gimbal and ballhead to make switching easier. I use the gimbal with the 600 II, usually the ballhead with everything else. However, I can use my RRS PG-02 LLR gimbal with standard lenses by attaching via the upright arm of the L-bracket, in a pinch...or when I put a nodal slide between gimbal and L-bracket, I have a multirow panorama rig.
Both expansion and zone modes will be fine when shooting the planes flying between the pylons.
To track the plan in the sky, you might want to consider 41(cross only) or 61 AF, Ai servo-tracking. . Looking through some youtube videos, these planes seem to make erratic twists and turns at same-high-speed. I would give case5 a hard look over case2.
I would start my camera something this:
Tracking Sen: -1
AF pt auto switching: 2
***FINE TUNE the AF at the location is the key***
If you can, track the plane from far out. Allow the 41/61 AF pts to pick up the plane and track it. Wait for right moment, since the buffer on 5D III is not that great.
Look forward to see your photos.
I went to the UK (Ascot) RB air race a couple of weeks back. The Saturday I think is the qualifying races in Texas as it was in the UK. At Ascot that was a busy day, but nothing like the Sunday which was wall to wall with people - almost to the extent you couldn't move. So for Photo's the Saturday in my opinion was the better day.
Its an obvious point, but they are moving fast, I calculate even at 1/2000 they will have moved about 3 cm, so ideally even at that shutter speed a good panning action is important.
I use One shot and AI-Servo (on a 7d) - I am not sure that Back Button is the way to go for this, I believe the 5D's focusing system is supposed to be better than the 7D so I might be inclined to let the camera do the work...the pylons did cause some issues when I was in AI Servo when tracking the plane through them.
There are quite a few warm up sessions in any case, so I would experiment if I were you, I found it a good day to try to improve my technique with fast moving objects.
As to which lens, If the placement of the planes is anything like Ascot (and for Safety reasons I think it will be), I doubt that the planes will be too close so you will not be zooming on the 200, just max'd out. I think I would tend towards the 300,but that's assuming the extra weight doesn't impede your panning ability.
In any case I am sure you'll have a great day and far too many shots!
You must live in the DFW area.