« on: July 30, 2013, 02:38:18 AM »
Here is another one, same settings, only a bit farther away. On blowing up, grain/noise is very apparent.
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I just started yesterday and have a lot to learn. I started with a fly as I have read on here. I'll post more as I get some.
7D Canon 100 2.8 Macro.
At some point I my have to get the L version as I see IS being needed for this stuff.
100% crop on the Fly.
Really enjoyable. Thanks for sharing! I love this lens as well.
So, I bought my 5D Mark III in June 2012...
Well, moths passed by, and in december, right before I was going to Africa for a documentary shoot, me and the crew decided to try out what camera system we should use....
It was moths! Feckin' hell, I never would have thunk it.
It's not about 'fake' - it's about transmission curves.
Can't speak for the 'Rocketfish' or Canon, but Hoya, Zeiss, and B+W all publish their transmission curves. No filter has a perfectly vertical cutoff on a transmission curve - most good commercial multicoated filters that 'block' wavelengths ramp from ~0% transmission to their max of >99% over a 25-125 nm range (although some of the longpass and bandpass filters I use in microscopy are close to vertical, with a slope covering <5 nm - and they come with a price tag commensurate with that performance).
The Zeiss has the steepest slope of the three, ramping up over the 410-435 nm range (in fact, it's cutting out some blue light, which is considered to start at 400 nm). The Hoya has the least steep slope, running from 350-460 nm or so, meaning its passing some UV in the 350-399 nm range, and blocking a bit of blue light as well. The B+W is intermediate, ramping up from 360-430 nm.
So, with the '395 nm flashlight' (which actually uses an LED that emits at 380-385 nm, but what's 10-15 nm among friends?), you can see from the transmission curves that the Zeiss will block that, while the Hoya and the B+W filters will pass some of it.
Of course, while that might be good to know if you're shooting film, none of that matters if you've got a dSLR. The dSLR's sensor is insensitive to UV light, so there's no difference between a UV filter (be it the 410 nm Zeiss or the 360 nm B+W) and a clear filter that fully passes the long end of the UV spectrum. I have empirically tested my 7D and 5DII for UV sensitivity with calibrated UV/Vis light sources (costing a hell of a lot more $$ than a flashlight to detect cat urine!) and some of those precise bandpass filters mentioned above (running a lab that has such equipment comes in handy sometimes) - there's no need for a UV filter. I do use UV filters for protection (B+W MRC or Nano), instead of clear - but that's only because every time I've needed to buy one, the UV version was cheaper than the clear one (although that's not the case with all brands or in all geographies).
So, my advice is to just buy whichever is cheaper, clear or UV. I'd still pass on the Hoya - it blocks a bit too much blue (and that's the least sensitive color channel). Since it blocks less of the visible blue light, the B+W is actually a bit better than the Zeiss in that regard (because sometimes 5-10 nm does matter among friends).
Hi, I have been getting into bird photography since the beginning of this year. I am shooting with a 7D and 100-400 L. Attached is a recent exposure (I have attached both my processed version and the original RAW). This is probably not my best work, certainly not my worst. What I am looking for is a critique of my exposure technique (what you can infer), the image itself, and the processing. Feel free to download the RAW and post an example of how you think I should have processed it (please include a basic write up of what you did).
I am just looking for opinions and suggestions on how I can improve and hone my skills.
Some details about my technique. This was taken about 7-10 feet from the female red-winged blackbird at about 6PM. I used AF Servo, single point AF, Spot metering, ETTR (as much as I dared), and IS to achieve this shot at 1/800s, f/8.0, ISO 800 @ 400mm. I processed the image completely in Lightroom 4. I cropped, adjusted WB, and globally sharpened, then applied the following local adjustments: highlight recovery, contrast, and applied NR.
RAW photo: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/36974080/Public%20RAW%20Photos/_7D_7610.CR2
Thanks to the advice I got right here one of my eagle pictures won this week's Philadelphia Inquirer photo contest. There'll be 5 finalists in September with the overall winner announced soon after. I can potentially win back the Canon 100-400 rental fee.