October 21, 2014, 12:09:28 PM

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Messages - Schruminator

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Lenses / Re: Do date codes matter?
« on: October 14, 2014, 09:05:13 AM »
Canon apparently does roll out some changes to existing models over time. Personally, I'd think that some of these changes certainly have to be for the better (reliability, performance) and cheaper components being available can't be the only reason. That being said, the difference between an older lens and a newer lens with updated circuitry is probably not all that measurable.

In the link below LensRentals notes a change they have seen. Just from a construction standpoint, 5 less soldered wires is 5 less solder joints that can break or come loose. Would they have ever been a problem in the original? Eh, probably not I suppose, but now there are 5 less to worry about :)


I have the 14 L (Ver. I) and the coma wide open for astrophotography is pretty horrendous  :( . I assume this is slightly improved in the Ver II, however the examples I've seen from other Samyang lenses is virtually free of coma. However the Samyang 14mm example pics didn't seem all that sharp to me until you stopped it down, which kind of negates the advantage of the large aperture for low-light and night shooting.

If this is reasonably sharp wide open (in comparison to my 14L I) without crazy vignetting, I'll likely be on board to sell the 14 and pick this up. My only reservation at the moment (until sample pictures arrive) is the lack of a rear filter holder. I've got a 10 stop ND I drop in my 14 and it's a whole lot easier than trying to put a filter in front of such a bulbous front element.

Lighting / Re: stopping motion with a light trigger
« on: September 04, 2014, 10:14:40 AM »
I've tried using an arduino hooked to a laser, microphone, timing gates/chronograph (how fast is the projectile moving, then calculate when the flashes should fire), a piezo sensor and I forget what else.

Anyways, the piezo sensor I rigged up (canabalized an old buzzer and stole the piezo element) has by far worked the best and most consistently for me. I can set the sensitivity to pick up a ping-pong ball dropped from a couple of inches onto a table-- with the sensor 6 feet away on the other end of the table. Needless to say, it'll pick up a wine glass getting shattered as well.

A couple of short lines of code (if the sensor goes high, wait a 1/50th of a second, fire flashes, ta-da) is all that's needed-- so while it's not the simplest of set ups, it's not terribly difficult either if you have a habit of tinkering in your garage already.



Software & Accessories / Re: Neutral Density Filters
« on: July 08, 2014, 10:21:50 AM »
I have a couple of Hoya HMC 10 stop screw on filters in various sizes. They do have a slight color cast, but it's easily correctable in post processing. Personally I went towards screw on filters due to the small size and overall convenience as I generally don't have any other filters I tote along on my shoots.

Anyways, long story short, I'm happy with the Hoyas and the image quality/clarity seems to be pretty darn good (minus the color cast). They do flare pretty well if direct sunlight is hitting the filter at an odd angle-- but you've got to watch out for that with most filters regardless.

Lenses / Re: I'm looking at rentig/buying a new lens for weddings
« on: July 07, 2014, 10:38:06 AM »
Many 2.8 lenses are the bread and butter of many wedding photographers (I'm looking at you 70-200 2.8 and 24-70 2.8 ) and will do well in churches and other dimly lit places. Although some receptions have even worse lighting (especially after the sun has set).

However, what camera body are you using? If you can crank up the ISO (and still capture acceptable pictures), then F 2.8 lenses will still probably do the trick for you. Otherwise you may want something with a bit larger aperture such as the 135 2.0, 50 1.4 or 85 1.2. As for what focal length will work for you, what are you planning on shooting? For group shots or in tight quarters you may want the 24 or 35. If you're looking at a person or two, the 50 may fit well, otherwise individual portraits you may want to look at the 85 or 135 (if the venue has enough room for you to scoot back that far).

Finally, don't forget that as the aperture get's bigger (especially anything under 2.0 such as 1.2 or 1.4), your DoF decreases dramatically and it'll be more difficult to get everything in focus. So, it's a bit of a balancing act between capturing enough light and actually keeping all of your subjects in focus, etc etc.

Please note that he is saying that it is an "Original Genuine Lithium Battery"... "Compatible with Canon". He's not claiming it is a legit Canon battery. He's saying that it is genuinely lithium and will work with Canon.

Sneaky, yes, but not exactly false. Anywho, I've purchased a knock off battery or two for my 7D and 5D over the years. My 7D battery stopped taking a charge after about a year, but my 5D battery I've had for about 2 years and it is still going strong. I get an error message from the camera warning me that it is not a legit Canon battery ("Communication is irregular"), but that's about it. It seems to perform just fine and I'll happily buy another knock off when this one bites the dust.

So, use your judgement on this one and decide if it's worth it for you as your mileage may vary.

Yeah, just don't show her that video on how to use a rocket air blower. It's too bad they weren't a bit more specific on some items too, but I suppose that video does cover the bare basics for people just starting out.

This lens looks solid, but after selling my 24-105 I swore I'd never buy f/4 or slower again. On top of that, I'm a huge fan of night time and star shots-- so besides the f/4, I'm curious to see if the coma will be well controlled. My fingers are crossed for a 2.8 non-IS to come out on the coattails of this lens.

(And yes, I know all about Samyang's lenses and I've owned one or two, but I'm just not a fan of the build quality and lack of AF)

I think it is worth posting if for no other reason than they are charging for the repairs. If it was a "Oh, you sent it in for X, but we also tidied up Y for no charge", I could appreciate that.

Charging for design flaws is another issue though.


My math might be wrong but a photo every 15 minutes for a month is 2880. ;-)

Otherwise thank you very much for the links and comments.

Also thanks to the others for the suggestions. Ill look into the gopro, and will be doing some testing before I actually break earth.

Good call! For some reason I left the 15 minutes in there when I punched it into the calculator. You know, off by a factor of 15. Close enough for gov't work ;)

The lighting triggers are usually a photocell of some sort (think about the light fixture over your garage) hooked up to a microcontroller or something to read the light levels. This controller then is hooked up to a transistor or a relay to trigger the camera. There are circuits you can make without the microcontroller, but it takes a bit more work to be honest.

Regardless, back to the original question: I'm not sure if a cored remote shutter release wired to two cameras will work. If so, splice your wire, hook it up and you're set (MF though, AF will delay things as the camera tries to focus). If that doesn't work, I'd look at using a two pole (or "double throw") relay. Basically it's one relay that has two independent outputs. It should trigger the cameras at the same time while keeping them electrically separate from each other (ie no touching of spliced wires). You'll need something to trigger the relay, but that can be as simple as a 9V battery and your thumb if you don't need super precise timing.

I use 1 double throw relay to control 2 flashes to fire at the same time (and they are muuuch faster than a camera shutter) and it works great. The link below is a picture I took with this set up. 2 flashes almost directly to the right and to the left of the wine glass in a darkened room.


You do realize that every 15 minutes for a month is 43,200 photos, right? Multiply that by 3 cameras and you're over 125,000 photos. Even will relattively small file sizes, that's still a lot of space you'll need to store things.

Obviously if you take a picture every 30 minutes (instead of 15) you can halve that. With no construction going on at night you could make a circuit to stop taking pictures after dark (plus the pictures at night will probably turn out poorly)-- I'd look at incorporating an Arduino or a similar microcontroller to control things.

Finally, I pulled up a couple of articles that I glanced at a long time ago. I don't know if they will be of much help, but they might get you pointed in the right direction.


FTb-n that's a pretty slick set up you have there, I may have to steal the idea!

I have the PeakDesign Capture Clip (the model before their current one-- mine doesn't have a female thread to screw the whole assembly onto a tripod or whatever it is that the latest one does).

All in all, I love it. It's great when you have a back pack for mounting your camera on the should strap-- which works well for me since I love hiking. For a heavier lens (5D3 + 70-200 2.8) I do need to tighten up my belt if I'm not using my backpack as it will try to pull my pants down, and with the clip in the vertical position it does dig in a bit. I haven't tried their pad (or FTb-n's idea above), but if the pad works as advertised, I would recommend it for heavier lenses if you're using your belt. If you're using a backpack shoulder strap, heavier lenses still work pretty darn well.

Anywho, long story short (too late?) it works well, I wish it cost less so I could buy another, but overall I'm happy with it. The plate is basically permanently attached to the bottom of my camera and the clip is either on my belt or backpack whenever I am out shooting. I haven't seen a reason to look into any other system since I picked the Capture Clip up. It securely holds the camera out of the way when you don't need it and it's easy to grab the camera when you do.

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Dual CF or Combo memory slots?
« on: January 02, 2014, 05:58:14 PM »
I personally like the set up for previewing and culling images.

I use the SD for low res .jpg's and the CF for the full sized RAW images. This way I can quickly sort through the .jpg's and figure out which pictures are worth going back and editing and which ones can be tossed without having to open up the RAW files (which takes a second or two longer... but multiple that by 300 images and the savings adds up).


CPS Loaners. With Gold, you can try out a body or lens for a little over a week for free. I think any model, one time. Free shipping to you (you pay the shipping back). I think with gold, shipping is free 1 way for everything.

I signed up when I needed a repair and it paid for itself.

Ah, I forgot about the loaners-- that might be fun. It's too bad I'm not closer to one of their centers so I could skip out on the shipping!

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