May 21, 2013, 11:54:04 AM

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Messages - miah

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16
Lens Gallery / Re: Canon EF 70-300 f/4-5.6L IS USM
« on: May 03, 2013, 05:48:37 PM »
I feel the 70-300L/5D3 is best supported by a tripod collar, due to its combined weight. I bought a $42 version from China off eBay. It was delivered very fast (less than a week) and is of decent quality, but the clamp tolerance was a little loose. I fixed it by shimming the gap directly beneath the hinge with a 1-inch long piece of 3/4-inch velcro (loop/fuzzy side). This took up the slack while still allowing the lens to freely rotate for vertical shots and doesn't leave any messy, sticky residue, like tape would when it gets hot outside. It's been working great for months, now, so for $42-delivered, I'd say it's a much better deal than Canon's collar. Here's the link, if anyone wants to check it out:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tripod-Mount-Ring-C-WII-for-Canon-70-300mm-f-4-5-6L-/350487384475?ssPageName=ADME:L:OU:US:3160

17
Canon General / Re: new canon lens caps
« on: May 03, 2013, 09:15:13 AM »
I picked up a generic pinch-cap for my 100L, post 5D3 firmware 1.2.1 update. But now when I turn the camera on a warning flashes on the LCD: "Camera cannot communicate with lens cap, must remove at once." Which is a great unsung new feature of this firmware, since I was forever forgetting to remove my Canon-brand lens cap before shooting...  :P

18
Lenses / Re: 24-105L or Sigma 35.1.4 for 6D walk-around
« on: April 28, 2013, 10:54:33 AM »
I own the very flexible 24-105, but am considering the addition of a faster 35mm prime for nighttime walk-around. Though the Sigma f/1.4 gets rave reviews, I'm leaning towards the Canon f/2 for the IS and since "the Canon weighs 1/2 as much, is smaller and focuses closer," as stated here:

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/News/News-Post.aspx?News=4092

That way, I can carry both lenses without adding too much weight/bulk to my [evening] kit.

19
Software & Accessories / Re: Remote RC-1 and 7D
« on: April 23, 2013, 12:43:30 AM »
Have you checked the strength of the RC-1's battery? It may be enough to penetrate the Elan, but not the 7D. Just a thought. Otherwise, I doubt there's an obscure setting that you're missing--Canon's protocol for the RC-1 is the same on the Rebel series, XXD series and 5D, so why would the 7D be different?

20
Software & Accessories / Re: Remote RC-1 and 7D
« on: April 23, 2013, 12:02:13 AM »
Yeah, sorry cdn_photog, it's called Drive Mode, and you want it set to Self-timer:10 sec/Remote Control. Also, remember that the RC-1 must be less than about 15 feet away from the camera and within line-of-sight of the hand grip (even the lens can block the signal). That oval black spot on the front of the grip is the receiver. Finally, I'm assuming the 7D has this receiver--I don't know because I don't have one. I do know the 20D, 30D, 40D, 50D do not, then Canon added it to the 60D. The 5D and most of the Rebels have it, too.

21
Software & Accessories / Re: Remote RC-1 and 7D
« on: April 22, 2013, 11:44:38 PM »
You must set the shutter release mode to Self-timer/Remote Control. That tells your 7D to look for and accept the RC-1's signal to trigger the shutter. I don't have a 7D, but that's how it works on my T3i and 5D3.

22
The tiny Canon RC-1, though discontinued, is a great wireless remote that works well with the Rebels, 60D and 5D3. I have also had great luck with Satechi wired timers/intervelometers; they're compact, lightweight and durable. The Satechi units are body-specific, however, so make sure you order one that's designed to work with the 5D series. Finally, I use a Hama (only available in Germany) wireless remote when the RC-1's transmission distance falls short; the Hama is good for 1/4 mile.

23
Software & Accessories / Re: Induro C314 vs CT314
« on: April 22, 2013, 08:47:16 AM »
I have the Induro CT214 and Induro BHL2 ballhead. They work extremely well with the 5D3 and all of the lenses listed in my profile below. There is absolutely NO slippage in the ballhead whatsoever. Here's a good review:

http://www.deepgreenphotography.com/2012/05/gear-review-induro-ct313-tripod-bhl-2-ballhead/

If I was using a super-tele and gimbal mount, I'd probably want to step up to the CT314, but for anything less, save yourself the weight/bulk and get the CT214. I purchased mine at B&H, along with the Induro ELC-2 short column for ground work. These tripods are extremely well made, set up fast, and are an excellent value.

24
PowerShot / Re: SX50 outperforming 5DIII +100-400mm
« on: April 19, 2013, 02:58:12 PM »
AlanF, I went to Best Buy today to check this beast out, per your recommendation. Yes, it's much smaller/lighter than my 5D3 and even appreciably smaller than my T3i--but it's much larger than my S90 (my main travel/back-up camera). Since I'm looking to upgrade my 10MP S90 to the newer 12MP S110, I'm wondering how the S110's larger 1/1.7" sensor compares to the smaller 1/2.3" sensor found in the 12MP SX50. Do you have any feel for how one would perform relative to the other in low-light/high-noise environments? I love the idea of having a 50X zoom, but hate the thought of losing pocketability. These trade offs are inevitable, I know, but a definitively better sensor on one vs the other might make the decision easier. Thanks.

25
Pricewatch Deals / Re: Canon Refurb 400mm f/5.6L $910
« on: April 11, 2013, 01:04:39 PM »

"Everyone says it is a great lens"?? Well, it has a few devotees who do rave about it. And they will take up arms against any criticism, but, they clearly have never used a real tack sharp prime. See http://www.birdsasart-blog.com/2011/03/14/which-is-the-best-under-1500-canon-intermediate-telephoto-lens-for-me/ where Art Morris says "At this point in my life, I would not consider a lens without IS so my old toy lens (= 400mm f/5.6L) is on the shelf (though it is likely that I could still use it effectively. :) Unless you wish to use a tripod all the time (except when doing flight photography), your choice is between the 100-400 IS and the 300 f/4 IS. It is a tough choice. Good luck making it :)"


Thanks for the link, AlanF, I hadn't seen that blog post. I have, however, looked over his site a number of times and there are a boatload of EXCELLENT shots taken with the 400 f/5.6.

I decided to pull the trigger and went ahead and ordered the 400 from the refurb page (thanks to Mt Spokane for posting the heads up). If for any reason it doesn't perform to my satisfaction, I'll probably wait for the mythical new 100-400 with the latest IS to be released, then consider selling both my beloved 70-300L and the 400 f/5.6.

26
Pricewatch Deals / Re: Canon Refurb 400mm f/5.6L $910
« on: April 11, 2013, 12:46:28 PM »

The 400/5.6 is an excellent lens, no question.  For BIF, you'll be shooting at shutter speeds high enough that IS isn't needed.

For me, it's a question of compromise, exactly as you say - flexibility, IS, and convenience.  With a 70-300L, a 400mm prime makes sense - assuming you'll have time to switch lenses.  Not sure, but I expect Greg Downing may have a body for each of those primes.

The 100-400 does fine for focusing on BIF, IMO.  Not a great shot, but as an example here's one I took yesterday.  The camera was hanging from my BR strap when I saw this red tail take off for a short flight from one tree to another, so this is a snap-shot - grab camera, raise to eye, focus and shoot.  It grabbed onto the bird desipte the trees in the background.

I believe Greg uses two bodies, as do I. He feels strongly that the 400/600 combo is the most versatile set-up for BIF (he replaced his 300 f/2.8 with the 400 f/5.6 to reduce weight). Interestingly, when I asked him if I could only afford one lens for BIF, he was adamant: get the 300 f/2.8 + a 2x extender.

I too have friends who think the 100-400 is a great, versatile, fast-enough-focusing lens. But since I already own a 70-300L, which I love, the 400 prime seems to be a better fit.

A little off topic, but since I know you're using a 1DX, what AI Servo focus parameters are you set to for walking around, so that when a hawk jumps up in front of you, you're ready?

27
Pricewatch Deals / Re: Canon Refurb 400mm f/5.6L $910
« on: April 11, 2013, 12:02:14 PM »

Understood - that was clear.  I can tell you that personally, I don't have any real interest in the 400/5.6.  It does offer slightly better IQ than the 100-400mm, but the real-world difference is minor, it lacks IS (which is helpful for perched birds in shade), and the form factor isn't convenient. 

What I'd really like is a new version of the 100-400!

But Neuro, I'm in the market for a 400 and this seems like a great price on what everyone says is a great lens. I agree, the 100-400 is more compact to carry & more versatile, being a zoom. I also understand you have a 600 f/4 at your disposal. But for a guy like me who can only occasionally rent a 600, already has a 70-300L, and would like something in the 400 range, this seems like a good buy. Finally, I was recently speaking with Greg Downing from naturscapes.net at the NANPA Summit where he gave two talks on BIF shooting. He carries the 600 f/4 and the 400 f/5.6, insisting in his talks that primes are the only way to go for BIF because they focus so much faster than zooms.

Can you add your thoughts, please? I'm a newbie to BIF shooting, but having a whole lot of fun getting into it.

28
I have no problem importing .CR2 RAW files from my 5D3 into LR 4.3 or 4.4. I use a card reader.

It's a long shot, but the issue may be with your use of RAW + JPG. Perhaps there's a bug in the card's directory, allowing LR to see the JPG's, but not the RAW files. Since I've never used RAW + JPG I can't say, but that's a variable I would try to eliminate by shooting some RAW-only files and trying to import those. If it turns out it IS the RAW + JPG directory, you definitely need to advise Adobe.

29
Quote
Shooting with a long lens is just as disrespectful as getting up close. If you believe the people you are photographing don't want to be photographed in their grief then don't do it from any distance. That type of photography gives us just as much as a bad name.

Perhaps. But in the case I cited, which was just one of many examples I could have cited to underscore my point that longer focal lengths can be useful in street shooting, I didn't know that they didn't want to be photographed. I just thought it was disrespectful to even interrupt them to ask, which I typically do before shooting anyone. We're all going to be in a funeral one day, no one escapes that one; it's part of life. And the image I snapped from afar was quite respectful in that it showed little detail of the individuals involved, and more of the procession, the custom, the way in which this particular culture says goodbye to a loved one.

As others have pointed out, it's not productive to try and define "street shooting" for anyone else. But I think we can probably agree that street shooting occurs "on the street," that is, in public spaces where we all give up a bit of our privacy by virtue of simply being there.

30
My main point about lenses for me  is an aesthetic one since I am generally 'not' trying to engage with my subjects so. I talk quite a lot about this in my posts on the psychology behind my own street photography.
http://www.markcareyphotography.com/2013/street-photography-technique-and-psychology-guide-post-3-image-2/

The aesthetic is what requires me to shoot close an wide because it is the perspective afforded by moderately wide lenses like the 35mm which is so appealing. The perspective is very close to what the human eye would see and so you feel like you are standing there, and, of course you are! Longer lenses crunch up perspective in a totally different way and depth of field becomes minuscule.  Its just a different look. Its a look that for me suits portraiture very well but I personally would find it less engaging for wider scenes because it would look unnatural due to that perspective.

Clearly in this instance you were shooting a funeral so your use of a long lens was totally understandable in my opinion.

Point taken, Mark. I had previously read your blog and found it quite interesting; thanks.

One issue I have, since I travel by dirt bike, is weight and bulk. I've found I have to leave a lot of gear at home and carry maybe two lenses: a 24-105 & 70-300. These cover a range for everything from landscapes to wildlife. I hate to leave my 100 macro behind, but tough choices must be made. Regarding 35 vs 50 vs 24-105 zoom, do you feel it would be worth the stretch to add a 35 or 50 to the mix, in addition to the 24-105, and if so, which focal length would be your hands-down favorite?

I'm returning to your neck of the woods for 3 months (Nov - Jan in Thailand, Laos, Cambodia & Viet Nam) and want to spend more time off my bike and on the street with camera in-hand. If you advise that a fast, short prime is a must, I might be able to find a nook or cranny to squeeze it in.

Intresting thread here. I don't know if it was this site who featured Markus Hartel. He does a lot of SP either using a 5D series body and an 28 prime lens attached to it. He also did a project on The Americans 2010. Revisiting Robert Frank's track. In this project he did a lot by using a Leica range finder, the same way Frank worked back in the 50s.

Thanks for the link, pedro. Good stuff!

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