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Messages - sagittariansrock

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An anecdote, completely open to interpretation:
I was shooting the Statue of Liberty when a couple of girls came and asked me to take their photo in front of the statue. They handed me a D800E attached to a 24-70mm lens.
I found that the camera was in A mode, and the focus point selected was offset and to a corner. I am completely unfamiliar with the camera, so I asked them how would I change the focus point and which button do I focus with (meaning shutter press or back button). They weren't native English speakers and misunderstood my question- saying it was on 'Autofocus'. I decided not to pursue the issue further, half pressed, fine tuned with the manual focus override and took the shot.
However, it was way too overexposed. So I asked them if they can turn the exp. comp. down, and one of the girls (presumably the one owning the camera) said it was ok, she will fix it afterwards.
Now, this is not a photo I would have walked away with confidently if I was using my 5DII, and definitely not with my 5Dc. So either the girl knows she can pull down the highlights by that much on the D800E, or she doesn't have a clue. I am leaning towards the former...

The difference in prices for the BH-40 have to do with the type or size of clamp. The B2-40 and B2 AS II are similar with the B2 AS II having a spirit level and is 60mm vs 50mm.

The PC-LR is a pano clamp.

If your planning on doing any landscape pano's, this would be a good choice. The rotation markings can be seen clearly in the picture on RRS. Instead of rotating at the ball head, you rotate at the clamp. For instance, if your on a rocky shore and you level your camera by positioning the ball head, it will no longer be perpendicular to the horizon. As you rotate the BH for the pano, the perspective will change and you will need to re-level the camera for each shot. With a rotating clamp, it will be perpendicular horizon once the camera is leveled with the ball head.

The photo on the right is a good example of this, the legs are not level but the BH is used to make the camera/clamp level. Then you can rotate the clamp/camera without affecting the perspective as much. There is another issue with pano's having to do with rotation and parallax, but that discussion is for another time and many more dollars.

If it was my cash, I would get the PC-LR because I like pano's.

IMO, panning above the ball limits the horizon being dead center.
However, if you use a leveling base and panning head, then you can pan with the camera pointed up or down with the ball, and your panning axis will still be vertical.
Of course, if you use a full panning kit with horizontal and vertical rails, and a vertical panning clamp, then there is no limitation whatsoever.

Software & Accessories / Re: Step Up Ring 77-82 for 70-200 f2.8L II ?
« on: June 30, 2014, 06:44:29 AM »
I went the same route.
77 and 82 separate CP-Ls. I like using my hoods.

I'll call your 77 & 82, and raise you a 67. I have quite a few step up/down rings that I don't use much anymore.

Lol! I need one for my 72mm lenses now.

Software & Accessories / Re: Step Up Ring 77-82 for 70-200 f2.8L II ?
« on: June 29, 2014, 08:27:17 PM »
I went the same route.
77 and 82 separate CP-Ls. I like using my hoods.

So it would have been a 1D IV replacement, wouldn't it?

While we are on the topic of stating our dreams as facts, Canon will bring out an actual model called EOS 3D which will take 3-dimensional photos and videos that can be projected in space like in the Star Wars. It will give an impression of 'being there'.

I meet at the fountain in front of my workplace. People can park for a few minutes, benches all around, CCTV coverage. And I don't need to go anywhere...

Third Party Manufacturers / Re: D810!!!
« on: June 27, 2014, 02:50:31 PM »
Rienz, I don't think D800/E was defective in any way...

Another question- so the D810 supposedly has electronic shutter. I know a lot of people were saying implementing this would have removed shutter shake in A7r. What relevance does it have for a dSLR? I suppose it is only useful for mirror lock situations- even then, people generally do fine using 800mm lenses with regular shutter. So what advantage will this electronic shutter produce? Is it relevant for normal people?

Third Party Manufacturers / Re: D810!!!
« on: June 27, 2014, 01:35:19 AM »
Can someone (I am thinking of you, jrista) explain why no low-pass filter is better than a non anti-aliasing one (except to Nikon, who can probably save some money).

No OLPF is better in that there are fewer layers of material over the photodiodes (the OLPF is two layers of lithium niobate plus a 1/4-wave plate, not sure of the material, maybe quartz?).  Same idea as using a top quality UV/clear filter vs. no filter – probably not much of an IQ hit, but maybe some under certain circumstances.  With the D800/E, the 'inactive' OLPF was in there so everything else could be the same (image sensor mounting, piezo drive for the self-cleaning sensor, etc).  Standardizing on one model means they can eliminate the OLPF entirely.

There's still the IR cut filter over the sensor to protect from dust and to vibrate for the self-clean.

Thanks, Neuro.
I was also under the erroneous impression that it is the OLPF that does the dance.

Third Party Manufacturers / Re: D810!!!
« on: June 26, 2014, 09:43:01 PM »
Can someone (I am thinking of you, jrista) explain why no low-pass filter is better than a non anti-aliasing one (except to Nikon, who can probably save some money).

+2 for FredMiranda.
It will take time to get started and it always helps if you need to buy a few things first. But in the long run, if you have provided excellent business transactions, you will reap the benefits from no fees and reliable photographers dealing with you.

Third Party Manufacturers / Re: D810!!!
« on: June 26, 2014, 06:18:48 PM »
So, why is not having a low-pass filter (810) better than having one that doesn't anti-alias (800E)? I thought the low-pass filter is useful for protecting the sensor from dust...  ???

If your camera is in good enough condition to be sold as "mint" or "near mint" condition then you obviously haven't used it very much.

There is a difference between 'use' and 'abuse'. I sold my 2-year old iPhone 4S back to Apple and got their maximum possible buyback price (for 'mint'- which anyone who sold back to Apple will know, is pretty rare). And I used my phone every day, all the time.

Snobbish generalizations aside, these incremental improvements will send a bunch of Nikonians scurrying to pick up the last of the 800s at their current price before they are discontinued. Maybe that was the ulterior motive- to boost D800 sales!

Better lenses...yeah, as long as you don't shoot UWA...cus besides the 17mm TSE Canon is pretty weak in that regard.  I'm still using my old 5D2 but I would be a pretty happy camper if Canon came out with something like the D810.

Nikon has one excellent fast UWA zoom, yes. But the other three are quite mediocre. And with the new 16-35 IS, Canon has closed that gap quite a bit (if early samples can be believed).
It is funny how people read posts on the forums and make these generalized comments! Other than a fast UWA, Nikon isn't significantly better in ANY aspect compared to Canon lenses. Head-to-head they are either close or Canon is much better. And that fast UWA isn't the paragon of lenses. Short range, difficult to use a filter, expensive, and prone to flare. How many Nikonians use the 14-24, I ask?

Photography Technique / Re: Shallow DOF vs lighting
« on: June 26, 2014, 02:36:50 PM »
Thanks for all your responses!

Having both is certainly ideal, but I find myself forcing to choose one or the other. Shooting on a 7D, when using a long lens for shallow DOF, I need to stand further away from the subject and the lightstand. In windy conditions, the lightstand gets blown over all the time  :-\ Sure I could use a sandbag, but it's a lot of extra weight to carry. My wife already dislikes the idea of me carrying lots of gear when we go out.

So I like to put my foot on the lightstand, which needs to be relatively close to the subject. In that case, I'll need to use a wider angle lens -> reducing blur.

I guess the ultimate solution is to go full frame!

You can compromise on shallowness of DoF and still get excellent pictures.
I can't see how one can compromise on lighting and get even good pictures.
Camera bag is an excellent solution, but you can be resourceful otherwise and find something else to support your light stand.
Or get a faster wide angle lens. I am guessing you don't shoot portraits wider than 35mm anyway and both the 35L and the 50L provide plenty shallow DoF with close subject distances. Even the 35/2 and 50/1.4 (@1.8) will work quite well.

Look similar to Op/Tech Reporter/Backpack System Connectors.
One side has a male quick connect, and the other a female. Not sure how short you can adjust the webbing though.

This is exactly what I need- I wonder if I will get it shipped before this trip, though.
Going to check local camera stores now that I know what to look for...

Edit: Might be able to get it via Amazon Prime. Thanks again, a lot!

In a pinch, consider going to Home Depot

Cheap, work great, multiple colors help make your bag stand out, very strong.

I use them.  Plus, they come in lots of sizes.


That's a great suggestion- unfortunately I should have explained- I need it to act as a strap to secure my backpack to the strolley handle. It should not be elastic but more like a webbing.

Similar to the F stopper gatekeepers.
Doesn't need to be that fancy.
My Lowepro backpack has lugs for them and I need something here badly. Unfortunately Lowepro doesn't sell them separately- only one came with the bag.

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