January 28, 2015, 09:16:51 AM

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Messages - sagittariansrock

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31
I simply find them terrible.  They are too distracting and detract from the image too much.  It simply looks like someone cut eyes out from a magazine and stuck them on some pictures.

afraid i agree with this.

as a side - are these popular now? i've seen these being peddled by the "housewife turned pro" (especially with kids shots) and the eyes are just too fake. in color, it is alien; as if in post a brush was used to lift eye color saturation to the extreme.

bottom line: kitsch.

that being said, these things are purely subjective. some people must love the look if they sell.

If you shoot soft bland images then heavy-handed post processing is your only salvation.
I remember being pretty weak with watercolors- so I'd just draw the eyes and mouth with a ball-point pen in my art class when I was a kid.
(which is not the case in OP's images- I am looking forward to the unprocessed version)

32
YS, I think there's a lot of depth in the composition and mood of these images, and the PP might be distracting from these. I might be wrong, of course. Can you post a less processed (and even unprocessed?) versions of the same?

33
hey - try to save up for the einstein unit. they are nice, and they're modifiers are relatively cheap. i'm building up a rig around an e640. still need a couple of speed lights for accents.

this was taken the other day with one e640 and the 5-in-1 reflector kit:

MonkeyB, I must have missed the picture the last time. Cute kiddo... What did you do to catch that smile or is this a natural model in the making :)

34
Fwiw I use my Godox ad360 with a ProFoto 3' Octa RFi that I am VERY happy with. Excellent light quality and built to last. I use it with the ProFoto Speedlite Speedring.

I use my light mainly out and about with the kids.

The Profoto box looks great, but I am afraid it's a bit out of my budget :(

35
    Dear all
    I need some guidance on deciding on light modifiers, and will greatly appreciate your help. Here is the situation:

    1. I don't have a dedicated studio, and hope to work partly in my apartment, partly in subjects' houses and locations, and plan to shoot portraits and real estate/architecture. This will be strictly a weekends and holidays thing, and mostly for friends and family. So space and budget is limited, but so is the scope.

    2. Regarding lighting gear, I have 3 600EX-RTs, two large Rogue flash benders (one with the diffusion panel) and sets of gels for each flash, a Wafer softbox (30" x 40") and two Manfrotto 1052BAC lights stands that I recently purchased.

    3. I plan to buy the TTL version of the Godox 360 when it comes out (300 Ws, bare bulb)

    4. I am considering buying a couple of modifiers- one large and one small.

    A. For the first, I am considering a PLM- I am thinking soft silver as it is somewhat less specular than the extreme while still producing efficient output. I hope that it will give me controlled but bright light, let me utilize the full power of the Godox and produce round catchlights when I need them.

    >Question is, am I choosing the right surface?
    >If so, should I go for the 51" or the 64"- that is, how many people can the first light- how many the second?
    >Will my Godox 360 be sufficient to light a 64" umbrella? 
    >Finally, I am thinking of getting the Elinchrom ring mount for the PLM and the Elinchrom mount Speedlite bracket to fit my Godox and Speedlites. I shall also get an Elinchrom mount for my Wafer. Is it silly to go for this mount even though I don't have an Eli light? The alternative is to go Bowens on the wafer and Speedlite bracket and use the PLM by the shaft (PCB doesn't make Bowens ring mounts).
    >>
http://www.paulcbuff.com/plm.php

b. For the latter, I am thinking of a small flash-mounted softbox. What shape and size should I look for?

>There are some square Lastolite clones as well as some small and cheap octaboxes (links below)- which will be better?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/24-Portable-60cm-Softbox-Soft-Box-for-Flash-Light-Speedlite-Photo-Speedlight-/390954391191?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5b06b29697

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Octagon-Speedlite-Softbox-Umbrella-Soft-Box-Flash-Light-Diffuser-for-Nikon-Canon-/311245372470?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4877ab7c36[/li][/list]

Are there other, better alternatives?


Thanks in advance!

36
Canon General / Re: New Gear Resolutions for 2015
« on: January 10, 2015, 11:12:56 AM »
1. I will not buy a camera body.
2. I will not buy a lens (35mm 135mm and 85mm/1.4 purchases probably coming up in 2016).
3. I will buy the TTL version of the Godox 360 when it comes out.
4. I shall buy a couple of light modifiers- probably a Speedlite softbox and a 51" or 64" PLM.
Well, let's see how that goes...

37
EOS-M / Re: Why do I keep my Eos M?
« on: January 09, 2015, 03:32:21 PM »
I love my Eos M, and here's how I use it:
1. Dinners, parties and get togethers- a conveniently sized camera that doesn't yell "photographer", is easy to use for someone asked to take the shots (especially as most people on the road seem to prefer an LCD to a viewfinder for composition), cheap enough to give to someone to take the shots, and far better low light capability and IQ than a smartphone or point and shoot.
2. Back up standard FL camera- I will often take a telephoto lens on my FF camera and mostly plan to shoot long- for example, a 135L in the zoo. In the occasional situation when I need something wider, the M+22 supplements admirably.
3. Always a camera with me- It is compact and inexpensive enough for me to always keep it in my car- this allows me to have a camera around if some unexpected photo opportunity comes up; for example, I ran into a dragon boat race in a place I had gone to attend a management course.
4. Camera for my wife- she has a good eye for composition, but not the patience to focus and recompose or change focal points. When using the M, she can easily tap to focus and shoot away. Also, for someone who thinks 6D weighs a ton, the M is at least an acceptable burden to bear.
That's why I keep my M around. I don't have an adapter, and only the one prime lens. Works great!

38
Lighting / Re: Speedlites - How many are enough?
« on: January 09, 2015, 02:20:30 AM »
Hello Speedlite Junkie´s  ;D

Now my amateur Setup ist complete with 3 600EX-RTs.

2 Worked fine most of the Time, 3. is better for some additional Light´s .

Will mark my Group like Ramon .

Greetings

Bernd

Are you sure you don't need an ST-E3-RT to command these three, or maybe a higher power bare bulb flash in those instances where you need to overpower the sun (not trying to mean- this is the exact state I am in... :(  )

39
EOS Bodies / Re: NEW CAMERA - EOS 80D?
« on: January 08, 2015, 04:07:31 PM »
The dial looks like a P&S or Eos M. But the body looks too bulky to be a mirrorless.
Maybe a newer version of the superzoom Powershots?

40
I think the discussion about less than 24MM was for a circular polarizing filter, not a neutral density filter (unless you're talking about the comments regarding maltese cross artifacts that can occur on wide angle lenses with variable ND filters...

A variable ND filter is a pair of stacked polarizers (one circular, one linear), and the 'Maltese cross' has the same cause as the uneven polarization of skies with UWA lenses, except you don't need a sky to see it.
Thanks for the info...didn't know that. So the potential issues may be shared between CPL and VND, but not with a standard (non-variable) ND, yes?
Correct.  Standard NDs have no such issues.  The only potential issues are vignetting and flare (like any filter) and difficulty focusing (leave them off until you've focused).  Oh and forgetting to take them off - my favorite issue.  I was looking through my viewfinder for a cityscape shot the other night and it looked really dark.  Plus, my shutter speed was a flashing 30s!  A quick look at the BLACK filter on the front of my lens made me realize my mistake!  I do this with polarizers, too, not to mention trying to shoot wildlife at f/16 sometimes, and the list goes on...

I make this mistake quite often with my personal polarizers/ND filters- aka my sunglasses. I'd walk into a shop and wonder why they don't they have all the lights on...

41
Live view users: wear a broad brimmed hat - helps immensely in reducing glare - and prevents sun-exposure skin cancers.

Dunno why, as soon as I wear a hat I have this itch to shoot in portrait mode and the hat brim interfere :(

42
On a limited budget. I have the big stopper,  foundation system, and a 3 stop nd soft grad filter (also a screw on 3 stop nd and circ polarizer)...but was wondering if I need to get a 3 stop nd hard grad?? Can the soft grad do flat horizons ok. I have watched the majority of Lee nd grad videos as well as their online Inspiration magazine and still am undecided about my next step. I have money for 1 more filter.

I have a hard 3 stop and a soft 2 stop. The ideal condition is the opposite, but what I have works for me.
In your case, I'd suggest going for a 2 stop hard grad. That will be perfect. And you can always mix and match.

43
Quote
I bought a cpl and use it for his purpose, one filter less to carry around.

In case the OP doesn't know, CPL's start producing strange color gradation when used on ultrawides like the 10-22mm. Not sure what the "minimum safe lens length" is. 24mm?

It is caused when the field of view of the lens covers a large area of sky, wide enough so that the effect of polarization varies significantly (maximum perpendicular to the sun, minimum parallel to the sun's rays). So, as long as your composition doesn't cover too much of the sky, you should be fine.

44
Lee makes a full range of solid ND filters:
http://www.leefilters.com/index.php/camera/bigstopper

I know of those two. 6 stops are too much for video (sometimes). Looking for a 2 and a 3 stop solid filter in addition to the "Stoppers".

Scroll down the page- they make all kinds of ND filters from 1 stop to 3 stops in half stop variants (though the half stop ones are hard to find). They make 2 and 3 stop glass ones, which are more expensive.
For example:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?ntt=resin&refineSearchString=&atclk=ND+Combinations_Standard+NDs&ci=114&N=4026728350+4291378429+4294951825+4242329417

45
I am also looking into Lee Filters. I want to use them both for photography and with a mattebox when shooting video, so the 4x4 size makes sense for me.

I don't see any "normal" solid NDs on Lee's site. Will the hard grads cover the whole image when positioned properly? By looking at the images they don't seem big enough for this.

If not, that seems like an oversight in such a mature system...

The hard grads are not supposed to cover the whole image evenly in any position unless maybe you have a 46mm filter thread.
Lee makes a full range of solid ND filters:
http://www.leefilters.com/index.php/camera/bigstopper

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