16
Lenses / Re: Canon 24mm TSE_II Missing part
« on: September 27, 2012, 07:48:42 AM »
It just fell off. Picked up the camera and lens to take a shot and it wasn't there!
June 20, 2013, 12:40:39 AM
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17
Lenses / Canon 24mm TSE_II Missing part
« on: September 27, 2012, 02:00:43 AM »
Hello all. I'm about to get a quote for a missing part from Borehamwood, though my lens is only 3 months old it should be covered under warranty (I hope).
Mine has a missing bit. This ever happened to you guys?
BTW. Not trying to win awards with my studio photography so please don't critique how bad it is. Cheers.
Mine has a missing bit. This ever happened to you guys?
BTW. Not trying to win awards with my studio photography so please don't critique how bad it is. Cheers.
18
Technical Support / Re: Bad 5D Mkii or is Nikon that much better?
« on: September 19, 2012, 07:58:22 AM »
honesty, you are cracking me off when you are saying 3 stops darker (that means whatever slightly brighter than mid gray will become close to black). imo, one of the following could be the cases:
1. you have bought a lemon used camera, or
Bought Brand new.
2. you do not how to use it properly, or
Possible, but when you see below I think you'll understand.
3. you have a bad instructor (go look for another one, hopefully your instructor is not cliff mautner. as if he is, then he is trying to tell you to buy nikon. but i do not believe that he is going to do that... and keep in mind that jerry ghionis has used canon 5d classic for years.), or
Nope
4. when he took a picture, he turned light on. when you took picture, he turned light off
Nope
5. tbd by people in this forum
Not sure what that means.
Attached is a comparison between my old 5dmki and newish 5dmkii using the same settings.
Based on this test alone the 5dmkii is duff and is going back for a warranty repair today.
Thanks for your help, but I wish I'd only thought of this earlier. Would have saved you guys some grief.
Regards
David
BTW both ISO's are on 100
1. you have bought a lemon used camera, or
Bought Brand new.
2. you do not how to use it properly, or
Possible, but when you see below I think you'll understand.
3. you have a bad instructor (go look for another one, hopefully your instructor is not cliff mautner. as if he is, then he is trying to tell you to buy nikon. but i do not believe that he is going to do that... and keep in mind that jerry ghionis has used canon 5d classic for years.), or
Nope
4. when he took a picture, he turned light on. when you took picture, he turned light off
Nope
5. tbd by people in this forum
Not sure what that means.
Attached is a comparison between my old 5dmki and newish 5dmkii using the same settings.
Based on this test alone the 5dmkii is duff and is going back for a warranty repair today.
Thanks for your help, but I wish I'd only thought of this earlier. Would have saved you guys some grief.
Regards
David
BTW both ISO's are on 100
19
Technical Support / Re: 6D wi-fi live view
« on: September 19, 2012, 12:48:56 AM »
Hello there,
If it's anything like my Canon wft-e4 ii then yes it will display live feed to your Android it works via your web browser.
I have an iPhone but it should work on any browser/wifi capable device.
You can control the camera, make and change settings on the camera remotely and take shots remotely and see the shots remotely, just make sure you shoot either in jpg or Raw/jpg so you can at least see immediately the shot you took.
The furthest distance I got was 90 odd meters away in Winter the shot below is one case in point.
http://www.redbubble.com/people/redtree/works/8451266-go-the-distance
I have a Hahnel Giga T Pro as backup for shutter pressing but in most instances the iPhone with wifi is enough.
I've just done a movie of the settings and how it works which I'll post later today.
Regards
David
If it's anything like my Canon wft-e4 ii then yes it will display live feed to your Android it works via your web browser.
I have an iPhone but it should work on any browser/wifi capable device.
You can control the camera, make and change settings on the camera remotely and take shots remotely and see the shots remotely, just make sure you shoot either in jpg or Raw/jpg so you can at least see immediately the shot you took.
The furthest distance I got was 90 odd meters away in Winter the shot below is one case in point.
http://www.redbubble.com/people/redtree/works/8451266-go-the-distance
I have a Hahnel Giga T Pro as backup for shutter pressing but in most instances the iPhone with wifi is enough.
I've just done a movie of the settings and how it works which I'll post later today.
Regards
David
20
Technical Support / Re: Bad 5D Mkii or is Nikon that much better?
« on: September 19, 2012, 12:16:31 AM »
Thank you for your reply.
I take it you were comparing your LCD display image with that of his Nikon during your session -- did you happen to check to see the relative brightness settings of both cameras' LCD screens? If you had downloaded images from both camers to the same computer then looked at the images on the same screen you might have had a different impression.
I was going off the histogram from both cameras and I was trying to emulate what the photographer had.
To me it seems your shot #2 could be opened up about 1/2 stop or so -- histogram seems to indicate that as well. Your #3 & #4 look too hot on my monitor (unless you were specifically going for high key look) and the histogram indicates that as well. IMO I'd say f-8 is about where you should be, not f-5.6. One stop difference between two cameras isn't too hard to imagine. If you are still concerned your 5DII is way off, and don't have a good light meter, try checking it using the old sunny-16 rule. (Bright sunny day, outside exposure should be f-16 at 1/ISO shutter) It won't be perfect, but it will tell you if you are multiple stops off.
All I've noticed in the past with my 5D2 is if I shoot 50-250 iso and if the dark areas on the histogram are past on on the last line on the left I get horrible grain and noise if I try to push it up in lightness for any reason. I assumed that when I saw the photographers histogram whacked way up like that that I should be too. As the reason for this session was not technical and I was worried about talking to the model, never thought to ask why. It was a blip on the radar of enjoyment at the time and was still in the dark hence the questions.
By "shadow definition" I'm talking about the position of the shadow and the crispness/softness of the shadow line behind the model. Note that in #2, #3 & #4 the shadow is notably to the subject's right side (camera left) and is fairly soft edged. In #5 the shadow is much closer to directly behind the model and has more distinct edges. Given the light was not moved, this implies the subject was much closer to the background in that shot. Closer to the backdrop implies further from the light source. In turn that implies an exposure change needed to accomodate.
I think the model may have moved about a step back, though in the grand scheme of things that was probably a good thing as I opened up the aperture her moving back meant the highlights wern't blown that much.
I think your 5DII is probably fine. Your may have been out of your comfort zone and distracted by minor differences.
OK thank you for your time and info.
Regards
David
I take it you were comparing your LCD display image with that of his Nikon during your session -- did you happen to check to see the relative brightness settings of both cameras' LCD screens? If you had downloaded images from both camers to the same computer then looked at the images on the same screen you might have had a different impression.
I was going off the histogram from both cameras and I was trying to emulate what the photographer had.
To me it seems your shot #2 could be opened up about 1/2 stop or so -- histogram seems to indicate that as well. Your #3 & #4 look too hot on my monitor (unless you were specifically going for high key look) and the histogram indicates that as well. IMO I'd say f-8 is about where you should be, not f-5.6. One stop difference between two cameras isn't too hard to imagine. If you are still concerned your 5DII is way off, and don't have a good light meter, try checking it using the old sunny-16 rule. (Bright sunny day, outside exposure should be f-16 at 1/ISO shutter) It won't be perfect, but it will tell you if you are multiple stops off.
All I've noticed in the past with my 5D2 is if I shoot 50-250 iso and if the dark areas on the histogram are past on on the last line on the left I get horrible grain and noise if I try to push it up in lightness for any reason. I assumed that when I saw the photographers histogram whacked way up like that that I should be too. As the reason for this session was not technical and I was worried about talking to the model, never thought to ask why. It was a blip on the radar of enjoyment at the time and was still in the dark hence the questions.
By "shadow definition" I'm talking about the position of the shadow and the crispness/softness of the shadow line behind the model. Note that in #2, #3 & #4 the shadow is notably to the subject's right side (camera left) and is fairly soft edged. In #5 the shadow is much closer to directly behind the model and has more distinct edges. Given the light was not moved, this implies the subject was much closer to the background in that shot. Closer to the backdrop implies further from the light source. In turn that implies an exposure change needed to accomodate.
I think the model may have moved about a step back, though in the grand scheme of things that was probably a good thing as I opened up the aperture her moving back meant the highlights wern't blown that much.
I think your 5DII is probably fine. Your may have been out of your comfort zone and distracted by minor differences.
OK thank you for your time and info.
Regards
David
21
Technical Support / Re: Bad 5D Mkii or is Nikon that much better?
« on: September 18, 2012, 01:19:47 PM »
Thank you old-pr-pix,
Sorry I'm a bit thick, what does that all mean?
I moved from f11 to f5.6. His camera stayed on f11.
Of this scene I took 6 shots in total. It was only for me to be able to talk to the model.
Any technical knowledge or tuition was not needed or required for this shot other than trying to figure out why my camera came out a lot darker than his. Once I'd play with the settings to match what he was seeing on his Nikon I took 6 shots and during that time I spoke to the model during that. All out of my comfort zone.
The shots from my camera came out dark and his looked much much lighter. The histogram on his camera from the very beginning reflects what I was trying to achieve in shot 4.
The lighting, model, photographer, camera and myself did not move position. The photographer and I were standing in the exact same spot while shooting the model.
The studio lighting never changed or was played with.
It was 10 am in the morning the sun was out and it was not cloudy, the blinds were drawn.
The photographer shot his shots at 10.01am I shot mine 10.01am 20secs later. My first shot was very dark.
My reaction was eh? what?
I showed the photographer my screen and he went eh?
Try this setting.
I put in his recommendation.
My second shot was a little better, but I still went eh?
I showed the photographer my screen and he went eh?
Try this setting.
I dialed in his recommendation.
My third shot was much lighter and I was happier. As I was beginning to think I broke my camera or was being a nonce.
After the fourth shot, the photographer asked if I was happy to continue.
His instructions were right now forget about the settings and lighting this is about how you react with the model, let me see how you talk to her and I'll have an idea of how you deal with that and I'll show you what I do.
I wasn't trying to win awards in composition, or be technically genius.
I'm just confused to why I had to open up my camera to f5.6 to match his.
Any clue or did you answer that in your technical detail?
Why is my camera darker when I match his settings?
Is my camera bad or is that an a typical Canon 5D2?
Regards
David
Sorry I'm a bit thick, what does that all mean?
I moved from f11 to f5.6. His camera stayed on f11.
Of this scene I took 6 shots in total. It was only for me to be able to talk to the model.
Any technical knowledge or tuition was not needed or required for this shot other than trying to figure out why my camera came out a lot darker than his. Once I'd play with the settings to match what he was seeing on his Nikon I took 6 shots and during that time I spoke to the model during that. All out of my comfort zone.
The shots from my camera came out dark and his looked much much lighter. The histogram on his camera from the very beginning reflects what I was trying to achieve in shot 4.
The lighting, model, photographer, camera and myself did not move position. The photographer and I were standing in the exact same spot while shooting the model.
The studio lighting never changed or was played with.
It was 10 am in the morning the sun was out and it was not cloudy, the blinds were drawn.
The photographer shot his shots at 10.01am I shot mine 10.01am 20secs later. My first shot was very dark.
My reaction was eh? what?
I showed the photographer my screen and he went eh?
Try this setting.
I put in his recommendation.
My second shot was a little better, but I still went eh?
I showed the photographer my screen and he went eh?
Try this setting.
I dialed in his recommendation.
My third shot was much lighter and I was happier. As I was beginning to think I broke my camera or was being a nonce.
After the fourth shot, the photographer asked if I was happy to continue.
His instructions were right now forget about the settings and lighting this is about how you react with the model, let me see how you talk to her and I'll have an idea of how you deal with that and I'll show you what I do.
I wasn't trying to win awards in composition, or be technically genius.
I'm just confused to why I had to open up my camera to f5.6 to match his.
Any clue or did you answer that in your technical detail?
Why is my camera darker when I match his settings?
Is my camera bad or is that an a typical Canon 5D2?
Regards
David
22
Technical Support / Re: Bad 5D Mkii or is Nikon that much better?
« on: September 18, 2012, 07:14:20 AM »
"Did you actually pay good money for this 'course'?"
I paid for the course.
"The lighting is really bad!"
Very harsh & not flattering.
There is a reason for that which I did not mention at the beginning as I did not think it was relevant.
The whole point of the first exercise was not lighting it was interacting with a working commercial model which I have never done before. (only friends and family)
So he set up a one light setting to get us started so I could talk to the model and hopefully not be as timid as I normally am.
On picture 6 the 5D MkII is the better picture - the background is white, which is what you need for a cut out, on the Nikon shot it's a kind of magnolia colour.
Apologies for any confusion, there are no Nikon shots posted. Only my 5d2, The "Nikon like" shots are to help you understand what came directly from his camera. BTW he and I also had the same 4100k warm tone settings.
I still can't understand why a supposedly competent photographer would look at the results on another camera and not know that it needed adjustment. To let you carry on when you weren't happy is not a good sign.
Answer as before, the purpose of this session was for me to get to know the model and lighting be very simple, he just wanted to see how I would react to the model and what I would do being thrown in at the deep end. I'm very shy and I think he wanted to see what I would do. The initial shot took me by surprise as I assumed like for like settings on cameras would produce the same results. Judging by his reaction so did he. Give or take a 1 stop and slight colour variation. He suggested the corrected settings after the first shot, the second and third were closer to what it should be and then by the fourth he told me to start shooting and forget about the lights and camera settings and just interact with the model. Which I did.
There are shooters around who are not as knowledgable as they should be. They set up a camera based on settings learned from others, and when it looks right they stick with those. The fact that he was confused about the settings speaks volumes.
So are you suggesting that if I have the exact same settings as someone else's camera in an identical manner that 3-4 stops of dropped light is normal?
Regards
David
I paid for the course.
"The lighting is really bad!"
Very harsh & not flattering.
There is a reason for that which I did not mention at the beginning as I did not think it was relevant.
The whole point of the first exercise was not lighting it was interacting with a working commercial model which I have never done before. (only friends and family)
So he set up a one light setting to get us started so I could talk to the model and hopefully not be as timid as I normally am.
On picture 6 the 5D MkII is the better picture - the background is white, which is what you need for a cut out, on the Nikon shot it's a kind of magnolia colour.
Apologies for any confusion, there are no Nikon shots posted. Only my 5d2, The "Nikon like" shots are to help you understand what came directly from his camera. BTW he and I also had the same 4100k warm tone settings.
I still can't understand why a supposedly competent photographer would look at the results on another camera and not know that it needed adjustment. To let you carry on when you weren't happy is not a good sign.
Answer as before, the purpose of this session was for me to get to know the model and lighting be very simple, he just wanted to see how I would react to the model and what I would do being thrown in at the deep end. I'm very shy and I think he wanted to see what I would do. The initial shot took me by surprise as I assumed like for like settings on cameras would produce the same results. Judging by his reaction so did he. Give or take a 1 stop and slight colour variation. He suggested the corrected settings after the first shot, the second and third were closer to what it should be and then by the fourth he told me to start shooting and forget about the lights and camera settings and just interact with the model. Which I did.
There are shooters around who are not as knowledgable as they should be. They set up a camera based on settings learned from others, and when it looks right they stick with those. The fact that he was confused about the settings speaks volumes.
So are you suggesting that if I have the exact same settings as someone else's camera in an identical manner that 3-4 stops of dropped light is normal?
Regards
David
23
Technical Support / Re: Bad 5D Mkii or is Nikon that much better?
« on: September 18, 2012, 06:55:38 AM »
Did you go reverse? Did he set his camera to the settings that worked on your 5D2? Did he fall apart because of over exposed white blurry images? Idea here, independent of equipment, I don't think you can compare exact settings like that. There are too many things to factor in. If you're not happy with the most sold pro/advanced user camera ever, then maybe it is time to change brand.
Hello there,
Nope didn't try the reverse as we both were confused at why my camera differed so much with identical settings.
All I'm hoping for is to figure out if my camera is and has always been a bit flaky or if the 5d2 needs +2ev or open up 3-4 stops to expose correctly like other peoples Nikons?
regards
david
Hello there,
Nope didn't try the reverse as we both were confused at why my camera differed so much with identical settings.
All I'm hoping for is to figure out if my camera is and has always been a bit flaky or if the 5d2 needs +2ev or open up 3-4 stops to expose correctly like other peoples Nikons?
regards
david
24
Technical Support / Re: Bad 5D Mkii or is Nikon that much better?
« on: September 18, 2012, 05:45:23 AM »
Thank you for the reply.
I just checked the camera settings and they were 0ev. We did not have any filters on the front of his or my lenses.
Have a look at the 5 initial shots I took, hopefully I've made it easy to see what I had to do to get close to what he had.
http://bright.vg/5d2vsnikond3
He was far from being pretentious, he is a very nice funny chap. I would hate to think I gave that impression of him.
We were both using his Bowens light in his studio and both set up with remote triggers, though now I write this could that have been the problem?
He also owns and has used/owned Canon equipment and ended up changing his equipment for Nikon as it was better for him and his style of shooting. He was not selling me his old gear and certainly wasn't telling me to change to Nikon. He was as confused as I about the settings.
This is the Photographer
http://www.dphotographer.co.uk/user/eymc275
This is my work.
http://www.redbubble.com/people/redtree
I don't want to sell my Canon equipment (LOVE the lenses) but I have always felt I have had to compensate somewhere on the camera to get it to do what I wanted to achieve where other photographers seem to do (while I'm standing beside them and there shots are straight from their cameras) with ease on other systems.
I just checked the camera settings and they were 0ev. We did not have any filters on the front of his or my lenses.
Have a look at the 5 initial shots I took, hopefully I've made it easy to see what I had to do to get close to what he had.
http://bright.vg/5d2vsnikond3
He was far from being pretentious, he is a very nice funny chap. I would hate to think I gave that impression of him.
We were both using his Bowens light in his studio and both set up with remote triggers, though now I write this could that have been the problem?
He also owns and has used/owned Canon equipment and ended up changing his equipment for Nikon as it was better for him and his style of shooting. He was not selling me his old gear and certainly wasn't telling me to change to Nikon. He was as confused as I about the settings.
This is the Photographer
http://www.dphotographer.co.uk/user/eymc275
This is my work.
http://www.redbubble.com/people/redtree
I don't want to sell my Canon equipment (LOVE the lenses) but I have always felt I have had to compensate somewhere on the camera to get it to do what I wanted to achieve where other photographers seem to do (while I'm standing beside them and there shots are straight from their cameras) with ease on other systems.
25
Technical Support / Bad 5D Mkii or is Nikon that much better?
« on: September 18, 2012, 01:14:39 AM »
Hello everyone,
My virgin post on here.
I recently had a tutorial with a photographer I admired. I didn't realise that when I got there he was all Nikon D3 and Nikon lenses and I was all Canon 5Dii and L class.
It's probably that I'm a really bad amateur photographer and not understanding stuff, but I'm confused about one technical issue and need your help please.
We were recreating one of his shots and he gave me his camera settings which I dialled in, his shots looked gorgeous, clean, in focus and bright using his Nikon D3, 50mm, 200th at f11, iso 200. When (under his instruction) I took the exact same shot with my 5D Mkii with my 50mm, 200th at f11, iso 200, mine came out 3 stops darker and contrasty. WTF?
I ended up spending the next ten minutes re checking my settings and modes and I couldn't see anything wrong.
At points he pointed out that he didn't even need to look through the viewfinder to get it in focus and still get a good shot, which he did in a Austin Powers style by looking at me and pointing the camera away from himself at the model all while talking to me about shooting styles. Bingo his shot was excellent. Although my shot's came out the same contrast level and harsh while his were silk smooth.
His camera performed flawlessly and mine seemed to be 3 or four f stops and focus steps behind. The dynamic range of his camera was exceptional, all I got was what comes out of a horses bottom, IMO.
Come to think of it I'm always stopping my camera up when I know it's a darker environment but just been doing it automatically for so long I though it was just how the 5d2 was supposed to be. Is that right?
Based on this session alone I'm thinking of switching to the dark side. The thing that stops me is the amount of good L class glass I have invested in Canon plus I'm hoping Canon will announce the 3dx with 16 bits of dynamic range soon. I'm not sure I'll get much for my 5d2 now the 6d has nicely under cut it. Thanks Canon, lovin' your work. Not.
Bad Canon 5d2 or is the Nikon D3 that good?
Anyone else out there who had a D3 that switched to Canon because Canon was better?
Is the 5D2 better compensated 2-3 stops up?
Thank you in advance for any advice you may have.
BTW - I have followed this post for set ups. http://www.kenrockwell.com/canon/5d-mk-ii/users-guide/index.htm
My virgin post on here.
I recently had a tutorial with a photographer I admired. I didn't realise that when I got there he was all Nikon D3 and Nikon lenses and I was all Canon 5Dii and L class.
It's probably that I'm a really bad amateur photographer and not understanding stuff, but I'm confused about one technical issue and need your help please.
We were recreating one of his shots and he gave me his camera settings which I dialled in, his shots looked gorgeous, clean, in focus and bright using his Nikon D3, 50mm, 200th at f11, iso 200. When (under his instruction) I took the exact same shot with my 5D Mkii with my 50mm, 200th at f11, iso 200, mine came out 3 stops darker and contrasty. WTF?
I ended up spending the next ten minutes re checking my settings and modes and I couldn't see anything wrong.
At points he pointed out that he didn't even need to look through the viewfinder to get it in focus and still get a good shot, which he did in a Austin Powers style by looking at me and pointing the camera away from himself at the model all while talking to me about shooting styles. Bingo his shot was excellent. Although my shot's came out the same contrast level and harsh while his were silk smooth.
His camera performed flawlessly and mine seemed to be 3 or four f stops and focus steps behind. The dynamic range of his camera was exceptional, all I got was what comes out of a horses bottom, IMO.
Come to think of it I'm always stopping my camera up when I know it's a darker environment but just been doing it automatically for so long I though it was just how the 5d2 was supposed to be. Is that right?
Based on this session alone I'm thinking of switching to the dark side. The thing that stops me is the amount of good L class glass I have invested in Canon plus I'm hoping Canon will announce the 3dx with 16 bits of dynamic range soon. I'm not sure I'll get much for my 5d2 now the 6d has nicely under cut it. Thanks Canon, lovin' your work. Not.
Bad Canon 5d2 or is the Nikon D3 that good?
Anyone else out there who had a D3 that switched to Canon because Canon was better?
Is the 5D2 better compensated 2-3 stops up?
Thank you in advance for any advice you may have.
BTW - I have followed this post for set ups. http://www.kenrockwell.com/canon/5d-mk-ii/users-guide/index.htm
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